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autometer gauges...help!!

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Old Mar 11, 2002 | 10:15 PM
  #1  
j-95G's Avatar
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autometer gauges...help!!

i got some gauges for my 95, but am having trouble with installation.

i got 4 gauges, actually: air/fuel ratio, water temp, fuel pressure, and exhaust gas temp. i put the a/f and water temp in my pillar pod (which fit beautifully-thanx summit!!) and discovered i have no idea where to install the probe for the temp sensor. i found the factory probe, but the threads are metric and the autometer are not. is there any place i can use the sleeves that came with it, or do i need some sort of adapter?

next, i wired up the a/f gauge, but it doesn't seem to be operating correctly. it doesn't go back and forth like it should on a fuel injected system. it usually just sits on 2 bars stoich and one bar lean till i floor it and get over 3800 rpm's. then it just pegs out rich on the last bar. is it sposed to do that because of the heated oxygen sensor, or what?!?!

i haven't installed the other two yet. i plan to put the egt in when i get my y-pipe, and the fuel pressure whith my fuel pressure regulator. so, i'm sure i'll have more questions then.

anyway, any help would be appreciated.
Old Mar 11, 2002 | 11:12 PM
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Re: autometer gauges...help!!

Originally posted by j-95G
i got some gauges for my 95, but am having trouble with installation.

i got 4 gauges, actually: air/fuel ratio, water temp, fuel pressure, and exhaust gas temp. i put the a/f and water temp in my pillar pod (which fit beautifully-thanx summit!!) and discovered i have no idea where to install the probe for the temp sensor. i found the factory probe, but the threads are metric and the autometer are not. is there any place i can use the sleeves that came with it, or do i need some sort of adapter?

next, i wired up the a/f gauge, but it doesn't seem to be operating correctly. it doesn't go back and forth like it should on a fuel injected system. it usually just sits on 2 bars stoich and one bar lean till i floor it and get over 3800 rpm's. then it just pegs out rich on the last bar. is it sposed to do that because of the heated oxygen sensor, or what?!?!

i haven't installed the other two yet. i plan to put the egt in when i get my y-pipe, and the fuel pressure whith my fuel pressure regulator. so, i'm sure i'll have more questions then.

anyway, any help would be appreciated.
First of all, why 4 gauges? You didn't need the A/F if you have an EGT. The EGT is easier to install and is more accurate than an A/F reading off stock O2 sensors. I'm not sure about the temp probe for the water temp gauge. You will need to make adapters for the sending unit on your FP gauge. Are you planning on forced induction?
Old Mar 12, 2002 | 03:43 PM
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Re: Re: autometer gauges...help!!

Originally posted by JAIMECBR900


First of all, why 4 gauges? You didn't need the A/F if you have an EGT. The EGT is easier to install and is more accurate than an A/F reading off stock O2 sensors. I'm not sure about the temp probe for the water temp gauge. You will need to make adapters for the sending unit on your FP gauge. Are you planning on forced induction?
nah, no forced induction. just a 75 shot. that's why i got the egt and the fuel pressure. as for the other two, it's kinda screwed up how i ended up with them. i ordered the egt and a dual gauge pillar post pod from summit. the bastids sent me a cyl head temp gauge instead, but i noticed that the 2 5/8" gauge wouldn't fit. so, i sent the cyl temp gauge back, swapped it for the egt and ordered the engine coolant temp and a/f ratio to go in the pod. (my friend has the a/f gauge; i know it's not accurate, but it looks cool!!) so now i have a fuel pressure for under the hood, a 2 5/8" egt (which i plan to put in a fabricated bracket replacing the dash vent on the left above my heater controls), and the other two are 2 1/16" in the post pod.

but anyway, has anyone hooked up one of the a/f gauges and had it do some weird sh*t like mine?? 'ya think maybe my O2 sensor's tryin to quit on me??
Old Mar 12, 2002 | 04:49 PM
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I don't know how to answer your question. And please forgive me for asking, but if you got the A/F meter knowing it wouldn't be accurate, just because it "looks cool", why do you care how it behaves during operation? A light show is a light show is a light show...
Old Mar 12, 2002 | 06:04 PM
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http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/Dcp00942.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/Dcp00943.jpg

As for your O2 sensor, double check you tapped into the correct wire.
Old Mar 12, 2002 | 10:20 PM
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i did tap the correct wire. the sensor only has 3 wires: one has 12 volts when the ignition is on, one is the signal, and the other is some sort of "signal ground". i tapped both wires other than the 12v, and one worked, one didn't. that's how i know i got the right wire.

i wanted to know if the gauge is reading correctly, bullseye. i know the only real thing the a/f gauge does is tell you if your oxygen sensor is operating normally. since the gauge is acting strange, i thought maybe the sensor may be going bad. i just wasn't sure if the gauge somehow acts differently on the heated oxygen sensor than on a normal 4- or 2-wire system. i got a ecu trouble code of 0806, which someone said could be a lean/rich condition in the front bank of my motor, so i am going to check out the other sensor tomorrow evening. if it acts normal or different in anyway, i'll investigate the procedure for checking the front sensor.
Old Mar 13, 2002 | 04:00 AM
  #7  
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Perhaps I am wrong, but I've been given to understand that the A/F meters that use stock O2 sensors are wildly inaccurate and slow to react to changes in A/F ratio. That's because the stock O2 sensors use such a narrow bandwidth. A/F meters that utilize their own O2 sensor with a broad bandwidth are much faster and more accurate than that, but they cost more. I think the A/F meter from GReddy, for example, costs about $350, and I'm not sure that price includes an O2 sensor... Does this sound right to you? Good luck with that.
Old Mar 13, 2002 | 05:36 PM
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Originally posted by bullseye
Perhaps I am wrong, but I've been given to understand that the A/F meters that use stock O2 sensors are wildly inaccurate and slow to react to changes in A/F ratio. That's because the stock O2 sensors use such a narrow bandwidth. A/F meters that utilize their own O2 sensor with a broad bandwidth are much faster and more accurate than that, but they cost more. I think the A/F meter from GReddy, for example, costs about $350, and I'm not sure that price includes an O2 sensor... Does this sound right to you? Good luck with that.
you are correct, sir.
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