Another VI installed...
Another VI installed...
Just got my VI today from Japan, courtesy of Mr Cranman's deal (THANKS JOHN!
).
It arrived very well packaged with most items in sealed NISSAN packaging. Everything brand spanking new. All parts were included with the exception of the brake boost vacuum port which I unscrewed off of my other intake manifold. Package was shipped 6/19 and today is 6/22!!! Invoice included. Total package TOP NOTCH, very impressive...
Install was pretty straight forward. Took me about 3 1/2 hours but that doesn't included the Harlan RPM setup that I did earlier. Toughest part was the two bolts in holding the manifold down in back and the two coolant hoses in back--you think the fuel filter change was tough, these two were damn nasty! Anyways, mounted the NAPA vacuum canister in front of the VI where it will be covered. Everything fit perfectly and none of the bolts were difficult to remove. Harlan RPM (in gear box area) ran off coil pack #1 and activates Dawes Devices control solenoid.
Here is a pic with everything but the cover installed:

And one with the complete thing done!

Test drive: very brief but I was easily able to appreciate the pickup after 5k rpm (VI set pt)--it was AWESOME!!! Very similar to the zoom you get from 3k-5k but it just goes all the way to redline instead of going limp... Install was done by me alone so anyone can do it!
Thanks again to Mr Cranman and also props to those who contributed to making the VI a reality Stateside (MardiGrasMax, IanS, in particular)--your efforts are all very much appreciated.
I have a bunch of pics if anyone has something they want to see... I may put up some install pics/tips later. Also, get the damned cover! It hides your vacuum stuff AND also the nasty OEM harness in front! Looks better than before wouldn't you say?
*Highly recommended mod*
).It arrived very well packaged with most items in sealed NISSAN packaging. Everything brand spanking new. All parts were included with the exception of the brake boost vacuum port which I unscrewed off of my other intake manifold. Package was shipped 6/19 and today is 6/22!!! Invoice included. Total package TOP NOTCH, very impressive...
Install was pretty straight forward. Took me about 3 1/2 hours but that doesn't included the Harlan RPM setup that I did earlier. Toughest part was the two bolts in holding the manifold down in back and the two coolant hoses in back--you think the fuel filter change was tough, these two were damn nasty! Anyways, mounted the NAPA vacuum canister in front of the VI where it will be covered. Everything fit perfectly and none of the bolts were difficult to remove. Harlan RPM (in gear box area) ran off coil pack #1 and activates Dawes Devices control solenoid.
Here is a pic with everything but the cover installed:

And one with the complete thing done!

Test drive: very brief but I was easily able to appreciate the pickup after 5k rpm (VI set pt)--it was AWESOME!!! Very similar to the zoom you get from 3k-5k but it just goes all the way to redline instead of going limp... Install was done by me alone so anyone can do it!
Thanks again to Mr Cranman and also props to those who contributed to making the VI a reality Stateside (MardiGrasMax, IanS, in particular)--your efforts are all very much appreciated.
I have a bunch of pics if anyone has something they want to see... I may put up some install pics/tips later. Also, get the damned cover! It hides your vacuum stuff AND also the nasty OEM harness in front! Looks better than before wouldn't you say?
*Highly recommended mod*
Cool
I'd really like to do this mod, but I'd like to see more power gains down low and the set point lowered to 4,250 or so. I don't know the whole mechanics nor what is optimal, but I just wish to see more useable power gains.
Well, as long as I'm thinking about it, I wish Nissan would have made the 5th gear taller and the final drive a little shorter, too. I think the Maxima's tranny is not to the engine's potential.
Well, as long as I'm thinking about it, I wish Nissan would have made the 5th gear taller and the final drive a little shorter, too. I think the Maxima's tranny is not to the engine's potential.
Here's another pic with the stock manifold out. Rear harness pulled left, out of the way. Throttle body and CAI left undisturbed. TB, IAC, EGR guide tube gaskets looked fine and were reused. Stock bolts were likewise fine and reused. I had measured manifold vacuum some months ago and it was 21 inHg at idle. After install today, it was 20 inHg (still in normal range).
BTW, when I connected two Harlans to the TAM screw in the guage cluster, I experienced a similar phenomenon that xHypex reported earlier--that is, the tachometer just goes dead. I now have one harlan working off the TAM (shiftlight) and the other (VI rpm switch) working of coil pack #1 (wht/red lead).
BTW, when I connected two Harlans to the TAM screw in the guage cluster, I experienced a similar phenomenon that xHypex reported earlier--that is, the tachometer just goes dead. I now have one harlan working off the TAM (shiftlight) and the other (VI rpm switch) working of coil pack #1 (wht/red lead).
Originally posted by BBaker025
Next thing to do is get your engine cleaned
.
Next thing to do is get your engine cleaned
.
Re: CAI. yeah, I'll probably keep it, even though I've thought about hybrid intake. If I lose a little up top, then so be it. I love the CAI and besides, I went through a lot of trouble getting that hole in the fender wall, dammit!!!
3 more pics.
Pic showing where I t-pieced into the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator which is right in the area. I used 3/16" tubing in some parts but mainly, one I.D. smaller (sorry, forget the actual #) worked best for most of the vacuum hose.

The NAPA vacuum canister, which has a built-in one way check valve, is fed manifold vacuum. It then feeds the control solenoid which opens when the Harlan RPM switch is activated.

Lastly, just wanted to clarify what I meant when I mentioned that I reused the brake boost vacuum port. Just unscrew it off your stock manifold and screw it in the hole circled in black.

Some install tips:
-consider Li grease in appropriate places on the rod that holds the butterfly valves ie. where it rotates inside the manifold. It may be smooth now, but the parts are brand new!
-consider silicone adhesive or thread lock on the screws that hold the butterfly valves in. You can ill-afford these things to make their way loose.
-try using a small 1/4" socket wrench with a 12mm socket for the back manifold bolts and also the EGR guide tube bolts. Space is tight back there.
-be careful when taking out the EGR guide tube bolts. The metal gasket drops down easily and the bolts have fat washers that can also fall down, never to be found in the engine bay.
-the above crap falls down into your engine bay and so do other sockets, tools, bolts, etc---make sure you have a good magnet antenna.
-when installing the new VI, line up the upper-to-lower manifold gasket first, then mount the new VI, aligning the VI ports, but only loosely tighten the left and right bolts just enough to keep the ports in correct position over the gasket. You will need to thread the two rear manifold retention bolts before you tighten all the front bolts.
-a relay used between the Harlan and the solenoid will effectively convert a switched ground into a switched 12V activation line. The ground for the solenoid can be had from one of two grounding screws located in front of the VI (will be covered up by the VI cover).
-it may be helpful to remove the black cylinder that the cruise control cable is attached to (held in by two 10mm bolts to the firewall), to give yourself some room back there allow easy manifold installation.

The NAPA vacuum canister, which has a built-in one way check valve, is fed manifold vacuum. It then feeds the control solenoid which opens when the Harlan RPM switch is activated.

Lastly, just wanted to clarify what I meant when I mentioned that I reused the brake boost vacuum port. Just unscrew it off your stock manifold and screw it in the hole circled in black.

Some install tips:
-consider Li grease in appropriate places on the rod that holds the butterfly valves ie. where it rotates inside the manifold. It may be smooth now, but the parts are brand new!
-consider silicone adhesive or thread lock on the screws that hold the butterfly valves in. You can ill-afford these things to make their way loose.
-try using a small 1/4" socket wrench with a 12mm socket for the back manifold bolts and also the EGR guide tube bolts. Space is tight back there.
-be careful when taking out the EGR guide tube bolts. The metal gasket drops down easily and the bolts have fat washers that can also fall down, never to be found in the engine bay.
-the above crap falls down into your engine bay and so do other sockets, tools, bolts, etc---make sure you have a good magnet antenna.
-when installing the new VI, line up the upper-to-lower manifold gasket first, then mount the new VI, aligning the VI ports, but only loosely tighten the left and right bolts just enough to keep the ports in correct position over the gasket. You will need to thread the two rear manifold retention bolts before you tighten all the front bolts.
-a relay used between the Harlan and the solenoid will effectively convert a switched ground into a switched 12V activation line. The ground for the solenoid can be had from one of two grounding screws located in front of the VI (will be covered up by the VI cover).
-it may be helpful to remove the black cylinder that the cruise control cable is attached to (held in by two 10mm bolts to the firewall), to give yourself some room back there allow easy manifold installation.
Yes, those rear clamp bolts are a PIA, aren't they...?
Good job, and that cover looks great! My supplier is unable to get them, so I will be ordering one from Cranman VERY soon.
IanS
Good job, and that cover looks great! My supplier is unable to get them, so I will be ordering one from Cranman VERY soon.
IanS
Glad to see everything worked out, and thanks for the pictures
If you want I can add your pictures/thoughts to my page for the VI and maybe we can get a decent how-to going. I should be helping Murphy_TX_Mike install his VI next week, and my VI should be here in about ~4 weeks (I opted for sea freight with Keven97SE
).
-hype
If you want I can add your pictures/thoughts to my page for the VI and maybe we can get a decent how-to going. I should be helping Murphy_TX_Mike install his VI next week, and my VI should be here in about ~4 weeks (I opted for sea freight with Keven97SE
).-hype
Originally posted by Mishmosh
BTW, when I connected two Harlans to the TAM screw in the guage cluster, I experienced a similar phenomenon that xHypex reported earlier--that is, the tachometer just goes dead. I now have one harlan working off the TAM (shiftlight) and the other (VI rpm switch) working of coil pack #1 (wht/red lead).
BTW, when I connected two Harlans to the TAM screw in the guage cluster, I experienced a similar phenomenon that xHypex reported earlier--that is, the tachometer just goes dead. I now have one harlan working off the TAM (shiftlight) and the other (VI rpm switch) working of coil pack #1 (wht/red lead).
I will probably be adding a shift ligh soon and I have a question about how you wired the rpm switch to the TAM screw. Did you try to run two tach input wires off of the TAM screw? Or did you try to splice the tach input wire for the rpm switch into the tach input wire for the shift light so only one wire would be connected to the TAM screw?
Thanks!
P.S. when's the dyno!?!?!?!?
Re: What did it cost?
Originally posted by dirtsmax
All said and done, what was the total cost of the project?
Also can Cranman get these things whenever he wants? I mean do we have to wiat for a group deal or can I order one whenever I have the funds?
All said and done, what was the total cost of the project?
Also can Cranman get these things whenever he wants? I mean do we have to wiat for a group deal or can I order one whenever I have the funds?
IanSW has a GD in progress sourcing from the Middle East. Cost is similar to Mr Cranman's deal with sourcing from Japan. Mr Cranman has the advantages of the cover option ($50 extra, but well worth it), two shipping options, and convenience of ordering any time. Fulfilment times: Cranman ~6-8 weeks (6 1/2 weeks for me), IanSW ~8-12weeks (maybe less). Both are honest joes. I can say about Mr Cranman's source that the business is very thorough in packaging, completeness, and shipping (including customs handling)--I think their specialty is exporting Japanese auto parts internationally. Payment options for both are less than ideal (ie. no credit card) but acceptable/understandable.
Re: What did it cost?
Originally posted by dirtsmax
All said and done, what was the total cost of the project?
Also can Cranman get these things whenever he wants? I mean do we have to wiat for a group deal or can I order one whenever I have the funds?
All said and done, what was the total cost of the project?
Also can Cranman get these things whenever he wants? I mean do we have to wiat for a group deal or can I order one whenever I have the funds?
Everyone else-
Did Cranman send you a tracking number or anything or did the package just show up? I should be getting mine soon. I hope. I ordered on the 5/20.
Dave
Re: Re: What did it cost?
Originally posted by Dave B
Everyone else-
Did Cranman send you a tracking number or anything or did the package just show up? I should be getting mine soon. I hope. I ordered on the 5/20.
Dave
Everyone else-
Did Cranman send you a tracking number or anything or did the package just show up? I should be getting mine soon. I hope. I ordered on the 5/20.
Dave
My BAD: I actually ordered 5/9/02, so it actually took 6 1/2 weeks or so to get in my hands. Don't worry Dave, I'm sure yours will be ready soon. I know given the RB fiasco that all of us are a little worried....
Originally posted by speedtrip
Nice Job! The variable intake manifold really finishes off the VQ for us 4th gens.
I will probably be adding a shift ligh soon and I have a question about how you wired the rpm switch to the TAM screw. Did you try to run two tach input wires off of the TAM screw? Or did you try to splice the tach input wire for the rpm switch into the tach input wire for the shift light so only one wire would be connected to the TAM screw?
Nice Job! The variable intake manifold really finishes off the VQ for us 4th gens.
I will probably be adding a shift ligh soon and I have a question about how you wired the rpm switch to the TAM screw. Did you try to run two tach input wires off of the TAM screw? Or did you try to splice the tach input wire for the rpm switch into the tach input wire for the shift light so only one wire would be connected to the TAM screw?
I throw in my thoughts here as well.
Packaging was great. Looked like I went down to Nissan and picked up all the parts myself. Updates were very good from Cranman. He always gave any info he had on when it was going to be shipped and all that. I haven't had the time to get the whole vacuum system up and running but I can say, with this thing tied open and flooring it, it straight gets up and scoots! Very worthwhile mod, both in time and money! Thanks John!
Now if I can get some track time and dyno time squeezed in here somewhere!
Now if I can get some track time and dyno time squeezed in here somewhere!
Re: I throw in my thoughts here as well.
Originally posted by BSwithTF
Packaging was great. Looked like I went down to Nissan and picked up all the parts myself. Updates were very good from Cranman. He always gave any info he had on when it was going to be shipped and all that. I haven't had the time to get the whole vacuum system up and running but I can say, with this thing tied open and flooring it, it straight gets up and scoots! Very worthwhile mod, both in time and money! Thanks John!
Now if I can get some track time and dyno time squeezed in here somewhere!
Packaging was great. Looked like I went down to Nissan and picked up all the parts myself. Updates were very good from Cranman. He always gave any info he had on when it was going to be shipped and all that. I haven't had the time to get the whole vacuum system up and running but I can say, with this thing tied open and flooring it, it straight gets up and scoots! Very worthwhile mod, both in time and money! Thanks John!
Now if I can get some track time and dyno time squeezed in here somewhere!
aww the wait is gonna kill me.Ryan
Write up for vaccuum
I was wondering if anyone could help with a write up for wiring up the RPM switch, vacuum solenoid etc.
I am a little in the dark and need some help.
Thanks in advance!
DL
P.S. The only write up I saw was on Iansw's page.
I am a little in the dark and need some help.
Thanks in advance!
DL
P.S. The only write up I saw was on Iansw's page.
I made a parts write-up a long time ago similiar to Ian's.
http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters/hype/mrc/mevi.htm
Tonight I added a how-to section with help from the very meticilous Mishmosh
http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters/hype/mrc/mevi2.htm
Hope that helps.
-hype
http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters/hype/mrc/mevi.htm
Tonight I added a how-to section with help from the very meticilous Mishmosh

http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters/hype/mrc/mevi2.htm
Hope that helps.
-hype
Re: What did it cost?
Originally posted by dirtsmax
All said and done, what was the total cost of the project?
Also can Cranman get these things whenever he wants? I mean do we have to wiat for a group deal or can I order one whenever I have the funds?
All said and done, what was the total cost of the project?
Also can Cranman get these things whenever he wants? I mean do we have to wiat for a group deal or can I order one whenever I have the funds?
-John
Looks awesome!!!
Originally posted by Mishmosh
My first Harlan (shiftlight) was connected of the TAM screw in the guage cluster. When I went to connect the second Harlan up to the same line, the tach needle just died. This was implemented by a single wire connected to the TAM screw, running down to the gearbox where I hooked up both the inputs of the Harlan. Either one run singly off this wire was fine. I then just hooked it (Harlan#2) up to coil pack #1 via a wire through the firewall.
My first Harlan (shiftlight) was connected of the TAM screw in the guage cluster. When I went to connect the second Harlan up to the same line, the tach needle just died. This was implemented by a single wire connected to the TAM screw, running down to the gearbox where I hooked up both the inputs of the Harlan. Either one run singly off this wire was fine. I then just hooked it (Harlan#2) up to coil pack #1 via a wire through the firewall.
Looks great...can't wait to see some quarter mile times. I need to make a trip to the track like a 4 hour trip (that is how far it is to a 1/4 track and back).
-John
I don't know of anyone.
Originally posted by 97GLE
Yeah, has anyone gotten thier car inspected yet?
Yeah, has anyone gotten thier car inspected yet?
-John
Re: I don't know of anyone.
Originally posted by Mr Cranman
But, I don't understand why it would effect emissions. I mean they have these on cars over in Britian and there emission test are a lot more strict then ours hear in the states. If anything this probalby helps your car run more efficient!!!
-John
But, I don't understand why it would effect emissions. I mean they have these on cars over in Britian and there emission test are a lot more strict then ours hear in the states. If anything this probalby helps your car run more efficient!!!
-John
This hsould not affect emmissions whatsoever.
When I get my Emissions test, I'm just going to disconnect the RPM switch from the relay anyway, then I'm pretty much the same as stock. I think they'll worry about my SC alot more anyway.
I used to sell them, and will probably be doing another Group Deal later this year. $560, plus you need to purchase the RPM Switch and vacuum system yourself.
www.cyberhub.net/intake
IanS
When I get my Emissions test, I'm just going to disconnect the RPM switch from the relay anyway, then I'm pretty much the same as stock. I think they'll worry about my SC alot more anyway.
I used to sell them, and will probably be doing another Group Deal later this year. $560, plus you need to purchase the RPM Switch and vacuum system yourself.
www.cyberhub.net/intake
IanS
Re: Re: I don't know of anyone.
Originally posted by 97GLE
Understood, I didn't realize they were on European cars. I thought they were from countries that didn't have very strict emissions. Now I don't understand why this wasnt on our cars to begin with.
Understood, I didn't realize they were on European cars. I thought they were from countries that didn't have very strict emissions. Now I don't understand why this wasnt on our cars to begin with.
Actually, according to Nissan's Middle East repot for 1998, it was released then. So you could say mid-1997, as that's when the 1998 models came out.
But it's on the 1998's, not the 1997's.
IanS
But it's on the 1998's, not the 1997's.
IanS
Re: Re: What did it cost?
John,
Thanks!! It is great to be able to get this thing whenever I have the funds which could be a while. BUt I really want this thing! I don't race my car but I like having the power when I want it. I have a couple of other things to do before this mod. THanks again!
Thanks!! It is great to be able to get this thing whenever I have the funds which could be a while. BUt I really want this thing! I don't race my car but I like having the power when I want it. I have a couple of other things to do before this mod. THanks again!
Originally posted by Mr Cranman
All said and done your looking at probably around $625 or so. I can order them whenever you feel like ordering one...the only thing is it takes about 4 weeks for my supplier to get them in and then he has to ship it to you. The other problem is the price might vary depending on the currency exchange rate. Because when I first bought mine the US $1 was worth $130 yen...when I did the deal it was only worth $125 yen, and currently it is like 123.5 yen. So, that can change the price by approximately 5-20 dollars. Just to be forewarned. But, when your interested just let me know and I'll be more than glad to get the ball rolling.
-John
All said and done your looking at probably around $625 or so. I can order them whenever you feel like ordering one...the only thing is it takes about 4 weeks for my supplier to get them in and then he has to ship it to you. The other problem is the price might vary depending on the currency exchange rate. Because when I first bought mine the US $1 was worth $130 yen...when I did the deal it was only worth $125 yen, and currently it is like 123.5 yen. So, that can change the price by approximately 5-20 dollars. Just to be forewarned. But, when your interested just let me know and I'll be more than glad to get the ball rolling.
-John
About $520
Originally posted by RAZER
How much $ and where can i get one???
How much $ and where can i get one???
-John




Good job with the install, I hope to get one when I get the funds!