BLaZin 2k MaX

I burnt my headlight connectors because of my aftermarket bulbs, and I ordered two more connectors and there are three wires comming out of them I have to cut the current connnector off and wire these new ones on. I have a question, is there anything I need to know other then cut the wires, wire the new connector wires with the wires comming out of the car and cover the wires with electric tape? I dont really want to mess with my electrical system but Nissan wanted $200.00 in labor just to connect one of the connectors and they only cost $15.00, thats ludacris. I'd appriciate anybodys feedback because I havent been able to drive my car for 6 nights and I'm hopeing to get it done so I can take it out tonight.

lcf

iTrader: (6)

What bulbs were they?

(So we can all avoid them.)

BLaZin 2k MaX

I dont know off hand but ill find out for you but right now im in need of help!

kramerica72

Use electrical connectors and splice the new connectors on to your existing wiring. Simple job-
And hopefully you did't melt any other part of the wiring!

BLaZin 2k MaX

I'v been working on it and this **** isnt working. I dont know what to do now, what the hell could be wrong?

kramerica72

Do you have a test light so you can check for current at the connector?

BLaZin 2k MaX

No but im gonna go buy one tomorrow.

studman

First, test all connections to verify that they are the correct wires on each end. Then, pick a method below to join the wires together. The Butt-Connector method is the most solid and long lasting. The 3M tap method is second, and the soldering method is last.

Using Butt-Connectors:

Slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing (that is long enough to cover the entire butt-connector and about 1/2 inch of wire on each side) over one end of the wires and out of the way for now. Strip back a little bit of the wiring insulation on each side, insert the end into the butt-connector, and crimp the wire well. Tug on the wire gently (but firmly) to verify the crimp was solid. Crimp the other side as well. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over the butt-connector and both wires (so the connection is completely covered). Then shrink the tubing using a heat gun (or hair dryer). Then wrap the entire thing in electrical tape. That should help you avoid any water damage. Then wire tie the 3 wires on BOTH ends before the electrical tape. This will make sure that there is no excess strain on the butt-connector and the joints.

Using 3M Taps:
Follow the directions with the 3M taps to make the connection. Wrap the connection in electrical tape. Use wire ties on each end of the 3 taps to avoid excess strain on the taps.

Using Solder:
Strip back a little bit of the wiring insulation on each side. Twist the 2 wires together. Then heat up a soldering iron. Heat up the wire (not the solder) and then apply solder to the entire exposed wire. Cover the exposed wire with heat-shrink tubing, and then wrap in electrical tape. Then wire tie the 3 wires together to relieve strain on the solder joint.

BLaZin 2k MaX

I know how to wire them but the problem is, that when I do get them wired it doesnt turn on. Does it matter which wires I wire together bc the new connector I bought is all black wires and whats comming out of the car is a red, green, and blue wires? Thanks for taking your time in helping me.

studman

Yes it does matter. The only way to identify which wire is which (from the car harness) is to test the voltage at each wire, change the light switch to another setting, and test again. Then you can wire up the new connector to the car's harness using the instructions provided with the new connector. Also, check to make sure you didn't also blow the fuse for the headlamps. Look in your owner's manual and it will tell you where they are and the amperage. The headlamp fuses are located next to the battery on the driver's side of the engine bay.

BLaZin 2k MaX

Man I really appricate your help studman, but I have a question your telling me to change the light switch to another setting I dont get it . My driver side headlamp is working fine so im sure I didnt burn a fuse. How does testing the voltage tell me which wire goes to which?

SG01MaxSE

I think he means that, if you turn the switch to "parking lights", then only the wire for the parking lights will be "hot". Same with blinker, etc... That way, you can determine which black wire goes to which colored wire.

BLaZin 2k MaX

But it is only the headlight connector which has the three black wires coming out, so then how do I know which wire goes to which?

kramerica72

Didn't you mark the top, left and right wires of the connector before you cut them off?

If not, unplug the other side and see which one has current for high beam, low beam, etc.. and connect them the same on the other side.

BLaZin 2k MaX

I did that and still no light.

studman

Per the ESM:

Terminal 1 is the low beam power wire. It should show +12v when the low beam is on.

Terminal 2 is the ground wire for the low beams. It should always show ground, even when the headlights are off.

Terminal 3 is the power wire for the parking lights. It should only show power when the parking/headlights are on.

Terminal 4 is the high beam power wire. It should show +12v when the high beam is on.

Terminal 5 is the ground wire for the high beams. It should show ground when the high beam is on.

***************

Color Codes:
Driver's Side
Terminal 1 is Blue
Terminal 2 is Black with a Yellow Stripe
Terminal 3 is Red with a Yellow Stripe
Terminal 4 is Purple
Terminal 5 is Blue with a White Stripe

Passenger's Side
Terminal 1 is Red with a Blue Stripe
Terminal 2 is Black with a Yellow Stripe
Terminal 3 is Red with a Yellow Stripe
Terminal 4 is Orange with a Black Stripe
Terminal 5 is Blue-Green (light Blue on some models)

***************

Terminal 1 (power) and 2 (ground) power the low beams
Terminal 4 (power) and 5 (ground) power the high beams
Terminal 3 (power) and 2 (ground) power the parking lamps

***************

There are 2 connectors entering the headlight housing. One has 3 wires, the other has 2.

The one with 2 wires is the high beam connector. If the notch is on top, pin 4 is to the left, pin 5 is to the right.

The one with 3 wires is the low beam/parking light connector. If the notch is on top, pin 1 is to the left, pin 2 is in the middle, and pin 3 is to the right.

You can verify this by matching up your connector to the factory's wire on the opposite side of the car. The connector numbering is the same on both sides.

Hopefully this helps you with what you're needing. Good luck.

BLaZin 2k MaX

Ok by terminal you mean???? And also there are only three wires where are the other two located???? Man Studman your experiance has been alot of help for me thanks.

studman

Terminal = one wire in the connector

Look at the wires coming from the new connector. Align the connector so the tab is up, and then locate wire 1. You may need to look at the non-burnt factory connector (and which color wire goes where) to determine if wire 1 is closest to the driver's side or the passenger's side.

Once you know where wire 1 is, then you can tap the car's wire to that wire like I previously stated in this post.

The connector you bought does not include the high beam wires. It's a seperate connector on the headlamp housing, so there are only 3 wires in the one you got. The other 2 wires (wires 4 and 5) are in a different connector elsewhere on the headlamp assembly. You are not concerned about that one at all. Go look under your hood and you'll see what I mean.

2kMAXLou

Get yourself some "Crimp and Seal" butt connectors from a good parts supply store, They are a little pricey but they are what you need for splices that are subject to weather..
They're the ones you heat up after crimping to melt them and produce a sealing glue to keep the wiring from deteriorating due to moisture.

As for the connections....Studman summed it up pretty good already.

Good Luck!