Juddering brakes on 2000 Maxima
#1
Juddering brakes on 2000 Maxima
O.K., so the brakes on my 2000 juddered at 15K miles, and Nissan replaced the rotors under warranty. They juddered at 30K miles, and they turned them under warranty. I am now at 45K miles, out of warranty and, you guessed it, juddering.
Any suggestions to keep it from happening at 60K, 75K, etc.? How about a certain brand of aftermarket rotor, 01 or 02 rotors, Infiniti parts? Cross drilled? cryo frozen? Build cooling ducts?
Anyone got a fix??
Any suggestions to keep it from happening at 60K, 75K, etc.? How about a certain brand of aftermarket rotor, 01 or 02 rotors, Infiniti parts? Cross drilled? cryo frozen? Build cooling ducts?
Anyone got a fix??
#2
this is second hand information but i have heard of some having good luck simply replacing the pads with non-nissan pads and keeping the nissan rotors. i dont have an explanation but i had the same thing expect at 9k and now at 20k i can feel a slight vibration coming back. im planning on having the rotors replaced, one time they just cut them and then put on my own pads, either carbon metallic or bedix iq pads.
#3
Originally posted by sloppymax
this is second hand information but i have heard of some having good luck simply replacing the pads with non-nissan pads and keeping the nissan rotors. i dont have an explanation but i had the same thing expect at 9k and now at 20k i can feel a slight vibration coming back. im planning on having the rotors replaced, one time they just cut them and then put on my own pads, either carbon metallic or bedix iq pads.
this is second hand information but i have heard of some having good luck simply replacing the pads with non-nissan pads and keeping the nissan rotors. i dont have an explanation but i had the same thing expect at 9k and now at 20k i can feel a slight vibration coming back. im planning on having the rotors replaced, one time they just cut them and then put on my own pads, either carbon metallic or bedix iq pads.
If you have an 01, it appears that they did not fix the problem after the bulletin on the 00. I had a 944 Porsche once with the same problem, and ended up with organic pads.
#4
besides looking cool, the cross-drilled rotors don't seem to have that problem. perhaps the better heat dissipation, perhaps a better material they're constructed from, but i haven't heard of anyone's cross-drilled rotors warping, where that seems to be pretty common with the stock ones.
#5
Originally posted by schuss
besides looking cool, the cross-drilled rotors don't seem to have that problem. perhaps the better heat dissipation, perhaps a better material they're constructed from, but i haven't heard of anyone's cross-drilled rotors warping, where that seems to be pretty common with the stock ones.
besides looking cool, the cross-drilled rotors don't seem to have that problem. perhaps the better heat dissipation, perhaps a better material they're constructed from, but i haven't heard of anyone's cross-drilled rotors warping, where that seems to be pretty common with the stock ones.
I'm a gonna' drill them myself on my Craftsman drill press.
Any source for good priced cross drilled??
#6
Originally posted by LarryH
I'm a gonna' drill them myself on my Craftsman drill press.
Any source for good priced cross drilled??
I'm a gonna' drill them myself on my Craftsman drill press.
Any source for good priced cross drilled??
#7
Originally posted by jjs
Just take a regular old set of rotors out back and unload a 12 gauge at 'em...presto! All the holes you could want!
Just take a regular old set of rotors out back and unload a 12 gauge at 'em...presto! All the holes you could want!
#8
Re: Juddering brakes on 2000 Maxima
Originally posted by LarryH
O.K., so the brakes on my 2000 juddered at 15K miles, and Nissan replaced the rotors under warranty. They juddered at 30K miles, and they turned them under warranty. I am now at 45K miles, out of warranty and, you guessed it, juddering.
Any suggestions to keep it from happening at 60K, 75K, etc.? How about a certain brand of aftermarket rotor, 01 or 02 rotors, Infiniti parts? Cross drilled? cryo frozen? Build cooling ducts?
Anyone got a fix??
O.K., so the brakes on my 2000 juddered at 15K miles, and Nissan replaced the rotors under warranty. They juddered at 30K miles, and they turned them under warranty. I am now at 45K miles, out of warranty and, you guessed it, juddering.
Any suggestions to keep it from happening at 60K, 75K, etc.? How about a certain brand of aftermarket rotor, 01 or 02 rotors, Infiniti parts? Cross drilled? cryo frozen? Build cooling ducts?
Anyone got a fix??
#11
Originally posted by maseo77
can you really drill your rotors yourself?
can you really drill your rotors yourself?
No! I was just joking. The holes have to be at the proper angle to vent the heat to be effective and they have to be machined properly. Don't try this at home. I suppose if you drilled the holes wrong, it would whistle really loud when you are driving down the road. That would be annoying.
#12
Originally posted by LarryH
No! I was just joking. The holes have to be at the proper angle to vent the heat to be effective and they have to be machined properly. Don't try this at home. I suppose if you drilled the holes wrong, it would whistle really loud when you are driving down the road. That would be annoying.
No! I was just joking. The holes have to be at the proper angle to vent the heat to be effective and they have to be machined properly. Don't try this at home. I suppose if you drilled the holes wrong, it would whistle really loud when you are driving down the road. That would be annoying.
#15
This happens on my 03...
I just noticed it the other day when I hit the brakes hard from 70 MPH. I searched and the TSB doesn't seem to cover my year. Anyone else have this with a new Max?
I don't like the idea of them cutting my rotors, I'm going to demand new ones. I also don't like another 1000 break in period
I don't like the idea of them cutting my rotors, I'm going to demand new ones. I also don't like another 1000 break in period
#16
All I do is drive highway so my brake pads actually still look new at 50,000 miles, my 17 Potenzas are still good for that matter. But anyways, I had my rotors cut once by the dealer and the second time I took them off and went to Pep Boys to have them do it off the car. Lot cheaper than doing it on the car at Dealer $100 vs $12+my time.
But I've discovered that the almost immediately warp after I had my tires rotated both incidences at either a dealer or say "Town Fair Tire in Weth, CT" "So do you guys use torque wrenches"... "Oh yea, we do" Of course NOT! I see them tightening those lug nuts with the impact wrenches till I can't take them off at all without a 2 foot breaker bar!
No problems since I started torqueing the lugnuts and rotating myself. So I think it's part over tightening of lugnuts by impact wrenches that are also attributing to warped rotors...Just what I believe... another reason to trust someone else less with my car.
But I've discovered that the almost immediately warp after I had my tires rotated both incidences at either a dealer or say "Town Fair Tire in Weth, CT" "So do you guys use torque wrenches"... "Oh yea, we do" Of course NOT! I see them tightening those lug nuts with the impact wrenches till I can't take them off at all without a 2 foot breaker bar!
No problems since I started torqueing the lugnuts and rotating myself. So I think it's part over tightening of lugnuts by impact wrenches that are also attributing to warped rotors...Just what I believe... another reason to trust someone else less with my car.
#17
Brake Judders!
F-ing maximas! I am so tired of my brakes. I just changed the rotors last week and but didnt replcace the pads! bad move.. I went with the advice that changing the pads and keeping the stock rotors would help but no such luck. Now, i have to get new pads since the Axxis Metal Masters now are couple of months old w/my new rotors. BTW, does anyone have a recommendation/opinion on the potterfields pads? Will do rear rotors/brake pads/alignment/rsb all @once.
#19
Originally posted by young1976
All I do is drive highway so my brake pads actually still look new at 50,000 miles, my 17 Potenzas are still good for that matter. But anyways, I had my rotors cut once by the dealer and the second time I took them off and went to Pep Boys to have them do it off the car. Lot cheaper than doing it on the car at Dealer $100 vs $12+my time.
But I've discovered that the almost immediately warp after I had my tires rotated both incidences at either a dealer or say "Town Fair Tire in Weth, CT" "So do you guys use torque wrenches"... "Oh yea, we do" Of course NOT! I see them tightening those lug nuts with the impact wrenches till I can't take them off at all without a 2 foot breaker bar!
No problems since I started torqueing the lugnuts and rotating myself. So I think it's part over tightening of lugnuts by impact wrenches that are also attributing to warped rotors...Just what I believe... another reason to trust someone else less with my car.
All I do is drive highway so my brake pads actually still look new at 50,000 miles, my 17 Potenzas are still good for that matter. But anyways, I had my rotors cut once by the dealer and the second time I took them off and went to Pep Boys to have them do it off the car. Lot cheaper than doing it on the car at Dealer $100 vs $12+my time.
But I've discovered that the almost immediately warp after I had my tires rotated both incidences at either a dealer or say "Town Fair Tire in Weth, CT" "So do you guys use torque wrenches"... "Oh yea, we do" Of course NOT! I see them tightening those lug nuts with the impact wrenches till I can't take them off at all without a 2 foot breaker bar!
No problems since I started torqueing the lugnuts and rotating myself. So I think it's part over tightening of lugnuts by impact wrenches that are also attributing to warped rotors...Just what I believe... another reason to trust someone else less with my car.
I keep my own torque wrench in the trunk, and do it myself, even at the shop. They always look at me funny when I pull it out and start torquing.
#20
Originally posted by LarryH
I keep my own torque wrench in the trunk, and do it myself, even at the shop. They always look at me funny when I pull it out and start torquing.
I keep my own torque wrench in the trunk, and do it myself, even at the shop. They always look at me funny when I pull it out and start torquing.
#21
Originally posted by young1976
Really!? You just pull it out and start torquing? You walk right up to your car on the lift as they're still working on it? Wow! What kind of place doesn't have liability rules about letting customers go into work areas. hehe, I wonder if they would use it if I told them to use my torque wrench... hmmm
Really!? You just pull it out and start torquing? You walk right up to your car on the lift as they're still working on it? Wow! What kind of place doesn't have liability rules about letting customers go into work areas. hehe, I wonder if they would use it if I told them to use my torque wrench... hmmm
#22
Originally posted by young1976
Really!? You just pull it out and start torquing? You walk right up to your car on the lift as they're still working on it? Wow! What kind of place doesn't have liability rules about letting customers go into work areas. hehe, I wonder if they would use it if I told them to use my torque wrench... hmmm
Really!? You just pull it out and start torquing? You walk right up to your car on the lift as they're still working on it? Wow! What kind of place doesn't have liability rules about letting customers go into work areas. hehe, I wonder if they would use it if I told them to use my torque wrench... hmmm
I had a coupon for a comp first oil change at the Nissan dealer, and I was standing so close that I got oil dripped on my arm.
There is a problem with the automated car washes, though, as I always seem to get wet, and beat up by the big brushes.
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