I just installed some 5/16" rear wheel spacers. I bought the cheap ones that just slide on behind the wheel versus tearing the brakes off and replacing the whole hub thingy.

Although I do notice a slight difference, it didn't bring the wheel out enough for my liking, so I ordered some 7/16" ones. I would highly doubt our wheel studs are long enough to accomodate anything larger. I am a little worried about the ones I just ordered, actually.

Here is a pic:

 

doesnt look like there's wheel spacers to me...maybe its the pic

 

It's only 5/16" or 8mm. Basically a third of an inch. It's subtle, but I can see a slight difference. And they are just on the rear.

 

What happened to the RHs? With 245s on an 8" wheel, it looks solid gold. Fat tires and wheels eating up all that inset looking space. I would agree that the wheel studs won't take too much more than what you ordered.

 

RH's are only 7.5" wide and tires are 225/40s. The center caps were chipping like crazy and I sent them back in to be replaced under warranty. I had to rotate the tires anyhow, so I just threw on the stockers for now until I get back the caps. I've also got another set of wheels hopefully on the way, but those are 7.5" wide too.

 

Those spacers could be exactly what you need with the 7.5s, gonna look sweet. I dig the wheels you had, hope the next ones are as sweet

 

Thanks. Not so sure if the new ones are gonna come through or not. I actually like my RH's better, but I need the tires off of this set that will hopefully be coming. I guess it's no secret. they're Konig Imagines.

 

You could just get 8.5" wide wheels and not worry about the spacers.

 

When I was buying wheels, I couldn't find any that I liked.

I could sell both sets and get these..... Again, wife would kill me.

 

Damn. These are sweet too. Where the hell were all of these choices when I bought mine???!!

 

Andy....what happend to your rims??? I havent been to the 5th gen forum for a while.

 

Hes getting the middle caps re done or something. The clear coats were chipping off. Andy I think u should just sell both sets. Not that there is anything wrong with ur RH, they look sweet but just get something that u exactly want. I know u want those new 1z, plus if u sell both sets its basically gonna pay for the new rims.
Disclamer: If ur wife kills u, its all on u man.
Bottom line is if u sell both its not gonna cost u much out of pocket.

 

I installed H&R spacers on my rear wheels a while ago. I used the 20mm ones. The difference is incredible. If my car is sitting next to a normal Max, it looks like my rear tires are wider. The spacers bring the rear wheels out to the fenders. You do have to remove the caliper and hub to install the spacers because new wheel studs and lugs are needed. But if you use a lift like I did, it will take well under an hour to complete the job. The H&R spacers are a little pricey at $105 a pair, but they are hubcentric(they don't make the wheels wobble). I like the factory Titanium edition wheels, so that is the reason for the spacers. I highly reccomend them to anyone who is going to keep the factory wheels.

 

I think I can see a little difference.

 

Do you have any pics? I was planning on doing the same, but wasn't sure whether I should get the 15mm or 20mm.

 

Sorry I don't have a site with pictures. If you like, I can take a couple and email them to you. The 20mm spacers are perfect. If you look at the car from the rear, the tires are flush with the edge of the splash guards. Without the spacers, the tires look sunken in from the rear.

 

RichK...you used the 20mm on the rear wheels only? What about the fronts do they look sunken in at all now since the rear ones are flush? I was thinking about getting 20mm on the back and 5mm for the front just to even things off...what do you think? Is 5mm is useless? Also do you need new studs for the 5mm?

 

No, the fronts look fine. I thought about getting the 5mm for the front too. But I don't think the difference would justify the cost. I feel the 20mm spacers are the best thing a Max owner could do if they wanted to stay with OEM wheels.

 

Here are pics of 25mm in the rear and 20 in the front. I'd go with 10 or 15 in the front.

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=255399&page=2

 

Richk..do you think you could post any pics or e-mail any to me? I am very interested to see what these spacers look like.

 

Ummmm......look at the link I just posted.

 

The previous post has great pictures. With the 20mm spacers on the rear, the front wheels and rear wheels are the same distance inside the fender. Pictures look good, but seeing the Max beside one without spacers is the icing on the cake. Even my wife notices a difference (an amazing feat).

 

Would you think I would have a problem with 20mm spacers in the rear with my Ground Control coilovers? I sometimes lower the car almost 3 inches and was wondering if I would have rubbing problems.

btw, those pics look really nice.

 

Is it hard to install 20mm spacers in the rear? Is it something I can do on my own, or do I have to take it to a shop?

 

Just had these installed on my ride. 20mm for the rear and 5mm for the front. For the rear you have to use the longer bolts. Make sure however that the threads match your original oem thread size which is 1.25 new ones delivered to me are 1.50 so I now have 2 mismatching thread sizes. Anyway when the rear bolts were installed I had to cut away the backing so that I could slide the longer bolt to the hub. A bit of a pain but well worth it. Spacers are expensive. I got the both sets from optionauto for $160 shipped. The wheels now fill out the well with both my stock 17's and my 18x8's with the same offset as my oem rims. They are very close to rubbing but so far they have not rubbed yet. The five is so negligible that for $50 bucks buy something else. 5mm is the thickness of a foam mouse pad so you be the judge. The car now looks more aggresive. I have H&R springs and now the H&R spacers. As you all know the drop is minimal so the 20mm and 5mm do the trick with no rubbing and a great look.

 

If you dont have all the tools, nor the experience I would just take it to a shop. Its a time consuming ordeal, If u can remove and reinstall the brake claipers and rotors then U might be able to pull it off.

 

The install will go much easier with a lift. But you could do it with the car on a jackstand.

First remove the wheel. Then remove the caliper by removing the 2 17mm bolts that hold it to the hub assembly. With the caliper off, slide off the rotor. Now remove the cap that covers the center hub nut. You can use a screwdriver and hammer to remove it. Just tap around the perimeter and it will pop off. When the cap is removed, the hub nut will be exposed. Remove the hub nut. I forget the size of the nut, but it is a large nut. With the nut removed, you can now carefully slide off the hub. Now you will need to hammer or press out the old studs and hammer the new ones in. Just be very careful with the ABS speed sensor ring (the toothed gear) on the rear side of the hub. You do not want to nick or dent it. To remove the studs, simply hammer them out. To install the new ones, it will be easier with a helper. Have the helper hold the hub while you hammer the new studs in. I used a small sledge hammer and a 1/2" rathcet extension as a punch. Worked like a charm. When installing the hub, remember to torque the hub nut to around 140ft/lbs. Slide on the rotor, reattach the caliper, and put the wheel back on. It took me less than an hour to do both sides, but I have access to a lift. I would rate this job a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5 for difficulty. With the main obstacle being installing the new studs. But like I said, with a second pair of hands, it isn't bad at all.