WAC

97 Maxima SE auto.

The car has a brand new starter and battery. The altinator checks out ok as well.

Heres the problem:

When starting you have to turn the key really hard in order for it to start. This started about two months ago.Not only do you have to turn the key really hard ,now it wont start. You have to keep trying , then finally after about three trys it will start. It just seams that something inside the steering colomn is just not catching or something. But once it catches it starts in a instance. Its just turning the key really hard over and over until it does catch.Maybe a ignition switch problem ?? I have no idea.
Has anyone else had this problem ?

Thanks for the help !

HondaKiller718

You would have to check the connections inside you steering wheel column. I'm sure it's just something that's loose or dirty. The next step after that would be to check your spark plugs for any signs of damage or wear. Also do a search this issue has been discussed before.

blueghost75

its most definatly your ignition switch. I don't know how to get to it, but if you are willing to, get to it and see if there is something jammed in it. If you can't fix it, you may have to buy a new one or something.

I wouldn't bother checking your spark pluggs - It would at least turn over if it were the spark plugs.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

Seems to me that I am having the same problem too....but mine only happens occasionally (2 already, and it scared my girlfriend bad).

So, where is this ignition switch? Is it inside the steering coulumn?

95CustomMaxima

iTrader: (5)

I had that same problem...it is your ignition switch...I had mine fixed at nissan for 75 dollars installed.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

..but where is this ignition switch? is it the one that we put the key into, or is it something in the engine bay?

I am also wondering, did the dealer ever state about starter solenoid?

Let me know and thanks again...!

GluteusMax

ardika- the switch is part of the key cylinder inside the steering column.
there are several steps that lead up to the starter solenoid, so let's go thru methodically-
auto or stick?
US spec or Canada?
factory alarm or not [comfort&conv pkg]?

i won't stay up much later tonite, but besides continuing this thread, send me a PM so I can easily get back here tomorrow.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

GluetusMax,

Thanks for your replying...first of all, and now the answers are:

Auto
US Spec, 97 GXE
Factory Alarm
About Comfort and conv. packg, how do I know about this? Are there specifics features included in here?

VQdriver

this thing happens to my mom's 95SE. it also happens when it's super hot outside. it almost always starts up at night when it's cool. the thing is, once it turns over it still has a hard time starting. sometimes i have to press the gas to make sure the engine doesn't die. it seems to sputter and idle irradically for a few seconds after hardstarts.

korupter

ditto on my 95 GXE. I thought at first it was something in the fuel system, but i cleaned everything. I also checked my throttle body.. that's clean too. But, mine only happens when my engine is cold and it's hot outside. My brother guessed it would be the gas evaporating on the spark plugs. Any help, so i don't get ****ed at my max on hot days anymore

tyrotrader

My mother's '95 GLE (US/factory alarm/conv pkg) has the exact same problem. The starter is new - back and forth to dealer they finally said "they just had trouble with the starters in your car". I just found out about it this week, and was going to post the same. Anyone else pretty sure its the ignition switch? Need replacing?

VQdriver

my mom's SE seems like it might involve more than one thing other than the ignition switch though. once it turns over it has a hard time starting and then the irradic idle.

GluteusMax

Ardika [and tyrotrader]
factory alarm means you have a theft warning relay in the starting circuit in addition to everything else. in my [somewhat limited] experience of 7 years with a 4th gen and another 7 years with a 1st gen altima, i don't think a bad relay is likely, but we'll check it too.
i'm assuming you can do some basic electrical troubleshooting with a volt/ohmmeter....
my source for all of this is my 95 fatory service manual. i'm not a nissan master tech, but i'm above average for a home mechanic- you decide if i can help...
1. go to fuseblock and check fuse 17 [10A]. it should be battery voltage on both sides of the fuse when the igniton is 'on' or 'start'. if good,
2. find the theft warning relay , sholud be in the relay box near the p/s reservoir. many relays inside, the one you want may be second from firewall closest to fender, black case relay- see if you feel it 'click' as a buddy turnes key off, then on again. if good,
3. now find the inhibitor relay in the relay box near the battery and radiator, this one should be gray color. with the key on [but engine off], have your buddy hold the brake and move the shifter from park to reverse and back again. you should feel the relay click as it goes in and out of park. this is the one that doesn't let you start or restart the engine unless you're in park or neutral. if good,
4. pluck this relay while the key is off. then take your volt meter, and read terminal #6 [wire color black on white] to ground. with the key off, it should be 0, then with the key to accessory or on, it should still read 0. but, when you twist the key to start, you should get battery voltage. this is the check of your ignition switch. by contrast, to know that you are reading the right terminal, terminal #1 will read battery voltage when the key is either on or start.
5. last check: find the starter, it's on the driver's side at the engine to trans interface, alittle over halfway back to the firewall. the intake air ducting will somewhat obscure it, but you should be able to at least see it without taking everything off. find a thin single wire coming off the starter, with a connector attached [not the thick one from the battery]. unplug the connector, and read voltage between the single pin at the harness[not starter] side and ground. should be battery battery voltage when the key is in 'start' postion only.

if all this checks good, then you will likely replace your starter [at least the solenoid part, which can be dismounted seperately].

good luck.

GluteusMax

VQ- yours sounds completely different. i posted the other day that when warm, i always 'crack' the throttle when cranking, it starts much faster and runs smooth right away. another poster [new jersey max] also suggested cleaning out the IACV, which would be a good idea as well.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for your inputs. I also have a 97 dealer manual and Haynes. But they are both at home....now that I am in Hawaii, I guess it will be a while to check those connections.

Having said that though, I will check them up once I am back home. Stay put, I will keep you posted.

Now, how do I know I have a convenience package?

GluteusMax

well, on the 95 SE, the C&C pkg includes keyless, alarm, power trunk release,variable intermittent wipers and illuminated vanity mirrors.
good vacation?

ardika

iTrader: (3)

I have the keyless, stock alarm, power trunk release (from cabin and at the remote), variable intermitten wipers...and wait, what is illu...ohh..I get it..yes..I have that one too.

Guess I have C&C package for my 97 GXE.....(no speed limiter!!).

About Hawaii..no, it's not a vacation.....I work as in appraisal business...goverment assets appraiser, such as roadways, bridges, traffic lights, highways...etc.....

So, this time, three of us from Milwaukee were sent to Hawaii to evaluate appraisal process for the whole state. Pretty cool job, but it's time consuming (since you have to do island-hopping and such).


well, on the 95 SE, the C&C pkg includes keyless, alarm, power trunk release,variable intermittent wipers and illuminated vanity mirrors.
good vacation? [/QUOTE]