Vibration around 60-70 mph- help!!
#81
I'm pretty sure that the problem does go deeper >>
Originally posted by sgmax
It's amazing just how many people have this same problem - has anyone ever actually solved it (other than the guy with the rocks in his tires)? If so, we'd like to hear! What is the magic solution? Let us know if those brakes and struts help the problem
It's amazing just how many people have this same problem - has anyone ever actually solved it (other than the guy with the rocks in his tires)? If so, we'd like to hear! What is the magic solution? Let us know if those brakes and struts help the problem
I had new rotors put on...vibration is still there.
#82
Well unfortunately the rotors and the coilovers and stuts are ina nd the damn vibration is still there but damn my car i shot. SOrry just had to brag. Anyways for now I am stumped again. I really thought this may work but indeed it didn't and left me wondering if I will ever figure it out.
#83
You shot your car?? Damn, I guess that vibration really bothers you!
Originally posted by 97GLEMAX
Well unfortunately the rotors and the coilovers and stuts are ina nd the damn vibration is still there but damn my car i shot. SOrry just had to brag. Anyways for now I am stumped again. I really thought this may work but indeed it didn't and left me wondering if I will ever figure it out.
Well unfortunately the rotors and the coilovers and stuts are ina nd the damn vibration is still there but damn my car i shot. SOrry just had to brag. Anyways for now I am stumped again. I really thought this may work but indeed it didn't and left me wondering if I will ever figure it out.
#85
Problem solved
I had this problem...and solved it. Here's the history:
Round 1.
99 SE, blew two tires in a pothole and replaced the whole set of stock Toyos with Dunlop SP8000s at a Goodyear shop. The first time I went in for my lifetime rotate and balance is when the vibration showed up. I took it back complaining and they re-balanced the tires. Problem solved.
Round 2.
The Dunlops wore out fast so I replaced them with BFG (can't remember the model) at an NTB shop. At the first complimentary balance and rotation, the vibration came back. I complained, they re-did the balance and the vibration was still there. They put one tire on the machine and showed me how it was tracking side to side, like a bent bicycle wheel and said the Max is sensitive to this kind of problem. They offered to switch me to Michellins so I went for it. Problem solved.
Round 3.
At the SECOND (not first) rotate and balance, the vibration showed up. This was done at a different NTB shop. I complained, they rebalanced, and it was a little better. I drove on to the THIRD rotate and balance and the vibration was terrible. I also noticed that there was no balance weight on one of the wheels. I brought it back to the original NTB and they fixed it. It feels so good to drive it without the vibration. I guess the balance on these has to be absolutely perfect or the car will vibrate.
Hope this helps.
Round 1.
99 SE, blew two tires in a pothole and replaced the whole set of stock Toyos with Dunlop SP8000s at a Goodyear shop. The first time I went in for my lifetime rotate and balance is when the vibration showed up. I took it back complaining and they re-balanced the tires. Problem solved.
Round 2.
The Dunlops wore out fast so I replaced them with BFG (can't remember the model) at an NTB shop. At the first complimentary balance and rotation, the vibration came back. I complained, they re-did the balance and the vibration was still there. They put one tire on the machine and showed me how it was tracking side to side, like a bent bicycle wheel and said the Max is sensitive to this kind of problem. They offered to switch me to Michellins so I went for it. Problem solved.
Round 3.
At the SECOND (not first) rotate and balance, the vibration showed up. This was done at a different NTB shop. I complained, they rebalanced, and it was a little better. I drove on to the THIRD rotate and balance and the vibration was terrible. I also noticed that there was no balance weight on one of the wheels. I brought it back to the original NTB and they fixed it. It feels so good to drive it without the vibration. I guess the balance on these has to be absolutely perfect or the car will vibrate.
Hope this helps.
#87
This is my reply to "over sensitivity" with the Maxima: it shouldn't exist! Period! There are many makes and models out there that one can by and not have to deal with the issue of vibration. The mere fact that we have to spend so much of our time and money trying to get correct tires and perfect balancing and alignments is a sign that this car has an inherent problem with it's suspension. I say "buyer beware"!
#88
Actually DanNy also mentioned the possibility that it could be my tires >>
Originally posted by kvzeyde
I said way back it was the tires and I still think so.
I said way back it was the tires and I still think so.
#89
Problem solved also. Any one of you guys had the drivshaft or anything like that workd on?
I upgraded from Tok/Eibach to H&R/AGX this past weekend discoved some other issues with the driveshaft and hub/rotor see here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=136340
I upgraded from Tok/Eibach to H&R/AGX this past weekend discoved some other issues with the driveshaft and hub/rotor see here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=136340
#91
Originally posted by sgmax
Any possible chance that the vibration may be brake-related? I still have the original brakes with 40K miles. Can a warped brake rotor cause highway vibration without pressing the brakes?
Any possible chance that the vibration may be brake-related? I still have the original brakes with 40K miles. Can a warped brake rotor cause highway vibration without pressing the brakes?
#92
Well, I just installed my AGX/GC combo and lowered the Max. I have now traded my vibration at 65-74mph, for a new and improved vibration at 74-82 mph....WTF!!??
I also have to figure out why the rears are squeaking so much...
Otherwise.....it looks SWEET!!!!!
I also have to figure out why the rears are squeaking so much...
Otherwise.....it looks SWEET!!!!!
#93
Originally posted by goldmax
Absolutely...warped rotors will really affect highway vibration. The first time I had my tires rotated and an alignment done the guys at Goodyear drilled down on the lug nuts and warped my rotor hubs. Before taking it in my car was smooth as glass at any speed. After the job the car just shook at high speeds. I finally got so frustrated that I replaced the rotors and the problem cleared up. ALSO...I've had really bad experience with NTB... I bought my last set of tires there and it was an absolute nightmare! They destroyed a rim and never were able to balance the tires correctly. I figure if a shop can't balance a $140 Michelin tire they shouldn't be in the business. I finally found a shop that has the new Hunter "road force" balancing equipment and have had great success using them. The new Hunter machine places weight on the tire as it is balancing it. It can also determine in advance if the tire can be balanced or if it needs to be rotated on the rim first. Finally....no matter where you go...using a real torque wrench on the lug nuts is essential no matter what shop or balancing machine you use!
Absolutely...warped rotors will really affect highway vibration. The first time I had my tires rotated and an alignment done the guys at Goodyear drilled down on the lug nuts and warped my rotor hubs. Before taking it in my car was smooth as glass at any speed. After the job the car just shook at high speeds. I finally got so frustrated that I replaced the rotors and the problem cleared up. ALSO...I've had really bad experience with NTB... I bought my last set of tires there and it was an absolute nightmare! They destroyed a rim and never were able to balance the tires correctly. I figure if a shop can't balance a $140 Michelin tire they shouldn't be in the business. I finally found a shop that has the new Hunter "road force" balancing equipment and have had great success using them. The new Hunter machine places weight on the tire as it is balancing it. It can also determine in advance if the tire can be balanced or if it needs to be rotated on the rim first. Finally....no matter where you go...using a real torque wrench on the lug nuts is essential no matter what shop or balancing machine you use!
#95
Originally posted by ripper7
I guess it depends on which NTB shop you go to because I had a great experience with NTB this weekend. I took my car to Goodyear Sat. to get tires rotated and balance. When I jumped on the highway Sat. evening the car was shaking like crazy, & felt very loose. Obviously they were not open on Sunday so I took the car to NTB. They re-balance the front tires and did an alignment, everything is running smooth now.
I guess it depends on which NTB shop you go to because I had a great experience with NTB this weekend. I took my car to Goodyear Sat. to get tires rotated and balance. When I jumped on the highway Sat. evening the car was shaking like crazy, & felt very loose. Obviously they were not open on Sunday so I took the car to NTB. They re-balance the front tires and did an alignment, everything is running smooth now.
#96
Originally posted by maxnewbie
This is my reply to "over sensitivity" with the Maxima: it shouldn't exist! Period! There are many makes and models out there that one can by and not have to deal with the issue of vibration. The mere fact that we have to spend so much of our time and money trying to get correct tires and perfect balancing and alignments is a sign that this car has an inherent problem with it's suspension. I say "buyer beware"!
This is my reply to "over sensitivity" with the Maxima: it shouldn't exist! Period! There are many makes and models out there that one can by and not have to deal with the issue of vibration. The mere fact that we have to spend so much of our time and money trying to get correct tires and perfect balancing and alignments is a sign that this car has an inherent problem with it's suspension. I say "buyer beware"!
#97
Maxima is touchy on wheel balance
If you haven't had an accident or hit any bad potholes, but slowly found this vibration/shimmy appearing and growing worse on you over time, it's very possibly the tires.
I had this same problem on my '95, where I'd start to feel a vibration at about 70 and it wouldn't go away as I increased my speed. Brakes were fine. It had to do with the balancing. So many things can affect it...
I went in for a balancing--it was worse! The TFT shop just plain screwed up. I went in a second time--ok, but still a high speed shimmy. Went in for a 3rd time--perfect. It's not a constant perfect, as sometimes when the tires are very cold they'll shimmy a little (but it'll go away once they've warmed up).
It's not just Maximas... other cars have this kind of sensitivity (testimony of friends). But it can be a good thing. It helps you spot improper wheel balancing and you can save yourself uneven tire wear by getting it addressed. Of course, when there isn't some other kind of problem at hand.
If a proper wheel balancing has been done, then it can be so many different things as mentioned in this thread so far. To eliminate some of them, you should have a trustworthy expert shop help you with this. If they have a pair of compatible test rims with tires mounted and properly balanced, you can verify that you don't have a rim problem (which can be common). From there other troubleshooting can be done. Your mileage and the kind of driving you do will help clue in an expert as to where to look first.
I had this same problem on my '95, where I'd start to feel a vibration at about 70 and it wouldn't go away as I increased my speed. Brakes were fine. It had to do with the balancing. So many things can affect it...
I went in for a balancing--it was worse! The TFT shop just plain screwed up. I went in a second time--ok, but still a high speed shimmy. Went in for a 3rd time--perfect. It's not a constant perfect, as sometimes when the tires are very cold they'll shimmy a little (but it'll go away once they've warmed up).
It's not just Maximas... other cars have this kind of sensitivity (testimony of friends). But it can be a good thing. It helps you spot improper wheel balancing and you can save yourself uneven tire wear by getting it addressed. Of course, when there isn't some other kind of problem at hand.
If a proper wheel balancing has been done, then it can be so many different things as mentioned in this thread so far. To eliminate some of them, you should have a trustworthy expert shop help you with this. If they have a pair of compatible test rims with tires mounted and properly balanced, you can verify that you don't have a rim problem (which can be common). From there other troubleshooting can be done. Your mileage and the kind of driving you do will help clue in an expert as to where to look first.
#98
I think I might try doing an alignment - isn't it true that aligning the car will uncover many other suspension problems, since they can't align a loose or worn front suspension? Maybe that will uncover something that is causing the vibration, even though several mechanics said there is nothing wrong.
#100
Originally posted by sgmax
I think I might try doing an alignment - isn't it true that aligning the car will uncover many other suspension problems, since they can't align a loose or worn front suspension?
I think I might try doing an alignment - isn't it true that aligning the car will uncover many other suspension problems, since they can't align a loose or worn front suspension?
#101
What's best for balancing? ...the taped on weights of the clip-ons that attach to the edge?
Also, if you think warped rotors are to blame, I would think that vibration would be had at all highway speeds and not just peaked at a given narrow range. I have vibration at 75-80. Sucks because that's where I do most of my highway driving... Rotating tires did not help. Seems to be mainly front drivers side. In any case, I'm getting new rotors up front to see if that helps.
Also, if you think warped rotors are to blame, I would think that vibration would be had at all highway speeds and not just peaked at a given narrow range. I have vibration at 75-80. Sucks because that's where I do most of my highway driving... Rotating tires did not help. Seems to be mainly front drivers side. In any case, I'm getting new rotors up front to see if that helps.
#105
MaxJag, this thread has been about steering wheel vibration at a certain speed range.
Originally posted by MaxJag
What about steering wheel vibration? I don't have car vibration.
Thanks
What about steering wheel vibration? I don't have car vibration.
Thanks
#106
Big Improvement !!
Replaced front struts and got balanced all wheels on a RoadForce machine. Most of the vibration is gone and 60-70 is mostly like gliding except for obviously the road feel.
The front tires had started to develop a feather wear pattern on the outside of the tire, so the suspicion was that the struts were going bad. Right on !! Replaced front struts with original Nissan parts and that improved steering response and when driving over road cracks or bumps. Went on a 20 mile drive, but to my dissapointment the vibration (especially on smooth roads) was still there starting at 60 mph.
I read the previous treads about the Hunter RoadForce and went to the manufacturer web site and used their machine locator :
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
Found a Goodyear shop nearby and $45 later I am much happier.
Hope this helps others working on the same problem.
Now, for the question - I'm thinking that the front rotors should be replaced.
If the rotor was warped, would a resurfacing would still leave it off balance ?
Replaced front struts and got balanced all wheels on a RoadForce machine. Most of the vibration is gone and 60-70 is mostly like gliding except for obviously the road feel.
The front tires had started to develop a feather wear pattern on the outside of the tire, so the suspicion was that the struts were going bad. Right on !! Replaced front struts with original Nissan parts and that improved steering response and when driving over road cracks or bumps. Went on a 20 mile drive, but to my dissapointment the vibration (especially on smooth roads) was still there starting at 60 mph.
I read the previous treads about the Hunter RoadForce and went to the manufacturer web site and used their machine locator :
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
Found a Goodyear shop nearby and $45 later I am much happier.
Hope this helps others working on the same problem.
Now, for the question - I'm thinking that the front rotors should be replaced.
If the rotor was warped, would a resurfacing would still leave it off balance ?
#107
I have the same vibration problems. I got my wheels balanced a couple of months ago and the problem went away but now its back again. I'm going to try this roadforce balancing stuff.
Originally posted by t80
Big Improvement !!
Replaced front struts and got balanced all wheels on a RoadForce machine. Most of the vibration is gone and 60-70 is mostly like gliding except for obviously the road feel.
The front tires had started to develop a feather wear pattern on the outside of the tire, so the suspicion was that the struts were going bad. Right on !! Replaced front struts with original Nissan parts and that improved steering response and when driving over road cracks or bumps. Went on a 20 mile drive, but to my dissapointment the vibration (especially on smooth roads) was still there starting at 60 mph.
I read the previous treads about the Hunter RoadForce and went to the manufacturer web site and used their machine locator :
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
Found a Goodyear shop nearby and $45 later I am much happier.
Hope this helps others working on the same problem.
Now, for the question - I'm thinking that the front rotors should be replaced.
If the rotor was warped, would a resurfacing would still leave it off balance ?
Big Improvement !!
Replaced front struts and got balanced all wheels on a RoadForce machine. Most of the vibration is gone and 60-70 is mostly like gliding except for obviously the road feel.
The front tires had started to develop a feather wear pattern on the outside of the tire, so the suspicion was that the struts were going bad. Right on !! Replaced front struts with original Nissan parts and that improved steering response and when driving over road cracks or bumps. Went on a 20 mile drive, but to my dissapointment the vibration (especially on smooth roads) was still there starting at 60 mph.
I read the previous treads about the Hunter RoadForce and went to the manufacturer web site and used their machine locator :
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
Found a Goodyear shop nearby and $45 later I am much happier.
Hope this helps others working on the same problem.
Now, for the question - I'm thinking that the front rotors should be replaced.
If the rotor was warped, would a resurfacing would still leave it off balance ?
#108
Re: Re: Vibration around 60-70 mph- help!!
I have had my '95 SE for 8 years. Bought it new in July 94. Developed the high speed (70-80) vibration. I Fixed it by replacing the struts. The left front and right rear had no action left. Even though the struts don't leak doesn't mean they are still good. I replaced all 4 at 99,000 miles and mine is super smooth at 130+. My automatic SE is still super smooth with 111,000 miles. I have Michelin XGT H4s on the factory rims.I also had to replace a rim that was bent (left to right) The monroe struts are a lot cheaper than KYB. The factory struts are only good for 100k regardless of what all the postwhores say. I have driven my MAX for over 100k miles, most of the people on the site are having these problems because they value dressup over basic maintenance. Mine is completely stock and has run 15.54 @90.5 mph.[QUOTE]Originally posted by icemax
[B]I have the same problem with my Max -- vibration felt through the steering wheel at 70-80mph range.
[B]I have the same problem with my Max -- vibration felt through the steering wheel at 70-80mph range.
#109
Re: Re: Re: Vibration around 60-70 mph- help!!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by k8wells
[B]I have had my '95 SE for 8 years. Bought it new in July 94. Developed the high speed (70-80) vibration. I Fixed it by replacing the struts. The left front and right rear had no action left. Even though the struts don't leak doesn't mean they are still good. I replaced all 4 at 99,000 miles and mine is super smooth at 130+. My automatic SE is still super smooth with 111,000 miles. I have Michelin XGT H4s on the factory rims.I also had to replace a rim that was bent (left to right) The monroe struts are a lot cheaper than KYB. The factory struts are only good for 100k regardless of what all the postwhores say. I have driven my MAX for over 100k miles, most of the people on the site are having these problems because they value dressup over basic maintenance. Mine is completely stock and has run 15.54 @90.5 mph.
Finally! Someone who has identified what I feel has been the problem all along. I too, feel that the struts are the culprit with this vibration problem I am experiencing. It makes sense. Most mechanics check everything except struts. I mean, they check to see if the struts are leaking and if they are not, they assume the struts are good to go. However, if the struts are worn or weak, I would assume that they would cause some measure of vibration because they can no longer keep the wheel(s) grounded. Therefore, a "hop" would develop during increases in speed. In addition, there is no way that I can have a tire problem. Especially, with 3 different sets of tires and always the same results...vibration! I will be getting mine changed out soon. I love driving my Maxima, but when the steering wheel starts to shake like a leaf, it really take the thrill away of driving it away. Thanks for your post!
[B]I have had my '95 SE for 8 years. Bought it new in July 94. Developed the high speed (70-80) vibration. I Fixed it by replacing the struts. The left front and right rear had no action left. Even though the struts don't leak doesn't mean they are still good. I replaced all 4 at 99,000 miles and mine is super smooth at 130+. My automatic SE is still super smooth with 111,000 miles. I have Michelin XGT H4s on the factory rims.I also had to replace a rim that was bent (left to right) The monroe struts are a lot cheaper than KYB. The factory struts are only good for 100k regardless of what all the postwhores say. I have driven my MAX for over 100k miles, most of the people on the site are having these problems because they value dressup over basic maintenance. Mine is completely stock and has run 15.54 @90.5 mph.
Originally posted by icemax
I have the same problem with my Max -- vibration felt through the steering wheel at 70-80mph range.
I have the same problem with my Max -- vibration felt through the steering wheel at 70-80mph range.
#110
Heres the thing I too changed out the suspension in my 97 MAX and the vibration is still there. I have also been balanced about 5 times and the shake is still there. I am going to try that force balance and see if that works. I hope I can figure it out.
#111
Same here >>
Originally posted by 97GLEMAX
Heres the thing I too changed out the suspension in my 97 MAX and the vibration is still there. I have also been balanced about 5 times and the shake is still there. I am going to try that force balance and see if that works. I hope I can figure it out.
Heres the thing I too changed out the suspension in my 97 MAX and the vibration is still there. I have also been balanced about 5 times and the shake is still there. I am going to try that force balance and see if that works. I hope I can figure it out.
#112
long post (sorry)
Originally posted by 97GLEMAX
Heres the thing I too changed out the suspension in my 97 MAX and the vibration is still there. I have also been balanced about 5 times and the shake is still there. I am going to try that force balance and see if that works. I hope I can figure it out.
Heres the thing I too changed out the suspension in my 97 MAX and the vibration is still there. I have also been balanced about 5 times and the shake is still there. I am going to try that force balance and see if that works. I hope I can figure it out.
so there isn't any pull right or left. When my wife had a wreck two years ago they put on a brand new nissan strut, that was the bad front one. Remember some of those old nissan parts have been sitting in a warehouse since your car was built, buy aftermarket. I hope that helps. Keith
#113
Re: Vibration around 60-70 mph- help!!
Originally posted by sgmax
I have a 98 Maxima, 40K miles, which has an out-of-balance feeling that starts at about 60 mph and gets worse at about 72-74 mph and above. The wheel shakes left and right. At 60-68, the back shakes, then it seems to gradually change to the front as I get more toward 70-72. I first rotated the old tires, that made no difference, rotated them again, same problem. Now I put 4 new tires on and it shakes the same way at the same speed range. I have since rotated the new ones and it is still the same. It is very variable, sometimes it shakes badly and sometimes not at all, almost seems to depend on what road it's on. The firestone place where I got the tires told me it's the alignment, but it really doesn't pull that much. Any suggestions???
I have a 98 Maxima, 40K miles, which has an out-of-balance feeling that starts at about 60 mph and gets worse at about 72-74 mph and above. The wheel shakes left and right. At 60-68, the back shakes, then it seems to gradually change to the front as I get more toward 70-72. I first rotated the old tires, that made no difference, rotated them again, same problem. Now I put 4 new tires on and it shakes the same way at the same speed range. I have since rotated the new ones and it is still the same. It is very variable, sometimes it shakes badly and sometimes not at all, almost seems to depend on what road it's on. The firestone place where I got the tires told me it's the alignment, but it really doesn't pull that much. Any suggestions???
#114
Same problems with my 93SE. Starts at 70, goes to nil at 90.
Replaced the struts with Tokicos. Shimmy still there
but less noticable with firmer struts. The springs are Eibachs.
It also seems to come and go a bit also. Could be a bad rim, I do remember hitting some evil sized pothole awhile back. Not sure if it's limited to one side of the car or not.
Any updates on this?
Tia!
Replaced the struts with Tokicos. Shimmy still there
but less noticable with firmer struts. The springs are Eibachs.
It also seems to come and go a bit also. Could be a bad rim, I do remember hitting some evil sized pothole awhile back. Not sure if it's limited to one side of the car or not.
Any updates on this?
Tia!
#115
Same problems with my 93SE. Starts at 70, goes to nil at 90.
Replaced the struts with Tokicos. Shimmy still there
but less noticable with firmer struts. The springs are Eibachs.
It also seems to come and go a bit also. Could be a bad rim, I do remember hitting some evil sized pothole awhile back. Not sure if it's limited to one side of the car or not.
Any updates on this?
Tia!
Replaced the struts with Tokicos. Shimmy still there
but less noticable with firmer struts. The springs are Eibachs.
It also seems to come and go a bit also. Could be a bad rim, I do remember hitting some evil sized pothole awhile back. Not sure if it's limited to one side of the car or not.
Any updates on this?
Tia!
#116
Guest
Posts: n/a
it must be inherent. struts my ***. if the oem struts are indeed the reason then they are faulty to begin with. i've changed just about all bushings, front support arm (taking it monday for the other), done 5 alignments in the past 3 months, changed all tires, some twice, i forgot how many rebalancings and changed the rotors as well (for another reason).
just before christmas i changed the steering rack. so after all this i am happy to say it IMPROVED. big time.
BUT
i was still not happy. so i went on a test drive with my friend's max (the only other max in area) and it vibrated too. the same as mine. then i went out with somebody's chrysler concorde; it vibrated too just in a different way. a bit less than mine on the whole. just when i was getting over it i got a ride with some friends in a buick riviera. nothing. it was smooth. i figured it was the 5 people in it so the next day i conviced him to do some field tests with me. nothing still. the most bizarre was that his suspension was clunking and cracking over rough terrain - it was defenitely shot. but no vibration of any sort. and that's a '96 with 122k on the odo just about 40k more than me, and being bone stock. never changed struts or bushings on anything. it had me ****ed off.
:hugs his vibrating v6:
but at least all the work done on the car so far has the vibration down to a nonembarassing strenght. i expect it to mostly disappear when i change the other support arm. if it doesn't i am going to weld steel beams all over the frame
just before christmas i changed the steering rack. so after all this i am happy to say it IMPROVED. big time.
BUT
i was still not happy. so i went on a test drive with my friend's max (the only other max in area) and it vibrated too. the same as mine. then i went out with somebody's chrysler concorde; it vibrated too just in a different way. a bit less than mine on the whole. just when i was getting over it i got a ride with some friends in a buick riviera. nothing. it was smooth. i figured it was the 5 people in it so the next day i conviced him to do some field tests with me. nothing still. the most bizarre was that his suspension was clunking and cracking over rough terrain - it was defenitely shot. but no vibration of any sort. and that's a '96 with 122k on the odo just about 40k more than me, and being bone stock. never changed struts or bushings on anything. it had me ****ed off.
:hugs his vibrating v6:
but at least all the work done on the car so far has the vibration down to a nonembarassing strenght. i expect it to mostly disappear when i change the other support arm. if it doesn't i am going to weld steel beams all over the frame
#117
Well, I thought I was the only one complaining the most about this problem and it appears that I am not. I am thoroughly convinced that this is an inherent problem with Maximas. In fact, I recently decided to get the tires balanced using a Hunter Road Force machine. Right off the bat, the manager told me not to expect the shimmy to go completely away since he knew for a fact that Maximas were prone to vibration. However, after getting the tires balanced with the Hunter machine, the ride improved greatly. The shimmy is still there at high speeds (70+) but it's a lot more tolerable.
Let's face it guys, as long as we decide to drive these "vibratiomas", we will have to deal with the "shake, rattle and roll". Get used to it.
Let's face it guys, as long as we decide to drive these "vibratiomas", we will have to deal with the "shake, rattle and roll". Get used to it.
#118
My Story
This morning after the huge snow storm.. i headed on the highway headed to the train station.. as soon as i got to 65 mph.. i got a huge vibration.. enough to scare the **** out of you.. so i pulled off hte highway immediately and checked my lugnuts.. they were all tight and were fine..
I got back on the highway.. up to 50 everythign was fine.. got to 65 mph.. the car was shaking violently.. i immediately pulled off hte highway and headed to the nearest train station.. not one i like to use because the trains run less.. but i had no choice..
Alot of things ran through my head on my way to work.. but i decided i would search the org when i got to work and see what i came up with..
This Thread
I came uop on this thread.. and i must say.. it has some excellent points and trouble shooting for the problem.. my parking brake ceased a couple times.. so i was absolutely sure it was my rear rotors was the problem. I spoke with my cousin and his idea might be bushings.. i was pretty sure it wasn't that.. but i listened to what he had to say.. i decided that i was goign to change my rotors ASAP, and i was sure this would fix the problem.
AIM Conversation
I was talkign to my fellow moderator DanNY telling him about my situation.. it was amazing some of the questions he asked.. i was totally blown away..
me: my car is shaking like crazy.. i checked the org and i think its my rotors..
him: did your car get snowed in?
me: yeah
him: did you fully shovel it out?
me: no
him: did you drive over some ice?
me: yeah... where are you goign with this.. i hope you know.. because i like questions..
him: its one of two things...
him: (1) there is snow in the wheel and its throwing off the balance..
him: (2) you might have knocked off the wheel weight when you backed out of the snow..
me: i really think its my rotors though.. i been reading the org and i think thats it, because my brakes ceased up a couple times..
him: does it vibrate when you hit the brakes?
me: no only when i am at 65 mph.. no braking... its real violent too..
him: then its not your rotors.. its your balancing.. you need to check that out..
me: but i need rotors anyway..
him: rotors are $80 - $100 .. balancing is $20 .. check that first
me: ok i need new tires anyway.. i will do that today... then if that doesn't work i am going after rotors next.
During the Day
I call around town trying to setup appointments to get my tires done.. i even went to the ATM and took out $400 just to get this problem fixed...
Got off the train and back to my car
get on the highway.. 50 mph.. no vibration.. 60 mph.. no vibration.. 70 mph.. no vibration.. 80 mph.. no vibration.. 90 mph.. no vibration..
i repeated this about 5 times.. still no vibration.. i even went home.. then went to the gym.. got on the highway.. same attempt.. same result..
Conclusion
Dan was right.. the snow that was in the wheel well had thrown off the balance and cause the car to shake violently.. i am just amazed at how simple the problem was.. and how the melted snow fixed the problem.
I can't thank DanNY enough for helping me.. and saving me alot and lots of money.. thanks Dan..
I don't know if this will help anyone.. but i just wanted to share this information that maybe some how this might help in the diagnosis for others having this problem.. or help someone with a simular problem that might not get ripped off.. but just let the snow melt
This morning after the huge snow storm.. i headed on the highway headed to the train station.. as soon as i got to 65 mph.. i got a huge vibration.. enough to scare the **** out of you.. so i pulled off hte highway immediately and checked my lugnuts.. they were all tight and were fine..
I got back on the highway.. up to 50 everythign was fine.. got to 65 mph.. the car was shaking violently.. i immediately pulled off hte highway and headed to the nearest train station.. not one i like to use because the trains run less.. but i had no choice..
Alot of things ran through my head on my way to work.. but i decided i would search the org when i got to work and see what i came up with..
This Thread
I came uop on this thread.. and i must say.. it has some excellent points and trouble shooting for the problem.. my parking brake ceased a couple times.. so i was absolutely sure it was my rear rotors was the problem. I spoke with my cousin and his idea might be bushings.. i was pretty sure it wasn't that.. but i listened to what he had to say.. i decided that i was goign to change my rotors ASAP, and i was sure this would fix the problem.
AIM Conversation
I was talkign to my fellow moderator DanNY telling him about my situation.. it was amazing some of the questions he asked.. i was totally blown away..
me: my car is shaking like crazy.. i checked the org and i think its my rotors..
him: did your car get snowed in?
me: yeah
him: did you fully shovel it out?
me: no
him: did you drive over some ice?
me: yeah... where are you goign with this.. i hope you know.. because i like questions..
him: its one of two things...
him: (1) there is snow in the wheel and its throwing off the balance..
him: (2) you might have knocked off the wheel weight when you backed out of the snow..
me: i really think its my rotors though.. i been reading the org and i think thats it, because my brakes ceased up a couple times..
him: does it vibrate when you hit the brakes?
me: no only when i am at 65 mph.. no braking... its real violent too..
him: then its not your rotors.. its your balancing.. you need to check that out..
me: but i need rotors anyway..
him: rotors are $80 - $100 .. balancing is $20 .. check that first
me: ok i need new tires anyway.. i will do that today... then if that doesn't work i am going after rotors next.
During the Day
I call around town trying to setup appointments to get my tires done.. i even went to the ATM and took out $400 just to get this problem fixed...
Got off the train and back to my car
get on the highway.. 50 mph.. no vibration.. 60 mph.. no vibration.. 70 mph.. no vibration.. 80 mph.. no vibration.. 90 mph.. no vibration..
i repeated this about 5 times.. still no vibration.. i even went home.. then went to the gym.. got on the highway.. same attempt.. same result..
Conclusion
Dan was right.. the snow that was in the wheel well had thrown off the balance and cause the car to shake violently.. i am just amazed at how simple the problem was.. and how the melted snow fixed the problem.
I can't thank DanNY enough for helping me.. and saving me alot and lots of money.. thanks Dan..
I don't know if this will help anyone.. but i just wanted to share this information that maybe some how this might help in the diagnosis for others having this problem.. or help someone with a simular problem that might not get ripped off.. but just let the snow melt