Finally, I got around to completing the write-up:
http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...=143972&page=9





Let me know if I can clarify anything. Sorry, but there aren't too many pictures, since this project was done in multiple stages and I didn't always have a camera.

Comments:
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I'm VERY impressed with this subwoofer and it's FLEXIBLE installation and SEVERAL wiring configurations. I am a serious bass junkie, but my lifestyle has changed and I'm no longer able to have a "pounding" super loud setup like I'd prefer. However, I still love the sound, but I'm not all bent on turning peoples heads anymore. Good thing too, since this is NOT a head turning subwoofer. It works EXTREMELY well inside the car and is plenty of bass IMO, but don't think anyone is going to notice. I've BEAT the CRAP out of this thing and it's performed NEAR flawlessly. The only hickup I've had was when it sat in the 110-degree parking lot while at work all day and then I started playing it at it's maximum level, which I believe caused the protection circuitry to kick in. No biggie, it just made me think my wiring was loose and I was losing the input signal, but ever since then I've never had that problem. If you crank the gain up past 3/4 with the level down in the low Hz and the volume up while using speaker level inputs, you will get distortion. I keep the gain right at 3/4 and the Hz almost as low as it goes and adjust the volume and bass ****(LC remote) to my liking for the type of song.

All in all, this was the best upgrade I've made for $199.95(BassLink)+19.95(LC Remote)+40(RF 8-gauge kit)+17(Fog switch)+10(misc.)=~$300 installed myself ESPECIALLY since trunk space is a PREMIUM in my car.

 

looks good

nice write up as well

 

Not my best, but good enough to help I guess.

 

Good job, Ive got the basslink-x and love it as well.

The only problems I have had is blown fuses right at the battery. I guess because I have a black car, and Charleston was built right on top of HELL.

 

Good job. I have one too! I mounted my LPL gain adjustment in a blank on the dash to the left of the wheel. I think it booms pretty hard, or at least enough for a 32yo person with eclectic tastes (Notorious BIG, Prodigy, Miles Davis, Bob Marley, Cure). Definitely worth the money. I added mine to a stock head unit. A few friends of mine remarked how much better it sounds than their cars (350z Bose and TL-TypeS Bose).

Works for me! Now I just need to do Kappa upgrades in the doors.

 

LPL?

Yeah, I'm pretty much sold on the Kappas. I just think I should wait until I upgrade the headunit, but then I'll need to add an amp.

 

IceY2K1, did you disconnect the stock sub in the rear deck? Or are you using it with the Basslink?

 

I don't have BOSE, so no subwoofer in the rear deck.

Sorry, I should have said this is for non-BOSE only. Oops!

 

Haha, it's all good. I think I would have realized if I weren't too lazy to go through your write-up. I have the Basslink also but lately I've had the feeling that I want more power.

 

Do you still have the BOSE sub in the rear deck?

 

I do. I was wondering how it sounds without it because I think the Bose sub contributes to a lot of the rattling. Nearly all of my passengers in the back tell me that it's the whole deck that rattles because of it. I've tracked down another rattle to the OEM jack too. I'm going to wrap that thing in a blanket or something eventually... heh.

 

If you disconnect it, you may as well remove it. The hole will act as a port and should let more bass into the cab(maybe some rattles from the trunk though).

IF you do this, please let me know. I've been SERIOUSLY considering cutting a port, but I'd like to know what difference it makes before I go permanent.

 

So I've heard. I don't know man... I'm gonna fiddle around with the damn thing when I have the time. I think another problem I have is because I have Bose. Since it's amplified at low volumes and all... whenever I try to listen to my tunes at 3/4+ volume, the Basslink all of a sudden sounds non-existent. The installers at Circuit City ASSURED me that getting the signal from the HU wouldn't sound any better than wiring it from the sub. I'm beginning to think they just wanted an EASY install.

Oh well.

 

I ran my wires a little differently, and mounted the Basslink on the trunk floor instead. I'm kind of lazy, so it seems like mounting it on the side take alot of work!

 

me too...

 

Excellent write up Alex. Good info for sure. I was going to do this mod also. I wish the basslink unit could mount on the rear deck tho. It doesnt look like it would be possible to mount there tho. What do you think?

 

Auuuuuugh. Maybe, but I wouldn't.

Any installation is possible with enough work, but I can't imagine how that would sound due to all the rattles in that location. My setup already causes some annoying rattles in the deck, but as soon as you put it in contact with the deck it would be MUCH worse.

If you have to have it on the rear deck I would look at "Ms. Thickness" freeair 10" sub(Kicker L??) install. That's the way I would set it up.

 

I get some TERRIBLE rattling in my rear deck and inner rear quarter panels, which are the only trunk areas I didn't dynamat yet. I did use Dynamat Xtreme on the trunk lid and floor...

 

Did the Xtreme on the trunk lid and floor make any difference?

I'm going to Xtreme the crap out of everything back there "one of these days". Plus, the doors once I get new speakers.

Is it pretty simple to install?

 

Ice,

Do you have the BOSE setup? I thought in a previous post that you didn't, but when I looked on your homepage, I see the BOSE HU. Also, for the Infinity, is it amplified or do you have an additional amplifier that you are running it through?

 

I don't have BOSE. I believe my headunit is different, but I've never really looked.

The BassLink has an internal 200Watt RMS amp. Do a search for the specs and if your looking for a killer price, I can point you to where I bought mine for $199.95.

 

Yeah, it makes a huge difference. The parts I dynamat'ed are rattle-free. I also have Bose, and I took out the sub, so that I've got the open port. Sounds better, and no Bose sub rattle!

 

Ooooh! Oooooh! Favor PLEAAAAASE!

Would you mind doing a little test for me. Pick your favorite song with strong bass and try a before and after test by covering up the hole from the BOSE sub in the rear deck. Basically, just throw a piece of carpet or something heavy over the hole to prevent any air from traveling through.

I want to know how much difference the "port" in the rear deck makes BEFORE I cut a hole.

Thanks!

 

can I use this on vqpower.com?

 

Of course.

 

I've basically already done this. I had the Bose sub in there for awhile. I didn't like the rattle or the sound, so I later removed it. The port makes a HUGE difference. And I like that I still have the Bose grille on the rear deck, so people think all that bass is from the puny little stock sub that was once there!

 

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=36

 

I was just curious why you used the speaker inputs and not the RCA cables?

Easier to install?
I was thinking of puting in the rca's but thought maybe it will start picking up engine noise.

What do you think?

Thanks...

 

Does anyone know were I can get this sub??

 

I have one and love it. I had it configured initially to pull from the rear speakers with high-level inputs. However, I later added a high-end kenwood mp3 model with separate sub out. I added the LPL gain adjustment in the same exact spot as displayed here. I don't think there was much of a difference between RCA/Line Power in as far as RMI/EMI/or Crosstalk.

However, if you have a unit with RCA...you should use that.

I also used the old "Peel-n-Seal" $12s for 25'x8" (Two of em) to do my entire trunk and trunklid. I used spray foam insulation to spray in between the decklid and the trunk ($5). I do like the sound.

Only thing I haven't mastered is the head unit adjustments in relation to the Baslink crossover adjustments. I would be interested to hear if anyone else has used the Basslink with a Kenwood 859 or above head unit.

The Basslink is sold through alot of different online e-tailers. Check http://www.pricescan.com for BassLink.

I'm curious about the useage of a Bose Grill for the rear decklid. With the seats down ghetto style, the sub pounds enough to hurt my ears. I would like it to pound almost that hard with the rear seats up.

How much was the Bose Grill? Is there a punch-out on the rear decklid for the Bose or does the Bose use an entirely different decklid?

Thanks for any constructive responses.

 

I have the STOCK radio, so I don't have RCAs or I would have used those.

 

Bump on a bose grill cost inquiry....anyone w experience on putting this grill cover on a non-bose rear decklid?

 

I am going to get this basslink installed at a local stereo shop but I know they will rip me off on wiring and such. Is there a kit from crutchfield or something like that that I can get and bring in with the basslink instead???

Neal

 

Yes, get the AMP wiring from Crutchfield or somewhere before you go to a shop, because they will charge you DOUBLE for the exact same kit.

 

What guage amp wiring kit should I get? they reccomend 10 guage I'd rather have as safe as possible, also are there diff. amp wiring kits that differ in quality?

 

I think I've decided on the Rockford Fosgate 8 guage wiring kit to be safe. One final question, there is in the DIY install of the basslink the part that shows splicing to the left and right side speaker wires. Is this what the car stereo place will do? I want to take out my bose sub and just use the hole as a bass port. In this case will I need to buy speaker wire as well? Maybe if someone has a list of what they used to take out the BOSE sub and use that as a port and then install the basslink into a 5th gen with bose that would be awesome. Thanks.

Neal

 

No, the BassLink comes with enough wire to tap the REAR door speakers/BOSE sub.

Most people with BOSE subs just tap the sub wires, because they are much easier to access. Otherwise, the rear doors require removing the interior pillars and rear seat.

I'm not sure if that's possible withOUT the sub. Should be, but not positive.

 

Can anyone confirm or deny that I can tap the sub wires even after taking out the sub? I gues sI should be able to tap the wires that went to the sub, or just cut them before the sub and splice them to the basslink wires... I guess I just need to hear from someone who had the bose system, took out the sub and made it a bass port and put the basslink in the trunk.

NEal

 

Do you have a picture of how you tapped into the positive terminal on the battery. I am planning on doing it myself and would like to see where other people have done it. Did you have to modify the red cover to make it fit? Thanks in advance for the advise!

 

What is the difference between Basslink and Basslink X?