jdunagan

Roadside shop overfilled my oil which built up pressure, and leak started around the pressure sensor, soaked boot and lower control arm bushings. Got great price on boot replacement and lower control arm (bushings not sold separate) from FinishLine in So LA.

Asked my regular mechanic back east and was told that the pressure does build up over time in the crank case.

jdunagan

Oh and my mechanic said that keeping the rpms low does help to keep pressure down...

mzmtg

iTrader: (11)

That's why we have a PCV valve and a crankcase breather...

puremax

serious

dedek

so will it be ok to overfilled?
I couldn't see the line of the oil on my car and kept putting more oil..and now I can see it..and it's too much already..

what should I do?

69CHARGER_RT

Uummmm........Drain it

MaxJag

Unscrew the plug a little but not all the way until it starts to trickle. Then tighten and check the oil level. Repeat if necessary.

rmb

That's why you should do your own oil. It only takes 10 minutes.

The real problem with overfilling by more than a quart or so is oil aeration where the oil gets whipped up from the crankshaft and other assorted madly moving bits into a frothy mess. The oil pump then starts to choke, unable to pump the frothy mess as well as a liquid, and usually the top of the motor dies first. Valves and cams are first to go....

Pressure's got nothing really to do with it....

-RMB

rmb

And why pray tell did they replace your lower control arm when it got oil on it? The bushings certainly wouldn't be damaged from that alone.....

-RMB

Gary95

Does anyone here have a hard time judging the oil level on their dipstick? I've never seen this on any other car I've owned--everytime I check the oil level on my Maxima, no matter if it has just been filled or if it is near oil change time, the oil reading is always over the maximum.

Of course, I wipe the dipstick first before dipping it back in for a check. I've tried putting in/out very slowly, very quickly, different angles, etc... still doesn't give me a proper reading. It's always been this way, and I'm quite sure it isn't being overfilled (how could dozens of oil change shops, including Nissan, all be wrong?).

dedek

I really have a hard time checking the oil level...I tried to check it many times, but still could see the reading. That's why I THINK I overfilled or perhaps not...well...will try to check it again today..

Speebs

iTrader: (2)

I have the same problem (with 2 different engines, too). I cannot for the life of me figure out why it's impossible to read. I imagine that it's bad business, too, for those under warrantee- if people think they have oil when they don't and damage their engine, Nissan would have to replace it!

HOW DO YOU GET A GOOD READING?

davey6693

No doubt about it, the oil dipstick sucks. The only way I can check mine after changing the oil is by running the engine for a few minutes to make what is actually IN the oilpan turn a darker colour. Then I insert/reinsert the dipstick at least 10 times, cleaning it off each time. That way you'll start to remove the oil which is stuck in the dipstick tube and which screws up the readings. After that I can usually tell where the dark oil ends.

If you can leave it overnight and check before starting the car in the morning, that's probably best.

rmb

Just drain, replace filter. Add back what the manual says, check for leaks for a few days and don't worry about it. A little over the full mark is fine.

Once it's almost down to "low" or the bottom of the hash marks add another quart.

Even if you're a full quart overfilled it's certainly not going to kill anything. More than a quart I'd start draining.

-RMB

party_boy

of the location of the dipstick in relation to the drainage from the block back to the resovoir. After you start the car give it like 10-20 min for it to settle OR just check it the next morning. That way the oil from the top of the engine can settle back in your resovoir and not drip on your dipstick when you are checking the oil.

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Drain all the oil out, remove the filter. Add 4 quarts. Conrats, your oil is now full.

dedek

Hahaha...very funny..
and very helpfull
Thank you

KINGMAX

Actually it is 4 1/4 Qt. of oil. Rmb is right do like the manual says, run the engine until it gets warm and check it AT LEAST 30 min. later. I have never had problems with oil readings on any car, and rmb is also right when it is at the bottom hash it means your a quart low or in between hashes 1/2 Qt. low etc. I don't know about having a full quart overfill 'cause your engine will burn it off(smoke from your hood my ex did this and her front end was billowing smoke). When you change your oil put what the manual says(4 1/4Qt.) and like said before check for leaks from the filter(make sure the old gasket came off as this could cause leaking) and from the drain plug.

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Really? Nissan list our oil capacity as 3.9 quarts, so 4 1/4 would be overfilling it... I'm a manager of an oil lube shop, we change oil on maximas and I30's 4-5 times a day, along with 60-70 other cars... Not trying to knock your ideas, Ive just never had a Max take 4 1/4...

jdunagan

The Lower control arm:
John the mech. at Finishline showed me the bushing; it was desinigrating while the other dry side was just a little cracked. I assume that it is due to the fact it was oil soaked. Yes quite soaked.

However that didn't get rid of the shaking under hard braking that I orginally took it in for that was definitely caused by the oil leak. Once I took the front left wheel off myself it was obvious that the front left rotor was scored. Black marks are bad right? - I was in San Fransisco right before the shaking showed up. My assumption is that the oil and broken boot cv joint grease managed to get a little lube on my front right rotor and those times I thought the hills were fooling me into using the ABS, I was actually was stopping my car with one front brake, overheating the rotor severely.

I replace the rotors and pads myself at the beach on July5th in 40 minutes. Parts $99 including CA sales tax. Not bad for a newbie, I think.

*** If it isn't the overfilled oil that caused the failure of the oil pressure sensor then perhaps I should change the subject to "Change your oil pressure sensor around 125k"

156k,
Joseph

ay5800

iTrader: (2)

It doesnt make sense to give this number but nissan clearly states 4 1/4 quarts with a filter change.
check the manual

v3rtex7740

Well F me. I've been putting in 5 quarts every 3k miles for the last 100k miles.



(holy sh-t, 2002, I am the necromancer.)

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

zombie thread!

mahanddeem

enough said

cashoit

FSM say 4-1/4 qt if u changing with filter.

3.9 qt if not changing w/ filter.

Jus put 4 and some change and u good.

IBTL

shadetreemech77

I've put in 5 1/2 quarts in (5 quarts oil, 1/2 quart Marvel Mystery oil) with not a lick of problems. And does the 98 have a better dipstick than the early 4th gens? My 98 has a traditional flat dipstick, but the 3L in my Mercury Villager (it has a Nissan engine FYI) has an unreadable piece of metal on the end of a cable that is impossible to make out. Maybe you could swap out for a better dipstick if it's a case of lousy dipstick design?

richard_85zxt

I opened this up, looked at the date and started hearing thriller playing in my head as I read through all this. As for the Villager the VG30 engine uses that kind of dip stick, takes some getting used to but not to hard once you are used to it.

As for the claim of every oil change being over the fill mark on the dip stick, that is very possible. The factory recommended amount is based on a new engine with no deposits. Your engine could have plenty of deposits in it, sludge, and lets face it, going to a shop they drain it quick, not allowing every drop of oil out so that is also more in the engine that the amount they add. Then the simply add the amount they are supposed to for that car and call it good.
Put 1/3 can of seafoam in the crank case a day or 2 before you change your oil, allow the engine to rev more than usual, basically push the engine to break deposits loose with the help of the seafoam. Drain your oil leaving the oil cap off to allow faster and easier drain, and let it sit longer while draining to get more out. Then replace oil with almost the recommended about and check it, keep an eye on it as you fill and get it to the fill mark. I usually do sea foam every 4-5 oil changes to make sure to clear out excess deposits. There are other brands than seafoam, I just like that one and have had great luck with it.

maxed_out_99

ok, well i put 4 and 1/4 and its always on the line ive found that the best way to check the oil on these stupid sticks is to spill, fill, start, wait and then flip the stick over (the handle will be real close to the fan) and then read it this way the oil drainin back from the head doesnt screw you reading. THINK WITH YOUR DIPSTICK JIMMY!

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

dipsticks are are pretty dumb- they are not dead-on accurate, they are just an approximate. Ever called someone a dipstick before?

shadetreemech77

I've been wrenching around for a while and never considered the obvious point of deposits displacing the oil capacity. Why did I never think about that? But that's a good point, if your engine has a lot of deposits (especially since these engines can reach several 100k miles) it's something to remember.

I prefer Marvel Mystery oil for cleaning the engine out, since it is a slower acting product (I can put it in each oil change with no harm) but I have used Seafoam and Berryman's b-12 chemtool with sucess. the B-12 is a bit brutal, though. I put it in a hot engine once and the truck didn't want to start very well until it cooled off a bit.

Celired

iTrader: (2)

I always use the whole 5 quarts in mine and I've never had any problems. Now unless you're overfilling it to like 6+ quarts I don't think you'll have a problem. I choose to do my own oil though :P

MaximaMashing

mine is a little over filled but have no preoblems.

xsmooth69x

drain it out until its at the right level.....

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

A new oil filter and exactly 4 quarts of oil, level comes out perfect every time.

maxed_out_99

60% of the time it works every time

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

is this thread serious, put 4.25 qt and check oil next morning or a couple hrs later after engine is cold to get correct reading

cashoit

I jus did mine with pennzoil high mileage 10-30, and fram tough guard filter. Used 4.75 quarts and no problems. I bought a 5 quart bottle and jus left a lil oil in it. put the used oil back in, came out all black and nasty and was about 4.25 quarts. WOuld have been more but i spilled some oil on the ground when i removed the the old filter

98Maximo

I, like many of you, buy a 5qt jug every time I change the oil and I always have .75qt left. Anyways, my question is, is it OK to combine oil from different bottles if they are different brands? For example 10w-30 Valvoline High Mileage with Castrol High Mileage 10w-30. I believe one is a synthetic blend and the other isn't.

So far I have them separate but I hate having a closet full of barely full jugs.

cashoit

lol how da heck to u dispose of the old oil if u not using the old jugs. I see u in AZ, jus dump in the desert eh lol.

Jus kiddin around...naw i wdnt mix em. U prolly can cuz oil is oil as long as it da same grade/viscosity, but i never done it before so i dont wanna steer u wrong. Dont mix synthitc and conventional..they totally different.

98Maximo

Haha every 2-3 trips to Autozone for new oil i take my used oil container (~15qts) with me and drain it.

I know not to mix synthetic and conventional, but since the valvoline is a synthetic blend (I've heard it's about 10-15% synthetic), would it really matter? I guess I was just hoping to be able to combine them all for 1 oil change, since I tend to buy whichever high mileage oil is on sale that month. Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol, etc.