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Rear Rotor options

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Old Mar 5, 2002 | 05:42 PM
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Rear Rotor options

Ok...after trying to do some research on this POS 33.6 modem connection I need a little assistance. I need new rotors for the rear of my 96. My question(s) are this. I have slotted in the front and it looks like slotted is not available for the rear, sooooo, my choices are this...1) buy x-drilled, but will that look stupid? 2) Will 90-96 300Z Rear rotors fit on the Max or will I have caliper clearence issues(probably searchable but very difficult on 33.6 modem)? 3) Find some OEM type rotors from Pepboys or Autoclone and just go with those?

Thanks for all the help
Old Mar 5, 2002 | 09:21 PM
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Rear slotted are available. I got mine via Fastbrakes for my 97. I think Stillen, Avalon, and others have em too.

P.S. POS 28.8 conn here.
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 04:44 AM
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I could not find a listing on Stillen's website for Slotted rear rotors, just xdrilled. Fastbrakes doesn't have a listing, so I emailed them. Couldn't find anything on Avalon's site either...Anyone else with opinions.

thanks




Originally posted by BEJAY1
Rear slotted are available. I got mine via Fastbrakes for my 97. I think Stillen, Avalon, and others have em too.

P.S. POS 28.8 conn here.
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 05:37 AM
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Oh, and try Phuong too
http://www.eatricezone.com/images/rearslotted.jpg
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 05:40 AM
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Originally posted by BEJAY1
Oh, and try Phuong too
http://www.eatricezone.com/images/rearslotted.jpg
Looks like that will fit...who makes those do you know?
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 06:04 AM
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hmmm...

Your fronts do something like 70% of the braking. Unless you're after looks, the rears are pretty much along for the ride. Slotted/crossdrilled/whatever ain't gonna make much of a difference 'cause they ain't doin much anyway.
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 06:17 AM
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Re: hmmm...

Originally posted by emoore924
Your fronts do something like 70% of the braking. Unless you're after looks, the rears are pretty much along for the ride. Slotted/crossdrilled/whatever ain't gonna make much of a difference 'cause they ain't doin much anyway.

Be careful changing just fronts though. Sometimes if you upgrade rotors and pads in front you'll actually increase stopping distance. It throws the brake bias off and uses the rears less than 30% (in this example).

Saw that test somewhere; Avalon, GRM, Puhn's Make your car handle, etc. (can't remember which)
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 07:48 AM
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Re: Re: hmmm...

I am not too concerned with the front right now. All I am after is a cost savings, the cheapest I can get a DECENT rotor around here for is 105 buck for rears...seems high to me, but if slotted are only 150 for a pair, I will go for that. Hell, even xdrilled are cheaper than 105 for each one.





Originally posted by BEJAY1



Be careful changing just fronts though. Sometimes if you upgrade rotors and pads in front you'll actually increase stopping distance. It throws the brake bias off and uses the rears less than 30% (in this example).

Saw that test somewhere; Avalon, GRM, Puhn's Make your car handle, etc. (can't remember which)
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 08:07 AM
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hmmm again...

Ok, I'm trying to figure this out.

Let's assume for stock that the bias is 70% front and 30% rear. Assume total stopping power is 50 units (units of what, who knows? sorry, not an engineer here but it makes the math easier) So, the fronts, stock, with 70/30 brake bias would do 35 units of stopping, the rears 15. Let's ignore weight transfer, friction circle, all that.

Now, I change only the front rotors, and I leave the bias alone. The new fronts have the potential for 40 units of stopping power because they're slotted or whatever. So, the new total potential is 40 + 15 = 55, a 10% increase in *potential* stopping poser. Now, 70% * 55 = 38.5 and 30% * 55 = 16.5 So, the fronts would not hit their full potential (40) before the rears hit their max (15) resulting in lockup of the rears or getting into the ABS??.
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 08:28 AM
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Re: Re: hmmm...

Originally posted by BEJAY1

Be careful changing just fronts though. Sometimes if you upgrade rotors and pads in front you'll actually increase stopping distance. It throws the brake bias off and uses the rears less than 30% (in this example).

Saw that test somewhere; Avalon, GRM, Puhn's Make your car handle, etc. (can't remember which)
That is relevant for big brake upgrades. You will not drastically alter the braking bias with stock size upgrades.
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 08:29 AM
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Re: hmmm...

Originally posted by emoore924
Your fronts do something like 70% of the braking. Unless you're after looks, the rears are pretty much along for the ride. Slotted/crossdrilled/whatever ain't gonna make much of a difference 'cause they ain't doin much anyway.
while on any other occasion i would have agreed with you, i cant do so now. up to yesterday, i was driving with shot rear pads (while the fronts were almost new) in my 96 max, and braking was terrible! now got new rears, and its a whole new game!
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 08:32 AM
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Re: hmmm again...

Originally posted by emoore924
Ok, I'm trying to figure this out.

Let's assume for stock that the bias is 70% front and 30% rear. Assume total stopping power is 50 units (units of what, who knows? sorry, not an engineer here but it makes the math easier) So, the fronts, stock, with 70/30 brake bias would do 35 units of stopping, the rears 15. Let's ignore weight transfer, friction circle, all that.

Now, I change only the front rotors, and I leave the bias alone. The new fronts have the potential for 40 units of stopping power because they're slotted or whatever. So, the new total potential is 40 + 15 = 55, a 10% increase in *potential* stopping poser. Now, 70% * 55 = 38.5 and 30% * 55 = 16.5 So, the fronts would not hit their full potential (40) before the rears hit their max (15) resulting in lockup of the rears or getting into the ABS??.

That made no sense whatsoever
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 08:47 AM
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Re: hmmm again...

Originally posted by emoore924
Ok, I'm trying to figure this out.

Let's assume for stock that the bias is 70% front and 30% rear. Assume total stopping power is 50 units (units of what, who knows? sorry, not an engineer here but it makes the math easier) So, the fronts, stock, with 70/30 brake bias would do 35 units of stopping, the rears 15. Let's ignore weight transfer, friction circle, all that.

Now, I change only the front rotors, and I leave the bias alone. The new fronts have the potential for 40 units of stopping power because they're slotted or whatever. So, the new total potential is 40 + 15 = 55, a 10% increase in *potential* stopping poser. Now, 70% * 55 = 38.5 and 30% * 55 = 16.5 So, the fronts would not hit their full potential (40) before the rears hit their max (15) resulting in lockup of the rears or getting into the ABS??.
I see his point. I'm pretty sure that the ABS system in our cars is 2 channel. (might even be 4, I'll check the service manual when I get a chance) So if the rears do want to lock up, the ABS is going to kick in and stop that, but your front brakes will not be effected by ABS, so you will get that additional braking power up front.
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 10:09 AM
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yep

my point exactly...
Old Mar 6, 2002 | 10:56 AM
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Originally posted by QikEnuf
I could not find a listing on Stillen's website for Slotted rear rotors, just xdrilled. Fastbrakes doesn't have a listing, so I emailed them. Couldn't find anything on Avalon's site either...Anyone else with opinions.

thanks

Stillen has the rotors u need cross drilled or slotted all the way around... dont count on Stealin website try callin a sales rep




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