Loud Buzzing sound, nest to washer fluid
Loud Buzzing sound, nest to washer fluid
Does anybody know what the little black box next to the washer fluid neck is? It's buzzing on occasion when my car is on. Just wondering what the hell it is, and if it's a major issue. It's not teh fuse and relay box behind the coolant can. But it's this small box next to the washer neck, I don't see it in the picture in my Haynes manual. But then again they show a 95 max, and I have a 98 Max SE. Thanks.
Are you serious? What exactly is it then? And do you know what can be done to solve it, besides beating it with a hammer. Thanks in advance.
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
It's the thing that makes your flashers stay on.
Seriously, you've got some serious electrical problems there.
It's the thing that makes your flashers stay on.

Seriously, you've got some serious electrical problems there.
So nobody with a 98 Max know what this box is?
Originally posted by elcid
Are you serious? What exactly is it then? And do you know what can be done to solve it, besides beating it with a hammer. Thanks in advance.
Are you serious? What exactly is it then? And do you know what can be done to solve it, besides beating it with a hammer. Thanks in advance.
Re: A buzzing on that side of the engine >>
How the hell do I do that?
Originally posted by Albertt
...could simply mean a bad alternator. My '97 did the same thing. Perform an in car load test on your alternator.
...could simply mean a bad alternator. My '97 did the same thing. Perform an in car load test on your alternator.
Elcid >>
Can't help you with that box issue, I have a '97gxe (Fed-spec). I surmise that the box could have something to do with a Cali-spec emissions setup.
To perform a load test on your alternator, start your engine and connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals. It should read between 12.8VDC and 14.5VDC. Now, turn on the rear window defroster, heater fan on full, headlamps and foglamps, heated seats (if you got them) and even the stereo system if you have an aftermarket setup. THe voltage regulator in the alternator should be able to maintain a voltage of at least 12VDC. If it starts to drop (the rear window defroster and heater fan are high current accessories) steadily, you have a bad alternator...the buzzing is the sound coming from the diodes in the regulator circuitry.
To perform a load test on your alternator, start your engine and connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals. It should read between 12.8VDC and 14.5VDC. Now, turn on the rear window defroster, heater fan on full, headlamps and foglamps, heated seats (if you got them) and even the stereo system if you have an aftermarket setup. THe voltage regulator in the alternator should be able to maintain a voltage of at least 12VDC. If it starts to drop (the rear window defroster and heater fan are high current accessories) steadily, you have a bad alternator...the buzzing is the sound coming from the diodes in the regulator circuitry.
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