Trunksu

I'm starting to experience brake judder. high speeds when i press hard on the brake, steering wheel is shaking, and i'm noticing pulsing in my braking. my biggest problem is i just hit the 40k mark so i past my warrenty. i've already made an appointment for the dealership to look at it (and i'm gonna show them the tsb) but is it worth my time? i got friends saying i shouldn't bother, they say just get new rotors/brakes cuz the dealer is gonna charge me tons of money. any suggestions would be great.

(technical question) why is it i don't always feel the pulsing?

does anyone know how much stock brake pads and rotors cost?

thanx

bsetiawan

iTrader: (43)

When you're braking from high speed, your brake pads get hot and they release gas, known as gassing. This will cause your steering wheel to vibrate. This is the reason why you don't feel the pulsing at all times. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Don't get stock pads and rotors cause you'll be experiencing the same problem soon. Get better pads like Porterfields R4S or Performance Friction Carbon Metallic (cost about $35 from AutoZone). As for rotors, you can find Power Slots, Brembo X-drilled/slotted, Disc Brake Australia from Precisionbrake, etc.

Don't waste your money at the dealer to do a check up. Get some pads and rotors for your weekend project.

Trunksu

if i got brand new stock rotors/brakes it will still have problems? i honestly thought they would have fixed the stock rotors from this happening again.

so simply getting new rotors and brakes will fix brake juddering correct? where's a good place to get these rotors for a good price? tryin to save money but i obviously want something good. thanx

TimW

iTrader: (6)

Modern pads don't really gas out like the old ones did. Now, crossdrilling and slots are really for venting and cleaning the pad surface. However, if you get them hot enough you can glaze them. I almost melted my rears in the mountains.

I agree, dont waste your time with turning at the dealer. If your rotors are that bad off, turning will only be a temp fix.

Now for your new rotors, I wouldnt use stock pads as they are suspected to be generating excess heat. I would recommend Raybestos QuietStop Ceramics if you can find them.

But the single most important thing you can do to make sure your rotors dont warp again is to buy a torque wrench for your lugs. You can get them at Harbor Frieght for <$20
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...itemnumber=239

Seriously, you will be throwing away your money if you get new rotors and dont use proper torque. My rotors were warped last time because I didnt double check behind NTB. Big mistake, they were warped in about 4 days after. I found the lugs were way over 100ft lbs, even tho they promised to hand torque when I asked.

bsetiawan

iTrader: (43)

Don't forget to break in the rotors and pads properly before you do any hard braking. As for good price, try the group buy section, Ebay or groupbuycenter.com. I got a pair of DBA slotted and X-drilled for around $140 shipped.

silverkorn

iTrader: (3)

the rotors didnt "warp" due to the torque of the lugs or the gassing of the pads but to improper break in

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

Maxman2000

iTrader: (5)

After a long period of braking, your rotors heat up alot and after stoping at a stop sign or light the pressure of the caliper skeazes on the rotor and warps them. Which is what happened to mine twice .

spta97

iTrader: (1)

Nissan rotors are notoriously bad. I noticed mine were warped at 1000 miles - when I actually pressed them hard above 60 MPH. With proper break-in, I have never had this happen so soon on any other car.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

That is such a great piece of information. That link should be put into a sticky someplace on here.

After reading that article I feel there are two reasons the Maxima is prone to brake judder.

1) Improper break in procedure
2) OEM Pads

I'll bet the OEM pads are leaving material on the rotors. That article stated it's possible to fix brake judder by just replacing the pads with more agressive pads and performing a bedding in process. The more agressive pad will clean up the rotor.

My thoughts are that switching to Axxis Metal Masters, or Ceramic pads which are more agressive, may cure brake judder on some cars.

Zog

iTrader: (1)

Pepboy's is running a deal right now on Raybestos Quiet Stops. $124 for new pads and turning your rotors if they need it.

Trunksu

i read the article and it was very informative. i never even knew there was a break-in period. question, so everytime i replace the pads i'm suppose to do 10 hard brakes like the article says?

my main concern is i'm getting this done at my friends place but there are no clear roads where i can just accelerate to 60 and brake, etc. without hitting a light or without coming to a complete stop.

filtor1

iTrader: (7)

silverkorn, That is the most informative link I have ever read on this subject. Thanks for the link. I had just passed 37000 when it hit my Max bad. I am going to upgrade my pads asap. Still undecided on the brand or type. Let me know if any of you guys have had experiences with any particular pads, good and bad are both appreciated.

silverkorn

iTrader: (3)

its not so much that you cant hit your brakes what-so-ever without a break-in. its just when your sitting at a light dont keep your foot on the pedal, use the e-brake. this helps stop the brake pad footprint from being placed on your rotors. this is the main cause of having the "warped" rotors, you brake very hard and get the pads a little over heated, then sit there at the light with the pads melting onto your rotors.

Trunksu

thanx. gonna get my ride back today. i'll try to remember e-brake only

MadXtreme01

im waiting for stilen cross drilled rotors right now, when i install them and replace my pads do i still need the spacer kit?

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

I think, this is very pad dependent. I have auto and do this all the time and has no problems since I put R4S more then 2 years ago on the new set of stock rotors. I don't know for sure what happens with rotors when I used stock pads but they were not "warped" whatsoever and my steering wheel was shaking like hell. The most reasonable explanation I came across was that iron carbid build up theory from provided link.

code_slinger

I have the problem at 1500 Mi. on a 2003 SE. I m trying to line up my observations with the theory expressed in the stoptech white paper.

I notice the following:

1) My lugs are all carefully torqued to 80nm.
2) Only happens at high speeds (over 60)
3) The judder is more pronounced when breaking hard. If I touch the breaks very litely, there is hardly any judder even at 100mph.
4) It gets progressively worse the longer I break.
5) I do notice some uneven looking streaking on the rotor surface, front and back. Looks very different from my old Infinity G20, where the rotors have a miror-like bluish finish.

What I see seems to be in-line with the
theory. Esp. suspicious is #3. If the rotors were simply warped, I would expect them beat against the pads even if I just touch the breaks.
It seems the vibration is caused by sticky and less sticky spots on the rotor surface.

The next logical step is xperimentation,
based on the theory.

a) Just switching pads may cure things.
If it does, the theory is as good as proven. On the other hand, if the rotors are truly warped, it is probably money thrown away.
b) Turning the rotors and switching pads should definitely fix things. I have an app with the local dealer, I am tempted to buy the hi-perf pads and just give it to them to put in.