i did a search couldnt find anything. o/d light blinks 16 times when car is first started can anyone explain.

 

16 times, every time? No idea. I think I play with mine too much and as a result, sometimes when I push it in, the button wiggles a little and the OD lights goes on and off until it settles which is really bad cause that means that it is shifting from 4th to 3rd and back a bunch of times (I can feel it).. One of these days I'll get in there and stabilize that puppy.

Yours sounds like a different problem :shrug:

 

check your ECU . Your tranny is trying to tell you something

seriously

 

i think ur car went into fail safe mode, or ur tranny is bout to go out

 

I thought that to, but he WOULD have noticed the extremely hard shifts. I would think. Hmmm... I'll have to see what I can dig up.

 

i just replaced the torque solenoid valve which stopped the hard shifting.

 

look we have a winner. Ok, try and help us help you.

Please bring us up to speed... why did you change the torque solenoid valve? who changed it? are you sure it's in correctly and everything got hooked back up? Check to see if your tranny fluid is low ( guessing here ) assuming it is inside the tranny, and that fluid came out when you changed it/had it changed? did you put fluid back inside of the tranny?

 

forgot to ask, have you checked your ecu for codes. your O/D light blinks to signal you to a problem and then you check your ecu for you TCU codes

hope that made sense

 

You need to extract any code(s) that had tripped the tranny computer. Here, you can find what is actually going on with the transmission. The blinking OD lamp is telling you something is wrong with the transmission!

 

It always happens after I use my bypass switch at the track. I have a switch on that resistor do-dad that makes it shift harder. I just clear the codes and all's good. You may have a bigger problem though.

 

to get trouble codes out of the OD light, you have to first do a test (shifting into different gears, and turning off OD, and back and forth, ect...) and the trouble codes for this is 10 digits long....just a lil input...

 

mine blinks...but i don't have an auto no more...i just simply unplug the solenoid and the o/d switch under the center console...

 

ECU has nothing to do with the A/T.

A/T vehicles have an additional control unit, ATCU. OD off lamp, shifting operations, etc are controlled by the ATCU.

 

REALLY?

Are you sure about that?


Where is the ATCU located?

How do you get codes from it?

I know of the TCU..which is the Transmisson Control Unit
and to get the codes fromt the TCU , you have to do the ECU code check.

Just trying to figure out the ATCU

 

The procedure is more complicated than that but you are right, there is a diagnostic procedure (10 blinks). See FSM.

 

PM Bill - The evil moderator, I'm pretty sure he has the procedure to get the codes from the tranny controller.

 

I was going to ask this very same question. I have a '96 Autotragic GLE w/ 99k on it...but my tranny is only 15k old. (It died on me last year) I get blinking tranny light @ startup, but only every once in a while, and it doesn't seem to blink a set number of times. It will blink for a long time once, and then only a few times three starts later. I'll keep track of it from now on.

I wish I could figure this one out. I checked the ECU for codes and didn't extract ANY tranny codes. I did pull out the vehicle speed sensor code, but that's because my speedo goes in and out sometimes.

I really hope someone has an answer

 

These are instructions I got of google's newsgroup, it for a 90 300zx. Not sure if it will give you any clues to whats going on but it's worth a try.


I'm at home now and am looking at the haynes manual.
__________________________________________________ ________________

95-97
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temp with O/D off.
2. Turn ignition swith to off postiton wait 5 sec.
3. Turn ignition switch to the ACC position.
4. Put O/D to ON.
5. Move shifter to P, turn ignition on but don't start engine.
6. The OD light should come on for about 2 secs.
a. if light does not come on somthing is wrong with the trans. computer.
b. if light comes on proceed to no 7.
7. Turn ignigton key to off.
8. Turn ignition key to on, don't start engnie.
9. Move shift lever to D, trun ignition to off.
10. Put O/D switch to off position.
11. Turn ignition off.
12. Put O/D to off, turn ignition ON wait 2sec and move shifter to the 2 position.
13. Put O/D to on, move shifter to 1 position.
14. Put O/D to off, depress accelerator all the way to floor and release.
15. The computer is now in output mode and will start displaying the codes.



There’s one long flash that signifies the start of the sequence. Following
should be 10 short flashes. Then it
repeats.
Remember the first long flash indcates the start of the sequence followed by
10.

All 10 flashes the same = No error codes read at this time
1st flash longer than others = Revolution sensor is shorted or disconnected.
2nd flash longer than others = Speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected.
3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or
disconnected.
4th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “A” circuit is shorted or
disconnected
5th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “B” circuit is shorted or
disconnected
6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
8th flash longer than others = Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T
control unit power source
circuit is damaged.
9th flash longer than others = Engine revolution signal circuit is shorted or
disconnected
10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected

All the same with no long start flash = Battery low, been disconnected, or
control unit has just been
reconnected.
----

 

Thanks for the info. I'll try it over my lunch break and see what happens. Hopefully no

 

thanks for the info. i reset the engine light and got more codes. ill post the codes later.

 

Ripper7, good job, i have that exact same procedure, but wasnt in the mood for writing all that up for the guy....

 

bags533

I guess the TCU = ATCU. At work, we refer to it as the ATCU (A/T control unit).

The procedure explained by ripper7 sounds similar to the one for the Maxima. It is after all a Nissan. The procedure is outlined in the FSM.

And there are 10 blinks, one blink will be longer than the other to indicate a code.

 

Well, I just got back from lunch, and no explosions. I followed the procedure listed, and it worked. I got one long blink, followed by ten quick blinks. After that it just loops. So it says, "No problems at this time."

I'm wondering if I have to do the procedure after my O/D light blinks when I start the car Because the codes don't reset every time, do they? Who knows? I'll just keep trying. I have a feeling it's my speed sensor that's setting it off.

Good luck to anyone else who's trying!

 

I just edited this post according to the haynes manual.

 

GUYS I JUST HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH MY MAX!!! Does it shift hard? if it doesnt yet it will. There is a device in your engine bay it should be right behind ur intake if it's stock it says unisa jecs something like that it is a device that send an electronic signal to your tranny telling it when and how hard to shift. It is going bad if the od light is blinking. This will make the pressure build up which will make the thing slam HARD into gears i mean real hard. You want to get this fixed soon if it goes on for to long ( My g/f took mine to Pa from ct and it started when she left) when i got the car back when u first start it unless it is warmed up it will stall out no fun. It cost me 340 from nissan to get it fixed.

 

Dropping resistor

 

Where can I pick up one of these? How much does it cost?

 

I have the code line solenoid pressure switch code from the computer...can anyone help me on that???

Chris

 

I had the same problem a while back, I replace the Dropping resistor it was about 80 bucks from what I can remember, But that was not the problem.. I still dont know what problem was... I think it was a lose cable or something, cause I check all the cables and fuces and relays and it work fine after. Week later I had to change the TPS tho

 

I'm having this problem with my Y2K Quest and now I have an idea as to what the deal is.

 

I agree...use the procedure in the FSM to clear the code and reset everything. It will talk you thru the error codes.

 

Where is this FSM procedure?

 

I have been havning the same problem, my o/d blinks 16 times once in a while and when it happens my cruise control doesnt work. I have been asking people, posting on the .org no help. Even my mechanic used a computer to troubleshoot couldnt figure out the problem.

 

I found this thread through search and I think I have the exact same problem. My Maxima is a 1996 QX V6, a European model and the o/d light is marked "S" as in Sport. I've been to the local Nissan mechanic, who read the register in the computer and found no error, but explained that this is related to some problem with connections in the electricity related to the transmission. That told me absolutely nothing, so I'm wondering, have you found a solution to this. My car performs fine, no hard shifts but runs smoothly through all gears.

 

another thing is that if you spin the tires, usually within 2o minutes of shutting off the car, when you start the car up again, it'll flash a whole lot.

 

Well while we are on the subject of tranny problems, I have a kinda weird one that I have been ignoring. When it shifts from 3 to 4 (OD) it feels like it's locking and unlocking real fast like 2 or 3 times. It does not do it any other time. It's not real noticeable so I've been just letting it go figuring it would get worse over time and be easier to diagnose or when I change the tranny fluid it would go away. It does not do it every time and like I said it's not real noticeable, so you know what is going to happen if I take a mechanic for a ride.......it won't do it!! That kind of $hit never happens when you have a mechanic onboard and they think your dreaming.

Anyway anyone ever have anything like this happen to them? what was the diagnosis? I'd like to change the autotragic to a 5 speed anyway and if the auto dies, it's a perfect excuse to tell the ol lady that "hell it will cost just as much to have the auto rebuilt as it will to change it to a 5 speed" so she has no room to *****, especially since I just bought her a freakin Lexus! add STILL have her "OLD" 1999 Merc. Mountaineer (loaded, V-8, nice car) in the driveway ...not being driven, but making the payments, tags,(it's tag time for me...and ALL the cars are in my name, here in Ga. you pay taxes on your birthday...what a great present! Thanks Georgia!) insurance, advelorem (sp?)tax, and payments. Hell it cost me over 1K just for it to sit in the drivway this month. Nobody's even driving it!!!!

What does a 5speed conversion cost, I got a quote for around $1200.00 if you used the used clutch, new clutch is more of course....anyone know if that's a decent price? What level is the difficulty? Can a DYI'er do it? I do have air tools, compressor, jackstands, etc......What is the difficulty factor on a scale of 1 to 10?
Thanks
2Maximas

 

I had a problem recently where I couldn't start my car and the O/D light would flash 16 times. It turned out to be a blown fuse, one in the fuse box located in the engine bay on the driver side. I don't remember exactly which one it was but it was 7.5A and marked either ECCS (or something similar) or the BCM. Replaced it and bam! - everything back to normal. Hope yours is as easy as mine. Good luck.

 

Can somebody help me please?

I just purchased a 1996 Maxima and the car runs fairly smooth..

I ran an ECU scan and received a P0500, P0600 and a P0130 code. I have referenced the codes so I am aware of their indications.

But I did get the flashing O/D light. It happens after I drive the car for about 5 minutes then stop it and start it again.

I did the A/T diagnostic and I get the 2 second O/D light and when I proceed to do the diagnostic.. I get the one long solid flash followed by 10 uniform blinks.

So the test is telling me everything is ok... but I still get the blinking O/D light.

 

this post just set me at ease a bit. It is winter again and to get into my space and what not I have had to spin my tires. The car is shifting fine and fluid is good. so can I relax and just attest the blinking light on start-up to the ice and snow and wheel spinning lately?

 

my OD light blinks everytime i turn the car on... isnt it supposed to??