Mikesburn

Hey guys!
I've got 1995 Max and I'm trying to find out about the good deals on the brakes. I'm looking for the Vented Rotors and corresponding to them brake pads. Wich have the best ratio: Brakes:Bucks
Is Brambo good enough or any other brands would be fine?
I need this feeling when you push your brake pedal not more then 10% and it suddenly stops your car, like they have ones on Lexuses or BMW's.
Thanks!

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

The best deal on a complete brake system for your car is here.

www.eatricezone.com

For $540 you get all new performance brakes. Everything is included in this upgrade kit. Rotors, pads, even new SS brake lines and fluid.

Mikesburn

Thanx for your reply, it's really good price, but still lot's of money
Do you think it's OK to put just the front rotors and brakes for now or it'll look ugly??? Is that you have right now in your Max? How does it run, or stop???

One more question: Do they have golden rotors or grey ones, coz grey ones are better look with the rims?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I have all OEM brakes on my car still. It stops excellent. Haven't changed a thing yet. Nissan brakes are pretty good. The only issue I have is with the warping. I've had them cut twice in 40K miles. Original pads still.

If your looking to "firm up" the pedal try this first:

Your car is 7 years old so your rubber brake lines and fluid are getting old. This could lead to a softer pedal. Change them over to SS lines and do a complete brake fluid flush.

If your rotors still have meat on them and are still smooth, (no vibrations) leave them be. If you just need pads, get the Nissan pads. There excellent pads for every day use. The Maxima does come with excellent brakes. Aside from the warping of rotors, which could happen to any aftermarket rotor as well, our cars stop very nicely as equipped from the factory. Routine maintenance will keep them working like new. Save yourself some cash and do a brake tune up instead of replaceing them. Check out www.motorvate.ca for step by step instructions on how to really "tune up" your calipers as well.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Ramius83

Well, to be honest, the brakes are not proportional to the actual weight of the car. If you look at this address and read about the Wilwood Brakes, it will go into detail about the rotor size comparison between a Maxima and a Civic I think it is. Read it. http://users.ev1.net/~shinglin/cars/brakes/wilwood.htm

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

props out to the photographer @ overboost

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Thanks to Got Rice aka phuong for the Overboost exposure. Are you shooting for them?

95maximase

nice, but is that a flat tire????

metallic97gxe

iTrader: (3)

I just upgraded my brakes...this past Sunday....

my front rotors needed "turning" anyway so I just swapped out the front and rear rotors..

-BREMBO Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors Front=$125.00 Each Pair/
Rear=$110.00 Each Pair Bought New From Ebay.com.

-AXXIS Metal Master Semi-Metallic Brake Pads, Superior Australian Performance(Front Only)=$45.00-Bought New From EatRiceZone.com.

while me and my mechanic were putting them on I re sprayed my calipers high gloss black I changed from blue

and with my Konig Verdicts an open spoke design rim and my black calipers sitting on top of the rotors man does it look good...and they stop better if you have big open design spoke rims go with both it willl look more uniform to have the front and back matching...

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

It was pumped up to 36psi

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Fwiw,

I just ordered & received from Phuong @ www.eatricezone.com:

-a set of Goodrich SS braided brake lines & brake fluid. Fair price, efficient delivery, professional businessman. Highly recommend dealing with him.

Thanks Phuong!

Mikesburn

Did you install them (The lines and the fluid) Coulf you answer me how you like them, conserning the STOP ability of the car! Very important to me!!!

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

I'm not doing any freelance work for them at the moment. I don't go to the import events as often as I use to since it conflicts with my autocross schedule.

I miss the bikini contests and the models

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Will report back in about a week - should have them installed by then. SS lines are pretty much a no-brainer upgrade though. They work.

I had them on my last car, an 89 Integra. I autocrossed that car, and it was a definite improvement.

1) They provide greatly improved pedal feel.
2) On ABS equipped vehicles, they both reduce the tendency for the feeling of "pedal pulse" caused by the ABS pump and also allow the ABS system to work more effectively/accurately, since the ABS "brain" doesn't have to meter it's pumps while taking into account "stretching" that normally occurs with the OEM rubber brake lines.
3) They are a neccessary modification for autocrossers/racers & an excellent safety upgrade for the daily driver.

SS braided brake lines are proven in both theory and practice. It's not even a "what-if" topic. Just the same, I'll be happy to report back with my findings after I install them. . .

95emeraldgxe

i like those volks =P

Mikesburn

Wow, great information!!!
Thanx!
I'll probably buy those SS lines soon! Would you think brembo or stillen would do the job? Well, hope to hear from you when you get those lines installed.
Do I really need these new vented rotors or is it just for good look, what if I resurface old ones and get the brake pads? BTW which pads would you suggest for the hardest stop( metalic? semi? ceramic?)

Hope to hear back!!!
Thanx
Mike!!!
:cool

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

For street:
Brembo blanks (rotors) & any quality semi-metallic pad will do. The Axxis semi-metallic seem to be pretty popular - that's what I'll probably be getting, come replacement time. If you still have more than minimum safe thickness left on your rotors, there's no reason you can't turn them and keep them - however, I would only do this if you haven't had any problems with warping as of yet. (If the rotors you are currently running have warped once, they're more likely to warp again in the future. . . Slotted or cross-drilled aren't really neccessary for the street, more of a frivolity for looks, there.

For Track:
Rotors - depends who you talk to (it's sorta like religion, that way.) Some people prefer slotted, some cross-drilled, some both. . . Both treatments necessarily compromise the structural integrity of a rotor & can cause shortened life-expectancy, greater likelihood of cracking, warping, etc., than the same "blank" equivalent rotor. (This is unavoidable, regardless of the manufacturer, given current technology).
Pads: again, it goes usually to personal preference. Just gotta do your homework on this one.

Mine is by no means the "last word" on this - (do some research)

Best,
-K-

Mikesburn

Thanx K!!!

I'll wait untill I get rotors, but I understood that you wouldn't choose drilled rotors. See now I'm lost. What should I do if the mechanic says to resurface them??? The old ones would not do me any good, as you said, but drilled last shorter? Should I get new "blank" Nissan rotors from a dealer???

Hope to hear back!!!

What d u think about SS lines? Is it worth buying them?

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mikesburn

1) I'll wait until I get rotors, but I understood that you wouldn't choose drilled rotors. See now I'm lost. What should I do if the mechanic says to resurface them???

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mikesburn
2) The old ones would not do me any good, as you said, but drilled last shorter? Should I get new "blank" Nissan rotors from a dealer???

1) If he says this, that means they haven't exceeded minimum safe thickness, in which case, (as I said) unless you've experienced warping of these rotors, (save your $) - keep them & get them resurfaced.

2) Avoid the OEM Nissan blanks like the plague. They are prone to warping. There have been TSB's on problems w/ the Nissan rotors. If you only drive on the street (no auto-x or track days) just get the Brembo blanks. Very high quality & reasonably priced.

3) My position remains the same on this.


The short answer on cross-drilled or slotted rotors: they offer better stopping properties, some of which is related to better cooling efficiency,* at the expense of a potentially shorter lifespan (as is similar with many race-engineered parts)

*This really only matters on the track.

If you're having the work done by a mechanic, that puts you at a little bit of a disadvantage vs. turning your own wrenches, because the mechanic will be on the clock with your car on the lift when he makes the determination that your rotors are either good or bad. In this position, you ideally should have new rotors of your choice waiting in the wings, otherwise, if they do need to be replaced, your choices will be limited to what that shop has or can get a hold of.

I do my own brake work, so in the same situation, I'd remove my rotors, bring them to my local Pep Boy's & have them turned for $10 a piece. If they tell me they've exceeded minimum safe thickness, I'll slap 'em back on the car, place an order for new rotors & do it at a later date. (I have a little more flexibility this way).

Anyway, get in touch w/ Phuong - he'll hook you up. He's very focused on getting you what you need for your specific application, as opposed to trying to sell you everything under the sun, like many people in the accessories 'biz.

Cheers,
-K-

Mikesburn

Thanks a lot for the info, I really apreciate!!!
I'll order lines and then probably resurface my rotors!!!

BTW, which brake pads would be the best for hard, quick stopping???
Axxis, Nissan dealer ones, Brambo or anything else???

Thank you!!!

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Two important links for ya:

http://forums.maxima.org/search.php

and. . .

http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending

(I found these results w/ a search for "brake pads")

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

I talked to Mike on the phone this morning - you basically repeated everything I mentioned to him I guess he wants reassurance on the issue.

MaxVQ

Here are my thougts on the link above. RE: Maxima vs Civic

The size of the brakes on the Maxima are fine.
It has a total swept area of 390 square inches, or 241 square inches per ton (with a 170 lb driver)

That is very good for a regular production vehicle.

Moving to a larger rotor will only slow you down in acceleration, due to the larger mass to "spin up". This is also true of any heavy rim.

IMO: The best *all around* thing to do is to upgrade the pads, and keep the factory rotors.

I love the KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar pads (www.kvrperformance.com)
They are $54 (CDN!) for the front (almost 1/2 the cost of Nissan pads) and emit a little more black dust, but they are:

(1) Fade FREE! I did 6 stops from 180 KPH BACK TO BACK. Zero Fade!
(2) I can engage the ABS at 180 KPH with my 17" Goodyear Eagle F1 on.
(3) Very easy on rotors, as they run much cooler due to the greater co-efficient of friction. Thus my rotors have 30,000 KM with ZERO warping.

Keep in mind, the best brakes in the world are useless with out good/great/awesome rubber hitting the road.

Anyways, you may want to check them out, I think they ROCK!

Mikesburn

Thanx Phong for helping me out! I'm going to order SS lines from you in the nearset future. Still I kind of deciding either to change rotors or to recurface OEM Nissans, which I think suck, coz I just did this job 8 months ago and my car shakes again when it being stopped!!

Well if any other suggestion, let me know!!!
Really apreciate it!!!

Mikesburn

Hi, thanx for an answer.
So you think I should leave my rotors (Resurfaced) and get the KVR. How do you feel the car? It doesn't shake, is it? And when you apply the brake pedal, does it go far down or it brakes the car right away by itself, as long as you touch the pedal??
Just interested, coz I'm full of my braking system. If not you guys I would still be buying s**t.

Thanx, hope to hear back!!!

MaxVQ

I love my KVRs! The difference in braking is amazing! With the co-efficient of friction being a little higher on the KVRs, the pedal effort to stop is reduced by a noticable difference.

My rotors are made by Eurorotor (purchased at Canadian Tire, $65 CDN each!) so they are cheaper than the Nissans ($95 CDN)

I measured my rotor's thickness brand new, and after 35,888 Km. The rotors only wore 0.011" of an inch. If my wear rate is linear, these rotors will last 256,893 KM!

These were the rotors that I did the back to back 0-180KPH-0 brake tests, and they did not warp!

I told my buddy Dean about my KVRs, and he pick some up for his Intrepid ES, and now he can lock up the front tires under hard braking. BEFORE HE COULD NOT! He won't use anything else.



Go to the web site, and see how much they are in the US. I think that you would be very happy with them.

PS - I do not work for KVR, nor do I have anything to gain my them selling millions. I am only expressing my opinion about these awesome pads. Honest!

Mikesburn

Yea, thanx for your info.

I've just visited the site, but it doesn't have any prices nor contact numbers, but I'll try looking more inside!

Thanx again!

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

You're describing textbook symptoms for a warped rotor. You could resurface them this time around & be fine for a little bit, but I wouldn't if I were you. You'll likely be right back where you are now with that same familiar "shake" before too long. (Once rotors warp once, they'll eventually return to that state, even after resurfacing).

The prudent thing to do would be to replace your rotors at the same time you replace the pads this time, given this new information you've provided. If your budget is tight, hold off on the SS brake lines for now. The rotors are more important under the circumstances.

Mikesburn

Thanx again

Well kinda thought about what you've suggested! It's the best idea by now, still gonna buy SS lines
Then the question is rising - which brand rotors which will be cheap and at the same time powerful for immediate stop?? What do you have on yours, by the way???

Hope to hear back again

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Got the Nissan OEM's which are slightly warped as of now. (I'm not a big fan of Nissan OEM rotors). I have Stillen Metal-Matrix pads which have about half-life left, so I'm going to pull my front rotors, have them resurfaced for $20 and run them out.

By the time the pads wear out, I'll be ready for new rotors, so I don't care if they warp again. I plan on either the Brembo blanks or Brembo slotted (I auto-x/race) and either the Axxis pads or another performance pad. (research to be done later)

I wouldn't get the Stillen Metal-Matrix pads again. They dust A LOT & the dust is a puk-ey reddish color (Really makes a mess of the wheels in a hurry).

LATE DATE EDIT: Axxis Metal Master = Stillen Metal Matrix (rebadged) -I ended up getting the Porterfield Carbon Kevlars.

Mikesburn

Thanx,
can you please tell me the fair prices for
a)front vented rotors
b) 4 brake pads
c) SS lines and also installation of the SS lines
d) labor for the resurfacing and putting the pads for each wheel

This would help me a lot at least to know what I'm looking into(according money).

Hope to hear from you!!!
Thanx again!!!

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Mike - way late in responding here, but hope this helps:

Got the SS Goodrich brake lines installed & results are as I expected: greatly improved brake pedal feel.

In answering your above questions:

a) Brembo vented "blanks" under $100/pr. @ www.eatricezone.com
b) Depends on brand - I'm pretty sure I'm getting the KVR Carbon's for my front: $62+ s&h. I guess the set would run you about $110 or so.
c) SS lines are around $120, again, @ www.eatricezone.com (good price) Labor rates vary regionally: call a few shops. Cost me about $120 to get line installed on my Integra. I did the Maxima's myself.
d) Labor for what you described in my area is about $165.

Savage42

Well, it seems nobody else is going to answer you on this one. I've personally run both pads on & of the track and here is what I've found out. The Axxis Metal Masters are a good upgrade from stock, but only on a normally driven street car. They are very "metallic" (tons of metal in those bad boys!), which increases grip but also eats rotors. They also tend to fade under hard use. Heat from the pads and all that metal tends to increase the chance of boiling the brake fluid.

My experience has proven that the Poterfields are one of the best pads on the market, if not the best. If you think the Axxis pads are good, then you'll love Poterfields and they are much better than Performance Friction pads, which are carbon-metallics. They take some heat before they work. The Porterfields are carbon-kevlar and work very well right off the bat, which is good for street driving and autocrossing. The kevlar gives excellent grip and is much more friendly on the rotors. They also have a ceramic layer between the pad material and the backing plate, which dissipates heat and keeps it from transfering into the caliper, keeping fluid temps much lower. I can't recommend Poterfields enough. They also work so well that they decrease pedal effort and are very hard to fade. Hope that helps!

BTW, I'd recommend some cross-drilled or at least gas slotted rotors to really make your brakes hold up under hard driving conditions. With good rotors and these pads, there is no need to spend the big money on the monster brakes, unless you race the car!

Mikesburn

Thanx for answering back.
Well I've got the KVR performanse pads. They are carbon fibre (kevlar) covered pads. Are they good?

Savage42

I've never heard of them before. They may be pretty good, most likely much better than OEM, but I can only give my opinion on how good the Poterfields are. They are at www.porterfield-brakes.com

Wills98MaxSE

How about if the car is 4 yrs old & over 72K in mileage, would the brake lines & fluid be on thier way of aging well & have to be changed? Starting to hear the squeal when I accelerate.

Savage42

I'd say that just bleeding the brakes with new fluid is all you should need to do. The lines should be fine for many more years.

Mikesburn

Yes, I've installed new Brendix pads, the skweak a little, so what - I have to spray the pads with the liquid?

Savage42

Yep, get some stop squeek stuff from a parts store and put it on the back of the pads. That should do it. BTW, that's what I also like about the Porterfields is that they don't sqeek.