Pancor

I've had my '98 GXE for about two weeks now, and I LOVE it. Very fast for an automatic. It's getting cold up here in Canada, and three times already I noticed the car won't start when the engine is cold. It'll stall right asway after start. If I start it then quickly keep the revs at 1500 or so for 4 seconds, it will run like normal without stalling. Any ideas? I had a Mazda with a problem like this, and it turned out to be the throttle body. But the Max isn't very old... Could it be maybe that I filled up with regular gas last time?

Wizeguy

I doubt that the regular gas is the problem however the max needs premium. This seems to be a common problem on the Maxima, Shing experiences this too. BTW... His is also and auto.

Daniel B. Martin

The Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor sends a signal to the Engine Control
Module (the computer). When the ECM gets a "cold engine" signal it directs
the fuel system to provide a rich mixture to help with starting. This is
similar to the function of the choke on a carbureted engine.

Your symptoms suggest that the ECTS has become inaccurate and always sends a
"warm engine" signal to the ECM. That's okay when the engine already is
warm but causes hard starting when the engine is actually cold.

With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance.
Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop
the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading
should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.

The Chilton Maxima shop manual gives these specs:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.)

The ECTS is a relatively inexpensive sensor and something the home mechanic
can replace without special tools.

tunedup

have the same prob every mornin
what i do is
i put the key in tunr it all the way to accessory
* all the way iwhtout startin the car *
and leavce it there for 20 secs...
tehn i jus strat her up and it runs fine...
what this does is the fuel builds pressure and it gives it one big push.

sleeper

i don't think this is why your car isn't starting, but since it is extra cold in canada i would want to use a lighter W-weight oil. lets the engine turn easier when cold. of course you already know that. lol

Donald Duckk

Where is it located? I think I have this same problem.

email me please

Daniel B. Martin

The Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.

jlwardn

I have the exact same thing going on. It is cold here in Michigan too. I tried better gas, new plugs and nothing is helping. At seems to idle low with little load on it. With no load it was idling at 500RPM. I hooked up Consult and then turned up the idle to almost 700rpm. Now it idles fine at a "no load" It still won't start without a little gas when it is cold and still idles at 500 under little load(at stop sign in drive and with brake pedal pushed)

Daniel B. Martin

You may have a problem with the IACV-AAC valve. Here is some text copied from the factory service manual.

*** Beginning of FSM excerpt ***
"Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) -- Auxiliary Air Control (AAC) Valve

This system automatically controls engine idle speed to a specified level.
Idle speed is controlled through fine adjustment of the amount of air which
by-passes the throttle valve via the IACV-AAC valve. The IACV-AAC valve
changes the opening of the air by-pass passage to control the amount of
auxiliary air. ... "
*** End of FSM excerpt ***

You may make a quick test of your IACV-AAC in the following way. With the
motor at normal operating temperature, and at idle, switch the A/C from
"off" to "maximum". Keep your eye on the tachometer as you do this. The
idle speed should dip momentarily and then recover. If it does this, the
IACV-AAC is working. If the idle drops and does not recover, the engine
may stumble, falter, and stall. The IACV-AAC may require cleaning,
adjustment, or replacement.

The correct idle speed is...
- 700 +/- 50 (automatic transmission, in Neutral)
- 625 +/- 50 (5-speed)

There are other engine parts which play a role in maintaining the right idle
speed, but the IACV-AAC is the first thing to look at.