spta97

iTrader: (1)

So I FINALLY got around to installing my $35 (shipped) BOMZ FSTB last night on my 2k3. I eneded up getting some 10 mm washers in advance which helped during the install. When I put it on there was some sort of hose on the passenger side that was a little in the way. When I put the bar on it was pushing on this hose so I decided to put a washer on each bolt driver and passenger side.

After that, there were no problems at all. It cleared the manafold by at least an inch and didn't seem to have any problems with the hood. I took it for a ride and immediately noticed the improvement! The front end just seemed more "solid" and there was less roll when going around corners.

For $35, you would be out of your mind not to get this. I want to run with this for a little while then I"ll be installing my Cattman RSB.

MadMax1996

iTrader: (1)

Hey I just got one of those too but I didn't use any washers. I know the hose you're talking about but that wasn't my problem. I noticed the hood bulging when I put the car in reverse...doh! I promptly pulled the bar off.

I was trying to adjust it by tilting the bar forward (I think) but when I loosened up the nut and bolt on the drivers side it got all effed up..it like siezed on itself or something.. I had a ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other and that sucker won't budge!! Nothing a dremel can't fix I can get a replacement but and bolt at the hardware store...

Anyway, did you put these washers under the mounting plates? And if so, how many did you use on each stud? I think this may be my route also. It seems like the bar sits awfully high to begin with.. but if it works for you I guess I should be fine.

When you were said and done does the bar lie flat or tilted forward or back?

Thanks in advance....

spta97

iTrader: (1)

Ouch! Sounds like you had some issues there. I didn't look to see if the hood was buldging as I just backed into my g/f's car on X-mas eve so I'm looking behind me when going in reverse. I was listening for sounds when I did go in reverse (that seems to be the most common problem) but I heard none.

When I first installed it I put the hood down VERY slowly and looked to see if it touched (as best I could) but it cleared fine. I actually have not tried my windshield washers yet (dont' really use them anyway) but the hood didn't move at all when I finally closed it.

Quote:

I was trying to adjust it by tilting the bar forward (I think) but when I loosened up the nut and bolt on the drivers side it got all effed up..it like siezed on itself or something.. I had a ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other and that sucker won't budge!! Nothing a dremel can't fix I can get a replacement but and bolt at the hardware store...

Which nut and bolt are you talking about? The one that runs through the bar that holds it onto the mounting plates? Once the mounting plates are tightened, the seem to hold the bar so it can't move. I had to make a minor adjustment to the bar and ended up having to losen the mouning plate bolts (on the strut towers).

Quote:

Anyway, did you put these washers under the mounting plates? And if so, how many did you use on each stud? I think this may be my route also. It seems like the bar sits awfully high to begin with.. but if it works for you I guess I should be fine.

I put one 10mm washer on each bolt UNDER the mounting plate. This raised it slightly so it gave me the clearance that I needed for the hose.

Quote:

When you were said and done does the bar lie flat or tilted forward or back?

The bar lies flat. Also, I think that the bolts on the side of the bar (that hold it to the strut towers) were extended about 2 1/4". I made sure to measure them so it was even on both sides. Basically trial and error...helped to have someone holding the other side of the bar.

Quote:

Thanks in advance....

No problem! Just let us know how it worked out!

RAZORFISH228

I had the same problem but there is this plate which is glued on with silicon or something that was blocking my Strut Tower Bar and I didn't want to take the plate off so I returned it and got a refund. I only have like 2k miles on my 2k3SE and didn't want to modify it yet. My problem was on the drivers side.

I'm going to take some pics and show you guys.

SoloMaxima

the bomz fit nicely on my 2k1...only problem was that i had a tough time unscrewing one of the bolts...

spta97

iTrader: (1)

Is everyone talking about the:

BOMZ FSTB ?

(the one in the pic is for a different car, but same color and finish).

I'm gonna have to take a pic of mine as well to see where you guys are having the problem.

SMX

I had the same problem with engine hitting the bar in reverse. I tried to remove the bar but the bolts won’t move! I tried both sides and they won’t move an inch. I had to remove the bar by remove the hold mounting plate. I don’t get it…. I never had that problem with other FSTB, but I just use the Dremel on that section.

MadMax1996

iTrader: (1)

Yup exactly - I had to remove it by undoing the mounting plates also. It's been so cold (18 deg F) that I just haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet.

I have the actual Bomz bar (kind of a flat bar w/ the Bomz logo on it). I'm glad I'm not the only one w/ these issues.

spta97

iTrader: (1)

And this is on a 2k3 with the BOMZ bar????? WTF is everyone BUT me having a problem with this? I've gotta take some pics tonight...

Maximax2

I have the BOMZ on my 2k3, and the only issue I have is noise if I nail it in reverse (which I rarely do). Presumably the noise comes from the bar touching the engine, although I can't prove that because when I've watched it, can't see where it hit.

Anyway, I didn't use washers but angled the bar (think it's almost flat, but tilted just a bit to the back - have to check). Anyway, you can increase clearance by adding the recommended preload. Other than that, no problems.

spta97

iTrader: (1)

The clearance on my bar between the manifold has got to be at least 1". I can easily stick my hand in there with no problems. How is it possible that we have the same car and the same bar with there being such a dramatic difference in the clearance of the manifold? I'm gonna take some pics tonight, can you do the same?

I have to check that "hood buldging when going in reverse" thing because that was really my only concern (hitting the hood) after doing the install.

Weird

SMX

When I finally got the bar off you could see mark on the bar where the engine was hitting it.

bk2kmax

I bought the BOMZ FSTB and I haven't installed it yet either cause just like MadMax>it's just been too cold. Anyway, congrats to all who got the $12 deal.

Also it's good to know that SoloMax didn't have any probs with the install since I have a 2k, I shouldn't have any probs either. Soon as it warms up I'll put it on and let you guys know if I had any probs.

spta97

iTrader: (1)

Here are the pics. I wish I could just paste them but the 50k limit killed that idea. What are we supposed to post? Thumbnails? Anyway, check out the bar on my 2k3. Just to recap, I used 10mm washers under each bolt driver and passenger side.

Installed BOMZ FSTB

Passenger side hose clearance problem

Clearing the manifold

I did notice tonight that my windsheild washer fluid sqirts with less pressure than it should. Not really a big deal cause I never use it, but others have just moved the hose a little I think. If it presents that much of a problem I'll take a look at it.

For the other 2k3 people with install problems - is this the same bar you got?

MadMax1996

iTrader: (1)

Yup, that's the exact bar I have. Crap so I now I can have issues w/ the washer nozzles?? I need it being in an area with snow and salt and crap getting kicked up all the time....argh.

Why can't anything be SIMPLE????

capmaxima99

Can you remove that Bomz sticker or decal or whatever it is on the strut bar. I like the bar, but not the decal. Thanks.


Chris

SMX

Mines was not a decal, its paint

spta97

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I guess we have to ask Nissan how to remove it...they seem to be the experts.

spta97

iTrader: (1)

If you look at the first pic, it seems fairly easy to shift the hoses around. It did sqirt to about 1/2 way up the windsheild, but I was expecting more. I could be wrong because now that I think about it I've never used them before. I was comparing it to other car's that I've had where it comes out like a jet.

I didn't want to play around with them too much as I just waxed the car last night. It was so cold in NY when I washed it yesterday that the water was freezing on the roof! I had to pull it in the garage to get it to thaw out! You won't here any excuses from me about my car being dirty...unless it is snowing.

Maximax2

Not sure there is a difference - my clearance is probably around an inch too, but I still get the weird groaning / grinding noise when accelerating hard in reverse. By increasing the clearance I still couldn't get it to go away completely, but now it's gone under normal driving. Haven't ever noticed the hood bulging - but bar / hood contact was something I was monitoring, so I made sure it's not hard up against the hood.

spta97

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you really wanted a rear wheel drive car!

I was eyeing my hood last night as I backed out of my short driveway and a little down the street...no bulging or sounds. I tend not to go more than say 2 MPH in reverse so that's good enough for me.

I took it for another ride last night and I REALLY love this bar. However, it seems that my back end is all wishy washy now when I compare it to the front. I've gotta get cracking on the RSB this weekend!

ps: How fast do you typically go in reverse? I'm curious why someone would need to "accelerate hard" in reverse?

Maximax2

I like to hit about 75, then pull a Rockford and head out...

Originally I tried it because of the reports that this would happen with an FSTB. I rarely do more than let the car idle backwards in reverse, especially since we (and my neighbor) have two little kids - so, not really a problem. But if I'm really in a hurry I'll actually step on the gas, and the noise will reappear.