Well finally got around doing this. Got the S-AFC II installed and got to the dyno today and tuned it at 5psi. We got some solid #s considerings I got 19" chrome rims on the car and that can account for at least 10whp there. BTW the uncorrected numbers at 4whp and 4tq lower.

5psi SAE corrected Dyno Chart

Now we turned the boost upto 7 and then dynoed again. Got the same #s, and one other problem, a/f was sitting at 14.5:1 now instead of 12:1. So we turned up the SAFC 10% all the way across the board, only saw it drop to 14:1 then. Decided to turn up the boost to 9psi, at that point the car is running too lean. We turned it off on the dyno.

Seems like Kevin is right, with a 10:1 FMU disc and pushing 10psi we are pushing almost 117psi to the Injectors and that is NO GOOD. We are going to drop this disc down to 8:1 and if needed to a 6:1. Then go back and redyno. I mean at one point we had the SAFC turned up 30% across the board to try to increase the fuel and if you find yourself going more than 20% on the SAFC, then you running into other problems as I am.

Im alright with the #s, except I wouldve liked to see 300-325whp at 10psi.

Dixit

 

congrats!

 

Are you going to take pictures?

 

Did you turn up your correction factor on the Safc? If it is still at the factory setting, it is only adding 3% for every click. You change that to 30% and add way more fuel if you haven't already. 14.5 a/f is scary lean, I cant believe that the dyno operator even let you pull it with that a/f. Good luch tho' you should get it figured out soon.

 

congrats

pics of what

 

VERY impressive!! Now its time to go to the track an represent bro.

 

They been up on www.turbomaxima.com in the Gallery for 2-3weeks now.

Dixit

 

14.5:1 is not scary lean. Most NA cars run right around there. On the run at 14.5:1 he cut the run short. On the 14:1 run he pushed it to limiter.

Now I lost you on the correction factor. You talking about in that one setting on how much to change for each 1% I raise/lower the HiTrottle percentage? I was always told to leave that correction factor alone.

Im also still trying to figure out how this knock sensor works. Manual is 100% Jap.

Dixit

 

 

Nice!

What disc were you using? 10:1 still shouldn't put you down at 14.X:1 a/f running 7 psi. Please keep in mind that it is safer to run rich and turn it down with the S-AFC than what richening it. If the S-AFC ever fails to richen the a/f, you're screwed.

 

nice numbers.

 

Well you are running lean already, it's too bad you did not provide the A/F graph too, but lowering the ratio will make you run even leaner with higher boost. If you are lean on the top end you will be even leaner once you change to lower ratio disc so be careful!

14.5:1 is not scary lean .. 17-18:1 is scary lean any more than that and you have a nightmare!

I have been running with 12:1 disc for a year now with no problems with injectors or leaness ... I don't necessarily recommend it but if you are already running lean AND your S-AFC is already turned up, I probably wouldn't recommend it .... but you can certainly try it! IF you found that you were running VERY rich in certain areas AND you had plenty of adjustment space on your S-AFC (up and down), you could try it.

If you ARE running lean across the board even with S-AFC turned up, it's time for larger injectors!

 

Nigel and Kev, Im lost on why im running lean even with a 10:1 disc and FMU is boost relative. I truly got no idea why Im running lean and not overly rich. See the reason I dont think it is the injectors is because there are plenty of people running 10psi on stock injectors with no problems.

Right now I dont think anyone makes an injector that is simply plug and play in our 5th gens.

The only way WE are truly going to be able to figure out what is wrong is we are going to have to put a Fuel Pressure gauge in to see if we are hitting injector limit. I can either put a real one in or put an inline one in. But I think we are going to put a real one in since I dont plan on going back to the dyno for a few more weeks.

Dixit

 

Congrats.. Hopefully I will be near those numbers

 

I think you are there your car pulls very hard

 

Why does the torque take a dive after the low rpm peak?

 

Unchartered territory for me, I know what you mean though, the torque line is just all over the place. And that is with a correction factor of 5, if I did it at 1, it looks crazy.

Dixit

 

Unchartered territory for me, I know what you mean though, the torque line is just all over the place. And that is with a smoothing factor of 5, if I did it at 1, it looks crazy.

Dixit

 

Smoothing is bad, jagged lines are a sign of detonation, but don't take my word for it, keep running at 14.1 and see what happens. Turbo and cars NEED to be at 12.5-13.1 a/f, any higher than that, you're not long for the world. And turning up the correction factor on your Safc will add more fuel, the reason it's adjustable is because some cars react differently to adding fuel than others. But most Nissans can go as much a 15% at a time. Try it and see. I'm just giving you some sound advice, I dyno tune cars all day long, and I know what works and what blows up. I would not even send an N/A car out the door at 14.5 unless he signed an agreement. But I'm also very cautios with tuning, I haven't blown up a car yet, and don't intend to start now. I run mt Mustang at 12.3 on the bottle, and it's a little fat, but it's one less thing to worry about. Good luck with that tune tho'

 

I agree with you there, that is why we turned it back down at 5psi. Until I get a fuel pressure gauge and see whats going on cant do much more. At 5psi, the chart is flat ar 12.5 to 12:1 all the way to redline.

But I still didnt understand what you meant up turning up the default correction factor from 3% and still dont know truly how to set this knock sensor.

Dixit

 

I have never hooked up the knock sensor option on those, can't read the directions, like you had stated. Turning up the correction factor will fix your problem, say evey click, you add 3%, turn it up to 15% and every click adds 5 times more fuel. So if the max range is 30% +/- on the hi throttle settings, where before you had to add 15% fuel, turn up the correction factor, and you might only have to add 4% to get the same results. So you see what I'm saying now?

 

Got it. Only issue is before I do this, I need to make sure the injectors are not pushing the limit. And before I start making all these adjustments again I need to put the EGT gauge and probe on there. Then I can make small adjustments before going back to the dyno again.

I need to find that article on how to do the knock sensor thing. I dont know where it was.

Dixit

 

When you add fuel with the Safc, it does not increase the fuel pressure, it increases the injector pulse width, so it is safe to add the fuel that way without harming your injectors.

 

Good deal. Still got to get the Fuel Pressure gauge on so I can see whats going on with why the car jerks when i boost at 10psi. It acts like fuel got cut. Also want to get the EGT on there to make sure I dont end up being too lean and blow something.

So you recommend 15% on the correction factor?

Dixit

 

Go as high as you can without tripping a CEL, you will have to start over again on the dyno, because when you change the CF, all your settings for hi-throttle are gonna be screwed up. But 16% is a good place to start, that should make you safe, if you can't get it fat that way, go to 20, or 30%. You can give me a call at my shop if you have any questions, I have tuned a million Safc's and Vafc's. 480-615-4366.

Dave

 

Good deal, I will do so, good thing is at 5psi the a/f was flat lines from 12.5 to 12:1 without the SAFC doing anything. So I can change that number now.

Dixit

 

Whats a good correction factor for those of us running high boost on s/cers, and cutting fuel, just stay stock with the 3 percent? Or adjust it?

 

Silly question.....are you on the stock fuel pump?

 

Wallbro 255lph in the tank. GSS342 was installed back when I put the supercharger in there.

Dixit

 

congrats, dixit!

 

You may need to check out the FP as you suggested. Something might be wrong with the fuel pump... got any pictures of how you guys hooked up the fuel lines?

 

Fuel Lines and Vacuum lines

FMU and Fuel Lines

Just took those pics. I hope they clear and explain where the lines are going to. I dont know how we going to test the fuel pump is there is something wrong.

Dixit

 

Congrats on the numbers. I finally found out most of the knock sensor feature today. So from the link of the knock sensor write-up I tried setting it again today. I was warming up my car when I got off work today and when it was warm, I went ahead and tried their suggestion of revving it at 1300-1700 rpm and 3500-3700 rpm. My knock sensor is wired up and it fluctuates at the idle rpm at the KNOCKING SET screen. So what I did was, I left it in park and kept my foot on the pedal and held it at 1500 rpm and I pushed the toggle to the right and it would set the amount of knocking for that rpm, I kept trying to get it at exactly 1500 rpm and I noticed its recordable at anywhere from 1300-1700 rpm like the write-up said, but I just set it at 1500 rpm. I then did it again for the second setting which was at 3500rpm. I then went to a monitor screen where it would display my knock count and it would actually show a number other than the usual 0 I previously would get. The write-up says "Knock readings are in percentages of knock instead of raw knock counts. What this will tell you is based on how you have "tuned" the knock feature, the AFC will tell you what it perceives in percentage as knock based on its knock settings.", now this is what I'm still trying to learn. Anyway, it says to rev it in and out of gear, I'm kind of lost there, but I'm not sure if I still have to try to get it to those rpms in drive or just in neutral/park. Anyway, I have mine set somewhat, I now need to learn about knock itself.

-Ben

 

Funny, I actually figured how to do this myself last night without this article which I saw earlier as well. What I did was put it in cruise while driving at those designated RPM levels. Whats odd is that it asked for 1500 and 3500rpm settings. But what is odd is how in just 1500range the knock count was anywhere from 30-70 at times. So I dont know how accurate this is.

I thought we had to do this under driving instead of in park, I remember the whole thread I started how we only boost in gear so i assumed the knock setting would be more accurate in drive, but i dont know how accurate this is.

Plus I dont get why that site says set it from 1300-1700 when the screen seems to ask for 1500.

Dixit

 

Yea, I was thinking it would be more accurate as well to try it in drive, I guess it worked for you, so I might see if I get anything different from just doing it in park. Yea, I got a doubl-digit number as well for both settings. They say 1300-1700 rpm because its default setting is at 1500 rpm, but if you tend to miss the 1500 rpm when revving by hitting the toggle to the right, its possibly to get 1350, 1400, 1550, etc. I'll have to play around with it tomorrow.

-Ben

 

I had thought you had said you had seen 117 psi? I guess I misunderstood. Yes I would definitely check if the pressure is indeed rising as it should be. Check for kinked hoses, make sure the FMU is hooked up correctly etc. You should not be running lean really. Although having said that, I started to go slightly lean at 12.5 psi and I run a 12:1 FMU. Where are you tapping boost lines?

A small exhaust housing like T3 would restrict power, torque I am not sure about. I noticed your torque dips quite a lot too but cannot really explain it.

 

Looks like you tapped a different source than I did for boost, but should still work the same (I think) I tapped the fuel pressure regulator where you did not. The thing you tapped is not the FPR though it looks like it. 4th and 5th gens are slightly different as Kev pointed out to me. But like I said it should be OK.

If your boost gauge is on that same line and shows boost you should be OK. Get that Fuel Pressure gauge on!

 

A few posts earlier I posted some links for Kevin to take a look at the fuel lines. The boost gauge is connected to the 5way T. No kinks for sure on the boost line since the way the line works.

Im getting the fuel pressure gauge soon. Kev came up with the calc of 117psi since 10psi x 10:1 + 1/2(34psi) = 117psi.

But Kev did bring up a good point on maybe the fuel pump is the issue, but I got ZERO clue how to check if that is working. I mean I put a Walbro 255lph GSS342 fuel pump in the tank to replace the stock one.

Any help to solve this will be appreciated. I dont mind if I dont push more than 325-350whp if that is the tops of this turbo. I like the fact that I can fullboost quick since it is hybrid but at the expense of more top end.

Dixit

 

The only way to check is with fuel pressure gauge. This will tell you if the pressure is rising as it should. From there you can troubleshoot. It is likely to be a delivery problem either your pump is not delivering fuel pressure or your FMU isn't rising as it should. It is unlikely to be the pump unless you put the wrong pump in but it is a possibility. You will see over 100 psi if everything is hooked up correctly ... I see it almost everyday !

 

There really is no quick fix/check. If you can't afford an expensive in-cabin FPG yet, what you can do is go to PepBoys/Kragen and purchase one of their FPG's. Route the gauge between a gap in the hood to the windshield and tape it to the window. Do some runs and see what FP you hit.

Once you're done, return the gauge (I think you're able to do that). The bad thing is you will need to reconnect the fuel line with an adapter/extender.

You tapped the fuel dampener, but it doesn't matter since that comes from the same source as the fuel pressure regulator.


I'm really confused on why your torque takes a dive after 3900.