I want to order the VI for my 97 auto GLE and I was wondering how hard it would be to install.

 

Looks relatively easy. I am hoping to get one as well. I've seen one in person and it looks like a really simple install. Here's a link to IanS install intstructions. http://www.cyberhub.net/intake/

 

It is cake to install all you have to do is remove a few clamps for hoses and then a few screws...I would suggest when you take screw or a piece off the manifold that you add it on to the VI right away. Therefore no confusion. It took my friend and I 2 1/2 hours to put the VI on, so the car is in running order, but I haven't gotten the RPM switch so we haven't installed that yet...ordered that over a week 1/2 ago, but I'm sure this is pretty straight forward and will add another 1 or 2 on the install. But it is straight forward.

 

Can you run it withou the switch for awhile or how does that work?

 

Yeah if you don't have the switch it will drive like a normal Maxima or you can tie the VI open at the actuator to feel the boost in the upper RPMs. But there is no problems driving the car without the RPM switch. So, your car is drivable in about 2-3 hours after the install, so if you don't have time for the RPM switch you can put it off for next weekend and still drive the car around. Hope that made sense.

-John

 

Since your VI is always on, has lo end TQ suffered at all compared to stock?? Just curious.

DW

 

It is not that hard swapping the intake manifolds out but it is detail orientated. There are three parts to the VI install. First part is removal and installation of the intake manifolds. Second part is setting up the vacuum system to activate the VI. And the third part is the wiring of the RPM switch, relay, and solenoid.

All you need are ordinary hand tools and a torque wrench. 1997 on up maximas have the evap and other emission control items mounted on top of the intake manifold where 1995 and 1996 maximas do not. To be safe I labeled all the parts with strips of tape to keep track of that rat's nest on top of the intake manifold. Removing and installing the two mounting bolts and the coolant hoses on the back of the manifold are the most time consuming steps due to limited work space and not being able to see what you are doing.

I had to fashion a small bracket which I made from a flat strap of steel to mount the evap to. There are no threaded studs on the VI to fit the evap onto which are present on the OE manifold.

The vacuum system is a cupcake to set up. Just "T" off of the evap hose and make the appropriate connections for the vacuum reservoir and solenoid.

Wiring the RPM switch off one of the coils is the easiest way to install it. I'm a masochist myself and decided to wire the RPM switch inside the passenger compartment.

 

Yes the low end hasn't suffered much but the mid-range like 3500-5000 has definitely suffered and I have notice a big change there. That is why I need the RPM switch. But, I do have to say I love the high end pull. It rocks

-John

 

Hopefully with a more free flowing exhaust than what I have on my max you won't suffer the same mid range hp/torque loss that I did even with the VI completely installed.

 

Don't you have a ypipe? If you do, what else do you think would be better to add? Btw, I'd like to see the dyno of one of these w/ the factory intake.

 

yes I have a y-pipe but after that I am stock. Mr. Cranman has a y-pipe, ahem "free flowing" cat, and a cat-back exhaust. I would think his entire exhaust systems flows more than mine.

 

I guess we won't know until we see his dyno. It seems like there are so many possible variables. Exhaust restrictions, exhaust velocity, altitudes, etc. It will be interesting to see. Can't wait. It's been my understanding that exhausts don't do too much for our cars.

 

Yeah so many variable but I can't wait to see the gain on a more open exhaust. I'm just waiting on the RPM switch. I'm also going to take one run with the VI open and I'll just take off the CIA and just put it in the engine pay to see what that does see if which one is better, which one gives better advantages...Then I can see what would be more cost effective either having a CAI or just basically a pop-charger. But, we'll see. My dyno run is going to be one fully open one fully closed and then like 3 trying to find the right place to set the RPM switch and then like one without the CAI. I can't wait for the dyno run but I'm getting frustrated not having the rpm switch in

-John

 

Update to everything:

i did 8 Dyno runs between 3500 and 6000 RPMs.

5000 was perfect. If you go any lower, then theres not enough pressure buildup and you drop hp and tq and never fully recover it by redline.

If you go too high, you don't get the full effect.

Also, I have worked out a solution for my PayPal problems, and it goes like this:

I'm tkaing 50% up front. In 2 motnhs, when the VI's arrive, I will take the other 50%. if you don't have your other 50% by then, then I will simply sell it to someone else and give you your money back.

I can take checks or money orders or wire transfers. See hte "Varible intake GD" thread in the GD Forum for informaiton on why i can't and now won't use PayPal.

They are a shaaaaady company.

Hopefully this 50% thing will help people with cash flow problems and give them time to save up the rest. Total price is $560 to your door.

E-Mail me at cyberoptik@cablespeed.com with questions.

Thanks,
IanS