Hey all,

I finally got my KYB AGXs the other day. I sat down to try to install the rears myself, but it looked pretty complicated. So I was like "Forget it, better let a pro do it.". Anyways, I took it to a local "Undercar Specialist", and they quoted me $630 for 17 hours of labor. Is that what I should expect?

If it is, I'd appreciate it if anyone could point me in the direction of a good write-up on the install.

Thx!

 

They are ripping you off, and it does not take 17 hrs of labor. Normally it would take a person that has done it a couple of time should take about 5 to 6 hrs to do all four. I know it took my uncle 5 hrs to install all four on my car. You should find some other place.

 

Usually I'd expect dinner or a movie before being anally raped like that....

LOL... it took me about 17 hours in my garage alone never having done it before.(With no lift, air compressor, or beer) And... oh yeah.. I redid the fronts completely TWO times since I had put the springs on upside down.

I could now do all four in about 4 hours no problem..... Assuming no broken bolts, stripped nuts, etc...

Your mechanic should be able to do it in at least 4. 4 is also what the Nissan Service manual states for reasonable labor time...

Do a search. There are a ton of posts from people like me who have already done it.

-RMB

1998 SE 5spd H&R/AGX/FSTB/RSB stock SE alloys

 

I am no mechanic but it only takes 4 hours tops to do it. Your looking at $175.00 maybe $50 more tops, do not pay those assh.les that money. If your determined to do it yourself you will get it done. I will be going to the Atlanta area and if you live nearby PM me. Heck two weeks ago I did a Civic in my back yard took me 3 1/2 hours. On my max the rears take me 2 hours tops and I take breaks etc..

 

When I did for the first time, it take me the day to do it with jackstands and handtools. 17 Hours is way to long, you're local "undercar specialist" sounds more like a con artist.

 

rears take about 30-40 mins to do both, dude to do the rears all u do is take off the wheel, take off the bolt holding the base of the shock, then the 2 lugs in the trunk that take out the top half and swap em. the fronts are the the time consumers.

 

I've gotten to the point where I can replace all my suspension in under 2 hours 20 minutes with hand tools! Damn! I can replace mine 7 times!

It's actually VERY easy! You just need to have the spring compressors and it's cake!

Whoa! Too bad you're not nearby or I could do it for ya!

 

Well when I went to do the rears, I saw the big bolt, the 11/16 one. But on the bolt there were these two metal things, IDK, kind of grabbing the nut. I couldn't budge it, even with a 36" Breaker bar.

In any case, thanks for yall's help !!

 

I know what you mean. When I did the rears, I had to spray a penetrating oil on the bolts/nuts and let it set for about 20 minutes. Then we had to use the impact on them and it still put up a big fight. It's tough. I feel your pain.

 

i got it done for 200 dollars and it took a little less than three hours .... when you get it done somewhere else for around 200 bucks take the reciept back to this guy, kick him in the nuts and say ...ha bi-otch

 

My mechanic friend charged me $60 to install all four while I sat in the shade sipping a cold one. Took him 2 hours! Would have taken him less time If I hadn't been so conversive with him.

Install B&G's with the AGX's. I did and now REALLY ENJOY THE RIDE!
(Smoother, quieter, more controlled, flatter cornering, and more attractive stance-- all at near stock ride comfort) If you have over 60,000 miles, replace boots on all 4 struts/shocks and the front upper strut mount bearings too so as to avoid future expenditures of $$$$$. Check out Lime's thread at the top of this forum for part #'s, prices and where to order on-line. Then look in the classifieds for a mechanic who does work on the side or ask around town. Negotiate with him directly to install your customer supplied parts for $75-$100, not the boss-man who needs to pay for his wife's liposuction and breast augmentation at your expense.

Once you've had it done for less, call the SOB who quoted you 17 hours to let him know you found an ASE certified mechanic who did the job for 25% of what he quoted you. Tell that SOB you intend to tell all your friends about your experience with him and then really make his day by informing him in the calmest tone that once you conclude your telephone conversation, your next call will be to the State Attorney General's Office, Consumer Affairs Division.

 

How'd you manage to put them in upside down? Is it really easy to do? What's the thing to look for to ensure they are right side up?

Thanks--planning on doing mine very soon.

 

Okay, well, I tried. That 11/16" Bolt at the bottom of the strut isn't going anywhere. I actually broke a socket trying to get it off. I've sprayed maybe 8 coats of WD-40 on it, and it isn't even budging. I'm gonna have to take it somewhere to get done unless yall can tell me why this thing isn't moving. Like I said, On the Nut, there are pieces of metal, like a bracket, surrounding it. So I can only use the ratchet on the bolt itself, I can't even get a wrench onto the nut. Is this the way it is on all maximas, or just mine?

 

hahahaha first of all 17 damn hours to replace the rear suspension, yeh if your freakin 5 years old!!!!!!! Hey it's not that hard but if you don't know anything about cars then take it someone else, me it took 5 hours and I was shooting hoops for one hour out the 5, oh and the bolt your talking about........I had the same problem, it's not gonna come off with simple ratchet tools you have to take it to a mechanic to loosen it up slightly which will allow you to take it off once you get home. The bolt is pretty long so all he has to do is loosen it for you once you get that off you should have minor difficulties with the install meaning it's gonna take some elbow grease and sweat and tears haha. I did mine today and it wasn't too complicated but whatever you do make sure you install the rubber bushing at the top of the shock bay cause if you dont your gonna have a harsh ride cause the bolts and washer will hit together when the springs compress when you hit bumps. Oh by the way where are you located? sorry for the long post guys. haha

 

I would suggest getting a breaker bar $5-$10.

 

That's how I broke the 11/16" Socket. a 40" Breaker bar. It's going to a shop tomorrow. I really hate this - I know exactly how to do it, but because of one bolt, I'm not able to. This makes me really angry.

 

A competant mechanic with the right tools should be able to replace the shocks & struts in a couple of hours.

I did mine over 3 or 4 days when I could get away from work and the "old lady". If I had to do it all over and was being timed - I think I could do it in less than 3 hours.

It looks intimidating (especially the front), but once you've done it - you realize how easy it was.

I had to buy an air impact wrench to get the fronts off.

The key to a quick install is correctly aligning the bottom mounts with the top when putting the assemblies back together. Especially on the rear shocks. The front struts are more forgiving.

I had to pull and adjust the alignment on the first rear assembly a couple of times (which means recompressing the springs). On the second assembly, I marked the old assembly with a couple of paint marks and managed to get it right the first time.

I took pictures of the process and will have a write up on:

http://www.skippynet.com/maxima/mods.htm

sometime this week.

Another thing you will want to think about whether you install them or have a "pro" do it, is which direction you want to have the dials facing on the rear shocks. I have mine facing in. I've heard of others facing them out. Just seems like it should be easier to adjust. I wish KYB had put the adjustors on top like the fronts.

One last thing - you're going to love the ride after you strap them on!!!

 

"aligning the bottom mounts with the top"... can you be a little more specific? Do you mean ensuring that the mounts are perfectly parallel with each other?
I heard that they face in no matter what. You just have to remember the dial configuration and count the clicks. I think someone said that if they did face outward, they'd get debris on them much easier which would eventually ruin the dials.

 

Hmm....that implies that you've actually been anally raped
before!! OUCH! LOL

 

When you pull the old shock assembly off of the car, take a straight edge and put one end on top of the hole that the bolt goes through on the bottom of the shock. Put the other end at the top of the shock assembly. Make sure the straight edge is paralell with the shock itslef. Put a mark on the top plate with the 2 studs sticking out of it and the top of the spring with paint, or tape or a scratch.

When you rebuild the assembly and are ready to decompress the springs, make sure the two marks you made earlier are aligned at the top.

This will save you time because once you decompress the springs, you can't adjust the position of the studs and the bottom mount without compressing the springs again.

I other words, the position of the bottom mount is realtive to the two stud mount at the top.

You can mount them to where the dials are in or out. If they are out, they are harder to get to because of the wheel and I would imagine they are prone to getting dirtier. I'm just saying to be aware of their position while rebuilding the shock assembly and mounting them back in the
car.

Hope this helps.