Sh&t, F'n rotors may be going at 38K
#1
Sh&t, F'n rotors may be going at 38K
I have an 00 SE Auto. I just turned 38K miles. I recently got a set of Dunlop SP/A2's cuz the Toyos (16"ers bought early in 00) were starting to hydroplane. Anyway, now I'm noticing when I nail the brakes when going like 40-50+mph that I get some pedal vibro feel and the steering wheel dances from side to side in a quick motion, traveling about 1/2 inch from center point in each direction. It's not crazy harsh, and it doesn't happen when I baby the brakes going slow around town, but it seems like it could be the notorious rotor prob on the 2000's starting to surface. I'm looking for feedback on the odds of any dealer being sympathetic or am I basically f'd because I just rolled past my 36K warranty?? I know there was a TSB for this. Maybe the tire shop overtourqed my lugs?? Hmmm, that's something to check...
Think Nissan will help? Rotors should NOT go this early!! Especially with my car because I BABY the brakes all the time and pretty much always have.
Think Nissan will help? Rotors should NOT go this early!! Especially with my car because I BABY the brakes all the time and pretty much always have.
#2
Re: Sh&t, F'n rotors may be going at 38K
Originally posted by MNMax
I have an 00 SE Auto. I just turned 38K miles. I recently got a set of Dunlop SP/A2's cuz the Toyos (16"ers bought early in 00) were starting to hydroplane. Anyway, now I'm noticing when I nail the brakes when going like 40-50+mph that I get some pedal vibro feel and the steering wheel dances from side to side in a quick motion, traveling about 1/2 inch from center point in each direction. It's not crazy harsh, and it doesn't happen when I baby the brakes going slow around town, but it seems like it could be the notorious rotor prob on the 2000's starting to surface. I'm looking for feedback on the odds of any dealer being sympathetic or am I basically f'd because I just rolled past my 36K warranty?? I know there was a TSB for this. Maybe the tire shop overtourqed my lugs?? Hmmm, that's something to check...
Think Nissan will help? Rotors should NOT go this early!! Especially with my car because I BABY the brakes all the time and pretty much always have.
I have an 00 SE Auto. I just turned 38K miles. I recently got a set of Dunlop SP/A2's cuz the Toyos (16"ers bought early in 00) were starting to hydroplane. Anyway, now I'm noticing when I nail the brakes when going like 40-50+mph that I get some pedal vibro feel and the steering wheel dances from side to side in a quick motion, traveling about 1/2 inch from center point in each direction. It's not crazy harsh, and it doesn't happen when I baby the brakes going slow around town, but it seems like it could be the notorious rotor prob on the 2000's starting to surface. I'm looking for feedback on the odds of any dealer being sympathetic or am I basically f'd because I just rolled past my 36K warranty?? I know there was a TSB for this. Maybe the tire shop overtourqed my lugs?? Hmmm, that's something to check...
Think Nissan will help? Rotors should NOT go this early!! Especially with my car because I BABY the brakes all the time and pretty much always have.
#3
You're complaining because your rotors are gone at 38k...? I get new rotors at all four corners every 30k miles, new pads every 15k miles. This is pretty much moderate city driving and occasionally highway commute. I make it a habit of truing the rotors in unison with new pads, so I'm basically truing them every 15k miles. Brakes are high on my list of maintenance items because let's face it, you trust your life to yours brakes and tires.
I have a mechanics discount so I can get generic rotors for $28 a piece with factory Nissan pads. IMO X-drilled rotors are not worth the money. I've tried Powerstop and Powerslot rotors with Axxis pads, porterfield pads all combos but have since reverted to generic rotors and Nissan pads. The aftermarket pads would not last as long as factory pads and brake dust was a bigger problem if you went that route. Braking performance wasn't affected much either, not enough to warrant spending more than 3x as much (not including shipping) for the aftermarket rotors. A more worthwhile upgrade would be stainless steel brake lines. Even with the cheap rotors there was much less fade with the SS lines. Unless you're going to autox your Max, I can't justify getting aftermarket rotors besides aesthetic purposes (they look cool and don't rust when plated).
I have a mechanics discount so I can get generic rotors for $28 a piece with factory Nissan pads. IMO X-drilled rotors are not worth the money. I've tried Powerstop and Powerslot rotors with Axxis pads, porterfield pads all combos but have since reverted to generic rotors and Nissan pads. The aftermarket pads would not last as long as factory pads and brake dust was a bigger problem if you went that route. Braking performance wasn't affected much either, not enough to warrant spending more than 3x as much (not including shipping) for the aftermarket rotors. A more worthwhile upgrade would be stainless steel brake lines. Even with the cheap rotors there was much less fade with the SS lines. Unless you're going to autox your Max, I can't justify getting aftermarket rotors besides aesthetic purposes (they look cool and don't rust when plated).
#4
Wow!, that seems quite extreme. Everybody I know with Camrys, Corollas, Accords, basically any other non-performance vehicle, doesn't get/need rotors for a solid 60K. I've heard of changing pads more often, but rotors??? No way, I ain't buyin it. I know I've heard people on this board say their 4th gens are going 80K on original brakes. Anybody backing me up???
What "generic" rotors are you talking about again?
What are the best bang for buck aftermarket/generic rotor? I certainly don't want the stockers if I need new ones.
What "generic" rotors are you talking about again?
What are the best bang for buck aftermarket/generic rotor? I certainly don't want the stockers if I need new ones.
#6
Originally posted by CO2kmax
Go Stillen X drilled, matrix pads, and ss lines. That's what I have I love them, they are alot better than stock. The big difference I see is at high speeds. 100-60 very goooood
Go Stillen X drilled, matrix pads, and ss lines. That's what I have I love them, they are alot better than stock. The big difference I see is at high speeds. 100-60 very goooood
Did you buy the parts online and have a shop put it all together? Or do you do the work yourself? I wouldn't want to do myself, so looking for suggestions. At this point, I'm just going light on the brakes and hoping to milk them out for a while. What is the average cost to just re-true (shave/grind??) the stockers? Better off having dealer or someplace else do it?
#7
Sure you could get 50k or even more but as you'll find out in some of my other posts, I'm big on replacing maintenance items like brake rotors. 40k is about the max optimum life of brake rotors for a Max that sees the kind of driving I do. I live in a hilly areas and drive my Max like a *****.
#8
Originally posted by BoosttotheMax
Sure you could get 50k or even more but as you'll find out in some of my other posts, I'm big on replacing maintenance items like brake rotors. 40k is about the max optimum life of brake rotors for a Max that sees the kind of driving I do. I live in a hilly areas and drive my Max like a *****.
Sure you could get 50k or even more but as you'll find out in some of my other posts, I'm big on replacing maintenance items like brake rotors. 40k is about the max optimum life of brake rotors for a Max that sees the kind of driving I do. I live in a hilly areas and drive my Max like a *****.
#9
I used to buy Powerstop Xdrilled rotors from OptAuto.com. They were the best prices I could find on the net, maybe someone knows of a better dealer? But they were $100+ for the fronts. I remember it costing me $430 with shipping for only four rotors, no pads. Nowadays, I can replace all four rotors and pads for only $190. I buy from a local auto store chain called Foreign Auto Parts. They have a bunch of stores around New England, don't know about your whereabouts.
#10
Originally posted by MNMax
PRICE?????
Did you buy the parts online and have a shop put it all together? Or do you do the work yourself? I wouldn't want to do myself, so looking for suggestions. At this point, I'm just going light on the brakes and hoping to milk them out for a while. What is the average cost to just re-true (shave/grind??) the stockers? Better off having dealer or someplace else do it?
PRICE?????
Did you buy the parts online and have a shop put it all together? Or do you do the work yourself? I wouldn't want to do myself, so looking for suggestions. At this point, I'm just going light on the brakes and hoping to milk them out for a while. What is the average cost to just re-true (shave/grind??) the stockers? Better off having dealer or someplace else do it?
I've had the stockers resurfaced 3x's, the judder came back. Others have had them replaced, yes the judder came back. The stock rotors are garbage!
#11
Originally posted by BoosttotheMax
I used to buy Powerstop Xdrilled rotors from OptAuto.com. They were the best prices I could find on the net, maybe someone knows of a better dealer? But they were $100+ for the fronts. I remember it costing me $430 with shipping for only four rotors, no pads. Nowadays, I can replace all four rotors and pads for only $190. I buy from a local auto store chain called Foreign Auto Parts. They have a bunch of stores around New England, don't know about your whereabouts.
I used to buy Powerstop Xdrilled rotors from OptAuto.com. They were the best prices I could find on the net, maybe someone knows of a better dealer? But they were $100+ for the fronts. I remember it costing me $430 with shipping for only four rotors, no pads. Nowadays, I can replace all four rotors and pads for only $190. I buy from a local auto store chain called Foreign Auto Parts. They have a bunch of stores around New England, don't know about your whereabouts.
You say you can replace them for $190. Does that mean parts only? What about the labor? You put them on yourself?
#12
I do the work myself, it's pretty straight-forward. All you need is a jack, lug-wrench and 10mm wrench to remove the calipers I think. For a shop to do it, they should bill you for only 1 hour, so $35-50 depending on your mechanic. Hope this helps.
#13
Originally posted by MNMax
Wow!, that seems quite extreme. Everybody I know with Camrys, Corollas, Accords, basically any other non-performance vehicle, doesn't get/need rotors for a solid 60K. I've heard of changing pads more often, but rotors??? No way, I ain't buyin it. I know I've heard people on this board say their 4th gens are going 80K on original brakes. Anybody backing me up???
What "generic" rotors are you talking about again?
What are the best bang for buck aftermarket/generic rotor? I certainly don't want the stockers if I need new ones.
Wow!, that seems quite extreme. Everybody I know with Camrys, Corollas, Accords, basically any other non-performance vehicle, doesn't get/need rotors for a solid 60K. I've heard of changing pads more often, but rotors??? No way, I ain't buyin it. I know I've heard people on this board say their 4th gens are going 80K on original brakes. Anybody backing me up???
What "generic" rotors are you talking about again?
What are the best bang for buck aftermarket/generic rotor? I certainly don't want the stockers if I need new ones.
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
If u change them your self make sure u have a big C clamp, and the special tool to srew in the rear calipers. I forgot what the tool is called. It is fairley easy, hardest part would be to bleed them. If you can get to an air compressor get a power bleeder, makes the job very easy. Good luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM