Removing spoiler brake LED unit
#1
Removing spoiler brake LED unit
Well, my spoiler brake LED unit is NOT working and there's juice going to the unit. So I'm assuming that one of those resistors blew (see Shop Talk FAQ about spoiler LED). I got the resistors at Radio Shack, but now I'm looking at trying to take this LED unit out... but there is NO WAY to get a standard screw driver in there.
Am I going to have to remove the whole damned spoiler to get to the LED unit? Is there a shallow "elbow" style Philips screw driver available for this kind of thing? How have people done this? Advice much appreciated.
Am I going to have to remove the whole damned spoiler to get to the LED unit? Is there a shallow "elbow" style Philips screw driver available for this kind of thing? How have people done this? Advice much appreciated.
#2
If the car is under warranty the dealership will replace it,mine had water in there and shorted out and was replaced ubder warranty.If i remember right i was told had to take the carpet off on the trunk part and go from there not sure though
#3
Originally posted by shane
If the car is under warranty the dealership will replace it,mine had water in there and shorted out and was replaced ubder warranty.If i remember right i was told had to take the carpet off on the trunk part and go from there not sure though
If the car is under warranty the dealership will replace it,mine had water in there and shorted out and was replaced ubder warranty.If i remember right i was told had to take the carpet off on the trunk part and go from there not sure though
#4
Originally posted by Gary95
Nope, LONG out of warranty. I did pull up the carpet panel to get to the electrical connector, for testing the electrical current. I noticed two bolts holding onto one spoiler strut. They looked like they are on nice and tight. But... I really don't want to remove the spoiler--I'd like to avoid doing this.
Nope, LONG out of warranty. I did pull up the carpet panel to get to the electrical connector, for testing the electrical current. I noticed two bolts holding onto one spoiler strut. They looked like they are on nice and tight. But... I really don't want to remove the spoiler--I'd like to avoid doing this.
goodluck, Hall
#5
Thanks man!
Originally posted by JeepRage
DONT try to take the spoiler off, thats what i did... broke one bolt on either side, and one just spun... now the spoiler is screwed.. try to buy an adapter or anything at sears to get the LED screws out. i got 2 of 3 out... i was just trying to stop the rattle from BASS, and i got nothing but more problems from all that work.
goodluck, Hall
DONT try to take the spoiler off, thats what i did... broke one bolt on either side, and one just spun... now the spoiler is screwed.. try to buy an adapter or anything at sears to get the LED screws out. i got 2 of 3 out... i was just trying to stop the rattle from BASS, and i got nothing but more problems from all that work.
goodluck, Hall
I started to attempt spoiler removal, but balked at those nasty securing nuts. It doesn't look like they're meant to be taken off temporarily. I'll make sure I find an adapter somewhere. Whew!
#6
Repairing it is no easy task
I marvel at the guy who wrote up the DIY steps for repairing the spoiler mounted LED brake light. Separating the lens from the plastic base is @#$%! difficult. The red plastic lens is pretty cheap. The thing was already cracked when I examined it after removal (that explains the moisture and hence the blown resistor from water shorts). And when trying to separate the seam, the red plastic easily chips apart. You have to really take your time on this.
Eventually, I managed to get it apart. The 22ohm resistor (from the 271-1103 resistor pack) does seem to work, although a couple of LEDs show up slightly dim. One is burned out completely.
Unfortunately, the replacement ones you find on www.electrodyne.cc don't match up (the 3-tab ones have the tabs in different positions). So, repairing this seems to be the economical route to go. I wish they had a clear version that matches...
Anyway, I hadn't seen any posts on someone doing this fix. I can definitely say it works.
Eventually, I managed to get it apart. The 22ohm resistor (from the 271-1103 resistor pack) does seem to work, although a couple of LEDs show up slightly dim. One is burned out completely.
Unfortunately, the replacement ones you find on www.electrodyne.cc don't match up (the 3-tab ones have the tabs in different positions). So, repairing this seems to be the economical route to go. I wish they had a clear version that matches...
Anyway, I hadn't seen any posts on someone doing this fix. I can definitely say it works.
#9
Originally posted by iregula
still its mad pain in the **** and $$ if you mess up
still its mad pain in the **** and $$ if you mess up
Ant
#10
Originally posted by ny96max
i dont see how anyone could mess this up?? Its 4 bolts on the trunk lid under the carpeting and thats it!! its pops right off. Oh and the wiring harness for the LED too, that takes .2sec to disconnect.
Ant
i dont see how anyone could mess this up?? Its 4 bolts on the trunk lid under the carpeting and thats it!! its pops right off. Oh and the wiring harness for the LED too, that takes .2sec to disconnect.
Ant
Anyway, I got my LED unit off relatively easily with the offset Phillips screwdriver. Better to do it that way than having to bother with the whole damned spoiler.
The repair went pretty well. The only exception is that two sets of 4 sequential LEDs in the bar are a little dim compared to the others. I would think if its a resistor problem, it would be on/off, not somewhere in the middle. But it's good to have the brake light functional again. Definitely keeping an eye out for a good aftermarket replacement for the future...
#11
Originally posted by Gary95
Well, I don't know if the '96 is any different from the '95, but mine has some whitish sealant around the bolts and the black rubber harness stopper seems likely to rip in trying to get it out.
Anyway, I got my LED unit off relatively easily with the offset Phillips screwdriver. Better to do it that way than having to bother with the whole damned spoiler.
The repair went pretty well. The only exception is that two sets of 4 sequential LEDs in the bar are a little dim compared to the others. I would think if its a resistor problem, it would be on/off, not somewhere in the middle. But it's good to have the brake light functional again. Definitely keeping an eye out for a good aftermarket replacement for the future...
Well, I don't know if the '96 is any different from the '95, but mine has some whitish sealant around the bolts and the black rubber harness stopper seems likely to rip in trying to get it out.
Anyway, I got my LED unit off relatively easily with the offset Phillips screwdriver. Better to do it that way than having to bother with the whole damned spoiler.
The repair went pretty well. The only exception is that two sets of 4 sequential LEDs in the bar are a little dim compared to the others. I would think if its a resistor problem, it would be on/off, not somewhere in the middle. But it's good to have the brake light functional again. Definitely keeping an eye out for a good aftermarket replacement for the future...
#12
Originally posted by ny96max
Nissan quoted me once $60 for the LED alone. I guess if nobody makes one that fits then you have no choice!
Nissan quoted me once $60 for the LED alone. I guess if nobody makes one that fits then you have no choice!
Btw, your ride looks great! Beautiful rims and the Stillen kit finishes it off nicely.
#13
Hi everyone,
I had a similar problem with my spoiler but it turned out not to be the "resistor" on the light circuit but other components including the LEDs. Here's a tip for the future, the part that is described in the ShopTalk write-up as the resistor is in fact a diode. So since many people described having problems with the way their LEDs looked after they were 'fixed' this could definitely be the problem. So use a diode number 1N4002 instead of a resistor.
I had a similar problem with my spoiler but it turned out not to be the "resistor" on the light circuit but other components including the LEDs. Here's a tip for the future, the part that is described in the ShopTalk write-up as the resistor is in fact a diode. So since many people described having problems with the way their LEDs looked after they were 'fixed' this could definitely be the problem. So use a diode number 1N4002 instead of a resistor.
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