delayed acceleration from stop
08-07-2002, 08:13 AM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 131
Originally posted by soundmike
perhaps a vacuum is created in the stock airbox causing the engine to choke momentarily?
perhaps a vacuum is created in the stock airbox causing the engine to choke momentarily?
If it comes back with higher temps I wonder if a tranny cooler would take care of the problem.
08-07-2002, 08:25 AM
#43
This thread is going everywhere. The title is about delayed acceleration from stop, now it's about hesitation once in gear?
Anyway, perhaps some of you guys are experiencing a transmission slip.
Anyway, perhaps some of you guys are experiencing a transmission slip.
08-07-2002, 09:28 AM
#45
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 58
Originally posted by soundmike
This thread is going everywhere. The title is about delayed acceleration from stop, now it's about hesitation once in gear?
Anyway, perhaps some of you guys are experiencing a transmission slip.
This thread is going everywhere. The title is about delayed acceleration from stop, now it's about hesitation once in gear?
Anyway, perhaps some of you guys are experiencing a transmission slip.
08-07-2002, 09:39 AM
#46
I'm sorry, i should have been specific. I meant, since there seems to be two discussions on this thread
1) Hesitation from a stop
2) Hesitation while rolling (e.g. what i meant by "in-gear")
If it's the first then a lot of things could be the cause - heat soak, drive by wire, mounts, etc.
If it's the second then it might be a vacuum in the stock airbox, transmission slippage and what not.
1) Hesitation from a stop
2) Hesitation while rolling (e.g. what i meant by "in-gear")
If it's the first then a lot of things could be the cause - heat soak, drive by wire, mounts, etc.
If it's the second then it might be a vacuum in the stock airbox, transmission slippage and what not.
Originally posted by Aggie Jurist
Ummm, mike, since all who are reporting this have auto trannys, we are all in gear when this happens even when starting from a stop.
Ummm, mike, since all who are reporting this have auto trannys, we are all in gear when this happens even when starting from a stop.
One dealer was nice enough to eliminate engine mounts as the problem, unless the design is inherently flawed.
08-07-2002, 11:54 AM
#48
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
Originally posted by soundmike
I'm sorry, i should have been specific. I meant, since there seems to be two discussions on this thread
1) Hesitation from a stop
2) Hesitation while rolling (e.g. what i meant by "in-gear")
If it's the first then a lot of things could be the cause - heat soak, drive by wire, mounts, etc.
If it's the second then it might be a vacuum in the stock airbox, transmission slippage and what not.
I'm sorry, i should have been specific. I meant, since there seems to be two discussions on this thread
1) Hesitation from a stop
2) Hesitation while rolling (e.g. what i meant by "in-gear")
If it's the first then a lot of things could be the cause - heat soak, drive by wire, mounts, etc.
If it's the second then it might be a vacuum in the stock airbox, transmission slippage and what not.
08-07-2002, 12:03 PM
#49
People may call it different things, this is how i call the phenomenon when you're at a stop and the temperature in your engine bay just goes up several degrees.
The air in the bay is basically "soaked" in heat which, obviously, accounts for hotter engine bay air - which is then sucked in by the intake. Such a thing is normally observed with POP chargers than anything else.
The air in the bay is basically "soaked" in heat which, obviously, accounts for hotter engine bay air - which is then sucked in by the intake. Such a thing is normally observed with POP chargers than anything else.
Originally posted by suds1
What is heat-soak?
What is heat-soak?
08-08-2002, 06:46 AM
#50
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
Originally posted by 2K2SE
It's been 10-20 degrees cooler here in VA the past couple of days and I haven't had the hesitation once! Try as I might, I cannot get the hesitation from stop. Coincidence? We'll see once the temps go up next week.
It's been 10-20 degrees cooler here in VA the past couple of days and I haven't had the hesitation once! Try as I might, I cannot get the hesitation from stop. Coincidence? We'll see once the temps go up next week.
2K2SE your exactly right. This morning it got down to about 65 degrees for some reason. My car did not hesitate one time and I drove about 30 miles around town.
I bought my car in late spring. I guess this might explain why I didn't have the problem for the first week I had it. The temperature has not been below 85 degrees (even at night) since a week after I bought my car.
I don't understand what the heat could be affecting to cause this problem. What soundmike said about heat-soak makes sense too because it is worst after you have been sitting at red light for a while. I may run by the dealership this afternoon and tell the service manager about this. I am curious if the problem will start back once it warms up this afternoon.
08-08-2002, 06:51 AM
#51
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 58
Originally posted by suds1
Alright this is wierd...
2K2SE your exactly right. This morning it got down to about 65 degrees for some reason. My car did not hesitate one time and I drove about 30 miles around town.
I bought my car in late spring. I guess this might explain why I didn't have the problem for the first week I had it. The temperature has not been below 85 degrees (even at night) since a week after I bought my car.
I don't understand what the heat could be affecting to cause this problem. What soundmike said about heat-soak makes sense too because it is worst after you have been sitting at red light for a while. I may run by the dealership this afternoon and tell the service manager about this. I am curious if the problem will start back once it warms up this afternoon.
Alright this is wierd...
2K2SE your exactly right. This morning it got down to about 65 degrees for some reason. My car did not hesitate one time and I drove about 30 miles around town.
I bought my car in late spring. I guess this might explain why I didn't have the problem for the first week I had it. The temperature has not been below 85 degrees (even at night) since a week after I bought my car.
I don't understand what the heat could be affecting to cause this problem. What soundmike said about heat-soak makes sense too because it is worst after you have been sitting at red light for a while. I may run by the dealership this afternoon and tell the service manager about this. I am curious if the problem will start back once it warms up this afternoon.
Trey
08-08-2002, 06:20 PM
#52
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 13
Re: delayed acceleration from stop
Originally posted by Aggie Jurist
Just returned from dealer and am looking for some help. Am experiencing a problem where my 2002 Max waits a split second before accellerating from a dead stop. Started about 3 months ago. Took the technician out with me b/c they said they couldn't duplicate it. Right on cue, it started acting up. Technician acknowledged the delay (also drove it himself to verify) but is at a loss to explain.
Any ideas gang?
Thanks.
Trey O'Neale
charlotte, NC
Just returned from dealer and am looking for some help. Am experiencing a problem where my 2002 Max waits a split second before accellerating from a dead stop. Started about 3 months ago. Took the technician out with me b/c they said they couldn't duplicate it. Right on cue, it started acting up. Technician acknowledged the delay (also drove it himself to verify) but is at a loss to explain.
Any ideas gang?
Thanks.
Trey O'Neale
charlotte, NC
08-08-2002, 06:43 PM
#53
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
Re: Re: delayed acceleration from stop
Originally posted by egham45
I have the same problem on mine, and I'm pretty sure it is the front engine mount, in you look at the front engine mount you will see there is a small gap on top, I put a small piece of heater hose in that gap and it was gone, but it seems like you feel a bits more engine vibration at idle.
I have the same problem on mine, and I'm pretty sure it is the front engine mount, in you look at the front engine mount you will see there is a small gap on top, I put a small piece of heater hose in that gap and it was gone, but it seems like you feel a bits more engine vibration at idle.
I am willing to try anything at this point.
08-10-2002, 08:49 AM
#54
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Posts: 13
Re: Re: Re: delayed acceleration from stop
[QUOTE]Originally posted by suds1
Can you post pics? I am not really that mechanically inclined and don't even know where the engine mounts are.
I am willing to try anything at this point. [/QUOTE
can not figure out how add pics
Can you post pics? I am not really that mechanically inclined and don't even know where the engine mounts are.
I am willing to try anything at this point.
[/QUOTEcan not figure out how add pics
08-12-2002, 07:20 PM
#55
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 60
SoundMike May be onto something here....
Okay, I've been reading the threads on drive by wire delay, delayed acceleration, hesitation, etc.
I'm a 6sp SE and I've experienced hesitation/delay in gear (now I've experienced in all gears at different times when at first that was not the case) and I have also experienced hesitation from a stop.
However, I would concur on the heat temp issue. On cool days (the few we've had for the past couple of months), the car ran awesome. but on hot days, horrible when that intermittent hesitation issue rose its ugly head. The past couple of days for me were absolutely the most annoying yet. It got really bad which prompted me to go back and search threads again on this issue to what progress has been made in its diagnosis.
Regarding the heat issue and "heat soak": I've noticed that my Maxima generates a LOT OF HEAT. When you stand next to the doors you can just feel the heat oozing out from what seems like from under the car (either side of the car at the front doors). I haven't searched threads yet nor have asked this question but has anyone else noticed the high amount of heat generated from their Max? I mean this could be normal and not even related just new to me as it certainly doesn't seem to be affected the car unless it a contributor to "heat soak" and that heat soak is a contributor to delayed acceleration.
On one occasion I had someone at a drive through window comment on the heat. When they opened the window to take my money they were taken aback. The fact that it was already a hot day didn't help any. My wife also commented on it one day also. I've watched my temp gauge and there is no abnormal behavior there.
I add this bit of information to this thread because I'm wondering whether it could be that the Max in general is generating a higher amount of heat and so these really hot days can be causing "heat soak" in the engine bay causing the acceleration delay?
Am I on to something here folks? Or am I a Max owner with the delayed acceleration while also being that lonely Max with the high heat generation.
I will also add that this heat can be felt on cool days though not as hot as on hotter days obviously. I first noticed it on an occasion at a drive through and then a couple of other standing situations when I had my windows down. I normally drive with the windows up but even if they were down, you can't necessarily tell while in motion.
I know everyone is trying to pin down "possible" causes so your input will be greatly appreciated. And SoundMike, what do you think?
Regards,
I'm a 6sp SE and I've experienced hesitation/delay in gear (now I've experienced in all gears at different times when at first that was not the case) and I have also experienced hesitation from a stop.
However, I would concur on the heat temp issue. On cool days (the few we've had for the past couple of months), the car ran awesome. but on hot days, horrible when that intermittent hesitation issue rose its ugly head. The past couple of days for me were absolutely the most annoying yet. It got really bad which prompted me to go back and search threads again on this issue to what progress has been made in its diagnosis.
Regarding the heat issue and "heat soak": I've noticed that my Maxima generates a LOT OF HEAT. When you stand next to the doors you can just feel the heat oozing out from what seems like from under the car (either side of the car at the front doors). I haven't searched threads yet nor have asked this question but has anyone else noticed the high amount of heat generated from their Max? I mean this could be normal and not even related just new to me as it certainly doesn't seem to be affected the car unless it a contributor to "heat soak" and that heat soak is a contributor to delayed acceleration.
On one occasion I had someone at a drive through window comment on the heat. When they opened the window to take my money they were taken aback. The fact that it was already a hot day didn't help any. My wife also commented on it one day also. I've watched my temp gauge and there is no abnormal behavior there.
I add this bit of information to this thread because I'm wondering whether it could be that the Max in general is generating a higher amount of heat and so these really hot days can be causing "heat soak" in the engine bay causing the acceleration delay?
Am I on to something here folks? Or am I a Max owner with the delayed acceleration while also being that lonely Max with the high heat generation.
I will also add that this heat can be felt on cool days though not as hot as on hotter days obviously. I first noticed it on an occasion at a drive through and then a couple of other standing situations when I had my windows down. I normally drive with the windows up but even if they were down, you can't necessarily tell while in motion.
I know everyone is trying to pin down "possible" causes so your input will be greatly appreciated. And SoundMike, what do you think?
Regards,
Originally posted by soundmike
People may call it different things, this is how i call the phenomenon when you're at a stop and the temperature in your engine bay just goes up several degrees.
The air in the bay is basically "soaked" in heat which, obviously, accounts for hotter engine bay air - which is then sucked in by the intake. Such a thing is normally observed with POP chargers than anything else.
People may call it different things, this is how i call the phenomenon when you're at a stop and the temperature in your engine bay just goes up several degrees.
The air in the bay is basically "soaked" in heat which, obviously, accounts for hotter engine bay air - which is then sucked in by the intake. Such a thing is normally observed with POP chargers than anything else.
08-13-2002, 12:37 AM
#56
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 608
i think the heat soak thing sounds totally plausible, ThomBlaze2k2SE.
i was having the same problem last summer with my 2kSEAuto, but the dealership could never nail it down, as it would never perform for me on cue. of course, i always drove down to the dealership first thing in the morning...
since i've moved to a milder climate (only 70-80 in the summer, not 90-110) i haven't noticed it happening again. i'd actually forgotten about it until i read the post.
the 25,000 dollar question is, what can be done about it, if anything?
i was having the same problem last summer with my 2kSEAuto, but the dealership could never nail it down, as it would never perform for me on cue. of course, i always drove down to the dealership first thing in the morning...
since i've moved to a milder climate (only 70-80 in the summer, not 90-110) i haven't noticed it happening again. i'd actually forgotten about it until i read the post.
the 25,000 dollar question is, what can be done about it, if anything?
08-13-2002, 08:46 AM
#57
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
I am thinking it is definently that the heat-soak is the problem. I wonder if an intake (berk, etc.) would solve this problem. Maybe if it can suck air from a different place and get more of it the problem would not happen? The only thing is I don't want an intake with the oiled filter due to everyone having MAF problems. Does anyone know if you can get a paper filter that will fit on one of these intake setups?
08-13-2002, 06:19 PM
#58
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 13
Re: SoundMike May be onto something here....
Originally posted by ThomBlaze2k2SE
Okay, I've been reading the threads on drive by wire delay, delayed acceleration, hesitation, etc.
I'm a 6sp SE and I've experienced hesitation/delay in gear (now I've experienced in all gears at different times when at first that was not the case) and I have also experienced hesitation from a stop.
However, I would concur on the heat temp issue. On cool days (the few we've had for the past couple of months), the car ran awesome. but on hot days, horrible when that intermittent hesitation issue rose its ugly head. The past couple of days for me were absolutely the most annoying yet. It got really bad which prompted me to go back and search threads again on this issue to what progress has been made in its diagnosis.
Regarding the heat issue and "heat soak": I've noticed that my Maxima generates a LOT OF HEAT. When you stand next to the doors you can just feel the heat oozing out from what seems like from under the car (either side of the car at the front doors). I haven't searched threads yet nor have asked this question but has anyone else noticed the high amount of heat generated from their Max? I mean this could be normal and not even related just new to me as it certainly doesn't seem to be affected the car unless it a contributor to "heat soak" and that heat soak is a contributor to delayed acceleration.
On one occasion I had someone at a drive through window comment on the heat. When they opened the window to take my money they were taken aback. The fact that it was already a hot day didn't help any. My wife also commented on it one day also. I've watched my temp gauge and there is no abnormal behavior there.
I add this bit of information to this thread because I'm wondering whether it could be that the Max in general is generating a higher amount of heat and so these really hot days can be causing "heat soak" in the engine bay causing the acceleration delay?
Am I on to something here folks? Or am I a Max owner with the delayed acceleration while also being that lonely Max with the high heat generation.
I will also add that this heat can be felt on cool days though not as hot as on hotter days obviously. I first noticed it on an occasion at a drive through and then a couple of other standing situations when I had my windows down. I normally drive with the windows up but even if they were down, you can't necessarily tell while in motion.
I know everyone is trying to pin down "possible" causes so your input will be greatly appreciated. And SoundMike, what do you think?
Regards,
On a hot day it makes the engine mount softer and the front mount moves up you need to fill that gap at the top of the mount, a piece of 5/8 heater hose works. I did this to my 2002 auto sc and it works
Okay, I've been reading the threads on drive by wire delay, delayed acceleration, hesitation, etc.
I'm a 6sp SE and I've experienced hesitation/delay in gear (now I've experienced in all gears at different times when at first that was not the case) and I have also experienced hesitation from a stop.
However, I would concur on the heat temp issue. On cool days (the few we've had for the past couple of months), the car ran awesome. but on hot days, horrible when that intermittent hesitation issue rose its ugly head. The past couple of days for me were absolutely the most annoying yet. It got really bad which prompted me to go back and search threads again on this issue to what progress has been made in its diagnosis.
Regarding the heat issue and "heat soak": I've noticed that my Maxima generates a LOT OF HEAT. When you stand next to the doors you can just feel the heat oozing out from what seems like from under the car (either side of the car at the front doors). I haven't searched threads yet nor have asked this question but has anyone else noticed the high amount of heat generated from their Max? I mean this could be normal and not even related just new to me as it certainly doesn't seem to be affected the car unless it a contributor to "heat soak" and that heat soak is a contributor to delayed acceleration.
On one occasion I had someone at a drive through window comment on the heat. When they opened the window to take my money they were taken aback. The fact that it was already a hot day didn't help any. My wife also commented on it one day also. I've watched my temp gauge and there is no abnormal behavior there.
I add this bit of information to this thread because I'm wondering whether it could be that the Max in general is generating a higher amount of heat and so these really hot days can be causing "heat soak" in the engine bay causing the acceleration delay?
Am I on to something here folks? Or am I a Max owner with the delayed acceleration while also being that lonely Max with the high heat generation.
I will also add that this heat can be felt on cool days though not as hot as on hotter days obviously. I first noticed it on an occasion at a drive through and then a couple of other standing situations when I had my windows down. I normally drive with the windows up but even if they were down, you can't necessarily tell while in motion.
I know everyone is trying to pin down "possible" causes so your input will be greatly appreciated. And SoundMike, what do you think?
Regards,
On a hot day it makes the engine mount softer and the front mount moves up you need to fill that gap at the top of the mount, a piece of 5/8 heater hose works. I did this to my 2002 auto sc and it works
08-14-2002, 05:09 AM
#60
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 369
egham45 On a hot day it makes the engine mount softer and the front mount moves up you need to fill that gap at the top of the mount, a piece of 5/8 heater hose works. I did this to my 2002 auto sc and it works
08-14-2002, 09:29 AM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 780
Originally posted by 2K2SE
We're down to 80-85 from 95+. This morning it was about 70 when I drove to work.
We're down to 80-85 from 95+. This morning it was about 70 when I drove to work.
Overall my whole car felt really sluggish. I actually had to run the AC which didn't help either.
08-14-2002, 03:14 PM
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 402
OK, it seems we're getting somewhere on nailing "something" down...
It looks like the motor mounts are getting the attention now and not drive by wire...but the drive-by-wire just seemed to make more sense didn't it?
I haven't had the cooler weather here in TX to test the temperature theory...I got the car late May and it was already 75-80+...
I wonder how this will turn out...somewhere out there is a solution that's what pi$$es you off!
It looks like the motor mounts are getting the attention now and not drive by wire...but the drive-by-wire just seemed to make more sense didn't it?
I haven't had the cooler weather here in TX to test the temperature theory...I got the car late May and it was already 75-80+...
I wonder how this will turn out...somewhere out there is a solution that's what pi$$es you off!
08-14-2002, 03:18 PM
#64
As far as heat-soaking goes. I've had the car since August 2001 and as physics dictate it the car will get slower with the heat.
Which means, i can't 100% say that the temperature is what causes this problem. The twist to my theory? Well, because the entire stock airbox is made of plastic and gets the air from outside the engine bay, so there's not much of a heat soak there. Unless you have an underhood intake (e.g. POP intake) there's not much of "soaking" going on.
As far as the engine producing that much more heat, i'm sure it is doing so. Otherwise, why would Nissan put in a bigger grill on the 2k2's? Remember, they're cost-cutting in quite a lot of ways - i'm sure if they could get away with using the pre-2k2's smaller grille they'd have done it already.
Which means, i can't 100% say that the temperature is what causes this problem. The twist to my theory? Well, because the entire stock airbox is made of plastic and gets the air from outside the engine bay, so there's not much of a heat soak there. Unless you have an underhood intake (e.g. POP intake) there's not much of "soaking" going on.
As far as the engine producing that much more heat, i'm sure it is doing so. Otherwise, why would Nissan put in a bigger grill on the 2k2's? Remember, they're cost-cutting in quite a lot of ways - i'm sure if they could get away with using the pre-2k2's smaller grille they'd have done it already.
08-14-2002, 07:13 PM
#66
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
Re: heater hose mod
Originally posted by egham45
I have a picture but can not figure out how to add in, the help is no help to me,
I have a picture but can not figure out how to add in, the help is no help to me,
08-14-2002, 09:36 PM
#67
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 60
Ah I see. Well at least all the heat isn't my imagination. Why does the engine generate so much more heat over the previous Max because of larger displacement and power?
I'm kinda bummed a bit to because my oil light and check engine light started coming on today just behind all these record heat days and the stalling *ugh*. It really sucks. How about today, I'm on a incline sitting next to a Camry Solara. I know my engine is not just generally down due to heat but I know I got this hesitation problem. Nah I wasn't gonna race but he wanted some and just a little push and under normal conditions the max would have pulled off without a problem or effort. Not today folks. I gotta roll out real nice like and feel the max choke up hill with the rpm's struggling to climb.
This is sickening. I've only had my Max since May 27th. About 2 1/2 months. I've previously own a 93 GXE and a 90 SE so while I'm not soured on the Max or gonna say Nissan sucks...this is no way for a brand new car with new technology to be acting.
*sigh*
I'm kinda bummed a bit to because my oil light and check engine light started coming on today just behind all these record heat days and the stalling *ugh*. It really sucks. How about today, I'm on a incline sitting next to a Camry Solara. I know my engine is not just generally down due to heat but I know I got this hesitation problem. Nah I wasn't gonna race but he wanted some and just a little push and under normal conditions the max would have pulled off without a problem or effort. Not today folks. I gotta roll out real nice like and feel the max choke up hill with the rpm's struggling to climb.
This is sickening. I've only had my Max since May 27th. About 2 1/2 months. I've previously own a 93 GXE and a 90 SE so while I'm not soured on the Max or gonna say Nissan sucks...this is no way for a brand new car with new technology to be acting.
*sigh*
Originally posted by soundmike
As far as heat-soaking goes. I've had the car since August 2001 and as physics dictate it the car will get slower with the heat.
Which means, i can't 100% say that the temperature is what causes this problem. The twist to my theory? Well, because the entire stock airbox is made of plastic and gets the air from outside the engine bay, so there's not much of a heat soak there. Unless you have an underhood intake (e.g. POP intake) there's not much of "soaking" going on.
As far as the engine producing that much more heat, i'm sure it is doing so. Otherwise, why would Nissan put in a bigger grill on the 2k2's? Remember, they're cost-cutting in quite a lot of ways - i'm sure if they could get away with using the pre-2k2's smaller grille they'd have done it already.
As far as heat-soaking goes. I've had the car since August 2001 and as physics dictate it the car will get slower with the heat.
Which means, i can't 100% say that the temperature is what causes this problem. The twist to my theory? Well, because the entire stock airbox is made of plastic and gets the air from outside the engine bay, so there's not much of a heat soak there. Unless you have an underhood intake (e.g. POP intake) there's not much of "soaking" going on.
As far as the engine producing that much more heat, i'm sure it is doing so. Otherwise, why would Nissan put in a bigger grill on the 2k2's? Remember, they're cost-cutting in quite a lot of ways - i'm sure if they could get away with using the pre-2k2's smaller grille they'd have done it already.
08-15-2002, 09:36 AM
#68
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 60
Update to my post above...
Update to my post above...
Ok guys, tell me if I'm crazy and off base. I'm definitely not an auto internals guy...
I mentioned above that my oil light and check engine light started coming on yesterday. To be specific, the oil light was never static. It would flicker here or there on braking, launching, whatever which of course leads me to believe the oil is getting low but not dangerous. I just hit abou 7500 miles so its time for my scheduled maintenance and had my oil levels taken care of at my last scheduled maintenance I did about around 3000 or so miles. when I last check my levels all was fine. Okay, with that said here's the story.
I went by the gas station and dropped a bottle of oil into the engine because I couldn't get a real reading without have to wait for the oil the settle back down and didn't have time to wait. After I dropped that oil in there the car ran great. I was hitting the gas quickly and suddenly trying to get that hesistation back and couldn't do it. I think I barely got one in 5 gear during this test. I also was check the pick up at 70 mph and at 80 mph in both 5th and 6th gears. My max in particular rpm's at 2000 in 6th at 70mph and 3000 in 5th at 70mph. It rpms at 2500 in 6th at 80mph and 3500 in 5th at 80mph. Not sure if this is the norm but I did about 3 or 4 cruises to make sure my average was right. Okay, my test was to check the pull in each gear scenario I just described and it pulled as I have come accustomed to under "normal" conditions. I'm obviously discounted a bit because of the heat. Cool days always have great "whee!" factor.
I got to work and let the car sit for about 20 minutes and when to check the actual oil levels and to my surprise the dip stick was barely registering any oil at all.
So what I'm wondering is whether or not this was a contributor or not. Could it be that the oil level sensor is way out of touch with actual levels and so the max is running on lower oil levels than what it really should be running at to pull strong? If so than could everyone's oil levels be down to far and not know it? I know most of you guys are very knowledgeable and something so simple as oil levels are probably items you all checked off long time ago so I'm not trying to insult anyone intelligence here. Just doing more grasping. I was just kinda shocked at my oil levels and then at performance performance gains of the car after I added just that one bottle without even filling up.
I guess between the hesitation, the CD speaker issues, the vibration or fluttering (or whatever you call it) in the forward dash I hear now, I just wanting answers. Strangely though after I added the oil that vibration noise seemed to go away to. It occurs most where the air is one. ...maybe I'm being wishful in my thinking and all of this is just coincidence and I'll experience the problems again soon.
...but I'm gonna stay optimistic!
If this keeps up I'm seriously gonna consider trading in for the New Max when it gets and take the loss on the 2002. (small print: assuming the all new Max is a must have. )
Ok guys, tell me if I'm crazy and off base. I'm definitely not an auto internals guy...
I mentioned above that my oil light and check engine light started coming on yesterday. To be specific, the oil light was never static. It would flicker here or there on braking, launching, whatever which of course leads me to believe the oil is getting low but not dangerous. I just hit abou 7500 miles so its time for my scheduled maintenance and had my oil levels taken care of at my last scheduled maintenance I did about around 3000 or so miles. when I last check my levels all was fine. Okay, with that said here's the story.
I went by the gas station and dropped a bottle of oil into the engine because I couldn't get a real reading without have to wait for the oil the settle back down and didn't have time to wait. After I dropped that oil in there the car ran great. I was hitting the gas quickly and suddenly trying to get that hesistation back and couldn't do it. I think I barely got one in 5 gear during this test. I also was check the pick up at 70 mph and at 80 mph in both 5th and 6th gears. My max in particular rpm's at 2000 in 6th at 70mph and 3000 in 5th at 70mph. It rpms at 2500 in 6th at 80mph and 3500 in 5th at 80mph. Not sure if this is the norm but I did about 3 or 4 cruises to make sure my average was right. Okay, my test was to check the pull in each gear scenario I just described and it pulled as I have come accustomed to under "normal" conditions. I'm obviously discounted a bit because of the heat. Cool days always have great "whee!" factor.
I got to work and let the car sit for about 20 minutes and when to check the actual oil levels and to my surprise the dip stick was barely registering any oil at all.
So what I'm wondering is whether or not this was a contributor or not. Could it be that the oil level sensor is way out of touch with actual levels and so the max is running on lower oil levels than what it really should be running at to pull strong? If so than could everyone's oil levels be down to far and not know it? I know most of you guys are very knowledgeable and something so simple as oil levels are probably items you all checked off long time ago so I'm not trying to insult anyone intelligence here. Just doing more grasping. I was just kinda shocked at my oil levels and then at performance performance gains of the car after I added just that one bottle without even filling up.
I guess between the hesitation, the CD speaker issues, the vibration or fluttering (or whatever you call it) in the forward dash I hear now, I just wanting answers. Strangely though after I added the oil that vibration noise seemed to go away to. It occurs most where the air is one. ...maybe I'm being wishful in my thinking and all of this is just coincidence and I'll experience the problems again soon.
...but I'm gonna stay optimistic!
If this keeps up I'm seriously gonna consider trading in for the New Max when it gets and take the loss on the 2002. (small print: assuming the all new Max is a must have. )
08-15-2002, 10:32 AM
#69
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
Re: Update to my post above...
Originally posted by ThomBlaze2k2SE
Update to my post above...
Ok guys, tell me if I'm crazy and off base. I'm definitely not an auto internals guy...
I mentioned above that my oil light and check engine light started coming on yesterday. To be specific, the oil light was never static. It would flicker here or there on braking, launching, whatever which of course leads me to believe the oil is getting low but not dangerous. I just hit abou 7500 miles so its time for my scheduled maintenance and had my oil levels taken care of at my last scheduled maintenance I did about around 3000 or so miles. when I last check my levels all was fine. Okay, with that said here's the story.
I went by the gas station and dropped a bottle of oil into the engine because I couldn't get a real reading without have to wait for the oil the settle back down and didn't have time to wait. After I dropped that oil in there the car ran great. I was hitting the gas quickly and suddenly trying to get that hesistation back and couldn't do it. I think I barely got one in 5 gear during this test. I also was check the pick up at 70 mph and at 80 mph in both 5th and 6th gears. My max in particular rpm's at 2000 in 6th at 70mph and 3000 in 5th at 70mph. It rpms at 2500 in 6th at 80mph and 3500 in 5th at 80mph. Not sure if this is the norm but I did about 3 or 4 cruises to make sure my average was right. Okay, my test was to check the pull in each gear scenario I just described and it pulled as I have come accustomed to under "normal" conditions. I'm obviously discounted a bit because of the heat. Cool days always have great "whee!" factor.
I got to work and let the car sit for about 20 minutes and when to check the actual oil levels and to my surprise the dip stick was barely registering any oil at all.
So what I'm wondering is whether or not this was a contributor or not. Could it be that the oil level sensor is way out of touch with actual levels and so the max is running on lower oil levels than what it really should be running at to pull strong? If so than could everyone's oil levels be down to far and not know it? I know most of you guys are very knowledgeable and something so simple as oil levels are probably items you all checked off long time ago so I'm not trying to insult anyone intelligence here. Just doing more grasping. I was just kinda shocked at my oil levels and then at performance performance gains of the car after I added just that one bottle without even filling up.
I guess between the hesitation, the CD speaker issues, the vibration or fluttering (or whatever you call it) in the forward dash I hear now, I just wanting answers. Strangely though after I added the oil that vibration noise seemed to go away to. It occurs most where the air is one. ...maybe I'm being wishful in my thinking and all of this is just coincidence and I'll experience the problems again soon.
...but I'm gonna stay optimistic!
If this keeps up I'm seriously gonna consider trading in for the New Max when it gets and take the loss on the 2002. (small print: assuming the all new Max is a must have. )
Update to my post above...
Ok guys, tell me if I'm crazy and off base. I'm definitely not an auto internals guy...
I mentioned above that my oil light and check engine light started coming on yesterday. To be specific, the oil light was never static. It would flicker here or there on braking, launching, whatever which of course leads me to believe the oil is getting low but not dangerous. I just hit abou 7500 miles so its time for my scheduled maintenance and had my oil levels taken care of at my last scheduled maintenance I did about around 3000 or so miles. when I last check my levels all was fine. Okay, with that said here's the story.
I went by the gas station and dropped a bottle of oil into the engine because I couldn't get a real reading without have to wait for the oil the settle back down and didn't have time to wait. After I dropped that oil in there the car ran great. I was hitting the gas quickly and suddenly trying to get that hesistation back and couldn't do it. I think I barely got one in 5 gear during this test. I also was check the pick up at 70 mph and at 80 mph in both 5th and 6th gears. My max in particular rpm's at 2000 in 6th at 70mph and 3000 in 5th at 70mph. It rpms at 2500 in 6th at 80mph and 3500 in 5th at 80mph. Not sure if this is the norm but I did about 3 or 4 cruises to make sure my average was right. Okay, my test was to check the pull in each gear scenario I just described and it pulled as I have come accustomed to under "normal" conditions. I'm obviously discounted a bit because of the heat. Cool days always have great "whee!" factor.
I got to work and let the car sit for about 20 minutes and when to check the actual oil levels and to my surprise the dip stick was barely registering any oil at all.
So what I'm wondering is whether or not this was a contributor or not. Could it be that the oil level sensor is way out of touch with actual levels and so the max is running on lower oil levels than what it really should be running at to pull strong? If so than could everyone's oil levels be down to far and not know it? I know most of you guys are very knowledgeable and something so simple as oil levels are probably items you all checked off long time ago so I'm not trying to insult anyone intelligence here. Just doing more grasping. I was just kinda shocked at my oil levels and then at performance performance gains of the car after I added just that one bottle without even filling up.
I guess between the hesitation, the CD speaker issues, the vibration or fluttering (or whatever you call it) in the forward dash I hear now, I just wanting answers. Strangely though after I added the oil that vibration noise seemed to go away to. It occurs most where the air is one. ...maybe I'm being wishful in my thinking and all of this is just coincidence and I'll experience the problems again soon.
...but I'm gonna stay optimistic!
If this keeps up I'm seriously gonna consider trading in for the New Max when it gets and take the loss on the 2002. (small print: assuming the all new Max is a must have. )
As for noises in the dash, I have an irritating one as well. Mine sounds like a golf ball rolling around somewhere in the steering column area everytime I turn or hit a hard bump.
I agree with you on the overall car. I am wishing now I had just kept my 2k Max.
08-15-2002, 11:15 AM
#70
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
I own a 4th gen, but I may be able to help you guys out a bit with understanding what might be going on.
First, ALL VQs, regardless of generation, heat soak horribly. The performance of this motor suffers dramatically in conditions above 80 degrees and higher humidity. I see a difference of ~.3-.4 seconds and 3mph on a hot and humid 80+ day vs running on a 50-60 degree day. That's significant. According to my timeslips, most of the performance suffers in the first 1/8 mile of the race. Even my cable controlled 4th gen feels "laggy" off the line with the temps are high. A drive-by-wire system will be even worse. Every drive-by-wire system on the market seems to have some sort of off the line delay. On hotter days, the delay will be moe apparent because the engine is making less torque because it's hot soaked and probably down on power by 10-15%.
A different style intake system won't help things. Once the intake manifold and throttle body heat soak, the air is going to be very hot when it enters the cylinders. It doesn't matter what you have attached to the other end of the throttle body.
I don't think the motor mounts are the problem because all VQs have the same kind of motor mounts (rubber with gaps to reduce vibration). The VQ rocks in the engine bay pretty badly, but that's to be expected with a FWD car with a heavy V6 torquing on it. I've put hose in the mount gaps and it didn't help anything except cause more vibration.
The delay/hesitation the 6 speed guys are experiencing on gear changes is caused by the clutch. No matter how hard I try in the my 4th gen (with the stock clutch), I can't get a smooth engagement on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. It's as if I'm not rev-matching on my shifts (which I am). Nissan transmissions are famous for these engagement issues.
Dave
First, ALL VQs, regardless of generation, heat soak horribly. The performance of this motor suffers dramatically in conditions above 80 degrees and higher humidity. I see a difference of ~.3-.4 seconds and 3mph on a hot and humid 80+ day vs running on a 50-60 degree day. That's significant. According to my timeslips, most of the performance suffers in the first 1/8 mile of the race. Even my cable controlled 4th gen feels "laggy" off the line with the temps are high. A drive-by-wire system will be even worse. Every drive-by-wire system on the market seems to have some sort of off the line delay. On hotter days, the delay will be moe apparent because the engine is making less torque because it's hot soaked and probably down on power by 10-15%.
A different style intake system won't help things. Once the intake manifold and throttle body heat soak, the air is going to be very hot when it enters the cylinders. It doesn't matter what you have attached to the other end of the throttle body.
I don't think the motor mounts are the problem because all VQs have the same kind of motor mounts (rubber with gaps to reduce vibration). The VQ rocks in the engine bay pretty badly, but that's to be expected with a FWD car with a heavy V6 torquing on it. I've put hose in the mount gaps and it didn't help anything except cause more vibration.
The delay/hesitation the 6 speed guys are experiencing on gear changes is caused by the clutch. No matter how hard I try in the my 4th gen (with the stock clutch), I can't get a smooth engagement on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. It's as if I'm not rev-matching on my shifts (which I am). Nissan transmissions are famous for these engagement issues.
Dave
08-15-2002, 12:10 PM
#71
Originally posted by Dave B
I don't think the motor mounts are the problem because all VQs have the same kind of motor mounts (rubber with gaps to reduce vibration).
I don't think the motor mounts are the problem because all VQs have the same kind of motor mounts (rubber with gaps to reduce vibration).
08-15-2002, 01:00 PM
#74
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 60
Re: Re: Update to my post above...
Hmmm, well Suds I guess I will have the stalling acting again soon enough...I guess I need to move on to another possibility. This is really quite interesting. Does anyone think this is a design flaw since it's is becoming a common phenomenon in hot days?
Is it possible to draw up a list of common denominators here? What do all of us with this problem have in common (both obvious and not so obvious)?
How does something like this get past manufacturers testing? Did these guys (Nissan designers) know this and consider it acceptable against some type of performance ratio or something?
Dave - Thanks for the additional insight. What do you think is the answer here? It sounds as if there is no "real" answer as such.
Will this *new* VQ behave the same way in the G35S/G35C or New Z?
How about the Altima? Those guys reporting any issues similar to this?
Is this common to manuals only or do any autos have it to?
I know hot days put you down on power as your car just cannot breath the same but 10/15%? Isn't that high?
I swear I cannot recall experiencing that kind of power loss on really hot days in my former 5sp 1990 SE.
...so many questions ...so few answers at the moment...
Is it possible to draw up a list of common denominators here? What do all of us with this problem have in common (both obvious and not so obvious)?
How does something like this get past manufacturers testing? Did these guys (Nissan designers) know this and consider it acceptable against some type of performance ratio or something?
Dave - Thanks for the additional insight. What do you think is the answer here? It sounds as if there is no "real" answer as such.
Will this *new* VQ behave the same way in the G35S/G35C or New Z?
How about the Altima? Those guys reporting any issues similar to this?
Is this common to manuals only or do any autos have it to?
I know hot days put you down on power as your car just cannot breath the same but 10/15%? Isn't that high?
I swear I cannot recall experiencing that kind of power loss on really hot days in my former 5sp 1990 SE.
...so many questions ...so few answers at the moment...
Originally posted by suds1
I can rule out the oil issue for myself. I have had the oil changed twice now (2000, 5000). I started having the problem at approx. 300 miles. I switched to Mobil 1 at the 2000 mile oil change. I check my oil at least once a week in the morning before I crank the car up and it is always perfect.
As for noises in the dash, I have an irritating one as well. Mine sounds like a golf ball rolling around somewhere in the steering column area everytime I turn or hit a hard bump.
I agree with you on the overall car. I am wishing now I had just kept my 2k Max.
I can rule out the oil issue for myself. I have had the oil changed twice now (2000, 5000). I started having the problem at approx. 300 miles. I switched to Mobil 1 at the 2000 mile oil change. I check my oil at least once a week in the morning before I crank the car up and it is always perfect.
As for noises in the dash, I have an irritating one as well. Mine sounds like a golf ball rolling around somewhere in the steering column area everytime I turn or hit a hard bump.
I agree with you on the overall car. I am wishing now I had just kept my 2k Max.
08-15-2002, 01:31 PM
#75
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
Re: Re: Re: Update to my post above...
Originally posted by ThomBlaze2k2SE
How does something like this get past manufacturers testing? Did these guys (Nissan designers) know this and consider it acceptable against some type of performance ratio or something?
How does something like this get past manufacturers testing? Did these guys (Nissan designers) know this and consider it acceptable against some type of performance ratio or something?
Dave's analysis makes sense, but if this is the case then I am wondering why I never noticed this a single time in my 2k max.
Ironically I just received a J.D. Power Survey regarding my new car purchase. Anybody else get one of these? There was actually a 1 dollar bill in the envelope with the survey. Its not much but it is always nice to open your mail and find cash! Oh well, they are fixing to find out what I think about this car.
08-15-2002, 02:08 PM
#76
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 402
Re: Re: Re: Re: Update to my post above...
Originally posted by suds1
It must always be cold in Japan!
Dave's analysis makes sense, but if this is the case then I am wondering why I never noticed this a single time in my 2k max.
Ironically I just received a J.D. Power Survey regarding my new car purchase. Anybody else get one of these? There was actually a 1 dollar bill in the envelope with the survey. Its not much but it is always nice to open your mail and find cash! Oh well, they are fixing to find out what I think about this car.
It must always be cold in Japan!
Dave's analysis makes sense, but if this is the case then I am wondering why I never noticed this a single time in my 2k max.
Ironically I just received a J.D. Power Survey regarding my new car purchase. Anybody else get one of these? There was actually a 1 dollar bill in the envelope with the survey. Its not much but it is always nice to open your mail and find cash! Oh well, they are fixing to find out what I think about this car.
You didn't notice that problem in your 2k because the 2k2 is a totally different engine and associated electronics...i think this relates only to 2k2+ maxima's.....right?
arff
08-15-2002, 06:52 PM
#77
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Update to my post above...
Originally posted by saxdogg
You didn't notice that problem in your 2k because the 2k2 is a totally different engine and associated electronics...i think this relates only to 2k2+ maxima's.....right?
arff
You didn't notice that problem in your 2k because the 2k2 is a totally different engine and associated electronics...i think this relates only to 2k2+ maxima's.....right?
arff
I am just curious now to see what kind of problems arise when it gets cold.
08-16-2002, 06:37 AM
#78
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 402
hmmmm..
So this storm system (and cold front if you can call it that) is moving thru TX and it was 72 outside this morning. Not only was the hesitation not as noticable, but the idle was smoother.
Someone had opened a case with Nissan NA about this....should we update them on our findings?
arff
Someone had opened a case with Nissan NA about this....should we update them on our findings?
arff
08-16-2002, 06:55 AM
#79
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 608
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Update to my post above...
Originally posted by saxdogg
You didn't notice that problem in your 2k because the 2k2 is a totally different engine and associated electronics...i think this relates only to 2k2+ maxima's.....right?
arff
You didn't notice that problem in your 2k because the 2k2 is a totally different engine and associated electronics...i think this relates only to 2k2+ maxima's.....right?
arff
nope, i've got a 2k that did it too, until i moved to a cooler climate. although i'd never made the connection until you guys suggested it.
08-16-2002, 07:05 AM
#80
I have a feeling that if a case were to be filed and opened with Nissan NA that this would all come out as a "It's performing within it's design specifications" issue.
I mean, if the car performs just as good in warm/hot weather as it does in cold weather and we start experiencing the very noticeable delays in either conditions then there's definitely a problem.
But if it performs good in cold weather and sub-par in warmer conditions then that's really just the law of physics. As long as the engine doesn't overheat, technically, there's nothing wrong with the car.
Another one of my 2c.
I mean, if the car performs just as good in warm/hot weather as it does in cold weather and we start experiencing the very noticeable delays in either conditions then there's definitely a problem.
But if it performs good in cold weather and sub-par in warmer conditions then that's really just the law of physics. As long as the engine doesn't overheat, technically, there's nothing wrong with the car.
Another one of my 2c.