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Possible way to Flush coolant?

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Old 09-26-2002, 07:30 AM
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Possible way to Flush coolant?

After reading almost all of the post concerning flushing coolant, I was wondering if this works? Please correct me if I'm wrong, this will be my fist time.

1) Disconnecting radiator hose, the one comes out of the engine that connects to the upper portion of the radiator (not lower). Block the radiator opening. Connect the hose with a new one to collect the coolant exiting from the engine.

2) Disconnect line to reservoir and open cap. Start engine and refill radiator with distilled water slowly without spilling. Do this until I see clear water coming out of the engine (What a waste of water).

3) Start adding coolant, with an amount of 3 5/8 qt.
8 1/8 - 3/4 = 7 3/8 (total - reservoir = amount holds in engine)
7 3/8 / 2 = 3 6/8 (to achieve roughly 50/50 mixture)
When almost finish, open air relief valve, until fluid comes out.

4) Clean reservoir and refill. Reconnect everything. Dispose fluid properly.

This means I don't have to be bothered with drain plugs...
Should I premix the coolant? Or the method above will eventually achieve 50/50 mixture?

Please give any advice and point out any problems.
Thanks
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Old 09-26-2002, 01:25 PM
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Why make things difficult?

Cold water will help close the thermostat and slow down the amount to the upper hose. Sure, there is always flow but it would be less. Cold water can shock a hot engine.

Flushing is overrated. If you drained/refilled your radiator/block every year, you would never need to flush.
If you must flush, do this:
drain radiator/refill with distilled water/run vehicle til warm/drain radiator/refill with distilled water/run vehicle til warm/
If you're in a hurry, screw the distilled water and run vehicle with garden hose pouring into open radiator. When coolant is clean, use the distilled water to remove the tap water.

After about 5-6 times repeating(with heater on to move water into core), you will have nothing but water in the entire system. Yep, thats alot of distilled water but walmart sells it for $.50 a gallon which is pretty cheap since the local pharmacy wants $1.20. I own my own distiller.
After final drain, refill rad with full gallon of pure antifreeze and then top off bottle and rad with a 50:50 solution. And, if you want to spend another $8, toss in a bottle of redline water wetter.

Whats wrong with the drain plug? or lower hose removal?
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Old 09-26-2002, 02:00 PM
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Originally posted by deadrx7conv
Why make things difficult?

Cold water will help close the thermostat and slow down the amount to the upper hose. Sure, there is always flow but it would be less. Cold water can shock a hot engine.

After about 5-6 times repeating(with heater on to move water into core), you will have nothing but water in the entire system.
I thought pouring water continously into radiator with engine running would simply push out the old coolant as it circulates the cooling system... Do you mean cold water does not travel back to the radiator?

and

Should I change coolant while the engine is hot?
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Old 09-26-2002, 02:55 PM
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I change the antifreeze warm. This way I don't burn myself. I don't like the motor to get too hot because of air pockets that might cause it to overheat(never happened yet) or if the kid/phone whatever interrupts me(has happened-lucky for garden hose being attached--car was super flushed and still cool when I got back to it after 10 minutes of running).

The water circulation is always mixing. It isn't a perfect loop. So, the 'pushing out' is never perfect. Even with the thermostat full closed there is coolant moving through the radiator and warm/cold coolant mixing.
So, cold water will travel back to the rad but not as fast as warm water. It is just a lesser amount. Thats why I prefer the drain/refill/run until warm/repeat which works.
I do not care for 'short cut' flush kits(which is like your step #1) that splice into a hose. I also do not care for 'ecoweenie' coolant recycle/recharge machines.

And yes, pouring water into the radiator constantly, with a warm engine, will simply push out all the coolant(overflows at cap and/or leaking out of drain plug) as it is circulating in the engine, the heater core, the WP, the radiator, and everywhere else. This is what you are trying to do. Remove all the old everything! The warm running engine will produce enough heat to keep the thermo open and there won't be any sudden temperature changes.

The initial coolant drained is what you need to recycle. The rest will evaporate/break down in the environment(plus it is heavily watered down) during the flush.
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Old 10-02-2002, 01:45 PM
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How's going?

How's going? Have you changed the coolant this way? The poured water will go through Engine first or Radiator first? Any experience? By the way, how about the air relief, do 5th has it?

Is this way better than drain/fill/warm/drain... way?

thanks,


Originally posted by F1 Rox


I thought pouring water continously into radiator with engine running would simply push out the old coolant as it circulates the cooling system... Do you mean cold water does not travel back to the radiator?

and

Should I change coolant while the engine is hot?
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