RapidMax

iTrader: (2)

When at low speeds my car is making a whining sound and when I open the hood I can smell something burning and today actually saw a little smoke coming out. Its coming from the left side of the engine(if you're standing in front of the car looking at it) right where the alternator is. If it is the alternator, would smoke come out of it. Are there any other signs of a bad alternator? The car drives normal and only has 30k miles.

NickStam

iTrader: (3)

mabye a belt is deteriorating?

rmb

Last I checked, smoking from any part of the engine compartment is bad....

Is the belt slipping/glazed/cracked?

Take the belt off and try and spin the alternator pulley by hand. It might be bearing failure...

-RMB

MAXTOUT

It is probly your alternator. WHat did it smell like?
I had a similar problem and if you let this go you can burn you car up. I found that if you let it go too long, you alternator will catch fire and if you don't have an extinguisher handy, bye bye maxima.

Ted

RapidMax

iTrader: (2)

I'm bringing it tomorrow to a mechanic since it doesn't seem like a simple problem that I can fix. It smells like its electrical so the alternator is probably the problem. I'll find out tomorrow for sure. Thanks for your help

syc

maybe the starter. starter usually goes bad pretty quick. I got fire once from old starter from my 240SX. scary as hell.

Albertt

The whining you hear is because the voltage regulator went bad. The smell? Cooked diodes and capacitors.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Classic symptoms of dying alternator. Mine is dying, too, but more slowly. All I have is the whine, no smoke. SEs have a beefier alternator than the GLE GXE, 110 amp as opposed to 100. Maybe that's why mines dying slowly, it's doing it after 125,000 miles, so it's had its day in the sun.

DW

_DRU_

i dont know much about alternators but i recall reading how some people, with extensive audio systems, would 'wind' the altinator for higher output or longevity, no sure which one. but what does winding the alternator exactly do? would it help in the long run to do anyways?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Winding the alternator makes it put out more amperage, but it also puts more load on the engine, taking away HP. I've browsed the audio forums regularly and never have seen people upgrade their alternators. They've usually put in Optima batteries and huge capacitors to handle the peak loads that their 1000-2000 watt system might require. If you need to upgrade your ALT, I would suggest you simply get an SE alternator. It's a 10 amp upgrade that should suffice. I'm not certiain that they're plug compatible with the GLE/SE system, but they should be considering you can option out a GXE/GLE to have what the SE has. The main electrical difference between the SE and the others is standard fog lights. They take 10 amps by themselves. Hopefully someone reading this can confirm.

DW

Albertt

A 55W bulb will run at 4.5amps on a 12V system. So yes, it's about 10amps for the foglamps.

RapidMax

iTrader: (2)

I brought my car to the mechanic and he tells me this morning that the whining sound is gone and everything is fine. He saw some burn marks on the belts near the alternator but nothing else. He said possibly some water might have gone in there. He also said the alternator is putting out 12.8 instead of the 14 it should be(sorry don't know what the units are) He's still letting it run and checking for the problem but he agrees it's most likely the alternator. Do you think it was just a temporary problem or do I still need a new alterantor?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Man, I think this thread jinxed me. My alternator has been whining for 2 months now. I had brought it to my mechanic to positively identify it, but the sound was too vague to be 100% certain. SO, I left it. A little while later I decide to diagnose. I dis-connect the AC/Alternator belt and start the car. The whine is GONE. 100% confirmed it's alternator. I then order a replacement from Courtesy Nissan. Because I ordered other parts for my car which were out of stock, Cortesy held the order until all the parts came in. No rush, i guess. The whine continues but is very subdued. Today, soon after my post on this thread, I'm driving around, and the whine has taken on a more urgent tone, and its quite a bit louder. I stop the car and pop the hood, I vaguely smell a some bruning. So my ALT is on its last legs. I gotta change it soon. My new ALT is coming this week, so hopefully it will hold up until then.

RapidMax, from my obsevations I would say that if you ALT is not making a massive whine then you've got quit e bit of time. I would go ahead and order the ALT anyway, so when the time comes, you've got everything ready, and you can do it yourself or have yur mechanic do it.

I am wondering, does the alternator dying pose a fire risk?? What happens when it goes kapput?

DW

RapidMax

iTrader: (2)

The whine is completely gone so I have my car back and am going to drive it a few days to see if it comes back. The mechanic says its either the alternator or the air conditioning which is right under the alternator but both are working perfectly fine now. He said possibly some water got in there which cause have caused it which is possible since it was raining heavily right before it happened. Anyway, one of my belts is burned though so I need to get that replaced and hopefully nothing else soon.

Albertt

I posted this back in April, but here's the cut and paste:

"To perform a load test on your alternator, start your engine and connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals. It should read between 12.8VDC and 14.5VDC. Now, turn on the rear window defroster, heater fan on full, headlamps and foglamps, heated seats (if you got them) and even the stereo system if you have an aftermarket setup. THe voltage regulator in the alternator should be able to maintain a voltage of at least 12VDC. If it starts to drop (the rear window defroster and heater fan are high current accessories) steadily, you have a bad alternator...the buzzing is the sound coming from the diodes in the regulator circuitry."

_DRU_

thanks for the info.

RapidMax

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info but now I know it's definitely the alternator because the car isn't starting. I drove the car around a few days to see if the sound came back which it never did but apparantly it wasn't recharging the battery. The radio still works so I'm assuming the battery has a little power left but not enough to start the engine. I've never heard of an alternator going at 30k miles. Anyone here have it go this early?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Odd. If there was a charging problem, your dash lights should have come on. Maybe your battery is the problem, not the alternator.

DW

RapidMax

iTrader: (2)

Do you mean they should have come on while I was driving the car to tell me it wasn't charging or when I was trying to start the car? When I was trying to start the car they did come on.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

The battery light would stay on after the car started.

When I verififed that my ALT was about to go, I dis-connected the AC/ALT belt. The car started fine and the Batt (and I think another light as well, not sure which) stay on. The car ran fine without the alternator at all, but it is now completely dependant on the battery. Since the battery is not being charged it will slowly die. If you blast the radio, turn on the headlights, defogger etc, that battery will die a whole lot quicker.

DW

Albertt

But when I performed the load test, the alternator was incapable fo sustaining at least 12VDC. After I changed the alternator, it was able to sustain a nice healty 13.7VDC constant.

I agree though, you should change batteries, if you've gone about 3-4 years on this one. If it's new, and is a maintenance-type battery, check the water level and fill with distilled water if necessary.

RapidMax

iTrader: (2)

Of course when the mechanic went to go look at the car the car started up on the second try and now is fine. Can't find anything wrong with it. Maybe the tranny wasn't all the way in park and therefore wouldn't let the car start. The alterantor is also fine now. Any ideas how an alternator can whine and burn the alternator belt and then go back to being normal. It's been a few days now and the alternator is fine. Maybe my car is possesed

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Some large debris must have gotten caught in the ALT, which made it run very hot. You stopped the car and the part of the belt that came to a halt on top of the ALT must have burned. Then, somehow the debris got un-stuck and the ALT went back to normal.

I think some debris must have fallen in mine as well. The elevated whine just went away. It still whines, but so quietly you can hardly notice it.

Oh yeah, one other thing, I noticed that in my gage cluster, the BATT light stopped working completely. When I turn the key to ON, the light does not go on, at all. WTF? And when the car is running, no lights whatsoever.

I'm replacing the ALT this weekend anyways, so hopefully my electrical system should go back to normal after that.


DW

Albertt

eskim_77

Hi alls,
I followed most threads regarding to Brake light + Battery light on guage, and conclude it must be my alternator. Those two light just came today during raining and I thought it must be something caused by water because my PIAA fog light doesn't work after heavy pouring the other night.
Although I noticed whining noise at over 60 MPH, but never thought it would be bad alternator. I don't know why my ALT died so quickly despite of good maintenance. I just changed belts couple month of because Nissan mechanic told me to change, so it can prevent failure of alternator. It has only 64K mileage and 97 SE. I have full option with cold package, and don't know what kind of alternator to put in. When I drove to Pepboys, those guage lights are gone, which made me another doubt that perhaps, water that slip into system got dryed out..
Anyway, Pepboys quote me ProStart 125AMP($220 Part + 110 Labor). It sounds fair, because I remember I paid $500 for 240SX few years ago in Goodyear Autoshop. ProStart comes with Lifetime Warranty which sounds very attractive though. But I am not sure about their quality. How are they? Has anyone use them?

By the way,
When I went to CarParts, I found there are three ALT for Maxima.

Alternator, Reman.; 100 Amp; Serpentine 6 groove; For Hitachi systems.; Exc. SE $501.55 $0.00 Each

Alternator, Reman.; 110 Amp; Serpentine 6 groove; For Hitachi systems.; SE $448.48 $0.00 Each

Alternator, Reman. Repl.; 125 Amps Hitachi System, Inter. Reg.
BOSCH AL2374X $387.84 $0.00

Doesn't it suppose to be more expensive for higher AMP? It is very weird that SE's alternator is cheaper than GXE or GLE.

karguy

The normal output from an alternator is 13.6 to 13.8 volts dc. At 12.8v output you are on borrowed time. My guess would be a couple of bad diodes! I would check out the recall to see if you qualify!
Be well!!!!

Larcenist

iTrader: (2)

if your car was made in '97 theres a recall on the alternator. Check with nissan. I suggest you change your alternator. This exact same thing happen to me. The whinning noise..and the smoke from the engine. My car actually started smoking two times. I left my car like this for a few months. Sometimes it the whinning noise went away and sometimes I could hear it. I let it go on for a few months and then one day it just died on me.. and i was stuck. So go get it changed if you're 100% sure its your alternator (which it sounds like it is). I also started experiencing irratic idling as well until i replaced my alternator. Now everythings fine with my car... just a lil' upset that my alternator died before the recall was announced.

eskim_77

Despite of alternator recall, I am just worry if something else cause this brake and charge light come up. Whenever it's rain, those two light come up for 10-20 min. After I test my car with voltage meter, my battery and ALT seems ok.
13V for Battery without running engine.
14V for engine on
15V for AC and Def on.

Does anybody have similar problem without issue on alternator? Where should I check to see if water slip in?

karguy

Those are normal alternator voltages, have you checked your alternator belt for wear and proper tension? The alternator belt might be getting wet when it rains and slipping. Just a thought.
Be well!!!!

tekmode

I had this same problem and only let it go 2 days...BAD IDEA!!!!
the 2nd day i was like man i cant drive this, so when i got home from work i started my car and the fuking alternator caught on fire. i was like gawdaym it. but after a few mins of blowing on it, it went out. had to get new belts, alternator, and starter. cost me 200 under warranty. JUST DUN RUN YOUR CAR WHEN ITS DOING THIS.

eskim_77

My belts should be in good conditions, because I got replaced last Feb. After reading all these threads, I feel like I am becoming paranoid about my car. Today morning, after I open the hood, I smell something was burning, too.. But I couldn't notice any visual smoke

karguy

It really sounds like alternator, the smoke and smell are coming from windings which are over heating. Advance Auto sells a Bosch alternator for around $200 and it is rated at 125 amps. SE's have 110
amp alternator while GXE ans GLE have 100 amp alternators. Before I spent any money I would exhaust all possibilities of getting a free one via the recall.
Be well!!!!

MichMaxFan

I noticed smoke and rpm related whine noise today and unsure of its source. Smoke seems toward the idler pulley but hard to say it's not the alternator.

Ran it without the main belt and no noise. Put on a shorter belt to bypass and rule out the a/c and the noise returned. Ran again with no belt and no noise, but it does seem that MAYBE the smell started again but unsure.

How can I rule out the pulley or alternator? Both seem smooth, but alt is tighter and unsure if that's normal for it or not.

Don't want to burn up my car and start a fire by running it long with the belt on. I have removed the alt before and had it rebuilt some time ago and rather not do it if unnecessary.

Suggestions? I assume it has to be one of the two and nothing else???

PH98I30

My Alt did this.... smoked and actually spit out some sparks. It did not throw a CEL.

MichMaxFan

Mine didn't throw a light, either. Wish I had real gages on this car. I put a long tool up to it and my ear and the noise was evident. Could have left me stranded..(

Took it out, took to a rebuild shop that had rebuilt it previously for me. He said it was showing no charging at all.

Prob be $75 to rebuild it. Said prob was a diode. Should be ready tomorrow.

MichMaxFan

Update: Got my alt back and all is good. I soooo hate doing that job. It could be worse, but it's such a pain squeezing it in and out and lowering the compressor.

maximaxi

Is your valve cover gasket leaking? Because that would make oil drip on your alternator and kill it.

A common sign the the alternator is about to go is when you have the battery light and the p-brake light on.

MichMaxFan

The last time my alt went out the battery light came on, IIRC. This time, no lights.

The valve cover isn't leaking as far as I know, but that's something I will keep in mind. I will double check, but the alt was dry so I really don't think that was it.

CS_AR

I've lost more Nissan alternators from shorted batteries made by Johnson Controls than any other cause. The last shorted battery was 3 months old. I had to completely disconnect the battery in order to jumper the car to start it. After starting the engine I reconnected the battery to drive it home. The parts store said the battery was good but since I am a good customer let me swap it for a smaller but higher priced battery.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

If your alternator didn't have oil and dirt on it then it wasn't a valve cover leak that killed it. When my OEM alternator got fried from a front valve oil leak it was flooded with oil and dirt.