Ok guys, for the last 4 days, I have been researching what Sub & Amp combo I should use on my 2003 max with the Bose Stereo. 3 shops that I spoke to said that running a typical line level adapter tapping off the rear AMP should do the job, just like they were made to do. Yet, just as I was ready to buy some stuff, a fellow ORG member, who is a good friend, said that the BOSE Head unit will fry. My opinion, is that there is very little draw from the Line level adapter, and that the AMP does most of the work, cause thats the item receiving power. Why is this any different then any other application. If someone has the techical reason why this could cause damage, specific to this setup, please let us know.

Thanks.

 

You don't even need a line level adapter. You can hack right into the wiring that runs from the amp to the "sub". I think green and black are clean bass......could be wrong though.

 

i have a 2k2 with non-bose and i have an amp hooked up to it and at a certain volume, the radio just cuts out completely. there is no sound, but you can change the volume, bass, radio station, etc. the only thing i can think of is the amp pulling too much power from the hu.

 

slickrick,

Something is wrong with your wiring, man. Amplifier inputs are usually high impedance, 20k ohms and upwards. It would pull less current than the typical 4-8 ohm speaker that the HU would normally drives. The cut-off, might actually be the amp protecting itself from being overdriven.

get it checked out.
SHIFT_woosh

 

nope. its not the amo because its running in stereo mode and al lthe music stops playing, not jus tthe bass. honestly nobody has ever heard of such a thing happenening before and i told nissan and of course they give me the "aftermarket" is whats causing the problem. because i have it on volume 19 out of 31 and on volume 20 it cuts out. it should be bale to go to like 23-25 before it distorts.

 

The HU can be damaged if you hook up the line level adapter to the HU (between HU and AMP), which is not your case. The reason the HU can fry is because that setup would reduce the impedance between the HU and AMP, and reduced impedance equals increased current, which the HU won't handle. The HU will either die, or cutout every so often and reset itself like a circuit breaker.

Since your setup is going to hookup the the line level converter at the amp, which is normally between the amp and speaker, you're OK, especially since BOSE systems tend to have very low resistance between amp and speaker, so any change at that connection is bound to increase resistance. So, if something does happen, you have reduced volume and/or changed EQ if anything, but not a blown system.

DW

 

Maybe your amp is the one that's hurting. Try reducing the gain on the amp if it has a gain switch. It may be that the HU is giving the amp too large an input signal, and the amp is cutting out.

DW

 

Well, I guess I will hookup after the amp, between the sub or speakers. I can't see how the amp wol dbe hurt by drawing very low power from it, since this application is done all the time. Thanks.

 

The amp has 2 parts, the input part and the output part. The input can only take so much little power. It's like my friend with a PC who hooked it up to his stereo. He was using Winamp's EQ to adjust levels, but he usually adds 30 db of bass and treble. Sure enough, his amp dies two weeks later. The input side of the amp was getting way too much signal and blew out. The output side (the power to speaker side) was fine. But since it's all on the same motherboard, you have to replace the whole thing.

DW

 

You'll be fine if you connect your AMP input WITHOUT line level adapter in parallel with stock AMP input. You'll eliminate stock AMP from the curcuit altogether. I think you can do it from the rear HU harness.

Mike.