Warm up engine on cold mornings?
Warm up engine on cold mornings?
Is this really necessary? My dad told me that my engine will go bad if I don't, but he also told me that racing will make it blow up and you guys tell me that that is crap, so I don't know. Does it really hurt an engine like ours to drive it cold?
20-30 seconds is plenty of time for the oil to get circulated around the engine. Then you need to start driving to get everything up to proper operating temperature. It takes the engine far longer to get up to operating temperature when idling, so you really aren't "warming" the car up that way. Driving is the best way to warm the car up.
This is the last time I'm going to say this. There are more things than the engine that need to be warmed up before "spirited" driving. Nameley the transmission. So here we go. Start car. Wait 10 seconds(oil is circulating everywhere within 5, thats why the slight pinging goes away). Start driving keeping rpms below 3k or a little less if you like your car. Wait until temp guage gets to normal operating range. Then you can drive like a maniac. If you just warm up your engine and then start driving hard your tranny ain't gonna last.
Originally posted by PCGuRu2K
I usually warm up my car for like 1 min on cold days.. Then I drive around the 2K RPM range until my engine temp needle hits the middle. Then I start my spirited driving
I usually warm up my car for like 1 min on cold days.. Then I drive around the 2K RPM range until my engine temp needle hits the middle. Then I start my spirited driving
To the person who started this thread, yes you do need to warm the engine up before driving hard, you're Dad is right. You don't have to warm it completely before you start driving it, just baby it until everything is up to temp. If you don't you drastically reduce it's life and could be in for some big repairs later on. Once the car is warm, as long as it is not outright abused, there is nothing wrong with "hard driving" as long as you keep up with the maintenance and take care of the car.
20-30 seconds in plenty... but wait until you are above the "C" before you start taking it about 4000rpms... old people will tell you to wait 5 mins because when they were young engines did not circulate oil as fast or use oil that is as good as today's stuff..
Originally posted by theblue
20-30 seconds in plenty... but wait until you are above the "C" before you start taking it about 4000rpms... old people will tell you to wait 5 mins because when they were young engines did not circulate oil as fast or use oil that is as good as today's stuff..
20-30 seconds in plenty... but wait until you are above the "C" before you start taking it about 4000rpms... old people will tell you to wait 5 mins because when they were young engines did not circulate oil as fast or use oil that is as good as today's stuff..
i usually start my car and go back in the house and finish getting my stuff together. the i drive off and keep the rpm below 2500 for about 5 min of driving, then i gun it.. if i do not start the car earlier i wait about 1 min to go, and i keep the rpm below 2000 for 5 min of driving.
Generally speaking... I have always followed what my dad told me years ago.
With a carb... wait 1-2 minutes and then take it easy for 10.
With EFI... wait 15-20 seconds and then take it easy for 10.
Simply because carbs don’t like cold… and you can damage your engine if your mixture is way off and your hot-rodding around.
For the lead foots on the board, I define “taking it easy” as; no launching, and gradual increases in speed.
I disagree with keeping your engine below any certain speed or rpm if you are sticking to city speed limits. Taking a vehicle to higher RPMs gradually seems more important to me then not taking them there at all… as long as those RPMs are within the normal operating range of the engine.
There is my $00.01
With a carb... wait 1-2 minutes and then take it easy for 10.
With EFI... wait 15-20 seconds and then take it easy for 10.
Simply because carbs don’t like cold… and you can damage your engine if your mixture is way off and your hot-rodding around.
For the lead foots on the board, I define “taking it easy” as; no launching, and gradual increases in speed.
I disagree with keeping your engine below any certain speed or rpm if you are sticking to city speed limits. Taking a vehicle to higher RPMs gradually seems more important to me then not taking them there at all… as long as those RPMs are within the normal operating range of the engine.
There is my $00.01
Originally posted by Entropy
I disagree with keeping your engine below any certain speed or rpm if you are sticking to city speed limits. Taking a vehicle to higher RPMs gradually seems more important to me then not taking them there at all… as long as those RPMs are within the normal operating range of the engine.
There is my $00.01
I disagree with keeping your engine below any certain speed or rpm if you are sticking to city speed limits. Taking a vehicle to higher RPMs gradually seems more important to me then not taking them there at all… as long as those RPMs are within the normal operating range of the engine.
There is my $00.01
This quote from DaveB very accurately says exactly how I understood this to work and why I warm up my car the way I do. Of course, I wasn't quite as specific in my understanding but...
It seems that nearly every "non-car" person and even soon people in this forum think that the best way to warm up a car in the winter is to let it idle for 5-20 minutes. If these people only knew the damage they are doing to their motors. None seem to believe me when I tell them what happens by doing this poorly choosen warm up procedure. By letting a cold motor idle for a length of time, the oil does not circulate throughout the whole motor. Instead, it mostly "pools" around the lower half of the motor therefore increasing wear along cams and such. On a cold engine start up and under normal running temps, the ECU is running a very rich fuel program to make the engine warm up as fast possible. What does this mean for the motor? It means A LOT of fuel isn't getting burned and is seeping into the oil and degrading it quickly. Also, the rich exhaust will eventually foul the cat.
i let my car warm up till the meter hits the C....but sometimes I wish i had remote start...this way, i can start my car, let it warm up and not have to be in it...cause thieves around here quick to steal a car....I would use remote start and keep the doors locked
Or you can do what I do.. I got a remote started installed over the weekend. Cost about $179... Works great, before I leave my house I just start it.. By the time I put on my shoes, jacket, get my keys & wallet, and walk outside of the house the car is already ready and warm
Re: Warm up engine on cold mornings?
I usually let my car warm up for a couple of seconds and then drive it "leisurely."
From my VERY limited understanding of cars, I always thought it was bad to let your engine idle for an extended period of time (a couple of minutes even), especially when it's cold. So following that logic, should one just start driving as soon as he/she starts the car?...assuming they drive it moderately until properly warmed up.
From my VERY limited understanding of cars, I always thought it was bad to let your engine idle for an extended period of time (a couple of minutes even), especially when it's cold. So following that logic, should one just start driving as soon as he/she starts the car?...assuming they drive it moderately until properly warmed up.
This will never end!
After reading this thread (and numerous other threads, one of which I think I started myself), I have decided to post my thoughts on this too.
First, alot of other .org members have brought up very good points. Secondly, there is no concrete answer to this question, it's really people's opinions battling out on the field. I think the one to follow is the one that makes sense.
For example, your cat can get fouled by fuel (thanks Dave B) BUT chances are, a rich fuel mix will not drench the cat. Oil is more viscous with lower temperatures, but not significantly so that oil will not flow (UNLESS we're talking about very low temperatures, where we should be using block heaters).
When you first start your car, it will take a few seconds for the oil pump to do its thing. For some reason, alot of people don't think about it when they start their car on a cool summer night, and start spinning wheels and flooring it as they drive out of the parking lot. Summer, winter, it does not matter. A freshly-started motor will need proper lubrication to help reduce wear. It just takes a bit longer the colder it gets
If people really cared for their cars (some do, I know!), they'd be cautious year round, but even more so during winter. If I had to choose, I'd go with the majority of the board: start the car and take it easy for the first few minutes. Some say, use the gauges, I take it a step further and wait until my automagic is warm enough to kick into '4th' gear (it will not go into 4th until it is warm enough). Even after that, I still take it easy until I'm satisfied the ENTIRE car is warm enough (exhaust, O2 sensors, hoses, radiator, engine block, pistons, rings).
Just do what makes sense to you, there's no concrete answer to the proper method to warm up your car, but there are some facts:
1) A motor with insufficient lubrication will suffer the most wear.
2) The motor will run rich until O2 sensors are properly warmed up, and all sensors are operating in normal temperature.
3) The tranny has its OWN oil, and does not warm up at the same rate as the engine.
4) The temp on the (not so accurate) gauge reads the antifreeze, NOT the oil.
5) The engine is made of different metals that expand at a different rate, not to mention the rubber hoses, etc. Don't forget the exhaust too!
Just drive with common sense. Winter is very harsh on a car, I know because my beater Escort idles like crap during winter UNTIL it is warm enough, but runs like a champ during summer. I'm not trying to compare an Escort to a Maxima, but some things are common.
If I ****ed anyone off, sorry. I just get the impression that not everyone has taken the time to read through this thread. This thread will never end, because there is no concrete answer to end it. Just use common sense. (If I ****ed anyone, sorry)
My 0.02
First, alot of other .org members have brought up very good points. Secondly, there is no concrete answer to this question, it's really people's opinions battling out on the field. I think the one to follow is the one that makes sense.
For example, your cat can get fouled by fuel (thanks Dave B) BUT chances are, a rich fuel mix will not drench the cat. Oil is more viscous with lower temperatures, but not significantly so that oil will not flow (UNLESS we're talking about very low temperatures, where we should be using block heaters).
When you first start your car, it will take a few seconds for the oil pump to do its thing. For some reason, alot of people don't think about it when they start their car on a cool summer night, and start spinning wheels and flooring it as they drive out of the parking lot. Summer, winter, it does not matter. A freshly-started motor will need proper lubrication to help reduce wear. It just takes a bit longer the colder it gets
If people really cared for their cars (some do, I know!), they'd be cautious year round, but even more so during winter. If I had to choose, I'd go with the majority of the board: start the car and take it easy for the first few minutes. Some say, use the gauges, I take it a step further and wait until my automagic is warm enough to kick into '4th' gear (it will not go into 4th until it is warm enough). Even after that, I still take it easy until I'm satisfied the ENTIRE car is warm enough (exhaust, O2 sensors, hoses, radiator, engine block, pistons, rings).
Just do what makes sense to you, there's no concrete answer to the proper method to warm up your car, but there are some facts:
1) A motor with insufficient lubrication will suffer the most wear.
2) The motor will run rich until O2 sensors are properly warmed up, and all sensors are operating in normal temperature.
3) The tranny has its OWN oil, and does not warm up at the same rate as the engine.
4) The temp on the (not so accurate) gauge reads the antifreeze, NOT the oil.
5) The engine is made of different metals that expand at a different rate, not to mention the rubber hoses, etc. Don't forget the exhaust too!
Just drive with common sense. Winter is very harsh on a car, I know because my beater Escort idles like crap during winter UNTIL it is warm enough, but runs like a champ during summer. I'm not trying to compare an Escort to a Maxima, but some things are common.
If I ****ed anyone off, sorry. I just get the impression that not everyone has taken the time to read through this thread. This thread will never end, because there is no concrete answer to end it. Just use common sense. (If I ****ed anyone, sorry)
My 0.02
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hez8813
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
11
Mar 12, 2020 12:06 AM
97_GXE
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
5
Sep 15, 2015 06:47 AM
markevans999
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
7
Sep 10, 2015 04:29 PM





