15 Second Maxima
#5
Re: Re: 15 Second Maxima
Originally posted by Tai Mai Shu
Sorry the VQ isnt a little 4 banger were pulling 15's with our eyes shut
Sorry the VQ isnt a little 4 banger were pulling 15's with our eyes shut
#6
No--with just exhaust, you're looking at mid 15's tops. An auto will do no better, unless the track is slightly downhill or way below sea level. Get an intake, y-pipe, VB mod, and you should be good for about 15 flat...cracking 14's consistently will require an ECU mod, UDP, flywheel, etc...in an automatic, at least. I know numbers vary from track to track and car to car, but in general, a stock 5-speed is good for low 15's and an auto high 15's.
#7
Re: Re: Re: 15 Second Maxima
Originally posted by liquidfire3001
Well I wanna know cuase I'm wondering what my Greddy Cat back will do for me, I mean just a Greddy Cat back on a 95 Auto Se will it run 15, I mean like 15 flat or High 14 even. what would be involved in just gettin in that area within a tenth either way?
Well I wanna know cuase I'm wondering what my Greddy Cat back will do for me, I mean just a Greddy Cat back on a 95 Auto Se will it run 15, I mean like 15 flat or High 14 even. what would be involved in just gettin in that area within a tenth either way?
Greddy's more for looks, why dont you get some REAL performance before your plop down 500 bucks for something like that.
Sugestions:
-Y pipe (WSP prefered)
-CAI Sounds sweet, and helps alot with y-pipe
#8
Originally posted by dental stud
No--with just exhaust, you're looking at mid 15's tops. An auto will do no better, unless the track is slightly downhill or way below sea level. Get an intake, y-pipe, VB mod, and you should be good for about 15 flat...cracking 14's consistently will require an ECU mod, UDP, flywheel, etc...in an automatic, at least. I know numbers vary from track to track and car to car, but in general, a stock 5-speed is good for low 15's and an auto high 15's.
No--with just exhaust, you're looking at mid 15's tops. An auto will do no better, unless the track is slightly downhill or way below sea level. Get an intake, y-pipe, VB mod, and you should be good for about 15 flat...cracking 14's consistently will require an ECU mod, UDP, flywheel, etc...in an automatic, at least. I know numbers vary from track to track and car to car, but in general, a stock 5-speed is good for low 15's and an auto high 15's.
#11
Re: Re: Re: Re: 15 Second Maxima
Originally posted by Tai Mai Shu
Greddy's more for looks, why dont you get some REAL performance before your plop down 500 bucks for something like that.
Sugestions:
-Y pipe (WSP prefered)
-CAI Sounds sweet, and helps alot with y-pipe
Greddy's more for looks, why dont you get some REAL performance before your plop down 500 bucks for something like that.
Sugestions:
-Y pipe (WSP prefered)
-CAI Sounds sweet, and helps alot with y-pipe
#12
You misunderstood him. The Greddy performs as well as any other catback exhaust, but in the case of the maxima, ANY catback exhaust gives minimal gains. For less money, you will see THREE TIMES AS MUCH HP GAIN by getting a Y pipe as opposed to the catback. Think of it this way, you can pay $500 for a catback and get 6 hp and 100 for an intake for another 5 hp, or you can pay $300 at MOST for a Ypipe and get 15-20 hp... which would you choose? Y pipe is the mod to get, not the catback, if you are looking for performance gains.
At bandimere, your car will never run 15s N/A, that's just a fact. Bandimere is typically 1.0-1.5 seconds slower than a track at say 500 feet above sea level. At sea level, a stock auto will run approximately 15.5, give or take a few tenths. Tack on an extra 1.0-1.5 seconds and you are looking at 16.5-17.0, give or take a few tenths. I'd be very surprised if any NA auto 4th gen ever touches 15.999 at bandimere, the chances are almost non-existent.
At bandimere, your car will never run 15s N/A, that's just a fact. Bandimere is typically 1.0-1.5 seconds slower than a track at say 500 feet above sea level. At sea level, a stock auto will run approximately 15.5, give or take a few tenths. Tack on an extra 1.0-1.5 seconds and you are looking at 16.5-17.0, give or take a few tenths. I'd be very surprised if any NA auto 4th gen ever touches 15.999 at bandimere, the chances are almost non-existent.
#13
Originally posted by Nealoc187
At bandimere, your car will never run 15s N/A, that's just a fact. Bandimere is typically 1.0-1.5 seconds slower than a track at say 500 feet above sea level. At sea level, a stock auto will run approximately 15.5, give or take a few tenths. Tack on an extra 1.0-1.5 seconds and you are looking at 16.5-17.0, give or take a few tenths. I'd be very surprised if any NA auto 4th gen ever touches 15.999 at bandimere, the chances are almost non-existent.
At bandimere, your car will never run 15s N/A, that's just a fact. Bandimere is typically 1.0-1.5 seconds slower than a track at say 500 feet above sea level. At sea level, a stock auto will run approximately 15.5, give or take a few tenths. Tack on an extra 1.0-1.5 seconds and you are looking at 16.5-17.0, give or take a few tenths. I'd be very surprised if any NA auto 4th gen ever touches 15.999 at bandimere, the chances are almost non-existent.
Thats a big part of why my times were so good. Montgomery Motorsports Park, where I run, is only 170 feet above sea level. That's pretty much on the beach compared to most tracks.
#14
Hmm, I don't know the altitude in Crofton, MD Capitol Raceway, but a ton of us DC Auto Maximas are pulling low 15's (Ahem). Never heard of Bandimere, sounds like a high-altitude track for Maximas to not hit anywhere in the 15's. With a y-pipe and an intake your bound to hit low 15's if your shifting your auto right, but I can only speak for one of our DC tracks, can't speak of this Bandimere.
#16
Originally posted by JsL
I thought the best way to race an auto was to just leave it in D?
I thought the best way to race an auto was to just leave it in D?
#17
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
That's what I thought as well, until my second time at the track with the same setup as my first but chose to shift it manually, and I was able to knock off 2.6 tenths of second off my 1/4. Ask of any auto DC Maxima driver on the board such as DCmax who saw my results of a 15.2 and decided to take the same route shifting and now hit a 15.1 on a bad track where everyone was doing 3 tenths of a second slower than normal which makes us think he could have been in the high 14's. Jay-Pee, Cashj2002, and Maximillion ar all autos that run low to mid 15's here in MD. Trust us, it is worth moving the shifter instead of leaving it in D, I learned my lesson.
That's what I thought as well, until my second time at the track with the same setup as my first but chose to shift it manually, and I was able to knock off 2.6 tenths of second off my 1/4. Ask of any auto DC Maxima driver on the board such as DCmax who saw my results of a 15.2 and decided to take the same route shifting and now hit a 15.1 on a bad track where everyone was doing 3 tenths of a second slower than normal which makes us think he could have been in the high 14's. Jay-Pee, Cashj2002, and Maximillion ar all autos that run low to mid 15's here in MD. Trust us, it is worth moving the shifter instead of leaving it in D, I learned my lesson.
#19
Originally posted by JsL
I thought the best way to race an auto was to just leave it in D?
I thought the best way to race an auto was to just leave it in D?
I think most of the guys here who manually shift their autos don't have a VB upgrade. I manually shifted the first time I went to the track when I didn't have the VB yet. A few weeks ago, when I went to the track again, I decided to test out by put manually shifting and leaving in Drive with the VB mod to see any difference. No difference whatsoever. Actually I was in few tenths slower with manually shifting than leaving in Drive with the VB.
#21
Originally posted by Cumalot
Hm...time slip?
Hm...time slip?
http://www.mts.net/~tylerh/misc_file...xprcaionly.jpg
#22
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,451
From: Near Archer High School, Ga
Re: Re: Re: Re: 15 Second Maxima
I didnt know greddy was just for looks!
what type of comment was that, Greddy comes with Stainless Steel Pan (exhaust itself), B pipe and Cattback pipe thats the reason why it cost so much. A stillen Pan cost what $249 somewhere around there and it will get rusty too!! Get a whole exhaust system and Greddy is not for the looks other then that I would have never purchased one. Get yourself a Ypipe and a CAI that should put you in the low 15's.
what type of comment was that, Greddy comes with Stainless Steel Pan (exhaust itself), B pipe and Cattback pipe thats the reason why it cost so much. A stillen Pan cost what $249 somewhere around there and it will get rusty too!! Get a whole exhaust system and Greddy is not for the looks other then that I would have never purchased one. Get yourself a Ypipe and a CAI that should put you in the low 15's.
#24
Originally posted by Cumalot
Hm...time slip?
Hm...time slip?
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...7_103_full.jpg
#25
Originally posted by Cumalot
I think most of the guys here who manually shift their autos don't have a VB upgrade. I manually shifted the first time I went to the track when I didn't have the VB yet. A few weeks ago, when I went to the track again, I decided to test out by put manually shifting and leaving in Drive with the VB mod to see any difference. No difference whatsoever. Actually I was in few tenths slower with manually shifting than leaving in Drive with the VB.
I think most of the guys here who manually shift their autos don't have a VB upgrade. I manually shifted the first time I went to the track when I didn't have the VB yet. A few weeks ago, when I went to the track again, I decided to test out by put manually shifting and leaving in Drive with the VB mod to see any difference. No difference whatsoever. Actually I was in few tenths slower with manually shifting than leaving in Drive with the VB.
#26
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
Yea, we don't have a VB upgrade yet, but we can honestly say that it works if you move the shifter at the right time. Next time, try shifting so the needle drops from 6600 rpms, and if that doesn't improve your time, then I don't know what to tell ya.
Yea, we don't have a VB upgrade yet, but we can honestly say that it works if you move the shifter at the right time. Next time, try shifting so the needle drops from 6600 rpms, and if that doesn't improve your time, then I don't know what to tell ya.
#27
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
Yea, we don't have a VB upgrade yet, but we can honestly say that it works if you move the shifter at the right time. Next time, try shifting so the needle drops from 6600 rpms, and if that doesn't improve your time, then I don't know what to tell ya.
Yea, we don't have a VB upgrade yet, but we can honestly say that it works if you move the shifter at the right time. Next time, try shifting so the needle drops from 6600 rpms, and if that doesn't improve your time, then I don't know what to tell ya.
Interesting. When I manually shifted, I shifted at 6000 rpms. Maybe I shifted too early? Hm...
It just suck that with my mods I couldn't even get into the low 15s. I even thought I had a chance to get high 14s...lol. I recently changed out my fuel filter, knock sensor, and got my tranny fluid flushed/refilled. I'll see if any of those factor make a difference the next time I head out to the track.
#29
If you are runnin at bandimere and you are an auto, you will be in the low 17's trust me, I ran a 16.8 with CAI, y-pipe, rt-cat, greddy sp cat back, that was my first time with crappy track conditions, and i am an auto too. I was runnin heavy as$ 17" rims though and really bad 60' times, so I am pretty sure that i can hit mid 16's with smaller/lighter tires and a better launch. Go check you the west cost forum about our bandimere meet, 2 auto max's ran and 2 5-speeds. The 5-speeds where mid 16's
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