Car trouble: engine won't run higher than 2,000 RPM ??
07-09-2002, 07:27 AM
#1
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Car trouble: engine won't run higher than 2,000 RPM ??
So I'm on my way for a relaxing vacation weekend when my car bogs down and is ready to die on the bridge. I was going along fine, about 50 MPH and the car started to drag, I thought it was going to be the alternator, so I shut everything off and hoped to be able to roll off the bridge.
Well the car never died and I pulled it off the ramp. It felt like there was a plastic bag wrapped around the intake and the motor was getting no air. But everything is fine and I can operate the throttle with my hand under the hood, but it just glugs and stutters once you try to go above 2000 rpm. So, I take it back to the house at 25-30 MPH the whole time because I cant go any faster. It sat all weekend and starts and runs fine now. But I only drove it to work about a mile.
That being said the Engine Light has been on for about a month, and I checked it and it was some speed sensor or something. I turned it off and it's now back on. I have to get the codes and see what it says now, but does anyone have any clue what's going on here? Thanks, sorry for the long post.
Well the car never died and I pulled it off the ramp. It felt like there was a plastic bag wrapped around the intake and the motor was getting no air. But everything is fine and I can operate the throttle with my hand under the hood, but it just glugs and stutters once you try to go above 2000 rpm. So, I take it back to the house at 25-30 MPH the whole time because I cant go any faster. It sat all weekend and starts and runs fine now. But I only drove it to work about a mile.
That being said the Engine Light has been on for about a month, and I checked it and it was some speed sensor or something. I turned it off and it's now back on. I have to get the codes and see what it says now, but does anyone have any clue what's going on here? Thanks, sorry for the long post.
07-09-2002, 07:32 AM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 590
Re: Car trouble: engine won't run higher than 2,000 RPM ??
Originally posted by Bernie Lomax
So I'm on my way for a relaxing vacation weekend when my car bogs down and is ready to die on the bridge. I was going along fine, about 50 MPH and the car started to drag, I thought it was going to be the alternator, so I shut everything off and hoped to be able to roll off the bridge.
Well the car never died and I pulled it off the ramp. It felt like there was a plastic bag wrapped around the intake and the motor was getting no air. But everything is fine and I can operate the throttle with my hand under the hood, but it just glugs and stutters once you try to go above 2000 rpm. So, I take it back to the house at 25-30 MPH the whole time because I cant go any faster. It sat all weekend and starts and runs fine now. But I only drove it to work about a mile.
That being said the Engine Light has been on for about a month, and I checked it and it was some speed sensor or something. I turned it off and it's now back on. I have to get the codes and see what it says now, but does anyone have any clue what's going on here? Thanks, sorry for the long post.
So I'm on my way for a relaxing vacation weekend when my car bogs down and is ready to die on the bridge. I was going along fine, about 50 MPH and the car started to drag, I thought it was going to be the alternator, so I shut everything off and hoped to be able to roll off the bridge.
Well the car never died and I pulled it off the ramp. It felt like there was a plastic bag wrapped around the intake and the motor was getting no air. But everything is fine and I can operate the throttle with my hand under the hood, but it just glugs and stutters once you try to go above 2000 rpm. So, I take it back to the house at 25-30 MPH the whole time because I cant go any faster. It sat all weekend and starts and runs fine now. But I only drove it to work about a mile.
That being said the Engine Light has been on for about a month, and I checked it and it was some speed sensor or something. I turned it off and it's now back on. I have to get the codes and see what it says now, but does anyone have any clue what's going on here? Thanks, sorry for the long post.
You've got to pull the codes before we really know anyting. Could be the TPS or something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. Check the exhaust too for any crimps in the piping....
-RMB
07-09-2002, 08:33 AM
#6
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Originally posted by Bernie Lomax
Well I wonder what that 2-8 one is all about. What's an MAF going to cost me? I could replace that myself no problem if we can confirm thats the problem right? But my car started and ran fine this morning.
Well I wonder what that 2-8 one is all about. What's an MAF going to cost me? I could replace that myself no problem if we can confirm thats the problem right? But my car started and ran fine this morning.
I'll check my Haynes manual when I go home at lunch.
07-09-2002, 11:46 AM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,857
I'll agree that the symptoms are that of a failed MAFS. I too had that problem. Easy fix though - it's really plug 'n' play. You can pick up on from www.car-part.com for around $40-$300. As long as you have a 4th gen I don't think it matters what year MAFS you get. But before you go and buy one there is a way to test the MAFS. In my case it didn't set off any CEL but I tested the MAFS with the following procedure and sure enough it was bad.
It is very easy to test the MAFS all you need is a voltmeter or multimeter to check the voltage while engine is off and key is at "ON" position. You'll need to backprobe terminal one (left most connector) on the plug. It should be less than 1.0 volt. With the engine idling at operating temp is should be 1.0-1.7 volts. With the engine running at ~2,500rpm it should be 1.5-2.1 volts. You should observe a linear voltage rise in response to increses in engine rpm up to about 4k. If voltage is within spec you can also check the power and ground circuits.
It is very easy to test the MAFS all you need is a voltmeter or multimeter to check the voltage while engine is off and key is at "ON" position. You'll need to backprobe terminal one (left most connector) on the plug. It should be less than 1.0 volt. With the engine idling at operating temp is should be 1.0-1.7 volts. With the engine running at ~2,500rpm it should be 1.5-2.1 volts. You should observe a linear voltage rise in response to increses in engine rpm up to about 4k. If voltage is within spec you can also check the power and ground circuits.
07-09-2002, 07:13 PM
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 536
Originally posted by Ravq
It is very easy to test the MAFS all you need is a voltmeter or multimeter to check the voltage while engine is off and key is at "ON" position. You'll need to backprobe terminal one (left most connector) on the plug. It should be less than 1.0 volt. With the engine idling at operating temp is should be 1.0-1.7 volts. With the engine running at ~2,500rpm it should be 1.5-2.1 volts. You should observe a linear voltage rise in response to increses in engine rpm up to about 4k. If voltage is within spec you can also check the power and ground circuits.
It is very easy to test the MAFS all you need is a voltmeter or multimeter to check the voltage while engine is off and key is at "ON" position. You'll need to backprobe terminal one (left most connector) on the plug. It should be less than 1.0 volt. With the engine idling at operating temp is should be 1.0-1.7 volts. With the engine running at ~2,500rpm it should be 1.5-2.1 volts. You should observe a linear voltage rise in response to increses in engine rpm up to about 4k. If voltage is within spec you can also check the power and ground circuits.
This afternoon, I drove the car about 30 miles with absolutely no problem. So now I don't know what to do. I'm going to drop it at the garage in the morning and have my guy look at it. I'll let him run all those tests and see whats up. I'll let you know what he finds.
How many miles was that MAF used SKEELO34 incase I need it. ?
07-09-2002, 09:04 PM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,857
Originally posted by Bernie Lomax
Thank you for the response, but that went way over my head.
This afternoon, I drove the car about 30 miles with absolutely no problem. So now I don't know what to do. I'm going to drop it at the garage in the morning and have my guy look at it. I'll let him run all those tests and see whats up. I'll let you know what he finds.
How many miles was that MAF used SKEELO34 incase I need it. ?
Thank you for the response, but that went way over my head.
This afternoon, I drove the car about 30 miles with absolutely no problem. So now I don't know what to do. I'm going to drop it at the garage in the morning and have my guy look at it. I'll let him run all those tests and see whats up. I'll let you know what he finds.
How many miles was that MAF used SKEELO34 incase I need it. ?
07-15-2002, 11:44 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 536
Can't find a speed sensor, even the dealer. What to do? 
THIS IS INSANE. Dealer 1 tells me they can order the part its $24. Dealer 2 tells me 97 Max does not have a speed sensor. Amazing.
Update: Dealer 3 has it in stock $23.26 Clowns.
THIS IS INSANE. Dealer 1 tells me they can order the part its $24. Dealer 2 tells me 97 Max does not have a speed sensor. Amazing.
Update: Dealer 3 has it in stock $23.26 Clowns.
07-15-2002, 03:22 PM
#17
I cant tell whether you are manual or auto, but I know there is a sensor on the manual. The plug for it is in the back of the tranny, closer to the fuel filter and to the left of the clutch hydraulic lines.
I hope it takes care of the problem.
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