So my 4th gen max is not starting. I only have spark at three different cylinders. I took the same coil pack and tested it through each connection and only have spark on three different cylinders. I checked voltage signal and ground on all connections and the readings were correct. I tried a new set of coil packs just to see and that didn’t work same results. I do have a good battery, good voltage, and a new starter. I checked the crank reference sensor and got a resistance reading of 530. Also check the signal wire back to the ECM. I checked the crank positive sensor and I have the correct voltage signal and ground. When cranking I do see RPM. I checked the cam sensor and got a resistant reading of 2,247. All spark plugs are new. I also checked the MAF sensor and I do have the correct voltage ground and signal. My grounds are good the one from the battery to the engine and the grounds on the front of the intake manifold are also good and have a good connection. I did grab a second ECM from the junkyard and tried that but still no spark. I’m kind of stuck not sure what else to do. Bad timing wouldn’t cause a no spark correct?

 

What year Maxima? If a 99, is your security light on and solid? You may be immobilized.

What's the voltage of the battery prior to trying to start the car?

 

It’s a 99 and I’m not 100% sure about the security light. It may be off when cranking but I will have to double check that. The battery voltage is at 12.6v

 

Did you ever get anywhere with this? Having pretty much the same issue myself. My 99 Max will crank all day, but wont start. The car was running fine but the CEL was on. Ran that code and it came back with a P1320 for a bad coil. I pulled the front 3 coils and tested then put the coils back on the sparkplugs and reconnected the wiring harness connectors. Car hasnt started since. It's now showing a P0335 code for the crankshaft sensor. I replaced both crankshaft sensors with no luck. I replaced the battery and the starter as well. Still no luck. Also tried an additional ground wire from the battery to the transmission with no success. Tested both crankshaft sensor harness' with a voltmeter. Continuity and signal wires both tested fine. However the positive wire is only showing roughly 10 volts at both of the crankshaft sensors. Any idea if not having a full 12 volts at the sensor could cause a no start? Also I pulled all the coils again and tested them too. 5 of 6 coils ohmed out at 11 ohms while the 6th only ohmed out at 7 ohms. Any idea if that could cause a no start? Also pulled the camshaft sensor and cleaned/inspected it. Didnt replace it though. Voltage tested at 12 volts to the camshaft sensor as well. NATS doesnt appear to be the issue either as the security light is not solid. One thing I have noticed though is that the RPMs dont move when trying to start. Starting to think at this point maybe my ECU crapped out.

 

A couple years ago, out of nowhere, I had to get my 99 towed to the dealer. Something happened with the chip in the key (supposedly, I think it was NATS related, but the solid red was intermittent) and it wouldn't start and they had to go into the system and reprogram something. MEVER got a straight answer from them of the cause. They made a new master key for me and copied it from the old, programmed it and it wouldn't work in the ignition. So they were pissed at me for them not using the VID and cutting a key from the computer. Idiot Service Manager. I haven't gone back there ever since. I will drive much farther to a real dealer with a real service dept!

If you have a second key, give that a try. You never know with these sometimes.

 

I did try my second key with no luck. However my second key is in worse shape that my first as the plastic top of it is coming off. Havnt used that key in ages so its possible its no good. Cant you get one cut and programmed at a hardware store?

 

So turns out I'm a damn idiot.....and apparently an even worse mechanic. Got my no start issue solved today. It was a damn 10 amp fuse under the hood for the ECM. I think what happened is when I initially went to check the engine coils I did not disconnect the battery first. I think it may have still had charge thus shorting the circuit. The fuse did what it was designed to do and took the hit saving the ECU. Anywho been chasing my damn tail for almost 2 weeks over a 10 cent fuse. Lesson learned! Always start with the basics. Also the below video helped me out in breaking down my analysis. Hope it helps someone else.