N O S
Re: N O S
Originally posted by ychuw
I am going to install NOS on my Maxima. Should I go with 50 , 75 or 100 shot???
I am going to install NOS on my Maxima. Should I go with 50 , 75 or 100 shot???
I think a 50 and 75 shots kit cost almost the same, I would go for the 75 shots if on stock auto, but if you are stick or auto with VB recal than go for 100 shots, you'll see real gain.
My 2 cents
AA
Originally posted by ychuw
where can i buy the fuel pump for 2k1 maxima? I already have bottle heater. What kind of gauges do I need to buy?
where can i buy the fuel pump for 2k1 maxima? I already have bottle heater. What kind of gauges do I need to buy?
Electrical (not mechanical) Fuel pressure. Bottle pressure (in bottle).
Optional:
Electrical Bottle Pressure, A/F, Exhaust Gas Temp
Get a Walboro Fuel pump. Do a google search.
Start with a smaller shot and go from there. You sound relatively inexperienced, so don't be dumb and blow up your engine.
No offence but you really should have looked into it a bit more before purchasing something that could potentially blow your engine. Start with a 50 shot... you should be able to do without gauges that way. Anything more than that it is reccomended to get gauges which moniter bottle pressure, fuel pressure, and probably something else that I'm forgetting. Also, browse through the nitrous forum to get some more general information on the subject.
Originally posted by ch13f
[B]Start with a 50 shot... you should be able to do without gauges that way. [B]
[B]Start with a 50 shot... you should be able to do without gauges that way. [B]
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Originally posted by asu174
You absolutely need a bottle pressure and fuel pressure gauge. If a vacuum line spits off and your fuel pressure doesn't spike with nitrous spraying......not good. Nitrous is not something that you can skimp on with the bare minimum. Do it right or don't do it at all.
You absolutely need a bottle pressure and fuel pressure gauge. If a vacuum line spits off and your fuel pressure doesn't spike with nitrous spraying......not good. Nitrous is not something that you can skimp on with the bare minimum. Do it right or don't do it at all.

but good luck with the E46
-vq
Originally posted by asu174
You absolutely need a bottle pressure and fuel pressure gauge. If a vacuum line spits off and your fuel pressure doesn't spike with nitrous spraying......not good. Nitrous is not something that you can skimp on with the bare minimum. Do it right or don't do it at all.
You absolutely need a bottle pressure and fuel pressure gauge. If a vacuum line spits off and your fuel pressure doesn't spike with nitrous spraying......not good. Nitrous is not something that you can skimp on with the bare minimum. Do it right or don't do it at all.
70 shot is plenty safe, but a fuel press. gauge is mandatory!! If you are spraying a dry kit with no gauge, how the he!! do you know your fuel press is adequate?!?!?!
Originally posted by 2K2_6spd
Sniff.....Andy, you make me proud
70 shot is plenty safe, but a fuel press. gauge is mandatory!! If you are spraying a dry kit with no gauge, how the he!! do you know your fuel press is adequate?!?!?!
Sniff.....Andy, you make me proud
70 shot is plenty safe, but a fuel press. gauge is mandatory!! If you are spraying a dry kit with no gauge, how the he!! do you know your fuel press is adequate?!?!?!
Originally posted by 2K2_6spd
Sniff.....Andy, you make me proud
70 shot is plenty safe, but a fuel press. gauge is mandatory!! If you are spraying a dry kit with no gauge, how the he!! do you know your fuel press is adequate?!?!?!
Sniff.....Andy, you make me proud
70 shot is plenty safe, but a fuel press. gauge is mandatory!! If you are spraying a dry kit with no gauge, how the he!! do you know your fuel press is adequate?!?!?!
Originally posted by HitManSE
Thats why I personally like the wet setup better. No worries about the ratio of N20 to fuel, perfect mixture every time. Well with NX anyway, I just hate the idea of runnin a dry shot. The stock injectors could only handle so much til they give out, what if one gives out while ur spraying? Ur gonna run lean in that cylinder in a split second and thats the end of that story. Direct port would be the most give the most evenly distrubuted setup to each cylinder but its more of a perminent setup and u better have some extra cash layin around. Just my .02
Thats why I personally like the wet setup better. No worries about the ratio of N20 to fuel, perfect mixture every time. Well with NX anyway, I just hate the idea of runnin a dry shot. The stock injectors could only handle so much til they give out, what if one gives out while ur spraying? Ur gonna run lean in that cylinder in a split second and thats the end of that story. Direct port would be the most give the most evenly distrubuted setup to each cylinder but its more of a perminent setup and u better have some extra cash layin around. Just my .02
EFI intakes were never meant to have fuel in them!! Just come by the house sometime, and I'll give you a ride in the Stang, and you can tell me how much you hate dry kits
Originally posted by 2K2_6spd
If you hate that, just wait until you have a backfire.....Hate will have a whole new meaning
EFI intakes were never meant to have fuel in them!! Just come by the house sometime, and I'll give you a ride in the Stang, and you can tell me how much you hate dry kits
If you hate that, just wait until you have a backfire.....Hate will have a whole new meaning
EFI intakes were never meant to have fuel in them!! Just come by the house sometime, and I'll give you a ride in the Stang, and you can tell me how much you hate dry kits
Btw have u ever though about puttin some juice in ur max?
Originally posted by HitManSE
U do have a very strong point on the backfire issue, but as an example look at Jime. Hes had the NX wet kit for some time now w/o and problems of the manifold blowing off. Dave was tellin me about the N20 backfire thing when I met him a few weeks ago but I feel that if the fuel get atomotized well enough then there wont be and pools of fuel left in the manifold to ignite. I think ill take u up on the ride in the stang sometime
Btw have u ever though about puttin some juice in ur max?
U do have a very strong point on the backfire issue, but as an example look at Jime. Hes had the NX wet kit for some time now w/o and problems of the manifold blowing off. Dave was tellin me about the N20 backfire thing when I met him a few weeks ago but I feel that if the fuel get atomotized well enough then there wont be and pools of fuel left in the manifold to ignite. I think ill take u up on the ride in the stang sometime
Btw have u ever though about puttin some juice in ur max?
Originally posted by 2K2_6spd
No juice for my Max, but a turbo is in the works. And backfires also happen when you tap a rev limiter, and that's not hard to do in a Maxima.
No juice for my Max, but a turbo is in the works. And backfires also happen when you tap a rev limiter, and that's not hard to do in a Maxima.
Originally posted by asu174
You do realize that you're talking to Dave right now, right?
You do realize that you're talking to Dave right now, right?
Originally posted by HitManSE
Andy there is also another Dave who is 41 I belive and also has a 2K2 6spd. Hes also a pretty cool guy to be honest, like Dave(this dave) said hes 41 goin on 21. Damnit Andy now u got me posting about too many dave's.
Andy there is also another Dave who is 41 I belive and also has a 2K2 6spd. Hes also a pretty cool guy to be honest, like Dave(this dave) said hes 41 goin on 21. Damnit Andy now u got me posting about too many dave's.
He's talking about the other Dave, with the white 2k2. I already build the turbo kits for the Cougar, and Contours. I'm going to try changing the headers, and using the existing pipe to adapt it to the Max. We have the Contour pushing 290fwhp with a 10psi turbo kit, I'm sure the Max will make 300+ on pump gas with the same kit. Come by the shop some time, and I'll show you what we do.
Originally posted by 2K2_6spd
He's talking about the other Dave, with the white 2k2. I already build the turbo kits for the Cougar, and Contours. I'm going to try changing the headers, and using the existing pipe to adapt it to the Max. We have the Contour pushing 290fwhp with a 10psi turbo kit, I'm sure the Max will make 300+ on pump gas with the same kit. Come by the shop some time, and I'll show you what we do.
He's talking about the other Dave, with the white 2k2. I already build the turbo kits for the Cougar, and Contours. I'm going to try changing the headers, and using the existing pipe to adapt it to the Max. We have the Contour pushing 290fwhp with a 10psi turbo kit, I'm sure the Max will make 300+ on pump gas with the same kit. Come by the shop some time, and I'll show you what we do.
Originally posted by asu174
Do you have any turbo kits in the $300-$500 range? How much boost will that buy me?
Do you have any turbo kits in the $300-$500 range? How much boost will that buy me?
Its obviously gonna have sell lag then the 3.0's which dont really have much lag at all so im sure the midrange torque is gonna be through the roof.
Originally posted by HitManSE
Maybe just a turbo, depends on size and brand. A ballbearing equipped turbo can run u well over a grand. I was thinkin the 3.5 with boost, say a ball bearing T4 would hit up atleast the mid-upper 300hp mark to the wheels say around 10psi.
Its obviously gonna have sell lag then the 3.0's which dont really have much lag at all so im sure the midrange torque is gonna be through the roof.
Maybe just a turbo, depends on size and brand. A ballbearing equipped turbo can run u well over a grand. I was thinkin the 3.5 with boost, say a ball bearing T4 would hit up atleast the mid-upper 300hp mark to the wheels say around 10psi.
Its obviously gonna have sell lag then the 3.0's which dont really have much lag at all so im sure the midrange torque is gonna be through the roof.
Originally posted by HitManSE
Maybe just a turbo, depends on size and brand. A ballbearing equipped turbo can run u well over a grand. I was thinkin the 3.5 with boost, say a ball bearing T4 would hit up atleast the mid-upper 300hp mark to the wheels say around 10psi.
Its obviously gonna have sell lag then the 3.0's which dont really have much lag at all so im sure the midrange torque is gonna be through the roof.
Maybe just a turbo, depends on size and brand. A ballbearing equipped turbo can run u well over a grand. I was thinkin the 3.5 with boost, say a ball bearing T4 would hit up atleast the mid-upper 300hp mark to the wheels say around 10psi.
Its obviously gonna have sell lag then the 3.0's which dont really have much lag at all so im sure the midrange torque is gonna be through the roof.
Originally posted by 2K2_6spd
In reality a 3.5 on 10psi should do almost 400fwhp. I'll be conservative, and prolly run 5-6spi around town, and save the 10psi for the track. And I have a t3-t4 hybrid in mind for this project. We use a Garett t-28 on the Contour, but that won't cut it on a Maxima.
In reality a 3.5 on 10psi should do almost 400fwhp. I'll be conservative, and prolly run 5-6spi around town, and save the 10psi for the track. And I have a t3-t4 hybrid in mind for this project. We use a Garett t-28 on the Contour, but that won't cut it on a Maxima.
stupid thing still wont go past 6500rpms, I think valve-float is the only logical explination for this now. We just threw on a MSD-7AL3 which is im sure good for up to 10,000 rpms.
Originally posted by HitManSE
Thats whay I figured, Id personally run no more then 5-6 in the streets either. Thats already more then u really need on the street. The reason I was sayin a T4 is because Tubo97se/Nigel slapped on a T4 on his and got a good power increase across the whole power band so I figured that the gains would be even better on the 3.5 Btw Andy I know u were being sarcastic, most of the last post I made was geared toward Dave. Get a load of this, this morning the manager from the apartment that are behind the shop came over to out place and complained about the noise. We were gettin kinda rev happy with the Chevelle
stupid thing still wont go past 6500rpms, I think valve-float is the only logical explination for this now. We just threw on a MSD-7AL3 which is im sure good for up to 10,000 rpms.
Thats whay I figured, Id personally run no more then 5-6 in the streets either. Thats already more then u really need on the street. The reason I was sayin a T4 is because Tubo97se/Nigel slapped on a T4 on his and got a good power increase across the whole power band so I figured that the gains would be even better on the 3.5 Btw Andy I know u were being sarcastic, most of the last post I made was geared toward Dave. Get a load of this, this morning the manager from the apartment that are behind the shop came over to out place and complained about the noise. We were gettin kinda rev happy with the Chevelle
stupid thing still wont go past 6500rpms, I think valve-float is the only logical explination for this now. We just threw on a MSD-7AL3 which is im sure good for up to 10,000 rpms.
Originally posted by 2K2_6spd
Is it a big block, with hyd. lifters? If so , then 6500 is plenty!!
Is it a big block, with hyd. lifters? If so , then 6500 is plenty!!
Originally posted by HitManSE
Oh yeah, get this. He bored out a LS6 to 505cu.in (I would have just throw in a crate 540 and juiced it) He is runnin a 250 shot of n20. He for some reason got 4.11 gears put in the rear end. Now he runs out of gears and RPMs at around the 1/8 mile mark and just holds the revs til the 1/4 is over and still manages to run 12's all motor. Btw is got a built TH400 3spd in it. He wants to rev it to 8k to counter this, I say He gets ride of the 4.11 and gets gears in the low 3's or even hi 2's. Hes got more then enough torque to drive those gear on the motor alone, yet alone with the nitrous. From what he says he cant even hook up with the slicks hes got on it. I dont know what to do with this guy, we just threw in over $1K worth of MSD supplies dist, coil, 10.4 wires and the 7-AL3 which is 500+ alone. He was runnin a stock ingintion on a 9.2 sec car, how he pulled that off I have no clue. But I know 4 a fact that 6500 is plenty, he just wants too much.
Oh yeah, get this. He bored out a LS6 to 505cu.in (I would have just throw in a crate 540 and juiced it) He is runnin a 250 shot of n20. He for some reason got 4.11 gears put in the rear end. Now he runs out of gears and RPMs at around the 1/8 mile mark and just holds the revs til the 1/4 is over and still manages to run 12's all motor. Btw is got a built TH400 3spd in it. He wants to rev it to 8k to counter this, I say He gets ride of the 4.11 and gets gears in the low 3's or even hi 2's. Hes got more then enough torque to drive those gear on the motor alone, yet alone with the nitrous. From what he says he cant even hook up with the slicks hes got on it. I dont know what to do with this guy, we just threw in over $1K worth of MSD supplies dist, coil, 10.4 wires and the 7-AL3 which is 500+ alone. He was runnin a stock ingintion on a 9.2 sec car, how he pulled that off I have no clue. But I know 4 a fact that 6500 is plenty, he just wants too much.
Originally posted by 2K2_6spd
Send him to me, we'll dyno it, and figure it out. 480-615-4366
Send him to me, we'll dyno it, and figure it out. 480-615-4366
Ill give him the # when he swings by to pick it up tomorrow and tell him to ask 4 Dave. I just have a feeling hes gonna get it towed back to our place in like 2hrs. We used the MSD ProPower Drag only coil and as u know its a low resistance oil filled coil and will get hot and start to fry if the car is run longet then 10 min. I made it clear to him to not drive the car on the street but I dont think he cares, he said ill worry about it when it blow, oh well I tried. I think ill just go grab a HVC coil in the meantime, I just have a feeling hes gonna blow the coil driving home.



You think if I can give him a good run if I install 100 shot????

You had the right state of mind, but you have fallen off track, my son....