Guys, just a quick list of which ones are vailable, that mean stock spec. Thanks.

 

for synthetics people usually use either Redline or Amsoil. I have redline in mine and i am satisfied with it.

 

You should start a poll. I'll vote for AMSoil.


~limsandy

 

Redline, Amsoil and Mobil are the best. I have Amsoil because it lasts at least twice as long.

 

I'd use redline. Heard alot of good things about.

 

Does that Pure Purple have one? So If I got to the store to buy some, what em I looking for? Syntheteic Tranny fluid? Does Castrol make one?

 

Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 and Redline MT-90 top the list. If you go to the auto parts store and are looking for gear oil, make sure it is compatible with a GL4 tranny or you can create some problems.

 

Read my sig

 

Im assuming these ones u mentioned are GL4 compatible. How much should I buy?

 

6speed tranny holds about 2.5-3 quarts. i bought 3 quarts and i have about a half quart left over from when i did the change. you wont need more than 3 quarts.

 

I want to install Redline myself, hoping to make shifting smoother,especially the 3rd gear grind but, will the dealer tell me anything when the car goes in for service down the road and they see that the tranny oil is different from OEM?will they even know it's different from OEM?

 

It shouldn't matter. It's really an "upgrade" from the factory standard oil. It wouldn't be any different than going to synthetic motor oil (only it's synthetic gear oil in this case.)

 

what the heck is a quart? Geez, i should of mentioned we were Canadian here

 

1 quart = .9472 liters

 

1 quart = 0.95 liter

 

Are you sure about this # ? I called in the service guys at my local dealership and they answered "4.8-5 quartz" .. but then again they are idiots, i'd believe you over them if you're positive.

 

2.5 is correct. I believe the 4.8-5 was for the older maximas.

 

Yes, they are GL4 compatible and safe to use.

Buy 3 quarts for the 6 speed.

The 5 speed manuals hold 4.5-5 quarts, so the Nissan tech was probably referring to that one.

The dealer shouldn't know whether or not you upgraded the gear oil. Even if they did, they would still have to prove that the gear oil itself caused the problem in order to deny warranty coverage. The burden of proof is on them and they'll never be able to prove it anyway.

 

Check with either Redline's or Amsoil's web site to find a distributor.

It is very easy to change the fluid. You will need to buy 3 quarts I don't think you will find syn north of the boarder easily, I may be wrong. If you can find it the get 3 liters. I have Redline MT-90 in mine.

All you need for this is a 10mm hex socket and either a funnel with a long tube or some 1/2" (12mm) or smaller tubing to attach to your funnel.
On level ground take out the top/filler plug out of the tranny. Then with drain pan ready remove the lower plug. Let it drain till there are no more drips (1/2hr or more). You may also want to jack the car up on the passenger side to change the angle to get more oil out. Then replace the lower plug and with the car back on the ground and level (w/drain pan still under the tranny) insert the tube into the top plug (be sure to push it in a little ways) and add 2 qt/ltr on the 3rd pour in half. If the tube you use is a tight fit pour slowly as it will burp. Give it some time to run down the hose then pull it out if no oil comes out of the fill plug add more. You can't over fill the tranny. It's full when on level ground the fluid level is even with the bottom of the fill plug. Now just replace the top plug clean up and if you haven't yet grab a beer.

Also the one thing you need to pay attention to now is if you ever take your car in for service or an oil change sometimes a good tech will check the level of the trans fluid. Make sure they don't! Or they will add dino oil to top it off. You have the rest of the 3rd. quart/liter for that and you should check it every 10k miles (18.5k kilometers).

 

 

Go with the three quarts of Redline MT-90 which is GL4. You will love it. My Dealership even put it in for me.

 

I had Amsoil in my 2K2 6 speed and I didn't like it. At first, I thought it was really good. Then, after driving with it for a little, I noticed the stick getting notchy and I was grinding synchros on shifts. I ended up going back to the OEM spec Quaker State 75W-90 GL4 and I can tell you it is MUCH better than the Amsoil. No more grinding synchros. I think that, in some cases, synthetics can by too slippery for the synchros. They don't spool up fast enough and then end up grinding on shifts.

Just my .02

 

will redline MTL do the job or is the MT-90 absolutely neccessary? (if going with Redline)

 

Man, negative review, shucks....Well, I may just go with a Synthetic brand like Mobil one or Castrol. As long as they are GL4 approved.

 

After reading 1000 reviews of satisfied customer, you're giving ONE negative feedback. LoL.


~limsandy

 

Hey, every opinion counts, that's why the forum is here. You must've noticed that it's called Maxima Discussions, so discuss ahead, both negative and positive. As long as it doesn't get out of hand, it's cool, right Moderators?

 

MTL is a 70W80 oil. Read your manual and you will see it specs 75w90, i.e. MT-90.

 

I noticed the same problem with redline! Please tell me where you found the Quaker state gl-4 as I can't find it anywhere.

Thanks!

 

Mobil 1 may have some good products, but when it comes to cold weather shifting, their gear oil can't touch Amsoil or Redline.

If you're going to use Redline, use the MT-90, not the MTL. The MTL is too light for warmer weather applications. What you gain in shift feel cold, you sacrifice in wear protection warm.

 

Ok, a couple of thoughts:

Regarding my experience with Amsoil, I can only tell it how it was. I didn't like it at all and I was grinding synchros. This doesn't mean others may not have better experiences. I also think the 6speeds trannys may be more picky than the earlier 5 speeds. Please take note that I had this experience while driving the car in a very cold NY winter, so in warmer climates, the problems I described may be less of an issue or no issue at all.

Next, believe it or not, I found the Quaker State GL-4 at a local Jiffy Lube. The owner told me that he had issues with older Mitsubishi's and so he now keeps GL-4 on hand at all times. I would think that a quick lube place that uses Quaker State might have it, otherwise, look for a Mitsubishi dealer or service center.

I have not tried the Redline, but it seems to have received positive reviews.

My recommendation is to stick with a dino GL-4. I also had similar problems grinding synchros in a '95 Civic when used with Mobil synthetic oil.

One last thought. Mobil 1 gear lube is NOT recommended for tranny's that require GL-4. Feel free to look this one up in the Mobil literature if you wish.

 

Hey y2kse!!! this question is sort off but how did you advance your timing???? I think this was asked before.

 

Ive been telling people this for years. Synthetic GL users be warned.

 

Warned, how so?

 

how about synthetic ATF for my auto 03?? can I use it and how many quarts?

 

It works great for the gears and the internal shift linkages. But synthetics usually make it more difficult for the gear synchronizers to work. You'll push them harder to do the same job and they wont have to wear as much before you start grinding between shifts. You just have to ask yourself how aggressive you're going to shift and will the issues being moved from one place to another be worth it to you.

In 37k miles I literally destroyed the 5speed tranny in my '98 Max which had Motul semi synthetic since it was new. The dino oil that the dealer put in the second one made the tranny last much longer.

 

SR20DEN,

I completely concur with your assessment. Synthetics are great for the bearings and gears but bad for the synchros. The best thing to use is a high quality dino oil. By the way, I personally like the feel of the 6 speed in the Maxima with dino oil in it. It feels almost exactly like the 5 speed in the Solvo S70 T5. I also like the cable linkage better than a solid metal linkage because there is comparatively MUCH less vibration in the stick. What I don't like is that I can't upgrade to a "short throw" shifter and that the OEM shifter generates shifts with a fairly long throw.

 

No one makes a kit. But it wouldn't be difficult to do correctly on your own. Since it's all cable driven all you need to do is raise the loading points (X and Y) on the lever (extend it from the fulrcum).

 

50 bucks to whomever does the first write up!

 

Is that a promise?

 

Yes. If you do a full write up with pictures I will paypal you 50 dollars mark my word.