this is to put an end to the other threads.



This is the ONLY PROVEN and RELIABLE way of DECREASING stopping distances, and INCREASING brake pedal feel.


GET STICKIER TYRES (tires for you americans). Those 13" brake rotors won't do you anything when you have those 300 threadwear tyres trying to bring you to a halt.

Get 200 threadwear tyres and be done with it. the end.

 

yup, i can't wait to see how horrible my ABS kicks in when i take off my B F Goodrich G-Forca TA K/D's they are soo... sticky like the stickiest i've seen.

 

Sticky tires won't do jack for brake fade.

 

because the average maxima owner experiences brake fade cause SOOOO many Maxima owners road race their cars

but you do make a valid point. Sticky tyres do little for brake fade... they do something, just not as much as say, better brake pads, steel lines, higher boiling point fluid...etc

 

I take some frequent trips into some small mountains. I get brake fade rather quickly. And thats not pushing from turn to turn. I think the pads are really to blame. They really turn to goo.

Another downside to an Auto.. Theres no way I'm going to downshift it, it will leave me stranded on the side of the road for sure.

 

You are in Las Vegas according to your Profile. Is that, like, Las Vegas, Australia or something??

 

Yep, and Porterfield pads for the front at least .

Mike.

 

How hard are you pushing it? Are you braking late?

I ran my 2000 GXE a while back on a highly technical road course (SMMP if you know it) and only experience a little fade. This is with the stock setup...but with 18" wheels (which probably helped with some cooling). But, i was braking earlier than i could have.

I guess it's just people's driving manners that depicts how bad fade is experienced in their Maxima. Some people make it seem like the fade in the stock setup is soooo immense...me, it was noticable, but very easy to deal with.

I'm Scottish, raised in England, born in Vegas, living in Vegas now. But, you don't really want to know all that.

 

Now, THAT'S funny too!!!


ADMAN

 

yeah.. I was pushing it, but not hard.. I also didnt ride the brakes. But I have a feeling the rears could be sticking alittle (long story).

Anyway, the rotors didnt blue or show any signs of overheating, but the rear pads had gobs of material on the trailing edge. *that* cant be good...



is still a nice little drive.. Not a real mountain commitment, just some twisties. Everything the maxima was not designed for

 

speaking of brake fade....I felt it after 3 hard braking today...the brake pedal felt loose and seems like I've steped on a pillow. Loud noise when the car was about to stop. I can smell the brake when I parked my car....really bad. I just got my rotor cut this march now I have to deal with the pad.


I am looking into the porterfield R4S...

 

Someone recommended Raybestos to me. they said it was all the brake of the Porterfield without the dust. that appeals to me.

 

my wildwood compound D pads DUST A LOT but they grip so good and don't fade away at all when they get HOT HOT HOT. two times in a row panic stops(just to test them late at night on a deserted road) 80-0 and both times perfectly smooth and no fade and fast to a stop.

 

Check out the article in this month's Car&Driver regarding brakes. They took a WRX and installed various different brake kits from Brembo, etc., then compared the results with stock. Not much difference at low speeds, or for a single stop, but major differences after a few high speed stops. Major fade stock, little or none after upgrades. Also, they took the stock system, and put in aftermarket pads, big difference there also. Excellent reading, highly recommended!

 

Last weekend, I replaced the stock rotors & pads with Raceconcept Dimpled/Slotted Rotors & Raybestos PG Pads (all 4). After 350 miles the Raybestos pads seem to work well with the new rotors. The combination is quite grippy. Stopping distance is about 10% shorter, pedal effort is less, and no fade or judder. Dust is more than stock, but only because of the dimples and slots. If the Raybestos pads were put on stock rotors there would be no difference or even less dust. There is more noise during braking and even during cruising than stock, however the noise is now starting to go away, I think by 500 miles it will be like stock, except during actual braking where there will always be a little more noise than the stock setup.

 

replacing brake pads do have a profound effect on stopping distances and brake fade.

example, on my car, i did a 20min session on a 1.8mi road course, extremely harsh on the brakes.

ran EBC Greens (street pad). within 2 laps, i had major fade.
switched pads the next session (EBC Reds). never had problem with fade... they did fade, but not to the point where I felt i had no brakes.

rotors... blah, slotted and xdrills are a gimmick. stick with blanks. cheaper, just as good.

porterfields are the most highly recommended pads for street vehicles. Hawk Hp+ are great for street vehicles that see track time occasionally.

Don't get EBCs however, as they squeal and squeal. But, i've come to the understanding that my brakes squealing indicates that i have kick *** brakes....albeit highly annoying.

 

ya my wilwood pads squeal and squeal but they grip and have no fade.