I was wondering if anyone has this problem. I have a 98 auto SE. The battery was replaced a few months ago and now I'm having the same problem (starting). On the first try the tach revs and then drops to zero and stalls out. The only modification I have is a K&N filter. No spark plugs or wires were ever replaced. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated

 

Actually I did have this problem not too long ago. The problem is simple, your car is idling too low. Here's the link to detailed instructions on how to repair the problem. Takes about 10 min or so, depending on you.
http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/
When you get to this site,look at the section to the left for a topic that says "maintenece", then click it one time and it will bring up some subtopics. Look for 4th gen idling and click on that once. There you go.

 

Actually, adjusting the idle will not help. I adjusted mine and each time, the computer eventually resets it to the low low idle that the car usually has. My car idles in park at around 750, in drive, around 600. I reset both idles to 850 and 700, respectively, but after a month, it's back to 750/600 again.

So, I've given up on the matter.

 

More details would be helpful. Does your starter motor crank as fast as when the car was new? When you crank the engine does it fire right away, or do you have to crank for ten seconds before "Vroom"? Is the problem more pronounced when the engine is hot or cold? Is the problem more pronounced when the engine has been left unstarted for two hours? Eight hours? 24 hours? Is the problem consistent, or intermittent? Has this car ever had the gas tank run dry?

 

My maxima had a problem starting this past week some days it would and then i would leave my car and come back and it would nto crank....the next morning i would come back and it would. it did this twice. I took it in that they replaced my starter and it has worked fine. Mine was in 3 peices....might want to check on yours.

 

The problem with it firing up is more pronounce after the car has been sitting overnight, but in some cases after a few hours. It doesn't stall at a light or anything, once it fires up it runs fine. I have a feeling it could be the alternator. As a reminder this is my second battery within 3 years. What the heck is the problem. Could it be the alternator???

 

My would keep running after i finially got it started.....but some times it would and some times it wouldn't...i asked the guy to check the alt. and he did and i said what about the started and he looked at it...all 3 peices.

 

our 95 SE auto has the same problem..i bet there are thousand of maximas with the same exact problem. kinda annoying. probably wearing the engine out as well. i put the key on ACC and wait for the beeps to stop..then i turn the key firmly to ON and make sure there's complete contact. usually the engine starts right away. but every now and then there's hesitation that requires a second attempt or a stomp on the peddle. sometimes there's a lumpy idle for a few seconds as well. what is it? fuel system not getting it there? engine management? starter/alternator?

 

The principal symptom of a bad alternator is a discharged battery,
resulting in slow cranking or no cranking.
That is not the problem you are having.

Idea #1) A leaky fuel pump check valve allows residual pressure to drop to
zero. Test this idea by turning the key to "on", waiting for ten
seconds, and then turning the key to "start". This brief delay allows the
fuel pump extra time to build pressure in the fuel rail.

Idea #2) Leaky fuel injectors allow residual pressure to "pee" gasoline into
the intake manifold, causing the engine to choke on an over-rich mixture for
the first few seconds of run time. Test this idea by cranking the engine
to start with the gas pedal floored. A wide open throttle while cranking
is a signal to the ECM to "clear a flooded engine".

Please make these simple tests and report your observations.

 

Especially on them cold mornings...before you're about to crank the motor:

Insert the ignition key, turn it to the second click position on the switch, this is the ON position...all systems are on and the starter is ready to crank. But, hold it there for about 2 to 3 seconds before you turn more to crank the motor. This allows the fuel pump to prime and reduces the chance of a failed start.

 

Idea #2) Leaky fuel injectors allow residual pressure to "pee" gasoline into
the intake manifold, causing the engine to choke on an over-rich mixture for
the first few seconds of run time. Test this idea by cranking the engine
to start with the gas pedal floored. A wide open throttle while cranking
is a signal to the ECM to "clear a flooded engine".

Please make these simple tests and report your observations.

[/I][/QUOTE]

what happens after I floor it and start? Will the engine start and go immedietly to redline?
How is this different from just starting with gas depressed a little. My maxima starts when I crank it with a little of gas, so I guess my question is how will the full throttle test be different from from what I do now?

 

Yes, if you are foolish enough to keep the pedal floored AFTER you stop cranking. I guess you didn't read my post, so I will say it again: A wide open throttle while cranking is a signal to the ECM to "clear a flooded engine".
Then you don't really have a problem.

 

Then you don't really have a problem. [/I][/QUOTE]

Now you got me confused by saying I don't really have a problem. Didn't the person you replied with your solution have the same problem as I do?
He can't start HIS car without a little gas when cranking
I can't start MY car without a little gas when cranking

Your solution is to clear the flood by cranking with full throttle. How will this help, if all I can do to start the carwith a little gas.... I guess I'm looking to get to the root of the problem, not just a temporary fix.

 

For the second time you have exhibited an unwillingness to read a previous post. SmackdownGTR originated this thread, and he said "On the first try the tach revs and then drops to zero and stalls out." You jumped into the middle, saying you have the same problem. Evidently you don't have the same problem. Go back and read his posts.

SmackdownGTR never said this. Go back and read his posts.

I never offered a "solution". I offered two diagnostic tests. I ended the post with this: "Please make these simple tests and report your observations." Go back and read my posts.

There is an important difference between a diagnostic measure and a remedial measure. Based on feedback from SmackdownGTR, I *might* be able to offer advice on fixing his car. We haven't come to that point yet.