SS Brake line install and bleeding process.
SS Brake line install and bleeding process.
Instruction on how to remove the Nissan original brake lines, installing the Stainless Steel Brake Line, bleeding the brake system. You need to be 2 peoples to do the jobs, typically it takes about 2 hours to do the entire job, but you all knows it can take always more time to perform an installation, each situation dictate the required time to do the job. We started the job doing the front right , rear right , rear left and front left , there might be a different pattern suggested, but we did it that way and after a week drivng the brakes are solid and the brake pedal is firm.
Security:
Before we start, I think it is important to make a briefing about security specially when using a jack. There is many ways and equipments available to jack a car, depending on the ressource you have access and your ability to use a jack, a lift or any equipment made for the purpose of lifting a car. I strongly advise you to ask for help, if you dont feel absolutely confortable in jacking a car, same thing if you are not shure about the jack or lift you have, please get someone with the abilities, knowledges and proper equipments to help you or guide you thrue the step in lifting your car safely. Typically you may prefer to use different jack or equipments to perform the jobs, for the instalI I had acces to a lift so the car was in the air at about 4 feets from the ground, I was able to perform the installation in the ideal conditions. For some of you jacking the car front and rear, then removing the 4 wheels is already a challenge, thus can be hazardeous or life threatning if not done properly with the right equipment and technique, if you are not absolutely sure dont do it and ask someone for help.
I'm sorry to insist but I dont want to be responsible for anyone injuries or death.
Step 1:
Preparing the car
The car is jack sefely, the 4 wheels are removed, now what you want to do is to cover enough area of the car fender to protect it against brake oil splash or sprayed paint. It is perhaps ideal to use plastic to cover the entire car if you paint the caliper, take your time to do it, brake oil will melt the paint if in contact with it, believe me there is always some splash and spills.
Step 2:
Removing the Nissan original Brake lines
Ensure the car is not running for doing this step.
You are now in front of the car fender, locate the brake line,( Black Rubber line ) In the middle of the brake line there is a line holder, simply pull the clip with a longnose. Before removing the 2 -12mm bolts that attach at each end of the brake line, you may want to spray some WD 40 on the bolts to help remove the rust if any. Now you can remove the 2 bolt with a standard 12mm key or socket . It is important that you look how the lines are placed before you remove it, the 2 ends of the line are not exactly identical, one bolts is connected to the feed line and the other one to the caliper assembley, as soon as you remove the bolts, the oil will start to spill, try to put some pan underneath or use a plastic bottle to limitate the spill, when done with the first wheel repeat the same with all the 3 other wheels.
Step 3:
Installing SS Brake lines
Attach the brake line with the clip( the clip is located on the shock holder at midway ) this way the line will hold on place until you install the 12 mm bolts, when done attach both end of the SS brake line at their respective place with the 12 mm bolts, dont forget to put the supplied washer, be carefull to not over thighen the bolts but be shure there thigh enough we want to be shure to not loose pressure of to have a leak, I honestly dont know what the tork number are for this so be vigilent. Repeat the same procedure for each wheel. Dont forget to ajust the brake line in front because of the wheel traveling when turning, you will see what I mean when doing it.
Important notice: Be shure that the Master cylinder brake oil container always have enough brake oil try to keep it near the max, you will need to add some brake oil during the bleeding process, this way you ensure no air will infiltrate by the oil container during the bleeding process , otherwise you will have to start all over again with the bleeding process. Be shure to leave the Master cylinder cover closed when bleeding, dont apply pressure on the brake pedal when the master cylinder oil container cover is open. Dont re-use the spilled oil it can be contaminated.
Step4:
Bleeding procedures:
First the car must be at neutral or park, the engine must run at idle, the hood must be open so you have access to the master cylinder oil container. You need a 10 mm key, for opening and closing the bleeder. The bleeders are located on the caliper assembley on the inside, there is a little rubber cap on it, remove it. We are now ready to proceed, your helper is in the driver seat, ask him to pump the brake pedal 2-3 times and hold the feet on the pedal to keep the pressure, then you unscrew the bleeder with the 10mm key, loose it so the air-oil can be pushed out, as soon as it stop spilling which should take approx 2-3 seconds , then quickly close the bleeder, during all this time the driver keep applying pressure on the pedal and it is only after you close the bleeder that the driver can release the pedal, repeat the same operation twice before moving to the next wheel. After the 4 wheels are done you want to verify if the brake pedal is hard and high or soft and low, cuz if the pedal is soft and low it's because there is still some air in the system, and you need to bleed a little more, you need to bleed each bleeder until the brake pedal is ferm and high.
Step 5:
Verifying your work before leaving for a ride.
1-Verify if there is any leak,
2-Verify the brake oil level before going for a test ride
3-Verify if the pedal is firm and high
4-Verify if the front Brake line have enough travelling when you turn the wheel if not reajust it by pulling gently the line.
Good luck and if you need to clarify some point you can e-mail me at dblea@videotron.ca
Cheers
AA
Security:
Before we start, I think it is important to make a briefing about security specially when using a jack. There is many ways and equipments available to jack a car, depending on the ressource you have access and your ability to use a jack, a lift or any equipment made for the purpose of lifting a car. I strongly advise you to ask for help, if you dont feel absolutely confortable in jacking a car, same thing if you are not shure about the jack or lift you have, please get someone with the abilities, knowledges and proper equipments to help you or guide you thrue the step in lifting your car safely. Typically you may prefer to use different jack or equipments to perform the jobs, for the instalI I had acces to a lift so the car was in the air at about 4 feets from the ground, I was able to perform the installation in the ideal conditions. For some of you jacking the car front and rear, then removing the 4 wheels is already a challenge, thus can be hazardeous or life threatning if not done properly with the right equipment and technique, if you are not absolutely sure dont do it and ask someone for help.
I'm sorry to insist but I dont want to be responsible for anyone injuries or death.
Step 1:
Preparing the car
The car is jack sefely, the 4 wheels are removed, now what you want to do is to cover enough area of the car fender to protect it against brake oil splash or sprayed paint. It is perhaps ideal to use plastic to cover the entire car if you paint the caliper, take your time to do it, brake oil will melt the paint if in contact with it, believe me there is always some splash and spills.
Step 2:
Removing the Nissan original Brake lines
Ensure the car is not running for doing this step.
You are now in front of the car fender, locate the brake line,( Black Rubber line ) In the middle of the brake line there is a line holder, simply pull the clip with a longnose. Before removing the 2 -12mm bolts that attach at each end of the brake line, you may want to spray some WD 40 on the bolts to help remove the rust if any. Now you can remove the 2 bolt with a standard 12mm key or socket . It is important that you look how the lines are placed before you remove it, the 2 ends of the line are not exactly identical, one bolts is connected to the feed line and the other one to the caliper assembley, as soon as you remove the bolts, the oil will start to spill, try to put some pan underneath or use a plastic bottle to limitate the spill, when done with the first wheel repeat the same with all the 3 other wheels.
Step 3:
Installing SS Brake lines
Attach the brake line with the clip( the clip is located on the shock holder at midway ) this way the line will hold on place until you install the 12 mm bolts, when done attach both end of the SS brake line at their respective place with the 12 mm bolts, dont forget to put the supplied washer, be carefull to not over thighen the bolts but be shure there thigh enough we want to be shure to not loose pressure of to have a leak, I honestly dont know what the tork number are for this so be vigilent. Repeat the same procedure for each wheel. Dont forget to ajust the brake line in front because of the wheel traveling when turning, you will see what I mean when doing it.
Important notice: Be shure that the Master cylinder brake oil container always have enough brake oil try to keep it near the max, you will need to add some brake oil during the bleeding process, this way you ensure no air will infiltrate by the oil container during the bleeding process , otherwise you will have to start all over again with the bleeding process. Be shure to leave the Master cylinder cover closed when bleeding, dont apply pressure on the brake pedal when the master cylinder oil container cover is open. Dont re-use the spilled oil it can be contaminated.
Step4:
Bleeding procedures:
First the car must be at neutral or park, the engine must run at idle, the hood must be open so you have access to the master cylinder oil container. You need a 10 mm key, for opening and closing the bleeder. The bleeders are located on the caliper assembley on the inside, there is a little rubber cap on it, remove it. We are now ready to proceed, your helper is in the driver seat, ask him to pump the brake pedal 2-3 times and hold the feet on the pedal to keep the pressure, then you unscrew the bleeder with the 10mm key, loose it so the air-oil can be pushed out, as soon as it stop spilling which should take approx 2-3 seconds , then quickly close the bleeder, during all this time the driver keep applying pressure on the pedal and it is only after you close the bleeder that the driver can release the pedal, repeat the same operation twice before moving to the next wheel. After the 4 wheels are done you want to verify if the brake pedal is hard and high or soft and low, cuz if the pedal is soft and low it's because there is still some air in the system, and you need to bleed a little more, you need to bleed each bleeder until the brake pedal is ferm and high.
Step 5:
Verifying your work before leaving for a ride.
1-Verify if there is any leak,
2-Verify the brake oil level before going for a test ride
3-Verify if the pedal is firm and high
4-Verify if the front Brake line have enough travelling when you turn the wheel if not reajust it by pulling gently the line.
Good luck and if you need to clarify some point you can e-mail me at dblea@videotron.ca
Cheers
AA
Originally posted by MaximaRacer
You are supposed to bleed with the engine on? Someone else told me on this forum that the engine is supposed to be off
You are supposed to bleed with the engine on? Someone else told me on this forum that the engine is supposed to be off
Thanks
AA
How do I re-edit a thread ???
Originally posted by MaximaRacer
You are supposed to bleed with the engine on? Someone else told me on this forum that the engine is supposed to be off
You are supposed to bleed with the engine on? Someone else told me on this forum that the engine is supposed to be off
Cheers
Originally posted by MaximaRacer
You are supposed to bleed with the engine on? Someone else told me on this forum that the engine is supposed to be off
You are supposed to bleed with the engine on? Someone else told me on this forum that the engine is supposed to be off
Not Found
The requested URL /spellcheck/spch.js was not found on this server.
Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
Apache/1.3.23 Server at forums.maxima.org Port 80
AA
Re: SS Brake line install and bleeding process.
Originally posted by doublea
Instruction on how to remove the Nissan original brake lines, installing the Stainless Steel Brake Line, bleeding the brake system. You need to be 2 peoples to do the jobs, typically it takes about 2 hours to do the entire job, but you all knows it can take always more time to perform an installation, each situation dictate the required time to do the job. We started the job doing the front right , rear right , rear left and front left , there might be a different pattern suggested, but we did it that way and after a week drivng the brakes are solid and the brake pedal is firm.
Security:
Before we start, I think it is important to make a briefing about security specially when using a jack. There is many ways and equipments available to jack a car, depending on the ressource you have access and your ability to use a jack, a lift or any equipment made for the purpose of lifting a car. I strongly advise you to ask for help, if you dont feel absolutely confortable in jacking a car, same thing if you are not shure about the jack or lift you have, please get someone with the abilities, knowledges and proper equipments to help you or guide you thrue the step in lifting your car safely. Typically you may prefer to use different jack or equipments to perform the jobs, for the instalI I had acces to a lift so the car was in the air at about 4 feets from the ground, I was able to perform the installation in the ideal conditions. For some of you jacking the car front and rear, then removing the 4 wheels is already a challenge, thus can be hazardeous or life threatning if not done properly with the right equipment and technique, if you are not absolutely sure dont do it and ask someone for help.
I'm sorry to insist but I dont want to be responsible for anyone injuries or death.
Step 1:
Preparing the car
The car is jack sefely, the 4 wheels are removed, now what you want to do is to cover enough area of the car fender to protect it against brake oil splash or sprayed paint. It is perhaps ideal to use plastic to cover the entire car if you paint the caliper, take your time to do it, brake oil will melt the paint if in contact with it, believe me there is always some splash and spills.
Step 2:
Removing the Nissan original Brake lines
Ensure the car is not running for doing this step.
You are now in front of the car fender, locate the brake line,( Black Rubber line ) In the middle of the brake line there is a line holder, simply pull the clip with a longnose. Before removing the 2 -12mm bolts that attach at each end of the brake line, you may want to spray some WD 40 on the bolts to help remove the rust if any. Now you can remove the 2 bolt with a standard 12mm key or socket . It is important that you look how the lines are placed before you remove it, the 2 ends of the line are not exactly identical, one bolts is connected to the feed line and the other one to the caliper assembley, as soon as you remove the bolts, the oil will start to spill, try to put some pan underneath or use a plastic bottle to limitate the spill, when done with the first wheel repeat the same with all the 3 other wheels.
Step 3:
Installing SS Brake lines
Attach the brake line with the clip( the clip is located on the shock holder at midway ) this way the line will hold on place until you install the 12 mm bolts, when done attach both end of the SS brake line at their respective place with the 12 mm bolts, dont forget to put the supplied washer, be carefull to not over thighen the bolts but be shure there thigh enough we want to be shure to not loose pressure of to have a leak, I honestly dont know what the tork number are for this so be vigilent. Repeat the same procedure for each wheel. Dont forget to ajust the brake line in front because of the wheel traveling when turning, you will see what I mean when doing it.
Important notice: Be shure that the Master cylinder brake oil container always have enough brake oil try to keep it near the max, you will need to add some brake oil during the bleeding process, this way you ensure no air will infiltrate by the oil container during the bleeding process , otherwise you will have to start all over again with the bleeding process. Be shure to leave the Master cylinder cover closed when bleeding, dont apply pressure on the brake pedal when the master cylinder oil container cover is open. Dont re-use the spilled oil it can be contaminated.
Step4:
Bleeding procedures:
First the car must be at neutral or park, the engine must not run, the hood must be open so you have access to the master cylinder oil container. You need a 10 mm key, for opening and closing the bleeder. The bleeders are located on the caliper assembley on the inside, there is a little rubber cap on it, remove it. We are now ready to proceed, your helper is in the driver seat, ask him to pump the brake pedal 2-3 times and hold the feet on the pedal to keep the pressure, then you unscrew the bleeder with the 10mm key, loose it so the air-oil can be pushed out, as soon as it stop spilling which should take approx 2-3 seconds , then quickly close the bleeder, during all this time the driver keep applying pressure on the pedal and it is only after you close the bleeder that the driver can release the pedal, repeat the same operation twice before moving to the next wheel. After the 4 wheels are done you want to verify if the brake pedal is hard and high or soft and low, cuz if the pedal is soft and low it's because there is still some air in the system, and you need to bleed a little more, you need to bleed each bleeder until the brake pedal is ferm and high.
Step 5:
Verifying your work before leaving for a ride.
1-Verify if there is any leak,
2-Verify the brake oil level before going for a test ride
3-Verify if the pedal is firm and high
4-Verify if the front Brake line have enough travelling when you turn the wheel if not reajust it by pulling gently the line.
Good luck and if you need to clarify some point you can e-mail me at dblea@videotron.ca
Cheers
AA
Instruction on how to remove the Nissan original brake lines, installing the Stainless Steel Brake Line, bleeding the brake system. You need to be 2 peoples to do the jobs, typically it takes about 2 hours to do the entire job, but you all knows it can take always more time to perform an installation, each situation dictate the required time to do the job. We started the job doing the front right , rear right , rear left and front left , there might be a different pattern suggested, but we did it that way and after a week drivng the brakes are solid and the brake pedal is firm.
Security:
Before we start, I think it is important to make a briefing about security specially when using a jack. There is many ways and equipments available to jack a car, depending on the ressource you have access and your ability to use a jack, a lift or any equipment made for the purpose of lifting a car. I strongly advise you to ask for help, if you dont feel absolutely confortable in jacking a car, same thing if you are not shure about the jack or lift you have, please get someone with the abilities, knowledges and proper equipments to help you or guide you thrue the step in lifting your car safely. Typically you may prefer to use different jack or equipments to perform the jobs, for the instalI I had acces to a lift so the car was in the air at about 4 feets from the ground, I was able to perform the installation in the ideal conditions. For some of you jacking the car front and rear, then removing the 4 wheels is already a challenge, thus can be hazardeous or life threatning if not done properly with the right equipment and technique, if you are not absolutely sure dont do it and ask someone for help.
I'm sorry to insist but I dont want to be responsible for anyone injuries or death.
Step 1:
Preparing the car
The car is jack sefely, the 4 wheels are removed, now what you want to do is to cover enough area of the car fender to protect it against brake oil splash or sprayed paint. It is perhaps ideal to use plastic to cover the entire car if you paint the caliper, take your time to do it, brake oil will melt the paint if in contact with it, believe me there is always some splash and spills.
Step 2:
Removing the Nissan original Brake lines
Ensure the car is not running for doing this step.
You are now in front of the car fender, locate the brake line,( Black Rubber line ) In the middle of the brake line there is a line holder, simply pull the clip with a longnose. Before removing the 2 -12mm bolts that attach at each end of the brake line, you may want to spray some WD 40 on the bolts to help remove the rust if any. Now you can remove the 2 bolt with a standard 12mm key or socket . It is important that you look how the lines are placed before you remove it, the 2 ends of the line are not exactly identical, one bolts is connected to the feed line and the other one to the caliper assembley, as soon as you remove the bolts, the oil will start to spill, try to put some pan underneath or use a plastic bottle to limitate the spill, when done with the first wheel repeat the same with all the 3 other wheels.
Step 3:
Installing SS Brake lines
Attach the brake line with the clip( the clip is located on the shock holder at midway ) this way the line will hold on place until you install the 12 mm bolts, when done attach both end of the SS brake line at their respective place with the 12 mm bolts, dont forget to put the supplied washer, be carefull to not over thighen the bolts but be shure there thigh enough we want to be shure to not loose pressure of to have a leak, I honestly dont know what the tork number are for this so be vigilent. Repeat the same procedure for each wheel. Dont forget to ajust the brake line in front because of the wheel traveling when turning, you will see what I mean when doing it.
Important notice: Be shure that the Master cylinder brake oil container always have enough brake oil try to keep it near the max, you will need to add some brake oil during the bleeding process, this way you ensure no air will infiltrate by the oil container during the bleeding process , otherwise you will have to start all over again with the bleeding process. Be shure to leave the Master cylinder cover closed when bleeding, dont apply pressure on the brake pedal when the master cylinder oil container cover is open. Dont re-use the spilled oil it can be contaminated.
Step4:
Bleeding procedures:
First the car must be at neutral or park, the engine must not run, the hood must be open so you have access to the master cylinder oil container. You need a 10 mm key, for opening and closing the bleeder. The bleeders are located on the caliper assembley on the inside, there is a little rubber cap on it, remove it. We are now ready to proceed, your helper is in the driver seat, ask him to pump the brake pedal 2-3 times and hold the feet on the pedal to keep the pressure, then you unscrew the bleeder with the 10mm key, loose it so the air-oil can be pushed out, as soon as it stop spilling which should take approx 2-3 seconds , then quickly close the bleeder, during all this time the driver keep applying pressure on the pedal and it is only after you close the bleeder that the driver can release the pedal, repeat the same operation twice before moving to the next wheel. After the 4 wheels are done you want to verify if the brake pedal is hard and high or soft and low, cuz if the pedal is soft and low it's because there is still some air in the system, and you need to bleed a little more, you need to bleed each bleeder until the brake pedal is ferm and high.
Step 5:
Verifying your work before leaving for a ride.
1-Verify if there is any leak,
2-Verify the brake oil level before going for a test ride
3-Verify if the pedal is firm and high
4-Verify if the front Brake line have enough travelling when you turn the wheel if not reajust it by pulling gently the line.
Good luck and if you need to clarify some point you can e-mail me at dblea@videotron.ca
Cheers
AA
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 564
Originally posted by doublea
What the fock with the server, here's the message I get.
Not Found
The requested URL /spellcheck/spch.js was not found on this server.
Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
Apache/1.3.23 Server at forums.maxima.org Port 80
AA
What the fock with the server, here's the message I get.
Not Found
The requested URL /spellcheck/spch.js was not found on this server.
Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
Apache/1.3.23 Server at forums.maxima.org Port 80
AA
Re: SS Brakes Line - revised...long
Thanks to maxima driver for reporting me a stupid error I wrote, I should have readed again before publishing it. Anyway, I also made other corrections so this version is more accurate.
I believe it's the first time I write a sooooo long article in english. I appreciate your forgiveness for the mistake I made. I have no clue on how to delete the original thread, so that is why I'm reposting it. If someone know how to delete the first version of this thread, then go ahead and make my life easier by deleting it. I thank you for that.
Her is some Instruction on how to remove the Nissan original brake lines, installing the Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Line and bleeding the brake system. You need to be 2 peoples to do the jobs, typically it can takes 1 1/2 - 2 hours to do the entire job, but you all knows it can always take more time to perform an installation, each situation dictate the required time to accomplish the job. We started the job doing the front right, rear right, rear left and front left. There might be a different pattern suggested, but we did it that way and after a week driving the car the brakes are solid, and the brake pedal is firm and also important there is no leaking. If you are switching to Motul oil you will have to entirely flush the brake system, mixing different oil is not recommended.
Security
Before we start, I think it is important to make a briefing about security specially when using a jack. There is many ways and equipments to jack a car, depending on the ressource you have access and your ability to use a jack, a lift or any equipment made for the purpose of lifting a car. I strongly advise you to ask for help, if you dont feel absolutely confortable in jacking a car. Same thing apply if you are not shure about the jack or the lift you have, please get someone with the abilities, knowledges and proper equipments to help you or guide you thrue the step in lifting your car safely. Typically you may prefer to use different jack or equipments to perform the jobs. For the instalI I had acces to a lift so the car was in the air at about 4 feets from the ground, I was able to perform the installation in the ideal conditions.
For some of you jacking the car front and rear, then removing the 4 wheels is already a challenge, thus can be hazardeous or life threatning if not done properly with the right equipment and technique, so if you are not absolutely sure of what your doing, dont do it and ask someone for help. I'm sorry to insist but I dont want to be responsible for anyone injuries or death.
Step 1:
Preparing the car
Let's presume that the car is jack sefely and the 4 wheels are removed, what you want to do next is to cover enough area of the car fender and car body to protect it against brake oil splash or paint dust in case you paint the caliper at the same time. It is perhaps ideal to use plastic, to cover the entire car if you paint the caliper, take your time to do it, brake oil will melt the paint if in contact with it, believe me there is always some splash and spills.
Step 2:
Removing the Nissan original Brake lines
The engine is not running for doing this step.
You are now in front right of the car fender, locate the brake line,( Black Rubber line ) In the middle of the brake line there is a line holder, you simply need to pull the clip with a pair of longnose. Before removing the 2 bolts that fix the brake line, spray some wd 40 on it. The bottom bolt is a 12mm, it attach at the lower end of the brake line. Now detach the upper bolt on the brake line, I'm not absolutely shure this one is 12mm, use the appropriat size key. It is important that you look how the lines are placed before removing it, the 2 ends of the line are not exactly identical, one side is kind of curved. One bolts is connected to the feed line and the other one to the caliper assembley, as soon as you will remove the bolts, the oil will start to spill, put some pan underneath or use a plastic bottle to collect the falling brake oil and to limitate the spill. When your finish with the brake line removal on the first wheel, you can either go to step 3 now if ( you dont need to flush the brake system ) if you need to flush the brake system then you can remove all the line first and then proceed with the GoodRidge SS line for all wheel.
Step 3:
Installing SS Brake lines
Attach the SS brake line with the clip ( the clip is located on the shock holder at midway for the front one ) this way the line will hold on place until you start to thighen the bolts, when done attach both end of the SS brake line at their place with their respective bolts, dont forget to put the supplied washer and be carefull to not over thighen the bolts, but make shure to thigh the bolts enough, leaking and loosin brake oil is not on our list. I honestly dont know what the tork numbers are for these bolt so be vigilent. Repeat the same procedure for each wheel. Ajust the front brake line, because of the wheel traveling when turning you may need to pull the line a bit, you will see what I mean when doing it.
Important notice: Be shure that the Master cylinder brake oil container always have enough brake oil unless you flush the brake sytem. Try to keep it near the max level, from time to time you will have to add some brake oil between the bleeding process, this way you will ensure, that no air will infiltrate in the brake system while bleeding, otherwise you will have to start all over again with the bleeding process. Be shure to leave the Master cylinder cover closed when bleeding, dont apply pressure on the brake pedal when the master cylinder oil container cover is open. Do not re-use the spilled oil it can be contaminated.
Step4:
Bleeding procedures:
First the car must be at neutral or park, dont start the engine, the hood must be open so you have access to the master cylinder oil container. You need a 10 mm key,to open and close the bleeder. The bleeders ( one per wheel ) are located on the caliper assembley toward the inside, there is a little rubber cap on it, remove it. We are now ready to proceed, your helper is sit in the driver seat, ask him to pump the brake pedal 2-3 times and hold the feet on the pedal to keep the pressure, then you unscrew the bleeder with the 10mm key, loose it so the air-oil can be release, as soon as it stop spilling which it should take approx 2-3 seconds, then quickly close the bleeder, during all this time the driver keep applying pressure on the pedal and it is only after you close the bleeder that the driver can release the pedal. Repeat the same operation 2 or 3 times, the number of bleeding per wheel depend on the amount of air stock in the line before moving to the next wheel. After the 4 wheels are done you want to verify if the brake pedal is hard and high or soft and low, cuz if the pedal is soft and low it's because there is still some air in the system, and you need to bleed a little more, you need to bleed each bleeder until the brake pedal is ferm and high.
Step 5:
Verifying your work before leaving for a ride.
1-Verify if there is any leak,
2-Verify the brake oil level is ok before going out for a test ride.
3-Verify if the pedal is firm and high
4-Verify if the front brake line have enough travelling when you turn the wheel, if not reajust the brake line by slidding the line on the line holder.
5-Do a test drive in a parking lot braking many time at low speed, before you leave for a longer ride, feel the pedal, if you experience a pedal that have tendency to go to the metal,you need to bleed the brakes again until the pedal is high and firm.
6- Monitor the brake reaction for the first few days to see if anything is abnormal.
Good luck and if you need to clarify some point you can e-mail me at dblea@videotron.ca
Cheers
AA
I believe it's the first time I write a sooooo long article in english. I appreciate your forgiveness for the mistake I made. I have no clue on how to delete the original thread, so that is why I'm reposting it. If someone know how to delete the first version of this thread, then go ahead and make my life easier by deleting it. I thank you for that.
Her is some Instruction on how to remove the Nissan original brake lines, installing the Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Line and bleeding the brake system. You need to be 2 peoples to do the jobs, typically it can takes 1 1/2 - 2 hours to do the entire job, but you all knows it can always take more time to perform an installation, each situation dictate the required time to accomplish the job. We started the job doing the front right, rear right, rear left and front left. There might be a different pattern suggested, but we did it that way and after a week driving the car the brakes are solid, and the brake pedal is firm and also important there is no leaking. If you are switching to Motul oil you will have to entirely flush the brake system, mixing different oil is not recommended.
Security
Before we start, I think it is important to make a briefing about security specially when using a jack. There is many ways and equipments to jack a car, depending on the ressource you have access and your ability to use a jack, a lift or any equipment made for the purpose of lifting a car. I strongly advise you to ask for help, if you dont feel absolutely confortable in jacking a car. Same thing apply if you are not shure about the jack or the lift you have, please get someone with the abilities, knowledges and proper equipments to help you or guide you thrue the step in lifting your car safely. Typically you may prefer to use different jack or equipments to perform the jobs. For the instalI I had acces to a lift so the car was in the air at about 4 feets from the ground, I was able to perform the installation in the ideal conditions.
For some of you jacking the car front and rear, then removing the 4 wheels is already a challenge, thus can be hazardeous or life threatning if not done properly with the right equipment and technique, so if you are not absolutely sure of what your doing, dont do it and ask someone for help. I'm sorry to insist but I dont want to be responsible for anyone injuries or death.
Step 1:
Preparing the car
Let's presume that the car is jack sefely and the 4 wheels are removed, what you want to do next is to cover enough area of the car fender and car body to protect it against brake oil splash or paint dust in case you paint the caliper at the same time. It is perhaps ideal to use plastic, to cover the entire car if you paint the caliper, take your time to do it, brake oil will melt the paint if in contact with it, believe me there is always some splash and spills.
Step 2:
Removing the Nissan original Brake lines
The engine is not running for doing this step.
You are now in front right of the car fender, locate the brake line,( Black Rubber line ) In the middle of the brake line there is a line holder, you simply need to pull the clip with a pair of longnose. Before removing the 2 bolts that fix the brake line, spray some wd 40 on it. The bottom bolt is a 12mm, it attach at the lower end of the brake line. Now detach the upper bolt on the brake line, I'm not absolutely shure this one is 12mm, use the appropriat size key. It is important that you look how the lines are placed before removing it, the 2 ends of the line are not exactly identical, one side is kind of curved. One bolts is connected to the feed line and the other one to the caliper assembley, as soon as you will remove the bolts, the oil will start to spill, put some pan underneath or use a plastic bottle to collect the falling brake oil and to limitate the spill. When your finish with the brake line removal on the first wheel, you can either go to step 3 now if ( you dont need to flush the brake system ) if you need to flush the brake system then you can remove all the line first and then proceed with the GoodRidge SS line for all wheel.
Step 3:
Installing SS Brake lines
Attach the SS brake line with the clip ( the clip is located on the shock holder at midway for the front one ) this way the line will hold on place until you start to thighen the bolts, when done attach both end of the SS brake line at their place with their respective bolts, dont forget to put the supplied washer and be carefull to not over thighen the bolts, but make shure to thigh the bolts enough, leaking and loosin brake oil is not on our list. I honestly dont know what the tork numbers are for these bolt so be vigilent. Repeat the same procedure for each wheel. Ajust the front brake line, because of the wheel traveling when turning you may need to pull the line a bit, you will see what I mean when doing it.
Important notice: Be shure that the Master cylinder brake oil container always have enough brake oil unless you flush the brake sytem. Try to keep it near the max level, from time to time you will have to add some brake oil between the bleeding process, this way you will ensure, that no air will infiltrate in the brake system while bleeding, otherwise you will have to start all over again with the bleeding process. Be shure to leave the Master cylinder cover closed when bleeding, dont apply pressure on the brake pedal when the master cylinder oil container cover is open. Do not re-use the spilled oil it can be contaminated.
Step4:
Bleeding procedures:
First the car must be at neutral or park, dont start the engine, the hood must be open so you have access to the master cylinder oil container. You need a 10 mm key,to open and close the bleeder. The bleeders ( one per wheel ) are located on the caliper assembley toward the inside, there is a little rubber cap on it, remove it. We are now ready to proceed, your helper is sit in the driver seat, ask him to pump the brake pedal 2-3 times and hold the feet on the pedal to keep the pressure, then you unscrew the bleeder with the 10mm key, loose it so the air-oil can be release, as soon as it stop spilling which it should take approx 2-3 seconds, then quickly close the bleeder, during all this time the driver keep applying pressure on the pedal and it is only after you close the bleeder that the driver can release the pedal. Repeat the same operation 2 or 3 times, the number of bleeding per wheel depend on the amount of air stock in the line before moving to the next wheel. After the 4 wheels are done you want to verify if the brake pedal is hard and high or soft and low, cuz if the pedal is soft and low it's because there is still some air in the system, and you need to bleed a little more, you need to bleed each bleeder until the brake pedal is ferm and high.
Step 5:
Verifying your work before leaving for a ride.
1-Verify if there is any leak,
2-Verify the brake oil level is ok before going out for a test ride.
3-Verify if the pedal is firm and high
4-Verify if the front brake line have enough travelling when you turn the wheel, if not reajust the brake line by slidding the line on the line holder.
5-Do a test drive in a parking lot braking many time at low speed, before you leave for a longer ride, feel the pedal, if you experience a pedal that have tendency to go to the metal,you need to bleed the brakes again until the pedal is high and firm.
6- Monitor the brake reaction for the first few days to see if anything is abnormal.
Good luck and if you need to clarify some point you can e-mail me at dblea@videotron.ca
Cheers
AA
Re: the FSM
Originally posted by TimW
says to disconnect the neg battery terminal before bleeding if you have ABS..
says to disconnect the neg battery terminal before bleeding if you have ABS..
My ABS work well I tested the car with eavier braking this morning and the ABS showed up and worked fine, the brakes are great and defenitely feel stronger.
Cheers
AA
I doubt
anyone does it.. the FSM is just overly cautious. I cant tell you one way or the other.. just saying..
I suspect its so the car isnt accidently turned to the ON position and the ABS tried to purge while your bleeding.
I suspect its so the car isnt accidently turned to the ON position and the ABS tried to purge while your bleeding.
Re: I doubt
Originally posted by TimW
anyone does it.. the FSM is just overly cautious. I cant tell you one way or the other.. just saying..
I suspect its so the car isnt accidently turned to the ON position and the ABS tried to purge while your bleeding.
anyone does it.. the FSM is just overly cautious. I cant tell you one way or the other.. just saying..
I suspect its so the car isnt accidently turned to the ON position and the ABS tried to purge while your bleeding.
Thanks for your comments it's always good to know more than less.
Cheers
AA
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