Supercharger 101, what do I need and dont need?
08-10-2002, 06:05 PM
#1
Supercharger 101, what do I need and dont need?
Alright, I searched for over 1hr on the search trying to find something, but our search is limited due to the way it works. I am ready to go supercharged in about 2-4weeks.
Now I have been looking at racks of different maximas on how they are supercharged. Talked to different people also. Still have questions and wondering what the heck I need and what not.
Well lets start with Gauges, I know I would want a Boost Gauge, and a Air/Fuel ratio gauge, and would the last one be the EGT gauge? But some people say if you have an EGT guage you can tell if you are running rich or lean, then there would be no reason for the Air/Fuel ratio. If so what would I put as the 3rd Gauge? And why does everyone pick the analog kinds instead of the digital ones?
#2 With all this Timing retard talk and this new thing that MardisGrasMax is showing, what do I need there? Do I need to have this Apexi RSM? What does it do? All I keep hearing is that it adjusts the timing or something. But what is all this talk about how the ECU only allows so much and then it will re-set the settings?
#3 I know the install it quite a whole day job requiring the coolant tank to be moved and alot of other things. But I am a man about doing it all myself, I dont like taking it to shops and paying for something that can be done with some friends. Is this possiblen for a first time S/C install?
#4 Valvebody recalibration??? Do I need this or not? I mean I know since I have an auto it is highly recommended but does it have to be done from MobilTek or can I get this done anywhere else?
#5 Exhaust, for a good S/C install you should definetely have a full 2.5" exhaust all the way back correct? I mean I dont have anything restrictive at the moment except by Bpipe which WSP is making me a custom one. But for the most part if you have a 2.5" from header back you should be fine correct?
#6 Lastly, now I am a man. So you know I want as much power as I can get. I know the pulleys come in alot of different sizes. I know the stock is 3.6" which makes about 6psi. Lets say I were to go to a 2.87" pulley which is going to do like over 13psi correct? What are the drawbacks besides stock internals and auto tranny falling apart? Is there where that thing MardisGrasMax would help because of knocking from the smaller pulley? Would I need that thing if I only went to a 3.125" pulley?
I will stop the questions here at the moment. Please only answer this thread if you KNOW the answer or have experience with it like HAVING a S/C. I dont want this to get threadjacked. I would like this to be as informative as possible and make it accessible from the FAQ.
Dixit
Now I have been looking at racks of different maximas on how they are supercharged. Talked to different people also. Still have questions and wondering what the heck I need and what not.
Well lets start with Gauges, I know I would want a Boost Gauge, and a Air/Fuel ratio gauge, and would the last one be the EGT gauge? But some people say if you have an EGT guage you can tell if you are running rich or lean, then there would be no reason for the Air/Fuel ratio. If so what would I put as the 3rd Gauge? And why does everyone pick the analog kinds instead of the digital ones?
#2 With all this Timing retard talk and this new thing that MardisGrasMax is showing, what do I need there? Do I need to have this Apexi RSM? What does it do? All I keep hearing is that it adjusts the timing or something. But what is all this talk about how the ECU only allows so much and then it will re-set the settings?
#3 I know the install it quite a whole day job requiring the coolant tank to be moved and alot of other things. But I am a man about doing it all myself, I dont like taking it to shops and paying for something that can be done with some friends. Is this possiblen for a first time S/C install?
#4 Valvebody recalibration??? Do I need this or not? I mean I know since I have an auto it is highly recommended but does it have to be done from MobilTek or can I get this done anywhere else?
#5 Exhaust, for a good S/C install you should definetely have a full 2.5" exhaust all the way back correct? I mean I dont have anything restrictive at the moment except by Bpipe which WSP is making me a custom one. But for the most part if you have a 2.5" from header back you should be fine correct?
#6 Lastly, now I am a man. So you know I want as much power as I can get. I know the pulleys come in alot of different sizes. I know the stock is 3.6" which makes about 6psi. Lets say I were to go to a 2.87" pulley which is going to do like over 13psi correct? What are the drawbacks besides stock internals and auto tranny falling apart? Is there where that thing MardisGrasMax would help because of knocking from the smaller pulley? Would I need that thing if I only went to a 3.125" pulley?
I will stop the questions here at the moment. Please only answer this thread if you KNOW the answer or have experience with it like HAVING a S/C. I dont want this to get threadjacked. I would like this to be as informative as possible and make it accessible from the FAQ.
Dixit
08-10-2002, 06:44 PM
#2
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,267
SC on automatic thread
Or just do everything that Y2KevSE has done (except maybe the 2.87" pulley).
As for the valvebody mod, unless you live around Houston, good luck getting it from Mobiletek. Check some of the complaint threads, there's been some issues with communication and service. Unfortunately, Level 10 has had some complaints too, so you might have to find someplace else.
Or just do everything that Y2KevSE has done (except maybe the 2.87" pulley).
As for the valvebody mod, unless you live around Houston, good luck getting it from Mobiletek. Check some of the complaint threads, there's been some issues with communication and service. Unfortunately, Level 10 has had some complaints too, so you might have to find someplace else.
08-10-2002, 06:48 PM
#3
Used force to obtain Admin powers
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,107
Hi Dixit, this is Kevin (I don't want to use my account).
I recommend a boost gauge and EGT gauge over the a/f gauge because I'm assuming you're buying Autometer gauges. If you are not getting the Autometer a/f gauge, I would get the GReddy a/f gauge since it has a control unit and a better O2 (which you will either have a new O2 bung welded or replace an existing O2). If you really want a 3rd gen, I would get a fuel pressure gauge. To me, analog is easier to notice than digital because you can remember short glances at the gauges compared to exact numbers. It's really up to you.
You don't need it, but if you're going to do double digit boosting then I would recommend getting it. I'm doing 11 psi without any audible pinging, so you "should" be safe running that as well.
No, you don't need an RSM. http://www.rev-industries.com for more information. I believe you're talking about the AFC. It allows you to fine tune fuel at RPM points (7 or 8, I don't remember how many) that you set up. No, it doesn't reset on you... at least it hasn't happened to me (I've leaned points out to over 20% when I was running the 3.125 pulley with 8:1 FMU).
Do the installation in steps. You can actually wire everything up (fuel lines, pump, FMU, power steering, horn, etc.) and still have the ability to drive the car. Ask or search for Jay25's SC posts. Yes, it's possible. 
It is "highly recommended." You can purchase it from http://www.levelten.com.
Yes, 2.5" is recommended if you're not running over 10 psi.
You're a man? I would hope so. 
2.87" "should" give you around 13 psi. You listed all the drawbacks already.
Yes, MardiGrasMax's J&S Electronic retard box would definitely help if you're going to run that pulley.
No, you don't need it for 3.125" pulley. I'm not using it and I have the 2.87" pulley. With water injection and the 2.87", I only get 11 psi for some odd reason.
I think I know what I'm talking about. Hehehe
Well lets start with Gauges, I know I would want a Boost Gauge, and a Air/Fuel ratio gauge, and would the last one be the EGT gauge? But some people say if you have an EGT guage you can tell if you are running rich or lean, then there would be no reason for the Air/Fuel ratio. If so what would I put as the 3rd Gauge? And why does everyone pick the analog kinds instead of the digital ones?
#2 With all this Timing retard talk and this new thing that MardisGrasMax is showing, what do I need there? Do I need to have this Apexi RSM? What does it do? All I keep hearing is that it adjusts the timing or something. But what is all this talk about how the ECU only allows so much and then it will re-set the settings?
No, you don't need an RSM. http://www.rev-industries.com for more information. I believe you're talking about the AFC. It allows you to fine tune fuel at RPM points (7 or 8, I don't remember how many) that you set up. No, it doesn't reset on you... at least it hasn't happened to me (I've leaned points out to over 20% when I was running the 3.125 pulley with 8:1 FMU).
#3 I know the install it quite a whole day job requiring the coolant tank to be moved and alot of other things. But I am a man about doing it all myself, I dont like taking it to shops and paying for something that can be done with some friends. Is this possiblen for a first time S/C install?
#4 Valvebody recalibration??? Do I need this or not? I mean I know since I have an auto it is highly recommended but does it have to be done from MobilTek or can I get this done anywhere else?
#5 Exhaust, for a good S/C install you should definetely have a full 2.5" exhaust all the way back correct? I mean I dont have anything restrictive at the moment except by Bpipe which WSP is making me a custom one. But for the most part if you have a 2.5" from header back you should be fine correct?
#6 Lastly, now I am a man. So you know I want as much power as I can get. I know the pulleys come in alot of different sizes. I know the stock is 3.6" which makes about 6psi. Lets say I were to go to a 2.87" pulley which is going to do like over 13psi correct? What are the drawbacks besides stock internals and auto tranny falling apart? Is there where that thing MardisGrasMax would help because of knocking from the smaller pulley? Would I need that thing if I only went to a 3.125" pulley?
2.87" "should" give you around 13 psi. You listed all the drawbacks already.
Yes, MardiGrasMax's J&S Electronic retard box would definitely help if you're going to run that pulley.
No, you don't need it for 3.125" pulley. I'm not using it and I have the 2.87" pulley. With water injection and the 2.87", I only get 11 psi for some odd reason.
I think I know what I'm talking about. Hehehe
08-10-2002, 09:54 PM
#5
you live only like 4 or 5 hours from long island right? maximum tuning is doing valve body recals also. i have an appointment monday..but i have to leave the car there overnight. i dunno if that would be convenient for you or not..call up jeff at the store. hes having a mechanic do it for $375..or you could wait and i can tell you how mine goes..
08-10-2002, 10:01 PM
#6
Ok Kevin,
The gauge question is basically answered, I will get a Boost guage, EGT gauge. But now why would I need a fuel pressure gauge? what is going to help me in? Also side question, why are the apexi analog gauges like 200+ for each?
My bad, I meant to say AFC instead of RSM. So you highly recommend that. Now How do I adjust it according so I know I am on the ball. Do I have to set all the points on a dyno or can it be done just by watching my gauges? And how do I do that if I dont really have a a/f gauge? Im just scared on installing this and never fully harnessing the power of it cause it may not be tunned right and I will be off like 50hp. Now I know the S/C comes with a FMU, but why is everyone buying these new Walbro 255hp fuel pumps? Does the one that comes with the s/c not enough? or is it only good enough for a 6psi system?
Now lastly, why is this question of the intake piping is an issue on an Auto? I see alot of people who have it done and dont know what they did to get around it. Now I obviously want to do your CAI setup, but dont know if I would be doing that the same day or not, cause I need to rewire the MAF to be extended and what not.
Dixit
The gauge question is basically answered, I will get a Boost guage, EGT gauge. But now why would I need a fuel pressure gauge? what is going to help me in? Also side question, why are the apexi analog gauges like 200+ for each?
My bad, I meant to say AFC instead of RSM. So you highly recommend that. Now How do I adjust it according so I know I am on the ball. Do I have to set all the points on a dyno or can it be done just by watching my gauges? And how do I do that if I dont really have a a/f gauge? Im just scared on installing this and never fully harnessing the power of it cause it may not be tunned right and I will be off like 50hp. Now I know the S/C comes with a FMU, but why is everyone buying these new Walbro 255hp fuel pumps? Does the one that comes with the s/c not enough? or is it only good enough for a 6psi system?
Now lastly, why is this question of the intake piping is an issue on an Auto? I see alot of people who have it done and dont know what they did to get around it. Now I obviously want to do your CAI setup, but dont know if I would be doing that the same day or not, cause I need to rewire the MAF to be extended and what not.
Dixit
08-10-2002, 10:12 PM
#7
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,267
Even though you're ignoring the rest of us who have useful input, I'll post for prosperity and anyone else who cares.
For the AFC, you probably want someone who knows what he's doing to tune it for you like at a shop, or you can go on someone else's recommendations.
The upgraded fuel pump ensures that the correct amount of fuel is being supplied. The FMU controls how much should be supplied, but the pump actually supplies it. The upgraded pump does not come with the SC kit.
The intake pipe in the SC kit is for manual transmissions. The size of the auto transmission means the pipe doesn't fit correctly without modification. Honestly, I'd get the SC up and running before trying to set up the CAI or a BOV.
You're welcome
.
For the AFC, you probably want someone who knows what he's doing to tune it for you like at a shop, or you can go on someone else's recommendations.
The upgraded fuel pump ensures that the correct amount of fuel is being supplied. The FMU controls how much should be supplied, but the pump actually supplies it. The upgraded pump does not come with the SC kit.
The intake pipe in the SC kit is for manual transmissions. The size of the auto transmission means the pipe doesn't fit correctly without modification. Honestly, I'd get the SC up and running before trying to set up the CAI or a BOV.
You're welcome
.
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Ok Kevin,
The gauge question is basically answered, I will get a Boost guage, EGT gauge. But now why would I need a fuel pressure gauge? what is going to help me in? Also side question, why are the apexi analog gauges like 200+ for each?
My bad, I meant to say AFC instead of RSM. So you highly recommend that. Now How do I adjust it according so I know I am on the ball. Do I have to set all the points on a dyno or can it be done just by watching my gauges? And how do I do that if I dont really have a a/f gauge? Im just scared on installing this and never fully harnessing the power of it cause it may not be tunned right and I will be off like 50hp. Now I know the S/C comes with a FMU, but why is everyone buying these new Walbro 255hp fuel pumps? Does the one that comes with the s/c not enough? or is it only good enough for a 6psi system?
Now lastly, why is this question of the intake piping is an issue on an Auto? I see alot of people who have it done and dont know what they did to get around it. Now I obviously want to do your CAI setup, but dont know if I would be doing that the same day or not, cause I need to rewire the MAF to be extended and what not.
Dixit
Ok Kevin,
The gauge question is basically answered, I will get a Boost guage, EGT gauge. But now why would I need a fuel pressure gauge? what is going to help me in? Also side question, why are the apexi analog gauges like 200+ for each?
My bad, I meant to say AFC instead of RSM. So you highly recommend that. Now How do I adjust it according so I know I am on the ball. Do I have to set all the points on a dyno or can it be done just by watching my gauges? And how do I do that if I dont really have a a/f gauge? Im just scared on installing this and never fully harnessing the power of it cause it may not be tunned right and I will be off like 50hp. Now I know the S/C comes with a FMU, but why is everyone buying these new Walbro 255hp fuel pumps? Does the one that comes with the s/c not enough? or is it only good enough for a 6psi system?
Now lastly, why is this question of the intake piping is an issue on an Auto? I see alot of people who have it done and dont know what they did to get around it. Now I obviously want to do your CAI setup, but dont know if I would be doing that the same day or not, cause I need to rewire the MAF to be extended and what not.
Dixit
08-10-2002, 10:20 PM
#8
Tanman I aint ignoring you. I did read the thread and was informed. I just aimed the first question to Kev, the rest sort of kept going. Sorry I did not break off and make it a general question. I mean if you or ANYone can answer it, it is welcome, I wont flame. I just want boost and want to boost right.
What is the exact modification that has to be done to the intake piping? I mean I know you said get it up first, but what if I cant get that pipe up or get it to fit since I got no clue what needs to be done. I want to do the CAI setup straight off the bat, but time is the problem. If I can set it all up, then Im ready.
Also one other question that came to mind. What is the deal with changing the spark plugs? I dont under stand how/what this hotter/colder plugs mean.
Lastly, why is you have to remove the UDP and re-install the stock crankshaft pulley? I mean if it is a belt issue, why not just get a smaller belt that will fit. Or is it because the UDP is 15% smaller and this reduces boost cause it spins slower. Now if that is the case, why hasnt anyone made a stock size aluminum pulley to also ease up 5-7hp from that stock pulley?
Dixit
What is the exact modification that has to be done to the intake piping? I mean I know you said get it up first, but what if I cant get that pipe up or get it to fit since I got no clue what needs to be done. I want to do the CAI setup straight off the bat, but time is the problem. If I can set it all up, then Im ready.
Also one other question that came to mind. What is the deal with changing the spark plugs? I dont under stand how/what this hotter/colder plugs mean.
Lastly, why is you have to remove the UDP and re-install the stock crankshaft pulley? I mean if it is a belt issue, why not just get a smaller belt that will fit. Or is it because the UDP is 15% smaller and this reduces boost cause it spins slower. Now if that is the case, why hasnt anyone made a stock size aluminum pulley to also ease up 5-7hp from that stock pulley?
Dixit
08-10-2002, 10:59 PM
#9
Re: Supercharger 101, what do I need and dont need?
Hey BigDog, here's a few answers from me too if it helps;
1.) If you're an auto, I recommend the boost, tranny temp, and egt or a calibrated a/f autometer if you take the fancier a/f gauge route (I personally think you're better off with the EGT).
3.) Took me from about 7pm-5:30am after which I took a break to goto work, then from about 5pm to 11pm to finish up (yes, I didn't sleep for two days.. I just HAD to finish hehe). No problems though.. just had to tighten up the belt after 2 weeks and that was all..
4.) As mentioned above, I have an auto - but I don't have a VB yet since I just don't want to deal with Don unless I have to. I'm looking into other routes to take along with the rest of my tranny work, but you will see yourself - if you don't have the VB done one way or another, you will NOT be able to push your car (well, you can - but I wouldn't recommend doing it more than once to let your tranny show you not to do it again) Get a cooler too.. and if you want to get more out of the car, get a better TC too.. it's definately on my list
5.) Check the group deal forum; they're setting up a 3" ypipe GD from cattman - I've jumped on this myself even though I'm still at "Stock" boost - it will make a minor diff over a 2.5, but why not get it now as I'll be going to higher boost later where the extra .5 may make the difference. I'm looking at making sure I get everything I can out of the car..
6.) You're not a chick? Crap, guess I'm not gonna get any cyber from ya for answering all these questions .. BOO!
Good luck man.. if you got any Q's, fire away here on in private and if I can I will answer.. I've only had my blower on since July 3rd though, so I'm not quite done with "Everything" yet (note I missed question 2 as I haven't done much re. fuel yet)... enjoy !
1.) If you're an auto, I recommend the boost, tranny temp, and egt or a calibrated a/f autometer if you take the fancier a/f gauge route (I personally think you're better off with the EGT).
3.) Took me from about 7pm-5:30am after which I took a break to goto work, then from about 5pm to 11pm to finish up (yes, I didn't sleep for two days.. I just HAD to finish hehe). No problems though.. just had to tighten up the belt after 2 weeks and that was all..
4.) As mentioned above, I have an auto - but I don't have a VB yet since I just don't want to deal with Don unless I have to. I'm looking into other routes to take along with the rest of my tranny work, but you will see yourself - if you don't have the VB done one way or another, you will NOT be able to push your car (well, you can - but I wouldn't recommend doing it more than once to let your tranny show you not to do it again
) Get a cooler too.. and if you want to get more out of the car, get a better TC too.. it's definately on my list 5.) Check the group deal forum; they're setting up a 3" ypipe GD from cattman - I've jumped on this myself even though I'm still at "Stock" boost - it will make a minor diff over a 2.5, but why not get it now as I'll be going to higher boost later where the extra .5 may make the difference. I'm looking at making sure I get everything I can out of the car..
6.) You're not a chick? Crap, guess I'm not gonna get any cyber from ya for answering all these questions .. BOO!
Good luck man.. if you got any Q's, fire away here on in private and if I can I will answer.. I've only had my blower on since July 3rd though, so I'm not quite done with "Everything" yet (note I missed question 2 as I haven't done much re. fuel yet
)... enjoy !
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
<snip>
Well lets start with Gauges, I know I would want a Boost Gauge, and a Air/Fuel ratio gauge, and would the last one be the EGT gauge? But some people say if you have an EGT guage you can tell if you are running rich or lean, then there would be no reason for the Air/Fuel ratio. If so what would I put as the 3rd Gauge? And why does everyone pick the analog kinds instead of the digital ones?
<snip>
#3 I know the install it quite a whole day job requiring the coolant tank to be moved and alot of other things. But I am a man about doing it all myself, I dont like taking it to shops and paying for something that can be done with some friends. Is this possiblen for a first time S/C install?
#4 Valvebody recalibration??? Do I need this or not? I mean I know since I have an auto it is highly recommended but does it have to be done from MobilTek or can I get this done anywhere else?
#5 Exhaust, for a good S/C install you should definetely have a full 2.5" exhaust all the way back correct? I mean I dont have anything restrictive at the moment except by Bpipe which WSP is making me a custom one. But for the most part if you have a 2.5" from header back you should be fine correct?
#6 Lastly, now I am a man. So you know I want as much power as I can get. I know the pulleys come in alot of different sizes. I know the stock is 3.6" which makes about 6psi. Lets say I were to go to a 2.87" pulley which is going to do like over 13psi correct? What are the drawbacks besides stock internals and auto tranny falling apart? Is there where that thing MardisGrasMax would help because of knocking from the smaller pulley? Would I need that thing if I only went to a 3.125" pulley?
I will stop the questions here at the moment. Please only answer this thread if you KNOW the answer or have experience with it like HAVING a S/C. I dont want this to get threadjacked. I would like this to be as informative as possible and make it accessible from the FAQ.
Dixit
<snip>
Well lets start with Gauges, I know I would want a Boost Gauge, and a Air/Fuel ratio gauge, and would the last one be the EGT gauge? But some people say if you have an EGT guage you can tell if you are running rich or lean, then there would be no reason for the Air/Fuel ratio. If so what would I put as the 3rd Gauge? And why does everyone pick the analog kinds instead of the digital ones?
<snip>
#3 I know the install it quite a whole day job requiring the coolant tank to be moved and alot of other things. But I am a man about doing it all myself, I dont like taking it to shops and paying for something that can be done with some friends. Is this possiblen for a first time S/C install?
#4 Valvebody recalibration??? Do I need this or not? I mean I know since I have an auto it is highly recommended but does it have to be done from MobilTek or can I get this done anywhere else?
#5 Exhaust, for a good S/C install you should definetely have a full 2.5" exhaust all the way back correct? I mean I dont have anything restrictive at the moment except by Bpipe which WSP is making me a custom one. But for the most part if you have a 2.5" from header back you should be fine correct?
#6 Lastly, now I am a man. So you know I want as much power as I can get. I know the pulleys come in alot of different sizes. I know the stock is 3.6" which makes about 6psi. Lets say I were to go to a 2.87" pulley which is going to do like over 13psi correct? What are the drawbacks besides stock internals and auto tranny falling apart? Is there where that thing MardisGrasMax would help because of knocking from the smaller pulley? Would I need that thing if I only went to a 3.125" pulley?
I will stop the questions here at the moment. Please only answer this thread if you KNOW the answer or have experience with it like HAVING a S/C. I dont want this to get threadjacked. I would like this to be as informative as possible and make it accessible from the FAQ.
Dixit
08-11-2002, 12:26 AM
#10
I'm loving my Cartech Adjustable FMU. No discs to deal with, and very tunable on the Dyno.
It's the one thing I'm really glad Loren sent with the kit when I bought it from him.
http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.html
It pretty much eliminated he need for a S-AFC, although I'm thinking about getting one anyway, just to be extra well tuned.
IanS
It's the one thing I'm really glad Loren sent with the kit when I bought it from him.
http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.html
It pretty much eliminated he need for a S-AFC, although I'm thinking about getting one anyway, just to be extra well tuned.
IanS
08-11-2002, 02:00 AM
#11
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Ok Kevin,
The gauge question is basically answered, I will get a Boost guage, EGT gauge. But now why would I need a fuel pressure gauge? what is going to help me in? Also side question, why are the apexi analog gauges like 200+ for each?
Ok Kevin,
The gauge question is basically answered, I will get a Boost guage, EGT gauge. But now why would I need a fuel pressure gauge? what is going to help me in? Also side question, why are the apexi analog gauges like 200+ for each?
You can stick with those two other gauges since anything in addition will only make your cabin look like a airplane cockpit. A'PEXi gauges are expensive because they are electronic (some of them at least). They can give you a peak number, a warning when the measurement goes over your preset amount, and 30 second playback. They're ingiglo too. Hehehe
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
My bad, I meant to say AFC instead of RSM. So you highly recommend that. Now How do I adjust it according so I know I am on the ball. Do I have to set all the points on a dyno or can it be done just by watching my gauges? And how do I do that if I dont really have a a/f gauge? Im just scared on installing this and never fully harnessing the power of it cause it may not be tunned right and I will be off like 50hp. Now I know the S/C comes with a FMU, but why is everyone buying these new Walbro 255hp fuel pumps? Does the one that comes with the s/c not enough? or is it only good enough for a 6psi system?
My bad, I meant to say AFC instead of RSM. So you highly recommend that. Now How do I adjust it according so I know I am on the ball. Do I have to set all the points on a dyno or can it be done just by watching my gauges? And how do I do that if I dont really have a a/f gauge? Im just scared on installing this and never fully harnessing the power of it cause it may not be tunned right and I will be off like 50hp. Now I know the S/C comes with a FMU, but why is everyone buying these new Walbro 255hp fuel pumps? Does the one that comes with the s/c not enough? or is it only good enough for a 6psi system?
The pump that comes with the SC is enough to run all the boost you want (even up to 2.62"). All you need to do is change to the correct FMU disc.
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Now lastly, why is this question of the intake piping is an issue on an Auto? I see alot of people who have it done and dont know what they did to get around it. Now I obviously want to do your CAI setup, but dont know if I would be doing that the same day or not, cause I need to rewire the MAF to be extended and what not.
Dixit
Now lastly, why is this question of the intake piping is an issue on an Auto? I see alot of people who have it done and dont know what they did to get around it. Now I obviously want to do your CAI setup, but dont know if I would be doing that the same day or not, cause I need to rewire the MAF to be extended and what not.
Dixit
You might as well go with a CAI setup right off the bat. There's no use in buying two filter if you find out the automatic tranny fix filter is too big. Rewiring the MAF is no biggie. Just extend the wires. You've done stuff WAY more complicated than that.
08-11-2002, 02:10 AM
#12
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Also one other question that came to mind. What is the deal with changing the spark plugs? I dont under stand how/what this hotter/colder plugs mean.
Also one other question that came to mind. What is the deal with changing the spark plugs? I dont under stand how/what this hotter/colder plugs mean.
PFR5G-11 - stock plug
PFR6G-11 - one step colder
PFR7G-11 - two steps colder
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Lastly, why is you have to remove the UDP and re-install the stock crankshaft pulley? I mean if it is a belt issue, why not just get a smaller belt that will fit. Or is it because the UDP is 15% smaller and this reduces boost cause it spins slower. Now if that is the case, why hasnt anyone made a stock size aluminum pulley to also ease up 5-7hp from that stock pulley?
Dixit
Lastly, why is you have to remove the UDP and re-install the stock crankshaft pulley? I mean if it is a belt issue, why not just get a smaller belt that will fit. Or is it because the UDP is 15% smaller and this reduces boost cause it spins slower. Now if that is the case, why hasnt anyone made a stock size aluminum pulley to also ease up 5-7hp from that stock pulley?
Dixit
08-11-2002, 02:11 AM
#13
Originally posted by iansw
It pretty much eliminated he need for a S-AFC, although I'm thinking about getting one anyway, just to be extra well tuned.
IanS
It pretty much eliminated he need for a S-AFC, although I'm thinking about getting one anyway, just to be extra well tuned.
IanS
08-11-2002, 03:23 AM
#14
So this FMU comes with discs? Or do I have to buy them according to which pulley size I drop in?
So techinically if I get an aluminum crank pulley my theory would work. But then I was thinking, since the UDP underdrives the SC, if you offset it with a one step lower in pulley size would this be still going backwards since the UDP is lighter and does free up HP? I mean I know the pulley size to boost would be off, but techinically it would be off on all of them. I know this is stupid question, but just wondering if I can actually leave it on, if I can, I might be dumb enough to go ahead while I get the stock one looked at and possibly made in aluminum.
Now when you were talking about more heat created by the air and fuel, it creates little explosions, this is considered knocking correct? This is where the J&S device would fix this by retarding the timing correct?
Am I actually getting a hold of this and on the ball?
Dixit
So techinically if I get an aluminum crank pulley my theory would work. But then I was thinking, since the UDP underdrives the SC, if you offset it with a one step lower in pulley size would this be still going backwards since the UDP is lighter and does free up HP? I mean I know the pulley size to boost would be off, but techinically it would be off on all of them. I know this is stupid question, but just wondering if I can actually leave it on, if I can, I might be dumb enough to go ahead while I get the stock one looked at and possibly made in aluminum.
Now when you were talking about more heat created by the air and fuel, it creates little explosions, this is considered knocking correct? This is where the J&S device would fix this by retarding the timing correct?
Am I actually getting a hold of this and on the ball?
Dixit
08-11-2002, 10:13 AM
#15
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
So this FMU comes with discs? Or do I have to buy them according to which pulley size I drop in?
So techinically if I get an aluminum crank pulley my theory would work. But then I was thinking, since the UDP underdrives the SC, if you offset it with a one step lower in pulley size would this be still going backwards since the UDP is lighter and does free up HP? I mean I know the pulley size to boost would be off, but techinically it would be off on all of them. I know this is stupid question, but just wondering if I can actually leave it on, if I can, I might be dumb enough to go ahead while I get the stock one looked at and possibly made in aluminum.
Now when you were talking about more heat created by the air and fuel, it creates little explosions, this is considered knocking correct? This is where the J&S device would fix this by retarding the timing correct?
Am I actually getting a hold of this and on the ball?
Dixit
So this FMU comes with discs? Or do I have to buy them according to which pulley size I drop in?
So techinically if I get an aluminum crank pulley my theory would work. But then I was thinking, since the UDP underdrives the SC, if you offset it with a one step lower in pulley size would this be still going backwards since the UDP is lighter and does free up HP? I mean I know the pulley size to boost would be off, but techinically it would be off on all of them. I know this is stupid question, but just wondering if I can actually leave it on, if I can, I might be dumb enough to go ahead while I get the stock one looked at and possibly made in aluminum.
Now when you were talking about more heat created by the air and fuel, it creates little explosions, this is considered knocking correct? This is where the J&S device would fix this by retarding the timing correct?
Am I actually getting a hold of this and on the ball?
Dixit
SO I can go to a lower pulley size any time and just adjust it. No need to buy discs.
IanS
08-11-2002, 10:40 AM
#16
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
So this FMU comes with discs? Or do I have to buy them according to which pulley size I drop in?
So this FMU comes with discs? Or do I have to buy them according to which pulley size I drop in?
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
So techinically if I get an aluminum crank pulley my theory would work. But then I was thinking, since the UDP underdrives the SC, if you offset it with a one step lower in pulley size would this be still going backwards since the UDP is lighter and does free up HP? I mean I know the pulley size to boost would be off, but techinically it would be off on all of them. I know this is stupid question, but just wondering if I can actually leave it on, if I can, I might be dumb enough to go ahead while I get the stock one looked at and possibly made in aluminum.
So techinically if I get an aluminum crank pulley my theory would work. But then I was thinking, since the UDP underdrives the SC, if you offset it with a one step lower in pulley size would this be still going backwards since the UDP is lighter and does free up HP? I mean I know the pulley size to boost would be off, but techinically it would be off on all of them. I know this is stupid question, but just wondering if I can actually leave it on, if I can, I might be dumb enough to go ahead while I get the stock one looked at and possibly made in aluminum.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...rformance.html
We use a V2 S-Trim supercharger.
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Now when you were talking about more heat created by the air and fuel, it creates little explosions, this is considered knocking correct? This is where the J&S device would fix this by retarding the timing correct?
Am I actually getting a hold of this and on the ball?
Dixit
Now when you were talking about more heat created by the air and fuel, it creates little explosions, this is considered knocking correct? This is where the J&S device would fix this by retarding the timing correct?
Am I actually getting a hold of this and on the ball?
Dixit
Yup, you're asking all important questions... and yes, you're a man.
08-11-2002, 10:42 AM
#17
Originally posted by iansw
The Cartech doesn't have "discs". You just put it on a Dyno, adjust the top **** in the picture on their website for fuel pressure, and the side **** for when the FMU start working according to boost level.
SO I can go to a lower pulley size any time and just adjust it. No need to buy discs.
IanS
The Cartech doesn't have "discs". You just put it on a Dyno, adjust the top **** in the picture on their website for fuel pressure, and the side **** for when the FMU start working according to boost level.
SO I can go to a lower pulley size any time and just adjust it. No need to buy discs.
IanS
http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.html
I'm planning on using this with the turbo kit.
08-11-2002, 01:15 PM
#18
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
The Cartech FMU is a good buy.
http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.html
I'm planning on using this with the turbo kit.
The Cartech FMU is a good buy.
http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.html
I'm planning on using this with the turbo kit.
IanS
08-12-2002, 07:59 AM
#21
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Alright, then it is settled. I am going to get this cartech FMU as soon as the whole S/C is installed.
Dixit
Alright, then it is settled. I am going to get this cartech FMU as soon as the whole S/C is installed.
Dixit
You can just install the Cartech straight off.
08-12-2002, 08:10 AM
#22
Originally posted by iansw
Why not just buy it before you install the SC, then you don't have to install the Vortech, uninstall it, and then install the Cartech?
You can just install the Cartech straight off.
Why not just buy it before you install the SC, then you don't have to install the Vortech, uninstall it, and then install the Cartech?
You can just install the Cartech straight off.
Dixit
08-12-2002, 09:06 AM
#23
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Well my bad, I forgot to mention that after talking to a couple of people I dont think I am going to get the Cartech FMU since the Vortech one is going to do just fine for what I want it to do. I know changing the discs are a pain in the *** but once it is set it is set. I dont plan on pushing more than 11psi anyways.
Dixit
Well my bad, I forgot to mention that after talking to a couple of people I dont think I am going to get the Cartech FMU since the Vortech one is going to do just fine for what I want it to do. I know changing the discs are a pain in the *** but once it is set it is set. I dont plan on pushing more than 11psi anyways.
Dixit
The Cartech is adjustable with a screwdriver.
But whatever, dowhatchalike. Personally, I'd never run more than 9PSI on a Vortech FMU, but that's just me.
IanS
08-12-2002, 09:33 AM
#24
Used force to obtain Admin powers
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,107
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Well my bad, I forgot to mention that after talking to a couple of people I dont think I am going to get the Cartech FMU since the Vortech one is going to do just fine for what I want it to do. I know changing the discs are a pain in the *** but once it is set it is set. I dont plan on pushing more than 11psi anyways.
Dixit
Well my bad, I forgot to mention that after talking to a couple of people I dont think I am going to get the Cartech FMU since the Vortech one is going to do just fine for what I want it to do. I know changing the discs are a pain in the *** but once it is set it is set. I dont plan on pushing more than 11psi anyways.
Dixit
08-12-2002, 09:42 AM
#26
Jane you are right there. I know the vortech is not fine tunable, but that is what the Apexi S-AFC is for. That gives you 500rpm increments and abiity to set the Air/Fuel ratio on each increment. The Cartech cant do that, neither can the Vortech. It might be best to get a Apexi S-AFC regarless of which FMU you use.
That is why I dont see the point in getting the Cartech version. If you have other valid points, put them forward
Dixit
That is why I dont see the point in getting the Cartech version. If you have other valid points, put them forward
Dixit
08-12-2002, 10:04 AM
#27
Originally posted by bill99gxe
:goofy Turbo AND S/C? :goofy
Wow. :-D
:goofy Turbo AND S/C? :goofy
Wow. :-D
Stop spamming the thread.
Dixit, you can use the Cartech to get in the range of the a/f ratio you're aiming for... then use the AFC to fine tune the rest of the way.
It's the same as doing it with the Vortech FMU and AFC... but you can't run larger injectors with the Vortech FMU.
08-12-2002, 10:17 AM
#28
But I would only need larger injectors if I plan on boosting past 11psi right? If I go all the way down to a 2.87 like you have, would it be recommended to go to the 370cc injectors like MardisGrasMax did?
Dixit
Dixit
08-12-2002, 10:22 AM
#29
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
But I would only need larger injectors if I plan on boosting past 11psi right? If I go all the way down to a 2.87 like you have, would it be recommended to go to the 370cc injectors like MardisGrasMax did?
Dixit
But I would only need larger injectors if I plan on boosting past 11psi right? If I go all the way down to a 2.87 like you have, would it be recommended to go to the 370cc injectors like MardisGrasMax did?
Dixit
If you go past 11 psi, then it's a whole new ballgame.
08-12-2002, 12:10 PM
#30
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Jane you are right there. I know the vortech is not fine tunable, but that is what the Apexi S-AFC is for. That gives you 500rpm increments and abiity to set the Air/Fuel ratio on each increment. The Cartech cant do that, neither can the Vortech. It might be best to get a Apexi S-AFC regarless of which FMU you use.
That is why I dont see the point in getting the Cartech version. If you have other valid points, put them forward
Dixit
Jane you are right there. I know the vortech is not fine tunable, but that is what the Apexi S-AFC is for. That gives you 500rpm increments and abiity to set the Air/Fuel ratio on each increment. The Cartech cant do that, neither can the Vortech. It might be best to get a Apexi S-AFC regarless of which FMU you use.
That is why I dont see the point in getting the Cartech version. If you have other valid points, put them forward
Dixit
IanS
08-12-2002, 12:50 PM
#31
Originally posted by iansw
Because the Cartech is better than the Vortech FMU, and you can save your money and not buy a S-AFC, because you won't need it.
IanS
Because the Cartech is better than the Vortech FMU, and you can save your money and not buy a S-AFC, because you won't need it.
IanS
Why would just the Cartech be better than the S-AFC? Like I said, the S-AFC allows you to set the a/f ration at each 500 rpm increment. This is key since it allows you to maintain a better control over the a/f ratio.
Or am I wrong? Anyone with info, answer away
Dixit
08-12-2002, 01:00 PM
#32
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Ians, Im not flaming at you, like I mentioned from the start, I am just trying to figure this out to help others who are making the jump to boosting.
Why would just the Cartech be better than the S-AFC? Like I said, the S-AFC allows you to set the a/f ration at each 500 rpm increment. This is key since it allows you to maintain a better control over the a/f ratio.
Or am I wrong? Anyone with info, answer away
Dixit
Ians, Im not flaming at you, like I mentioned from the start, I am just trying to figure this out to help others who are making the jump to boosting.
Why would just the Cartech be better than the S-AFC? Like I said, the S-AFC allows you to set the a/f ration at each 500 rpm increment. This is key since it allows you to maintain a better control over the a/f ratio.
Or am I wrong? Anyone with info, answer away
Dixit
But yes, the S-AFC is more exact. It's really a money thing, I suppose.
(And I didn't think you were flaming me)
IanS
08-12-2002, 01:11 PM
#33
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Like I said, the S-AFC allows you to set the a/f ration at each 500 rpm increment. This is key since it allows you to maintain a better control over the a/f ratio.
Or am I wrong? Anyone with info, answer away
Dixit
Like I said, the S-AFC allows you to set the a/f ration at each 500 rpm increment. This is key since it allows you to maintain a better control over the a/f ratio.
Or am I wrong? Anyone with info, answer away
Dixit
08-12-2002, 01:47 PM
#34
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
SC for low end, turbo for high end.
SC for low end, turbo for high end.
CAN YOU GET ME A WRITE-UP ON THIS PRONTO AND FLY HERE AND HELP ME INSTALL IT FOR FREE THANKS I REALLY APPRECIATE IT AND OH BY THE WAY IT CAN'T TAKE MORE THAN A WEEKEND CUZ THATS ALL THE TIME I CAN SPEND ON IT AND OH DO YOU THINK WE CAN GO AHEAD AND DO THE 5-SPEED CONVERSION AS WELL???? THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stop spamming the thread.
08-12-2002, 01:51 PM
#35
According to their website it says
The S-AFC features a user-definable, eight-point, adjustable fuel curve that can be set in 500 RPM increments. The range of fuel adjustment is +/- 50% at each of the user-defined setting points.
Dixit
08-12-2002, 01:53 PM
#36
Originally posted by bill99gxe
CAN YOU GET ME A WRITE-UP ON THIS PRONTO AND FLY HERE AND HELP ME INSTALL IT FOR FREE THANKS I REALLY APPRECIATE IT AND OH BY THE WAY IT CAN'T TAKE MORE THAN A WEEKEND CUZ THATS ALL THE TIME I CAN SPEND ON IT AND OH DO YOU THINK WE CAN GO AHEAD AND DO THE 5-SPEED CONVERSION AS WELL???? THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[/B]
[/B]
CAN YOU GET ME A WRITE-UP ON THIS PRONTO AND FLY HERE AND HELP ME INSTALL IT FOR FREE THANKS I REALLY APPRECIATE IT AND OH BY THE WAY IT CAN'T TAKE MORE THAN A WEEKEND CUZ THATS ALL THE TIME I CAN SPEND ON IT AND OH DO YOU THINK WE CAN GO AHEAD AND DO THE 5-SPEED CONVERSION AS WELL???? THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[/B]
[/B]
Please only answer this thread if you KNOW the answer or have experience with it like HAVING a S/C. I dont want this to get threadjacked.
08-12-2002, 02:00 PM
#39
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
According to their website it says
Plus from that picture I counted 16 points on that screen. Kev you got the same gen? cause this is considered the generation2. Is that the same screen?
Dixit
According to their website it says
Plus from that picture I counted 16 points on that screen. Kev you got the same gen? cause this is considered the generation2. Is that the same screen?
Dixit
Yeah, I have the same one.
The S-AFC features a user-definable, eight-point, adjustable fuel curve that can be set in 500 RPM increments. The range of fuel adjustment is +/- 50% at each of the user-defined setting points
So you have 8 RPM points and you can do them in 500 RPM increments... so you can pick points like this:
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
5500
6000
6500
which gives you 8 points.