Spark Plugs
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,024
60K from Bosch Plat +4 plugs? Holy sparkplug Batman
Get yourself the NGK plugs and NEVER use anything else.
Oh and consider yourself very lucky that you got that kind of mileage on Bosch plugs.
Get yourself the NGK plugs and NEVER use anything else.
Oh and consider yourself very lucky that you got that kind of mileage on Bosch plugs.
I asked the same question yesterday, there is someone on the board that will sell them to you for $45. I just bought mine from DaveB (with a knock sensor) for just $52, and he shipped them with the Knock sensor.
Someone told me exactly why the Maxima NEEDS NGK platinum, something about reverse polarity.....
Someone told me exactly why the Maxima NEEDS NGK platinum, something about reverse polarity.....
Originally posted by fst96se
I asked the same question yesterday, there is someone on the board that will sell them to you for $45. I just bought mine from DaveB (with a knock sensor) for just $52, and he shipped them with the Knock sensor.
Someone told me exactly why the Maxima NEEDS NGK platinum, something about reverse polarity.....
I asked the same question yesterday, there is someone on the board that will sell them to you for $45. I just bought mine from DaveB (with a knock sensor) for just $52, and he shipped them with the Knock sensor.
Someone told me exactly why the Maxima NEEDS NGK platinum, something about reverse polarity.....
Btw, who's selling the plugs? $45 shipped?
I just purchased NGK double IRIDUIM for the same money as ngk platinums spoke with engineer at ngk facilities in Jersey gave me the plug numbers and recommended these said they're a better plug use less voltage and durablility was better longevity was 80-100,000 miles
Originally posted by brodaiga
I was told that if u use platinum plugs with SC setups, u'll mess your car, so cold step copper is it, if u got a SC.
I was told that if u use platinum plugs with SC setups, u'll mess your car, so cold step copper is it, if u got a SC.
I just replaced my stock NGK plugs with one step colder NGK PFR6G-11s last night after 75,000 kms. I installed the V2 SC on Oct.10, 2000. I started to hear pinging when accelerating hard lately. I looked at all of the plugs and 5 out of the 6 had a reddish-brown dusting on the electrode and the firing end. Checking the end cover of the Haynes manual suggests that these were either worn or not in the correct heat range. The sixth plug had some small amounts of ash deposits on the sides and center of the electrode. This could be because I was using 87 octane for a year before finding out that I should be at 92 octane or better but shouldn't all of the plugs have the same results?
I spent 3 hours on this job because first the Blitz BOV had to be removed in order to slip off the valve cover. Using an Allen key in the cramped space between the screw and the hot valve cover was fun
. Putting it back on was equally fun too.
The worst part was the last plug by the throttle body. I thought I could slip out the coil without moving it and the FSTB but when I tilted the coil the rubber boot came off. Sticking the coil back in did not reseat the boot and so I moved the part that sat above the coil and the loop that the throttle cables pass through, cut up a coat hanger and make a loop at one end so that it is the same diameter as the coil tip bump. After a few tries and body contortions I got it out.
All in all, with the proper tools it is actually quite easy to do.
I spent 3 hours on this job because first the Blitz BOV had to be removed in order to slip off the valve cover. Using an Allen key in the cramped space between the screw and the hot valve cover was fun
. Putting it back on was equally fun too.The worst part was the last plug by the throttle body. I thought I could slip out the coil without moving it and the FSTB but when I tilted the coil the rubber boot came off. Sticking the coil back in did not reseat the boot and so I moved the part that sat above the coil and the loop that the throttle cables pass through, cut up a coat hanger and make a loop at one end so that it is the same diameter as the coil tip bump. After a few tries and body contortions I got it out.
All in all, with the proper tools it is actually quite easy to do.
Originally posted by brodaiga
I was told that if u use platinum plugs with SC setups, u'll mess your car, so cold step copper is it, if u got a SC.
I was told that if u use platinum plugs with SC setups, u'll mess your car, so cold step copper is it, if u got a SC.
Anyt truth to this?
Doesn't matter anyway, I already bought the colder coppers.
I just replaced my stock NGK plugs with one step colder NGK PFR6G-11s last night after 75,000 kms. I installed the V2 SC on Oct.10, 2000. I started to hear pinging when accelerating hard lately. I looked at all of the plugs and 5 out of the 6 had a reddish-brown dusting on the electrode and the firing end. Checking the end cover of the Haynes manual suggests that these were either worn or not in the correct heat range. The sixth plug had some small amounts of ash deposits on the sides and center of the electrode. This could be because I was using 87 octane for a year before finding out that I should be at 92 octane or better but shouldn't all of the plugs have the same results?
I spent 3 hours on this job because first the Blitz BOV had to be removed in order to slip off the valve cover. Using an Allen key in the cramped space between the screw and the hot valve cover was fun
. Putting it back on was equally fun too.
The worst part was the last plug by the throttle body. I thought I could slip out the coil without moving it and the FSTB but when I tilted the coil the rubber boot came off. Sticking the coil back in did not reseat the boot and so I moved the part that sat above the coil and the loop that the throttle cables pass through, cut up a coat hanger and make a loop at one end so that it is the same diameter as the coil tip bump. After a few tries and body contortions I got it out.
All in all, with the proper tools it is actually quite easy to do.
I spent 3 hours on this job because first the Blitz BOV had to be removed in order to slip off the valve cover. Using an Allen key in the cramped space between the screw and the hot valve cover was fun
. Putting it back on was equally fun too.The worst part was the last plug by the throttle body. I thought I could slip out the coil without moving it and the FSTB but when I tilted the coil the rubber boot came off. Sticking the coil back in did not reseat the boot and so I moved the part that sat above the coil and the loop that the throttle cables pass through, cut up a coat hanger and make a loop at one end so that it is the same diameter as the coil tip bump. After a few tries and body contortions I got it out.
All in all, with the proper tools it is actually quite easy to do.


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NGK!!!

