I am looking at getting a Unorthodox Racing UDP for my car and I am looking for some feedback B4 I decide to get it. I have an Automagic and according in the link in the install section says to take it to a pro. Any feedback helps.

 

Pro's: No more power loss when ac is on...

Con's: Weaker AC, higher amp alternator is required if you are planning on adding stereo or electronic equipment, doesn't really do anything for performance from my experience, and average labor cost is around $100.

 

Agreed. It's a voodoo mod.

 

if you're not racing, then pulley is useless. you will only see/feel the results on the track.

 

I have a 2 amp system and don't have any problems with dimmimg of the lights.

Pros: 6.5 more hp to the wheels. rpms fly more smoothly. If you have an auto it will help regain some of your lost low end torque that your aftermarket intake took away.

Cons: $180 for the UDP and another $170 or so to have it installed. Helps and it's good, but it's not a good price/performance mod.

 

This is definitely a DIY mod... takes less than 2 hours to do it, so that'll save you the $170. And yes its worth it.

 

I disagree. The UDP recovers horsepower normally lost by underdriving the accessories. At the track, you are likely not running any of the accessories, so what horsepower will you recover? I think you'll feel the most benefit when you have the stereo blaring, the AC blasting and you're rolling the windows up and down like a madman. I could, however, be completely full of $hit.

I don't think Pro's and Con's works for the UDP. There really isn't a good con...there are just not a lot of pro's. You have to settle for the theoretical benefits if you go with this mod, because you will just not 'feel' the benefits like you want to.

 

Underdriving the accessories is a marginal part of the UDP, it's the reduced weight of the UDP that makes the biggest difference. The UDP works all the time, not just when you have the A/C or other high-draw accesserories engaged. Remember, the belt is always driving the pulley whether the A/C compressor is engaged or not.

Pros: Faster acceleration (ie faster acceleration mean more power)

Cons: harder to get smoother shifts with a 5 speed because the reduced weight of UDP allows the rpms to drop quicker, fairly expensive for a mod that only frees up ~4-5fwhp, potential charging problems when running a large stereo

I've owned the UDP for over 1.5 years, I've raced with it, and I've dynoed it. I like it, but it's not one of those "wow" mods.


Dave

 

If this is true, why not just use an OEM diameter pulley made of lighter weight materials?

 

You can install the pulley yourself even with an auto tranny. To get the bolt holding the pulley loose, use a breaker bar with a deep impact socket. Jack up the car and rest the breaker bar either on the front suspension control arm or the ground. Blip the starter and it should come free.

 

if you're not going for that last tenth off your 1/4mi time, then don't get it. this is one of the very last mods you should get. you will only see the difference on a timeslip.

 

The last mods you should get before you boost.

 

took the words straight out of my mouth!

 

Yeah, but loosing the tensioners is a nightmare. I wouldn't attempt this one alone. I can install an intake and swap out a cat, but I am confident I could not do this install.

 

Only one person at-a-time can actually have their hands in there. It is a massive PIA to get power steering belt tensioner loosened, but still a one-person job. You could do it asu174...if you can do the exhaust work and intake work, you can do this one.

Plus, nice to have the feeling of accomplishment once all the wounds on your hands heal.

 

I watched 2 accomplished mechanics take turns with the power steering belt. They had to use 3 socket extensions and an elbow joint to get that last one loose. I'll take a pass on it.....

 

Yeah, certainly wasn't the best time I've ever had.

 

The power steering tensioner is tough... but you can do it. Just as an example... If you are able to contort youself and your hands to get to the bolts that hold the rear suspension in, you can get to the tensioner....

 

I think it's worth it. You notce a livelier bottom end for sure. The install is a pain in the a$$ especially with my big hands, so if a hundo or so is no big deal, have some poor grease monkey do it for you.

 

Ooooooh....flashback.

 

Well you all have some interesting opinions and I don't think I will have a problem with shifting gears since i have an auto. I also have seen the problems the ASU174 had with his car with the pulley. As for my stereo I am only going to go with a 320watt amp so I don't think I will have a amp shortage. But for only 4-5 hp I have decided not to get one and focus on other modifications such as apperance Mods since I have a long way to go before I am done. Here's a list of what I still am working on and thank god it's winter here so I am not tempted to buy stuff.
1. Lowering springs
2. Shocks
3. Rear sway bar
4. Wheels 19's
5. Bodykit and new paint job
6. Carbon fiber hood
7. Cattman Y-pipe
8. Carbon fiber trim kit
9. Stereo
10. Rear rotors and brakes
And the list goes on.

SHIFT_Broke as a Joke

 

 

Yes, it will give you a bit more power and everything will run as before (i.e. A/C, lights...). However, the price doesn't justify the power gains. Move this mod down on your list and wait for a bargain. I got mine for $275 Cdn including belts (no tx ). Budget is working on making one at the moment. Wait for them. They also sell a great y-pipe at a great price ($250 Cdn).

 

I think the RSB should definately be your first mod, before the springs and shocks. For $120 you'll notice a world of difference. I would also get your Intake before the springs and shocks as you will notice an immediate difference with that mod as well. As you can see, I have an auto. Make sure you get the FrankenCar midpipe as it will give you back the low end torque loss that plagues all the Warm Air Intakes.