rmb

1998 Maxima SE...

I'm doing the H&R Spring (std sport springs) + kyb AGX install now. I've got replacement bearings and those accordian-bumper things that cover the shock rod...

Do you need to trim the bumpers on the accordian piece to account for the extra lowering to keep from bottoming out too soon? If so, how many sections to trim out(There are three bumper segments)?

Any other tips?


Thanks for any help!

-RMB

1998 Black SE, 5spd, Stillen RSB, Courtesy FSB, 225/55/16 BFG KDW meats on stock alloys.

sbslacker

iTrader: (1)

I didn't cut off any on the rears when I did mine. I didn't replace the front ones, so those remained the same.

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

I cut the front ones in half and I think I cut 1 section off of the rears. the dust boots didnt fit on the fronts so I left them off.

rmb

bump

sbslacker

iTrader: (1)

I bought 4 new dust boots for the job. When I looked at the rear suspension setup after it was pulled down, the rear dust boots that I bought looked like direct replacments, so I just switched them out. The fronts however, looked totally different. I noticed my stock boot was built into the metal mount that holds the rubber ring for the spring to sit in. Was yours like this? It didn't look like I could use the front dust boot that I bought, so I just left it out.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

The reasone why your dust boots did not fit is becuase you installed the front ones in the rear or the rear ones in the front, the rear boots are smaller then your front boots, how do I know? I helped Mardigrasmax install his AGX on his car and he accidentally installed on rear boot in the front and it was a heck of a tight fit. No biggie easy fix.

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

thats funny sice I worked on each corner 1 at a time so there was no way to mix-up any parts. I didnt use the OEM boots thats why they didnt fit since the stock ones had to be cut off becasue they were attached to the jounce stopper.

BriGuyMax

iTrader: (1)

you don't even really need the dust boots....save your money and don't worry about them...most cars don't even come with dust boots from the factory...

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

I would keep them on or get them replaced... shocks don't have dust boots because of their design... If dirt/debris get stuck on the piston and it continually 'grinds' at the seals of the strut as it goes up/down with each bump... You'll wear them out real quick...

exhip95

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rmb
[B]1998 Maxima SE...

I'm doing the H&R Spring (std sport springs) + kyb AGX install now. I've got replacement bearings and those accordian-bumper things that cover the shock rod...

Do you need to trim the bumpers on the accordian piece to account for the extra lowering to keep from bottoming out too soon? If so, how many sections to trim out(There are three bumper segments)?

Any other tips?

When I did the H&R/AGX I used new OE boots on the front and rear without having to cut anything. H&R's don't lower the car as much as other springs and I have never had a problem. I have read that some people have cut one accordian section out but that will decrease the effectiveness of the boot. The OE boots fit into the upper mount and are not difficult to replace. The boots WILL prolong the life of the strut.

If you got the KYB mounts for the front which come with bearings I would recommend NOT using them. I did use them and have been unhappy with them. Return them and get new OE replacements.

One last thing, don't reinstall your FSTB until you lower the car back to the ground. When the car is raised the chassis "sags" a little and the upper strut mount position will be slightly wider. If you were to install the FSTB with the front end off the ground when you lower it back down the bar will have too much preload which will put stress on the strut-mount studs. Thats bad.

Best Wishes...

rmb

[QUOTE]Originally posted by exhip95
[B]Great, Thanks for the tips......

One more thing, when tightening the strut mounting bolts I've read that some people say to do it only when the car is back on the ground to get the camber right(even though there's no official adjustment for camber)....

I doubt there's any room to do that in my garage since once it's on the ground with the tire mounted and all there'd be no room for a torque wrench...

Did you do one corner at a time and tighten them to spec while they were still jacked up?

Thanks again

-RMB

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

It'll be easier if you jack the front up and put jack stands behind both front wheel at the designated spots. This will releave the torsion on the sway bar so the lower arms will drop helping to remove the strut assembly.

FYI, I installed the strut bar with the car up. I have had it on that way for about 3 years... no problems (there should be minimal stress to strut mount studs if they are tightened down before lowering the front back down). I haven't had any cambering problems that way either.

rmb

bump

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it is a good idea to torque all the suspension bolts with weight or simulated weight (use a bottle jack to raise the control arm) on the suspension.

Get the strut mounting bolts wrench tight (1/2 turn after the nuts "seat") while the car is raised.

Either use the bottle-jack method, or. . .

Pull the car into your driveway.

Torque bolts to spec. You're done.

How long is the handle on your torque wrench? 10 feet? I'm sure you can find a way to make this happen. Use your imagination.