$15 and it works, My Upper Intake pipe
#1
$15 and it works, My Upper Intake pipe
I had posted a little earlier and someone asked me to do a write up, so I made a page for it. After having it a while I really like it, feel safe about its construction and wont be spending 75 bucks for a much nicer looking one. I will be happy to entertain any questions if anyone is interested or if you think it looks stupid. I do have some more pics if anybody wants them. Peace..
http://www.drwebdesign.com/mymaxima/upperintake.html
http://www.drwebdesign.com/mymaxima/upperintake.html
#6
www.courtesyparts.com the k&n filter is up there so all you have to do is click..
#7
www.courtesyparts.com the k&n filter is up there so all you have to do is click..
Highway robbery man, I got the filter and a custom style Billet aluminum filter adapter w/ a velocity stack for less than the cost of the single filter from them. And that was shipped!
#9
ok this is cool, I want to do this cuz I don't have a lot of money. One question, do I need to get the JWT Pop for this or just need the K&N filter alone only? don't need any adapter for the filter or anything? is this the right filter?(link)http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/kn.htm
1989-01 Maxima 3.0L All 33-2031-2 $41.53
thanks, this is not easy for cuz I never work on the car before.
1989-01 Maxima 3.0L All 33-2031-2 $41.53
thanks, this is not easy for cuz I never work on the car before.
#11
Firstly, I would like to say GREAT WORK! I--as well as many others I'm sure--will save over $60 with your method.
But, aren't their concerns about allowing an excessive amount of dirt into the engine?
Like when you remove hose that connects the engine to the upper intake tubing, you replaced it with another (smaller) filter. How can you be confident that it will not compromise the security of the engine?
Thanks again for your efforts on this project, and publishing it for us all to see and benefit from.
But, aren't their concerns about allowing an excessive amount of dirt into the engine?
Like when you remove hose that connects the engine to the upper intake tubing, you replaced it with another (smaller) filter. How can you be confident that it will not compromise the security of the engine?
Thanks again for your efforts on this project, and publishing it for us all to see and benefit from.
#13
Sweet writeup!
I'm currently working on a poor-man's CAI, leading a 3" ribbed aluminum heating hose from a scoop to the bottom of my airbox. (I already have a K&N panel filter in the airbox & didn't want to lose the $ I put out for that). I was trying to brainstorm a way to get rid of that resonator, but now, I don't have to reinvent the wheel. Thanks!
Btw, the only concern I have with your setup is the fact that where the rubber coupling you bought attaches to the Nissan ribbed rubber coupling, there is an abrupt, overlapped seam/edge that protrudes into the direction of the airflow because of the way it is joined. You know what I mean?
It seems to me that this "edge" (if you want to call it that) running around the inside circumference of the Nissan tubing, could cause turbulence and airflow restriction at the top of the intake that would not be present if the inside surface at the leading edge of the joint between those 2 pieces were somehow smooth or at least bevelled (similarly shaped as the Stillen/JWT POP adapter plates, on a smaller scale) to better direct the airflow.
I'm not sure how one would accomplish this, but I had a couple ideas:
1) Rubber is hard to cut/grind/drill at ambient temperatures, but if you could pull the Nissan ribbed tube off the car & put it in the freezer for 1/2 hour or so to let the rubber harden, you might be able to use a Dremel tool to grind a bevelled edge into the otherwise flat/squared-off opening that would otherwise disrupt the airflow.
2) Just join those two pieces and using clear silicone adhesive, reach inside the two joined pieces (off the car) & using your finger, smooth a bead of silicone into place to fill in & smooth out the internal "edge" created by this joint. This, like creating a bevel, would help smooth the airflow into the intake manifold as it passes over this joint.
I'm willing to stand corrected, of course - anyone think these are ideas that could work, or should I just put the crack-pipe down & step away from the keyboard?
Btw, the only concern I have with your setup is the fact that where the rubber coupling you bought attaches to the Nissan ribbed rubber coupling, there is an abrupt, overlapped seam/edge that protrudes into the direction of the airflow because of the way it is joined. You know what I mean?
It seems to me that this "edge" (if you want to call it that) running around the inside circumference of the Nissan tubing, could cause turbulence and airflow restriction at the top of the intake that would not be present if the inside surface at the leading edge of the joint between those 2 pieces were somehow smooth or at least bevelled (similarly shaped as the Stillen/JWT POP adapter plates, on a smaller scale) to better direct the airflow.
I'm not sure how one would accomplish this, but I had a couple ideas:
1) Rubber is hard to cut/grind/drill at ambient temperatures, but if you could pull the Nissan ribbed tube off the car & put it in the freezer for 1/2 hour or so to let the rubber harden, you might be able to use a Dremel tool to grind a bevelled edge into the otherwise flat/squared-off opening that would otherwise disrupt the airflow.
2) Just join those two pieces and using clear silicone adhesive, reach inside the two joined pieces (off the car) & using your finger, smooth a bead of silicone into place to fill in & smooth out the internal "edge" created by this joint. This, like creating a bevel, would help smooth the airflow into the intake manifold as it passes over this joint.
I'm willing to stand corrected, of course - anyone think these are ideas that could work, or should I just put the crack-pipe down & step away from the keyboard?
#14
I am glad you guys are interested!
Not positive, I bought it a long time ago and I called over the phone. I just told him I had a Maxima(didnt know a thing about cars then) and he said I needed a different adapter and sold me a Hayame aluminum one w/ the filter. I am sure there are other sizes, just make sure you get a filter that matches the adapter.
Nah, not really. If I your talking about the filter I put on the valve cover, its just a hose that would pull off the intake air. Lots of Hondas do it, Maximas too. Worst case, I think the little filter gets oily from the crankcase.
Yeah, I think I know what you mean and I thought about replacing the whole accordion section with a reducer to give it that "velocity stack" effect. But, honestly I dont think it would hinder airflow as much as you would think.Especially considering the way it was done with the resonator And man, I bet your idea would work, but it would take me 3 days to get it right!
Oh, and as far as sound? It is soooo sweet! A little grrrr at low rpms and wot. Then when you get into higher revs, sounds like an overgrown combustion factory coming out from your hood. Who needs an exhaust anyway...
is this the right filter?(link)http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/kn.htm
But, aren't their concerns about allowing an excessive amount of dirt into the engine?
Like when you remove hose that connects the engine to the upper intake tubing, you replaced it with another (smaller) filter. How can you be confident that it will not compromise the security of the engine?
Like when you remove hose that connects the engine to the upper intake tubing, you replaced it with another (smaller) filter. How can you be confident that it will not compromise the security of the engine?
Btw, the only concern I have with your setup is the fact that where the rubber coupling you bought attaches to the Nissan ribbed rubber coupling, there is an abrupt, overlapped seam/edge that protrudes into the direction of the airflow because of the way it is joined. You know what I mean?
Oh, and as far as sound? It is soooo sweet! A little grrrr at low rpms and wot. Then when you get into higher revs, sounds like an overgrown combustion factory coming out from your hood. Who needs an exhaust anyway...
#16
Originally posted by Mikesburn
So, from your conversation I'm trying to understand, should I go ahaed with this idea of taking the resinator by attaching the rubber instead of accordion area and also putting CAI, or should I forget about CAI???
Mike
So, from your conversation I'm trying to understand, should I go ahaed with this idea of taking the resinator by attaching the rubber instead of accordion area and also putting CAI, or should I forget about CAI???
Mike
But after seeing alot of posts about ram air/hybrid/hot air/whatever , it makes me wonder why I can come up since I dont have my fogs lights anymore...
#18
Originally posted by Danielsan
Not quite sure what you mean..But, if I am correct, the cai comes with the upper pipe and would eliminate the need for anything I did. I just did it b/c it was cheaper.
But after seeing alot of posts about ram air/hybrid/hot air/whatever , it makes me wonder why I can come up since I dont have my fogs lights anymore...
Not quite sure what you mean..But, if I am correct, the cai comes with the upper pipe and would eliminate the need for anything I did. I just did it b/c it was cheaper.
But after seeing alot of posts about ram air/hybrid/hot air/whatever , it makes me wonder why I can come up since I dont have my fogs lights anymore...
Does it come already with the upper part, you've changed???
#19
Re: Thats cool.
Originally posted by BRIGBOY
Are you sure its aight to just put that breather filter on the valve one like that?
Are you sure its aight to just put that breather filter on the valve one like that?
But if you're really worried you could just tap back into the intake line. I saw a picture where theblue did a nice job.
#20
Are you sure its aight to just put that breather filter on the valve one like that?
Ted
#22
so you're saying CAI will be the best deal anyways?
I made the upper intake pipe because I didnt want to buy the upper part of the CAI (upper part 75 entire CAI 200). So I just made it for 15 bucks. I already had the filter and adapter. Make sense?
My total cost is $85
Filter: about $30
Adapter: about $40
Homemade intake: about $15
And you could get the adapter for less from what I hear.
#23
Originally posted by Danielsan
Nah, Long story made short but here goes:
I made the upper intake pipe because I didnt want to buy the upper part of the CAI (upper part 75 entire CAI 200). So I just made it for 15 bucks. I already had the filter and adapter. Make sense?
My total cost is $85
Filter: about $30
Adapter: about $40
Homemade intake: about $15
And you could get the adapter for less from what I hear.
Nah, Long story made short but here goes:
I made the upper intake pipe because I didnt want to buy the upper part of the CAI (upper part 75 entire CAI 200). So I just made it for 15 bucks. I already had the filter and adapter. Make sense?
My total cost is $85
Filter: about $30
Adapter: about $40
Homemade intake: about $15
And you could get the adapter for less from what I hear.
#24
awesome, i was thinking about doing the same thing, i actually have the 3 inch coupler in my garage. im gonna do it tomorrow morning. this sounds similar to the intake i made out of the ABS tubing. everyone laughs at me when they see it. i laugh at the fact that they cant tune their intake and they spent 150 at least more then i did. i spent that money on a vlsd tranny and AGX's. if anyone wants pics of my setup let me know. its cool cause the ABS doesnt even come close to being affected by under hood heat, and by changing the length you change where the torque peaks. its fun
-pete
-pete
#25
Really?! How cool!
Originally posted by MaxSE98
and by changing the length you change where the torque peaks. its fun -pete
and by changing the length you change where the torque peaks. its fun -pete
#26
Originally posted by Danielsan
Wow, they are expensive ! www.Lightningmotorsports.com has them for 1/3 that!
Highway robbery man, I got the filter and a custom style Billet aluminum filter adapter w/ a velocity stack for less than the cost of the single filter from them. And that was shipped!
Wow, they are expensive ! www.Lightningmotorsports.com has them for 1/3 that!
Highway robbery man, I got the filter and a custom style Billet aluminum filter adapter w/ a velocity stack for less than the cost of the single filter from them. And that was shipped!
#27
Originally posted by Mikesburn
So Daniel, are you saying you have complete CAI???? Including your modifications which you've done for 15 bucks??? Do you recommend it to me, when I have just the K&N Cone filter on my?
So Daniel, are you saying you have complete CAI???? Including your modifications which you've done for 15 bucks??? Do you recommend it to me, when I have just the K&N Cone filter on my?
From what I understand, you already have the filter, right? Your options from there are:
1 Buy the upper intake pipe from Cattman or warpspeed or Place-$75
2 Make the pipe like I did -$15
3 Buy the ENTIRE CAI from Cattman or warpspeed or place - $200
4 Do nothing since you already have a filter- free
Note: I think the entire CAI kit comes with a filter so that prob wouldnt be a good idea. Also, its just a guess on those prices..
Hope that helps
#28
Originally posted by Danielsan
Nah, not really. If I your talking about the filter I put on the valve cover, its just a hose that would pull off the intake air. Lots of Hondas do it, Maximas too. Worst case, I think the little filter gets oily from the crankcase.
Yeah, I think I know what you mean and I thought about replacing the whole accordion section with a reducer to give it that "velocity stack" effect. But, honestly I dont think it would hinder airflow as much as you would think.Especially considering the way it was done with the resonator
Nah, not really. If I your talking about the filter I put on the valve cover, its just a hose that would pull off the intake air. Lots of Hondas do it, Maximas too. Worst case, I think the little filter gets oily from the crankcase.
Yeah, I think I know what you mean and I thought about replacing the whole accordion section with a reducer to give it that "velocity stack" effect. But, honestly I dont think it would hinder airflow as much as you would think.Especially considering the way it was done with the resonator
2) Dyno guys say that accordion section does rob power by affecting the airflow. One overlap doesn't concern me much, but those are like a bunch of overlaps. Part of the benefit of removing the stock resonator is to smooth air flow and speed it up. The accordion slows it down. The only purpose of it is to provide some flexibility between the throttle body and resonator. Why not just use a longer single piece of hose? Or connect the shorter one directly?!!!
#29
Re: Really?! How cool!
Originally posted by KWheelzSB
Have you found that the torque is moved higher or lower in the rev range as the tube is longer/shorter? pleeze enlighten us. Oh, if it's not too much trouble, email me a pic of your setup. . .
Have you found that the torque is moved higher or lower in the rev range as the tube is longer/shorter? pleeze enlighten us. Oh, if it's not too much trouble, email me a pic of your setup. . .
ill get some pics later on, i need to run to pepboys and the depot to get some stuff. ill be back soon
-pete
#30
Re: Re: Really?! How cool!
Originally posted by MaxSE98
the closer the filter is to the throttle body the better it pulls at higher rpm, the further it is from the throttle body the more grunt its got off the line.
ill get some pics later on, i need to run to pepboys and the depot to get some stuff. ill be back soon
-pete
the closer the filter is to the throttle body the better it pulls at higher rpm, the further it is from the throttle body the more grunt its got off the line.
ill get some pics later on, i need to run to pepboys and the depot to get some stuff. ill be back soon
-pete
Well I'm trying to understand which intake will increase my torque (my low-end) power??????????? Coz I have a cone (cleaned) and my torque still sucks!!!
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help!!
#32
Originally posted by OriginalMadMax
1) The valve cover filter is neat. Maybe I'll use the old one from my Harley. The only downside is that the oil from the crankcase could make the engine compartment messy. With the stock setup, you just burn off that excess oil vapor. Hmm ....
2) Dyno guys say that accordion section does rob power by affecting the airflow. One overlap doesn't concern me much, but those are like a bunch of overlaps. Part of the benefit of removing the stock resonator is to smooth air flow and speed it up. The accordion slows it down. The only purpose of it is to provide some flexibility between the throttle body and resonator. Why not just use a longer single piece of hose? Or connect the shorter one directly?!!!
1) The valve cover filter is neat. Maybe I'll use the old one from my Harley. The only downside is that the oil from the crankcase could make the engine compartment messy. With the stock setup, you just burn off that excess oil vapor. Hmm ....
2) Dyno guys say that accordion section does rob power by affecting the airflow. One overlap doesn't concern me much, but those are like a bunch of overlaps. Part of the benefit of removing the stock resonator is to smooth air flow and speed it up. The accordion slows it down. The only purpose of it is to provide some flexibility between the throttle body and resonator. Why not just use a longer single piece of hose? Or connect the shorter one directly?!!!
2. So someone has done a test with the accordion.. I would use a longer piece to connect to the throttle body, but couldnt find one. A reducer might work, but in order to connect the coupling to the reducer, you would have to use 3" PVC pipe which it was made for.(Unless there is a better alternative.)I wonder how much difference there would be between whats there now and (3" reducer to throttle body to pvc to coupling to MAF)? The reducer could have a velocity stack effect.Hmmm....Time to go to the store again
Originally posted by Dan 93 SE
Interesting thread. A price correction however. Danielsan quoted our CAI as $200. FYI, We sell them for $155, that is the complete kit.
Dan WSP
Interesting thread. A price correction however. Danielsan quoted our CAI as $200. FYI, We sell them for $155, that is the complete kit.
Dan WSP
#33
the closer the filter is to the throttle body the better it pulls at higher rpm, the further it is from the throttle body the more grunt its got off the line
Ted
#34
Not so odd
Originally posted by Danielsan
1. I havent had any oil from the filter yet but I am keeping an eye on it just in case. You really think it will mess up the engine compartment even w/ the little filter?Maxima and Harley: odd combo, but cool..
1. I havent had any oil from the filter yet but I am keeping an eye on it just in case. You really think it will mess up the engine compartment even w/ the little filter?Maxima and Harley: odd combo, but cool..
2. So someone has done a test with the accordion.. I would use a longer piece to connect to the throttle body, but couldnt find one. A reducer might work, but in order to connect the coupling to the reducer, you would have to use 3" PVC pipe which it was made for.(Unless there is a better alternative.)I wonder how much difference there would be between whats there now and (3" reducer to throttle body to pvc to coupling to MAF)? The reducer could have a velocity stack effect.Hmmm....Time to go to the store again
[/QUOTE]
It'd be an interesting experiment. Anyway, the dyno guys (Frey Racing) are familiar with lots of cars and experience tells them the accordions have got to go.
#35
Re: Re: Not so odd
Originally posted by Bill Wattison
I just finished installing this. However, it doesn't sound that much different from my stock setup with a JWT Popcharger--performance feels the same as well.
Am I doing something wrong? Or is the difference in sound supposed to be that negligible.
I never did disconnect the battery to reset the ECU; would resetting the ECU make a big difference?
I just finished installing this. However, it doesn't sound that much different from my stock setup with a JWT Popcharger--performance feels the same as well.
Am I doing something wrong? Or is the difference in sound supposed to be that negligible.
I never did disconnect the battery to reset the ECU; would resetting the ECU make a big difference?
I did it to get rid of the resonators, though it is odd that you dont hear any sound difference.It is kinda quiet until I give it all my throttle. Which happens alot more often
#36
Re: Not so odd
Originally posted by OriginalMadMax
Not so odd. Both are big engines with a lot of low-end torque, as opposed to Hondas of either 2 or 4 wheel persuasion (though there are some big Honda bikes now). I think I like both for the exact same reason! As for the vent filter, if it gets oiled, then yes, some could get into the engine bay. Probably not a lot. On the Harley the breather from the crankcase is low, so sometimes it can really puke.
2. So someone has done a test with the accordion.. I would use a longer piece to connect to the throttle body, but couldnt find one. A reducer might work, but in order to connect the coupling to the reducer, you would have to use 3" PVC pipe which it was made for.(Unless there is a better alternative.)I wonder how much difference there would be between whats there now and (3" reducer to throttle body to pvc to coupling to MAF)? The reducer could have a velocity stack effect.Hmmm....Time to go to the store again
Not so odd. Both are big engines with a lot of low-end torque, as opposed to Hondas of either 2 or 4 wheel persuasion (though there are some big Honda bikes now). I think I like both for the exact same reason! As for the vent filter, if it gets oiled, then yes, some could get into the engine bay. Probably not a lot. On the Harley the breather from the crankcase is low, so sometimes it can really puke.
2. So someone has done a test with the accordion.. I would use a longer piece to connect to the throttle body, but couldnt find one. A reducer might work, but in order to connect the coupling to the reducer, you would have to use 3" PVC pipe which it was made for.(Unless there is a better alternative.)I wonder how much difference there would be between whats there now and (3" reducer to throttle body to pvc to coupling to MAF)? The reducer could have a velocity stack effect.Hmmm....Time to go to the store again
It'd be an interesting experiment. Anyway, the dyno guys (Frey Racing) are familiar with lots of cars and experience tells them the accordions have got to go. [/QUOTE]
dont use PVC use ABS the ABS is black and much harder. wont melt as easily, ill try and get pics of my intake up soon. -pete
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
I've got to say Danielsan, I did this about a week ago and I love it!! I don't understand how Bill couldnt hear the difference!!!!Although I do have an idea as to get rid of the accordian tubbing. Im going to run to home depot real quick, and if this works like i think it will, i will post some pics...By the way...thanks for the help!
#38
Re: Re: Not so odd
Originally posted by MaxSE98
It'd be an interesting experiment. Anyway, the dyno guys (Frey Racing) are familiar with lots of cars and experience tells them the accordions have got to go.
It'd be an interesting experiment. Anyway, the dyno guys (Frey Racing) are familiar with lots of cars and experience tells them the accordions have got to go.
Can you get ABS plastic tubing at a home-improvement center? I've never seen it. Where 2 buy?
#39
Re: Re: Re: Not so odd
Originally posted by KWheelzSB
dont use PVC use ABS the ABS is black and much harder. wont melt as easily, ill try and get pics of my intake up soon. -pete
dont use PVC use ABS the ABS is black and much harder. wont melt as easily, ill try and get pics of my intake up soon. -pete
i got mine at an ACE hardware a long time ago, they still have it. as for the idea to eliminate the flex section i havent tried it but i might. people who mailed me wanting pix of my intake im going to take them when i finish my exhaust in a little while , ill take pics of my car too if your interested
-pete