Okay guys, surely someone here who has remote start could take a look at the SECU and find out which wires are tapped. I will do a whole right up for everyone if i can find out for POSITIVE that the lock, unlock and disarm for the factory alarm. I'm keeping my factory keyless, but still need the lock wire to trigger, and disarm wire. I noticed last night while alarm was armed that f I put key in the ignition and started it, it would disarm the alarm. It maybe possible that you don't have to disarm the alarm when the remote start engages. C'mon guys, a little help. Car is 2003, but the wire colors for the 2002 are probably the same.

Shane

 

i have remote start on my 2000. i don't have an secu so i can't tell you much about what color wires you're looking for, but I am going to give you some other factors that you might not be fully aware of. you will have to bypass the key transponder in some manner and there are two "start" wires in our car that the old DEI diagram does not show ("Start" and "Cold Start"). If you were already aware, my apologies, but just trying to save future headache.

 

Thanks. Was worried about the cold start issue. Think I've got everything figured out and will soon start on install. Will keep everyone posted.

Shane

 

Mr.Smith,
a good idea would be to consult Mr.Don a.k.a (Pearl96Max). He knows everything about alarm system. Have you contacted him?


~limsandy

 

Mr. Smith, and Mr. Don.
Oh so polite. How sweet.
Couldn't help it Mr.Sandy.

Does anyone have it setup on a manual? 2k3 maxima here. How hard would it be to set it up on the 6spd. I never leave my manual cars in gear. NEVER. Just a habit. Unless i'm on a steep hill. I get paranoid in those situations so i leave it in gear if i remember.
Thanx

 

I should have all the info everyone needs by the end of next week.
Wire colors, parts, misc ....... Looks like its going to be a pretty simple process. About 125.00 in parts for the Valet 551t and 555U immobilizer. Right now looks like going to need a couple of relays for voltage changes on the 551t, but should be simple. This could be a really good and inexpensive mod for auto equiped guys out there. You manual guys are on your own!!!! I know a lot of the guys have remote start out there, but this will allow you to keep factory key fobs and alarm. You will only need to make about eight total connections to the SECU, so if it ever becomes a warranty issue problem, it can be removed quite easily. Will keep posted.

Shane

 

I've installed a Viper 800 ESP -and- a 551T remote start in my 2002.

Here are some things to note:

1) DEI sheet is wrong.
2) DEI sheet is wrong.
3) DEI sheet is wrong.
4) In order to do the door locks, you have to run 2 wires (minimum) into the driver's door. THERE IS NO WAY AROUND THIS (Trust Me). The reason for this is because there is a "door cpu unit" located in the door itself. It sends a bi-directional signal to the SECU. There is only 1 wire going to the SECU. And it's not a constant voltage. So you have to tap the wires in the door. Also, if you have the factory security, you have to tap the wires coming from the keyhole (going to the door cpu unit). Set the alarm to double-pulse in order to unlock. You WILL lose progressive unlocking.
5) There are 2 starter wires, so a remote start unit will require an extra relay to energize the 2nd starter wire.
6) The tach wire is located behind the instrument cluster. It's on a white connector. I don't know the pin number because I'm not at home where my documentation is located.
7) The PNP switch is available at the ECU pin #44. It's a 5v circuit, so you'll need a 5v relay. For automagics, you can also tap a 12v circuit at the shifter itself.
8) The factory security system will disarm if you start the car. It doesn't matter whether or not the door was ever opened. So you don't have to disable the factory alarm in order to do remote start
9) There is no "factory disarm" wire on the SECU or ECU. Use the door locks instead.
10) If you do not disarm the aftermarket alarm (thereby disarming the factory alarm) BEFORE popping the trunk with the aftermarket remote, the factory alarm will go off. This is because the factory alarm can't be disabled by a wire.
11) Use negative door lock triggers
12) Use negative light wire
13) You need a 555U to bypass the key transponder. This will require one key to be permanently mounted in the 555U.
14) There are 3 door wires. You'll need 3 diodes to isolate them. Should be SECU pins 1,2,3... Updated
15) Updated - SECU pin 13 is trunk-trigger
16) Updated - SECU pin 63 is trunk release (high current required)

My way uses the aftermarket remotes. No functionality is lost. Only problem (incompatibility) was step 10. Not worth giving up for such a small issue. If I think of anything else when I look at my documentation, I'll reply here.

Note: I don't know how ssmithmax03 has his setup, but I didn't need any relays for the 551t (other than the 2nd starter relay listed in step 5) So why you would need relays to invert voltage is beyond me.

 

Since I'm not using an aftermarket alarm and am using the Factory SECU to do everything, there are a couple of relays that have to be used.
(1) The lock motor trigger at the SECU is a positive output (gray wire) and the input trigger for the 555t is a negative. The double pulse lock is what I'm using to activate the remote start. One relay.
(2) Parking light output on 555t is negative triggered, so you have to use a relay for the positive triggered parking lights IF you tap at the kick pabel or fuse box. Not at switch.
I have located all the wires I need at the SECU to make just the remote start work with the (factory) keyfobs.
As a side note, last night while tracing all the wiring at the SECU and finding out the motor wires (3) Lock, Unlock, progressive lock
are at the SECU, I applied 12 volts to these wires and the door locks
all worked. That would keep everyone from having to run (single) wire into the door. Should be diode isolated and most aftermarket alarms are set up for negative door lock triggers. This can be remedied with relays of course. Code Alarm is one of the only manu that I know of that it is selectable at brain. You are right about the (2) starter wires, one is actually a cold start. I think I'll try tapping the tach wire at the ECU since I'm really not interested in pulling out the dash cluster. Found that wire last night also.
As far as all funtions of the factory keyless and alarm it should function fine. Since my car is an automatic, I'm just going to ground the neutral safety switch wire out of the 555t and not worry about locating it at the shifter. Hope this clarified a few things for everyone. I will post results and wire colors for everyone when done. My car is a 2003 if it makes a difference. So far according to the wiring guide I have, everything is right. It is not a DEI wiring guide. It is wrong as stated by Studman. I would also like to point out that even though I am a "newbie" I have been doing car audio and installation for over twenty years now. This is my third Maxima and I was one of the original members here five years ago. Could not remember my log in name so I just reregistered. I've already been flamed once for being a "newbie", but I promise that what ever info I list on this website, it WILL be correct. Happy remote starting everyone. Thanks for the response Studman, if everyone here helped out as much as some people do, it would sure make things a lot easier for everyone else.

Shane

 

ssmithmax03 - I have a couple of questions/comments:

1) What button(s) are you using on the factory keyfob to activate the remote start? And how did you tap them at the SECU.

2) I tried tapping the door motors at the SECU. When I used them, the doors did unlock. However, if I opened the door, the alarm went off. Maybe because you aren't using an aftermarket brain, you are able to avoid this (because you are using the factory keyfob). But if you use an aftermarket brain, you have to run 2 wires (1 lock, 1 unlock) into the driver's door.

3) The tach is available at the ECU as well. I'll get the pin/color info tonight. See later post for pin/color info

4) Tapping the lights at the switch is easier. Basically, you've already got to dismantle the trim around the steering wheel. Since you're there, use the negative wire for the lights. See later post for pin/color info

5) Since you're auto, the PNP/NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) isn't that big a deal. I did my girlfriend's Altima auto the same way. For those who are 6 speeds, hang in there... I'm still working on it.

 

did you also pulse the factory disarm wire? thats how you get around the door unlock at SECU problem. At least on a pre-2k2. Btw, I did follow your posts in the Audio forum, so I think you already said you tried that :/

I haven't tried this, but have talked to many people and the ECU tach wire isnt a reliable signal. I talked to some installers this weekend in fact and they confirmed that maximas were tough and that the best wire for tach was in the engine bay. That most customers complained about starting problems when they just used the ECU tach wire. Not sure why, but several Clifford installers also told me that as well as some discussion in the audio section.

But, I've only been following the 2k/1 info. 2k2/3's seem to be slightly different animals with regards to the SECU and ECU.

 

I'm using the (Lock) button on the factory keyfob. If you hit the button once, it locks and arms, hit it one more time and it activates
the remote start. That way car doors are locked, but factory security system is disarmed when ignition engages. When I applied voltage to the (3) lock, unlock and progressive lock at the SECU,it did lock and unlock the doors. Only thing is I had the driver's door open so the factory system did not arm. That maybe why with the aftermarket alarm working the motor wires with door shut your factory system went off. Did that make since?? I did have to double pulse for the unlock, but it worked. I'll try shutting the door and letting the factory system arm and see what happens. I know that with the window rolled down and opening the door the alarm will sound, so what your saying makes a lot of since. To be honest, that's why I elected not to do the aftermarket alarm and just kept my factory fobs.
Tach wire at ECU is (white/green stripe), found it last night and verified with volt meter. Also found parking light at fuse box, but it is positive triggered from there. Don't mind adding relay. Like I said before, this should be very simple. The only thing I have never fooled with is the immobilizer portion, but it looks straight forward. Just waiting on remote start and immobilizer to get here.

Shane

 

You are correct, the only wires that were run into my doors were for the window modules. Clifford is also able to do the above with relative ease. It is switchable in the CliffNet through the computer.

 

After testing all wires at the SECU, there is NO disarm wire on the 2003 model. Unlock is the only way to disarm the system or starting the car. I tried a single pulse on the unlock to see if that would do it, but it didn't. My Lexus worked this way.
There should be an ignition trigger wire at the SECU that you could send voltage to disarm factory alarm once ignition is engaged, but since the car does not have a factory ignition kill, it is a mute point because when the remote start engages it will disarm the factory alarm. I always run at least a 12g wire from the battery for the remote start voltage and relays, so worse case scenario I'll run a 16g wire to hook up tach signal at coil if ECU doesn't work. I know there is also wire at guage cluster, but I don't feel like removing it. Hopefully all goes well. When i'm done i have to do my bud's car (Beatermax200 this site) next. A little different wiring but shouldn't be a problem either.

Shane

 

Some installation help from my Viper 800 ESP and 551T Remote Start (including a 555U) install on a 2002 Max

Door Pin Switches:
SECU - Pin 1 - Light Green - Driver's Door
SECU - Pin 2 - Red/Blue Stripe - Passenger's Door
SECU - Pin 3 - Red/White Stripe - Rear Doors (both of them)
---> Grounded when door is open

Hood Pin Switch:
SECU - Pin 6 - Yellow/Red Stripe
---> Grounded when hood is open

Trunk Pin Switch:
SECU - Pin 13 - Purple/Yellow Stripe
---> Grounded when trunk is open

Trunk Release:
SECU - Pin 63 - Blue
---> Applying high current +12v will open trunk

Tachometer:
Location 1 - Behind Dash Cluster (more reliable) - Pin 16 - White/Green Stripe
Location 2 - ECU (less reliable) - Pin 34 - White/Green Stripe
---> Uses A/C Voltage

Brake Switch:
Above Brake Pedal - Pin 2 - Red/Green Stripe
---> Will show +12v when pedal is pressed
---> NOTE: There are 2 switches installed on the brake pedal, be sure to get the correct one. The other switch is Green/Red Stripe. That is wired backwards (Gets ground when pedal is pressed).

Lights:
Location 1 - At Headlight Switch - Pin 11 - Light Blue
Location 2 - At SECU - Pin 20 or 58 - Light Blue
---> Ground to activate lights on

Door Locks:
At Driver's Door Switch - Pin 6 - Orange/Black Stripe - Lock
At Driver's Door Switch - Pin 1 - Orange/Blue Stripe - Unlock
---> Ground to lock/unlock
---> Unlock requires 2 pulses (will lose progressive unlock)

Starter Kill:
At Ignition Switch - Pin 5 - Black/Red Stripe
---> Cut this wire and insert starter kill relay

*****************************

Remote Start Information:

+12v - At Ignition Switch - Pin 1 - Blue
Accessory - At Ignition Switch - Pin 2 - White/Blue Stripe
Ignition 1 - At Ignition Switch - Pin 3 - Black/Yellow Stripe
Ignition 2 - At Ignition Switch - Pin 4 - Red
Starter 1 - At Ignition Switch - Pin 5 - Black/Red Stripe
Starter 2 - At Ignition Switch - Pin 6 - Black/White Stripe
---> Ignition 1 wire has power during start
---> Ignition 2 wire does not have power during start
---> Starter 1 wire is actual starter

Clutch Bypass Switch
Above Clutch - Pin 1 - Light Blue
---> Apply ground to make car think clutch is pressed

Park/Neutral Switch (PNP)
ECU - Pin 44 - See notes below
---> Will be Green/White Stripe for Manuals
---> Will be Green/Orange Stripe for Autos
---> Shows +5v when car is in gear other than park/neutral
---> Grounded when in park/neutral

555U Information
--->Wire the 555U up to the remote start's activation wire. This way the 555U is only active during remote start. The NVIS system in the Max is very sensitive. Slightly adjusting the wire loop around the keyhole can cause the unit to work (or not work). Be careful. When testing the overall install, hold a key next to the ignition switch. If all performs well, then play with the 555U's loop wire.

 

I have the new Viper 790XV security system with remote start installed on a 2k3 Max and the factory alarm is still fully functional as well.The only problems I am having at the moment,but plan to resolve Sunday,is that when the Max is started with the remote and then turned off with the remote the lights remain on.The 2-way communication between the Max and the remote is pretty cool all triggers are displayed on the remote if triggered,and start conformation,too.It is also true that you must go into the door to wire the door locks.The locks are definitely double pulse.

 

I could see how that would happen if you tapped the "auto" portion of the switch instead of the parking lights. The auto portion will remain on for about 1-3 mins after the car is turned off.