struts/shocks and springs install
#1
struts/shocks and springs install
Hey everyone. I have KYB AGX's sitting in my basement. And I have H & R springs on the way. I've heard the toughest part of the install is getting the springs installed on the struts/shocks themselves and that after that, it's simple to install on the car. Is this true? And if so, how tough is the spring install on the new struts/shocks? I know I'll need a spring compressor. But is it easy to install the springs incorrectly? Will it be obvious if it's done wrong? I'm doing this myself and don't want to do this wrong because I know suspension work is one area you DON'T want to screw up doing. Thanks everyone.
#2
Tha'ts not the hardest part....
Putting the spring and the shock together is not hard at all. You just compress the springs a bit, put the shock inside the spring, put the bushing on top of the spring (the bushing has a center hole, which the shock is inserted through) and just tightened the bolt. AFter that, take off the spring compressors..
The hardest part for me was getting the stock spring/shock assembly out of the wheel well after everything was unbolted. That thing would get all tangled up with the other stuff in there and it was so tough gettng it out.
Use this thread as reference.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=97410
The hardest part for me was getting the stock spring/shock assembly out of the wheel well after everything was unbolted. That thing would get all tangled up with the other stuff in there and it was so tough gettng it out.
Use this thread as reference.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=97410
#3
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
You don't need to compress the H&R's to get them on your struts/shocks. There short enough that just pressing down on the top of them will enable you to catch the top nut. Makes for a fast install.
Also, you really don't need to compress the OEM rear springs to get them off. There isn't much preload at all. Just take the nut off the shock and the assembly will just pop slightly. It only moves about and inch. I've taken out and replaced the OEM rear springs without spring compressors. There really isn't much preload on them. My body weight was enough to compress them enough to thread the top nut back on.
Also, you really don't need to compress the OEM rear springs to get them off. There isn't much preload at all. Just take the nut off the shock and the assembly will just pop slightly. It only moves about and inch. I've taken out and replaced the OEM rear springs without spring compressors. There really isn't much preload on them. My body weight was enough to compress them enough to thread the top nut back on.
#4
Another Question
I'm concerned with replacing worn parts on the install of new springs. I noticed when I installed my RSB that the dust boots on my struts were destroyed and the rest of the spring/strut combo looked pretty worn/old.
What parts typically need to be replaced when putting new springs on? Anyone have a parts listing and/or some advice? Seems like replacing the whole setup would be worth it and would also ease the install.
I'm thinking of going the road of H&Rs at the same time I put the new 17" Enkeis on in the spring.
Meezer 95SE 5sp
What parts typically need to be replaced when putting new springs on? Anyone have a parts listing and/or some advice? Seems like replacing the whole setup would be worth it and would also ease the install.
I'm thinking of going the road of H&Rs at the same time I put the new 17" Enkeis on in the spring.
Meezer 95SE 5sp
#5
I'm not sure exactly what some of the parts are in the stickies, but I'm replacing the dust boots, front strut bearings, and the rear cover washers and isolation bushings. I was going to buy new Polyurethane sleeves from Nissan but theres 3 on each spring and they are ~$9 each. So I decided to reuse my old sleeves I also bought the KYB front mounts to see if they help. I'm not sure if this is exactly accurate to our car but njmax can probably cite any differences.
-hype
-hype
#6
Re: Another Question
Originally posted by meezer
I'm concerned with replacing worn parts on the install of new springs. I noticed when I installed my RSB that the dust boots on my struts were destroyed and the rest of the spring/strut combo looked pretty worn/old.
What parts typically need to be replaced when putting new springs on? Anyone have a parts listing and/or some advice? Seems like replacing the whole setup would be worth it and would also ease the install.
I'm thinking of going the road of H&Rs at the same time I put the new 17" Enkeis on in the spring.
Meezer 95SE 5sp
I'm concerned with replacing worn parts on the install of new springs. I noticed when I installed my RSB that the dust boots on my struts were destroyed and the rest of the spring/strut combo looked pretty worn/old.
What parts typically need to be replaced when putting new springs on? Anyone have a parts listing and/or some advice? Seems like replacing the whole setup would be worth it and would also ease the install.
I'm thinking of going the road of H&Rs at the same time I put the new 17" Enkeis on in the spring.
Meezer 95SE 5sp
(2)54034-31u01-front spring seat ("*SEAT-RU" on invoice)-----$11.19ea.
(6)54034-85e10-front urethane isolator ("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)$7.99ea.
(2)54050-31u02-front dust boot ("BUMPER A" on invoice)-------$14.25ea.
(2)54329-39u00-front spacer ("SPACER-F" on invoice)-----------$8.82ea.
(2)55034-31u00-rear spring seat ("*SEAT RU on invoice)-------$9.96ea.
(2)55031-33p10-rear urethane isolator("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)-$6.63ea.
(2)55240-0m315-rear dust boot ("*BUMPER" on invoice)--------$27.95ea.
(2)55338-0m000-rear spacer (*SEAL-SH" on invoice)-----------$16.66ea.
The numbers in parenthesis on the left is the quantity of each part you should order. As you can see the rear boots will hurt you. I still cant figure out why the parts for the rear cost more...
I got these numbers with the help the dealer (dealer prices) so I felt obligated to order the parts from them but you can save yourself some money by ordering them online. Keep in mind that when I ordered the AGX's from TireRack.com I also got the front strut mounts ($35.00ea.) which included the strut bearings and the rear shock mounts ($4.00ea.) at the same time.
In all I spent like $300.00 on all this stuff but in was worth it for the better than new ride. With the AGX's there is way less road noise than ever before and I bought the car with only 50,000 miles on it.
I am sure this will help because getting all these COMPLETE numbers can be a PITA.
Good Luck
#7
Re: Re: Another Question
Originally posted by exhip95
(2)54034-31u01-front spring seat ("*SEAT-RU" on invoice)-----$11.19ea.
(6)54034-85e10-front urethane isolator ("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)$7.99ea.
(2)54050-31u02-front dust boot ("BUMPER A" on invoice)-------$14.25ea.
(2)54329-39u00-front spacer ("SPACER-F" on invoice)-----------$8.82ea.
(2)55034-31u00-rear spring seat ("*SEAT RU on invoice)-------$9.96ea.
(2)55031-33p10-rear urethane isolator("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)-$6.63ea.
(2)55240-0m315-rear dust boot ("*BUMPER" on invoice)--------$27.95ea.
(2)55338-0m000-rear spacer (*SEAL-SH" on invoice)-----------$16.66ea.
The numbers in parenthesis on the left is the quantity of each part you should order. As you can see the rear boots will hurt you. I still cant figure out why the parts for the rear cost more...
Good Luck
(2)54034-31u01-front spring seat ("*SEAT-RU" on invoice)-----$11.19ea.
(6)54034-85e10-front urethane isolator ("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)$7.99ea.
(2)54050-31u02-front dust boot ("BUMPER A" on invoice)-------$14.25ea.
(2)54329-39u00-front spacer ("SPACER-F" on invoice)-----------$8.82ea.
(2)55034-31u00-rear spring seat ("*SEAT RU on invoice)-------$9.96ea.
(2)55031-33p10-rear urethane isolator("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)-$6.63ea.
(2)55240-0m315-rear dust boot ("*BUMPER" on invoice)--------$27.95ea.
(2)55338-0m000-rear spacer (*SEAL-SH" on invoice)-----------$16.66ea.
The numbers in parenthesis on the left is the quantity of each part you should order. As you can see the rear boots will hurt you. I still cant figure out why the parts for the rear cost more...
Good Luck
-hype
#8
Re: Re: Re: Another Question
Originally posted by xHypex
Just to wonder what year is your car? The suspension stickie gives part numbers for 95-96 and when I called my dealer I didn't know what names to use because they don't know "polyurethane sleeves" or "rear isolator bushing". I bought front mounts, dust boots, strut bearings, and I was ordering the rear cover washer and isolator bushing. For someone who has done their suspension already: can you reuse the old polyurethane sleeves? I really didnt want to buy 6 for the front and 4 for the rear, and my car is only a '99.
-hype
Just to wonder what year is your car? The suspension stickie gives part numbers for 95-96 and when I called my dealer I didn't know what names to use because they don't know "polyurethane sleeves" or "rear isolator bushing". I bought front mounts, dust boots, strut bearings, and I was ordering the rear cover washer and isolator bushing. For someone who has done their suspension already: can you reuse the old polyurethane sleeves? I really didnt want to buy 6 for the front and 4 for the rear, and my car is only a '99.
-hype
As for reusing the old sleeves, that depends on their condition. Mine were worn though where the spring actually rests on the lower spring perch and I knew this before doing any work on it. The lowest part of them were like squeezed out from under the spring and were almost touching the tire. If I were you I would order them just to have them on hand when you do the job and if yours are reuseable ( you will know) then just return them. They are very important in reducing spring noise especially if you are lowered.
I hope this answers yur question...
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