Which looking at the pic on the Stillen site, they do have the bungs for the sensors. I'm just concerned about what the ECU will do when it sees the same O2 readings throughout.

 

Eliminating the pre-cats I can live with, getting rid of the main cat also is downright out of the question. It would be nice if Stillin would give the option of cat/no-cat pipes. Those guys ever read this board? I had high hopes for this mod too. Wonder what Cattman's headers are going to look like...

 

I have just put on my WarpSpeed Y-Pipe & B-Pipe. I like the performance but they make the exhaust very loud, louder than I like. I also have the HKS muffler on so I don't know if that contributes to the loudness.

 

ur homepage is a flop!
random high flow cat doesnt increase 14 hp....
the 2k2 and the random are alomst the same!

 

Ok, I think I was just posting about loudness of my Y & B-Pipes. Not busting on anyone.

I included the HP increase for the cat from Random Technologies website, http://www.randomtechnology.com/maxima_graf.html. Can't help it if you have a problem with their numbers.

Also, have you been to an English class lately. If not, try picking up a dictionary, it might help you.

Anyway, back to the subject.

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong. By the looks of those numbers the 15hp gain at redline is all due to the lack of an intake and running air right into the throttle body. If you look at the 2 runs with the stock air box the peak hp is in the 5.6-5.7k rpm range and it drops off from there and both top out at 202hp. With no intake it still hits peak in the same range but stays higher to redline. On the second chart he may have hit even peak at 6.1 to 6.2k.

It looks like the VQ likes lots of air. There has to be more room for improvement in the intake manifold.

 

Also with the headers, has Stillen said that the main cat with be removed? From the pics it looks like it will still be there.

 

Stillen would have to be crazy to remove the main cat in it's header design. They would lose a lot of sales. It would be very easy for some one to add and then replace the main cat whenever they wanted by using a test pipe.

My questions is will our cars pass emissions tests with the precats gone and the main cat still in place?

 

yes

 

I posted earlier that I installed the Warpspeed Y & B-Pipes and I also have a HKS muffler. The exhaust was extremely louder. I am not one that favors loud exhaust so I had the stock muffler put back on to cut the noise. The exhaust is extremely quieter but one small problem, the stock muffler occasionally vibrates on the heat shield. Therefore, if you plan on using the stock muffler with the Y and B-pipes, plan on an annoying vibration sound every so often.

I am going to have the stock B-pipe put back on but have them take out the crimps in the pipe. I will also have the HKS muffler put back on. Hopefully, this will keep the sound down.

 

bend the heat shield out thats what I'm doing. BTW I looked at your website whats up with the 14hp from the RT cat

 

Or remove it! That's what I did. I can tell no difference with all but the cat heat shields gone. They are a source of rattle and show no purpose that I can tell.

 

good idea what is involved in removing it. I just noticed yesterday that there is about 4" of play in it to bend it upwards. Right now its sitting about 1/2" from the b pipe.

Matt

 

There is a series of heat shields under our cars. They are held on by bolts. Just remove the bolts and the shields will come right off with a little persuading on some.

 

The 14hp is what RT advertises as the increase in hp. See this link for the hp and torque increase: http://www.randomtechnology.com/maxima_graf.html

 

rt cat and catback supposedly gets 14whp but on a half decent stock maxima exhaust. A catback might gain 8whp and the rt cat is dyno proven 0whp from plenty of maxima owners.

 

I just installed my Warpspeed Y yesterday. Only other exhaust upgrade I have is an Injen CAI. I am having terrible vibration in the floorpan, and the noise seems way too loud! Have you been able to fix these problems yet?

Another thing, the brace that goes to that rubber grommet doesn't line up. It's about 2" away...did you have the same problem?

 

ditto same thing here vibration and rubber grommet not long enough
plz input to fix this prob.

 

the vibration is from the black exhaust brace right behind the y pipe. I removed mine and all the noise is gone 10 min fix

 

very nice..... for me instead of removing the black exhasut brace which made the whole piping little lose.... i just inserted some heat resistance material b/t the brace and the pipe and the vibration is gone and it's holding up the exhaust pipe nice and tight...

good info blubyu2k2

 

I'm gonna have to get my car back up on ramps again and check that out...

blubyu2K2: did you also have the problem with the welded bracket being about 2" away from the rubber bushing?

 

I'm gonna have to get my car back up on ramps again and check that out...

blubyu2K2: did you also have the problem with the welded bracket being about 2" away from the rubber bushing? Both virus and I have that problem with our 2K2 pipes...

 

no I didn't have any problem like that I can think of.

 

What exactly did you you for heat resistance material?

 

 

When we designeed the Y pipe for the 1999.5 -2003 we decided to use a hanger which would bolt up to the stock rubber grommet. A few of the first ones we found that a bushing was needed so as to minimize movement of the hanger. We sent our replacement bushings for them and all now have the bushing included with fastener.

We installed the Y pipe for the 2002-2003 on 3 different 2002-2003 Maxima's ourselves in our shop. Due to the tight bend at the outlet of the rear pre-cat it has to hang slightly lower. We have never removed the cross brace on the floor or ever shimmed it for clearance, we never had to. All we do when we install the Y pipe is adjust the hanger for the right height, it is pretty stiff but can be adjusted. In the case of the Y and B install together we simply adjust the hanger rod on the rear of the B pipe. The 2-1/2" B pipe really fills the space between floor and brace but we fitted over 40 of them right on the cars. We also experimented with some 2-3/4" B pipes because it looks as though space limitations will prevent a 3" B pipe to be used.

 

Here are 5 pics of the bracket and rubber grommet I'm referring to. The bracket is located between the flex section and the catalytic convertor.

 

 

Bend the bracket so you can place a bolt in place. Bracket was probobly bent down during shipping.

 

From the pix, it looks like the bracket is improperly located on the Y. Looks like 1-2" short in the pictures and slightly off left-to-right. No amount of bending is going to lengthen it. It should simply "mate up" with the factory brackets...

 

Exactly bending will not work. The bracket is a bit farther back, a bit lower, and a bit to the side of the rubber thing. No way to make it fit right.

Anybody else have this issue? Take a look and post on here!

 

atleast on maxima it looks like u r able to work something out...

on I35's it's is much futher awayso there is no possible way to work around it make it fit.... once everything is bolted on... it's pretty stiff so no need to be hung in the middle to keep it up...

 

Buy a universal muffler hanger and just use the metal portion of it. It is about a half foot long and has holes drilled in it for mounting.

 

I appreciate the advice, really. Problem is, I shouldn't have to do that. It should fit correctly...
I just want to find out if maybe I got the wrong pipe? If so, then I'll just need to get the right one. If it's a design flaw across the board, then other solutions will have to be found.

 

Matt (Blu) - Any progress with the dyno?

 

He hasn't dyno'd yet. I talked to him today. Another week or two and he'll be ready.

 

Realizing that this is a very long thread, here is what is happening with my install. For the Y-pipe, I ended up using a longer bolt and some persuasion and that seemed to hang the y-pipe ok, although the rubber hanger is contorted now. Bending the bracket helps some clearance, but not enough to stop the rubbing on the cross member even with washers and longer bolts. My final solution will be to glue a piece of rubber on the black bracket. I do not recommend removing the bracket either because it does help stiffen up the floor under the seats as said from an earlier post. The rear one is probably there so if the exhaust systems drops, it won't drag while you are driving. And yes, the hanger on the B pipe hits the floor of the car too. I will have to persuade it also.

 

It seems to me like you got a pipe that was fabricated at 4:30 pm on a Friday before a holiday weekend Send it back... it should require that much effort for a "bolt on mod".

 

Tai Mai Shu: Thank you for posting your install experience. I have the exact same fitment issue as you, it sounds like. I know of at least 1 other person with the same bracket issue.

 

The only thing I can think of is, my car was a mid/late 02, so maybe there was a mid year change in production. One way to find out is to get with someone at a Nissan parts department and see if the part number for a y-pipe has changed based on production dates. Just a thought.
Dallas, if you are reading this, what were the production dates on the 02 models you fitted?
Thanks