HID/HOOD Anti-Theft Kit
#1
HID/HOOD Anti-Theft Kit
I just got delivery of my Nissan HID/Hood anti-theft kit from Courtesy Nissan. I'm looking forward to installing it this weekend. I found a previous post with installation instructions by MANDH but I have two questions :
1) Were they supposed to send me a special socket to install the new HID bolts they sent?
2) The instructions posted on the forum refer to using section BT from the ESM, which I don't have -- for hood lock adjustment & door handle/key cylinder protector installation. Can someone help me with these references?
I have the receipt from Courtesy which I can show as proof of my purchase.
Thanks
1) Were they supposed to send me a special socket to install the new HID bolts they sent?
2) The instructions posted on the forum refer to using section BT from the ESM, which I don't have -- for hood lock adjustment & door handle/key cylinder protector installation. Can someone help me with these references?
I have the receipt from Courtesy which I can show as proof of my purchase.
Thanks
#2
I believe for the HID bolts, you tighten them with pliers until the top portion breaks off, there by rendering them very hard to get off.
The cable on the hood doesn't need to be adjusted after you take it out of the original hood lock. The hardest part is getting those 2 bolts on the cable protector to fit through the holes on the car. This is because there is a wiring harness blocking access. So, I used a C-Clamp (and a towel on top so the paint wouldn't get scratched), to nudge them into place. If you try to do it by hand, it will be quite a struggle. I ended up with bloddy nuckles when I attempted to do it by hand at 1st. Then I used the C-Clamp, and everything went smoothly.
I didn't attempt the door yet, too cold here in CT.
The cable on the hood doesn't need to be adjusted after you take it out of the original hood lock. The hardest part is getting those 2 bolts on the cable protector to fit through the holes on the car. This is because there is a wiring harness blocking access. So, I used a C-Clamp (and a towel on top so the paint wouldn't get scratched), to nudge them into place. If you try to do it by hand, it will be quite a struggle. I ended up with bloddy nuckles when I attempted to do it by hand at 1st. Then I used the C-Clamp, and everything went smoothly.
I didn't attempt the door yet, too cold here in CT.
#5
Originally posted by PHATMAN5050
This is not so...just by disabling them from unscrewing the headlights, doesn't disable them from taking them. Many times, they just break those plastic brackets anyways, leaving the screws behind...
This is not so...just by disabling them from unscrewing the headlights, doesn't disable them from taking them. Many times, they just break those plastic brackets anyways, leaving the screws behind...
#6
Re: HID/HOOD Anti-Theft Kit
RC03MAX,
I used a 4mm, 6 point socket to install the headlight bolts. Also, I removed the plastic retainer holding the wiring harness to the radiator support. I then pulled down on the harness(be careful)about a 1/2 inch until I was able to slide the cable protector studs into the holes. I then reinstalled the retainer for the harness. PM with your address and I will send you instructions for removing the door handle.
I used a 4mm, 6 point socket to install the headlight bolts. Also, I removed the plastic retainer holding the wiring harness to the radiator support. I then pulled down on the harness(be careful)about a 1/2 inch until I was able to slide the cable protector studs into the holes. I then reinstalled the retainer for the harness. PM with your address and I will send you instructions for removing the door handle.
#7
Re: Re: HID/HOOD Anti-Theft Kit
Originally posted by ahaling
RC03MAX,
I used a 4mm, 6 point socket to install the headlight bolts. Also, I removed the plastic retainer holding the wiring harness to the radiator support. I then pulled down on the harness(be careful)about a 1/2 inch until I was able to slide the cable protector studs into the holes. I then reinstalled the retainer for the harness. PM with your address and I will send you instructions for removing the door handle.
RC03MAX,
I used a 4mm, 6 point socket to install the headlight bolts. Also, I removed the plastic retainer holding the wiring harness to the radiator support. I then pulled down on the harness(be careful)about a 1/2 inch until I was able to slide the cable protector studs into the holes. I then reinstalled the retainer for the harness. PM with your address and I will send you instructions for removing the door handle.
I just got back from Sears and actually bought a 6pt 4mm socket (it was the smallest they had)...I was guessing it would work but you just confirmed it for me..COOL And thanks for the hints with the cable protector.
Could you email/PM the other instructions to me thru the *.org? Thanks for the help!
#8
Originally posted by unrealii
Ive never looked at the headlight setup of the maxima in detail, but what if one were to cut an 1/8-1/4th inch of metal to go on top of the tabs, drill a hole through the metal for the bolt, then epoxy the metal to the tabs and use the security bolts to hold it down? If I'm not mistaken that could prevent breaking the tabs
Ive never looked at the headlight setup of the maxima in detail, but what if one were to cut an 1/8-1/4th inch of metal to go on top of the tabs, drill a hole through the metal for the bolt, then epoxy the metal to the tabs and use the security bolts to hold it down? If I'm not mistaken that could prevent breaking the tabs
#9
Originally posted by unrealii
I looked at my dad's 2001 gle and realized, what if upper metal bracets were made, and epoxyed to the top of the headlight housing. If security bolts are used, then in theory the thief would have to have a metal saw handy or be able to break the housings to get the guts out. Does this make sense?
I looked at my dad's 2001 gle and realized, what if upper metal bracets were made, and epoxyed to the top of the headlight housing. If security bolts are used, then in theory the thief would have to have a metal saw handy or be able to break the housings to get the guts out. Does this make sense?
Yeah, I guess it could be done...but you would have to press the metal brackets into the right shape using a decent gauge steel or stainless. In that case, you could make two so that you had a backing plate too. Basically you would sandwich the plastic tabs in between two metal tabs.
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