Traction
11-29-2000, 11:16 AM
#3
Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 76
Are you talking about when you race?
When racing, don't drop the clutch past 2000 rpms. The instant you hear some wheel spin, let off on the throttle a little bit, and as soon as you feel your tires hook back up, floor it. Also you might want to control your clutch drop along with your throttle control as you take off. Practice every now and then, but don't make it habit, because you'll wear your clutch and tranny out.
If your wheels spin all the time from everyday driving, you need to control the clutch better as you let it out. The Maxima has a heavy stock clutch in general, so if your a new owner, you just have to get use to it. The max's stock clutch is strong, I got a good 70,000 miles out of mine. Take it easy!
If your wheels spin all the time from everyday driving, you need to control the clutch better as you let it out. The Maxima has a heavy stock clutch in general, so if your a new owner, you just have to get use to it. The max's stock clutch is strong, I got a good 70,000 miles out of mine. Take it easy!
11-29-2000, 11:55 PM
#5
Nqah it ain't clutch **** cause I'm a good *** driver! I heal-toe, double clutch, etc. My problem isn't with dumping / slipping. I'm just saying let's say I'm at 2500 RPM cruising and I gun it I start spinning like crazy. I guess that's a good thing, but if I could get it to get all that power to the ground I'd be much happier.
11-30-2000, 05:00 AM
#6
Get stickier tires
There are only 2 factors to consider when evaluating your traction.
The first is the weight, or force, between your tires and the road surface. FWD cars are at a disadvantage here b/c of the rearward weight transfer on acceleration. Aside from radical suspension modifications, there's not much you can do here for the Maxima.
The second factor is the coefficient of friction, or simply, the stickiness of the tires on the road. This coefficient mutliplied by the force described above (called the "normal" force) gives friction, which is what keeps your tire from spinning on the road.
You may notice that contact surface (tire width) is not in this equation. That's b/c it really makes no difference. So, all things being equal, using a wider tire will not improve traction. Wider tires are usually more performance oriented, and thus, have a better coefficient of friction, but a better tire of the same size will do the same. I've seen Chevys run 10's on 7" slicks.
Your stock TOYO's probably aren't the best for drag racing. I'd recommend a stickier tire (not necessarily wider) and to do a small burnout b4 you launch to heat them up. Heat usually increases the coefficient of friction for tires and asphalt.
The first is the weight, or force, between your tires and the road surface. FWD cars are at a disadvantage here b/c of the rearward weight transfer on acceleration. Aside from radical suspension modifications, there's not much you can do here for the Maxima.
The second factor is the coefficient of friction, or simply, the stickiness of the tires on the road. This coefficient mutliplied by the force described above (called the "normal" force) gives friction, which is what keeps your tire from spinning on the road.
You may notice that contact surface (tire width) is not in this equation. That's b/c it really makes no difference. So, all things being equal, using a wider tire will not improve traction. Wider tires are usually more performance oriented, and thus, have a better coefficient of friction, but a better tire of the same size will do the same. I've seen Chevys run 10's on 7" slicks.
Your stock TOYO's probably aren't the best for drag racing. I'd recommend a stickier tire (not necessarily wider) and to do a small burnout b4 you launch to heat them up. Heat usually increases the coefficient of friction for tires and asphalt.
11-30-2000, 05:40 AM
#7
Re: Get stickier tires
Originally posted by cyclemax
There are only 2 factors to consider when evaluating your traction.
The first is the weight, or force, between your tires and the road surface. FWD cars are at a disadvantage here b/c of the rearward weight transfer on acceleration. Aside from radical suspension modifications, there's not much you can do here for the Maxima.
The second factor is the coefficient of friction, or simply, the stickiness of the tires on the road. This coefficient mutliplied by the force described above (called the "normal" force) gives friction, which is what keeps your tire from spinning on the road.
You may notice that contact surface (tire width) is not in this equation. That's b/c it really makes no difference. So, all things being equal, using a wider tire will not improve traction. Wider tires are usually more performance oriented, and thus, have a better coefficient of friction, but a better tire of the same size will do the same. I've seen Chevys run 10's on 7" slicks.
Your stock TOYO's probably aren't the best for drag racing. I'd recommend a stickier tire (not necessarily wider) and to do a small burnout b4 you launch to heat them up. Heat usually increases the coefficient of friction for tires and asphalt.
There are only 2 factors to consider when evaluating your traction.
The first is the weight, or force, between your tires and the road surface. FWD cars are at a disadvantage here b/c of the rearward weight transfer on acceleration. Aside from radical suspension modifications, there's not much you can do here for the Maxima.
The second factor is the coefficient of friction, or simply, the stickiness of the tires on the road. This coefficient mutliplied by the force described above (called the "normal" force) gives friction, which is what keeps your tire from spinning on the road.
You may notice that contact surface (tire width) is not in this equation. That's b/c it really makes no difference. So, all things being equal, using a wider tire will not improve traction. Wider tires are usually more performance oriented, and thus, have a better coefficient of friction, but a better tire of the same size will do the same. I've seen Chevys run 10's on 7" slicks.
Your stock TOYO's probably aren't the best for drag racing. I'd recommend a stickier tire (not necessarily wider) and to do a small burnout b4 you launch to heat them up. Heat usually increases the coefficient of friction for tires and asphalt.
I agree. When I went from my stock BF/Toyo's to my Nitto's I noticed a WORLD of difference. Now I have to really try to get my wheels to spin.
...and from what I hear Nitto's are far from the best tires you can get...
11-30-2000, 06:00 AM
#8
Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 256
How much tread is left on your tires?
My OE tires (Toyo) did the same thing. I now have Dunlop 5000's (225/55/16) and they are an awesome all around tire (no snow in Florida, though). Nothing but traction unless I just drop the clutch in 1st.
My OE tires (Toyo) did the same thing. I now have Dunlop 5000's (225/55/16) and they are an awesome all around tire (no snow in Florida, though). Nothing but traction unless I just drop the clutch in 1st.
11-30-2000, 07:19 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
A520s have a reputation for having terrible straight line traction. Supposedly the handle really well, but just are too slick going straight.
Ditch those tires. Get something like Dunlop SP8000s. I have them and they are the best tires I've used thus far for straight line traction. I just barely break the tires loose when getting into 2nd gear now, whereas before (with stock tires and Pirelli P7000 SS), I spun quite a bit. Launching is much better, too.
Ditch those tires. Get something like Dunlop SP8000s. I have them and they are the best tires I've used thus far for straight line traction. I just barely break the tires loose when getting into 2nd gear now, whereas before (with stock tires and Pirelli P7000 SS), I spun quite a bit. Launching is much better, too.
Originally posted by BrianV
I have Yoko A520 225/50/16 on stock 16's and I spin the hell out of them in first gear no matter what. Anyone got any recommendations on how I can cure this. It really sucks to start spinning.
I have Yoko A520 225/50/16 on stock 16's and I spin the hell out of them in first gear no matter what. Anyone got any recommendations on how I can cure this. It really sucks to start spinning.
11-30-2000, 10:27 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Have you seen the fwd cars
on the drag strips. I'm talking about those civics and the like that have those bars on the rear bumper that lift their *** up. More traction on the front. So just an idea, it will help a lot but will look nasty on the street.
11-30-2000, 12:38 PM
#11
Burnouts
One should NOT do a burnout on street tires. They are designed to work at lower temps than race tires. If you heat them up you will lower your traction. You should only burnout on race tires that are designed to operate at those high temps.
11-30-2000, 12:57 PM
#12
Attn mzmtg: Are you Sure?
I know race compounds can sometimes provide less traction than a comparable street tire b4 warmup, but I'm pretty sure a warmed-up tire is always better than a cold one. I'm not talking about a 3-gear Bozo burnout or anything, just a few seconds of spin usually does the trick. I'm sure there's a temp where traction drops off, too, even on a race tire.
When I drag my bike, I do a small burnout at low wheel speed until I feel the tire start to grab, then a few short hops. It makes a big difference for me.
When I drag my bike, I do a small burnout at low wheel speed until I feel the tire start to grab, then a few short hops. It makes a big difference for me.
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