Maxspeed Spring Install on 2k2
Re: Maxspeed Spring Install on 2k2
Originally posted by hombre
Anyone have a link to a writeup for spring installation on a 2k2?
Anyone have a link to a writeup for spring installation on a 2k2?
Also, what would be a reasonable price to pay a shop to install them for me? Anyone in the Dallas, TX area that you could recommend?
Here you guys go.
http://www.crick.org/bam/max/coilwriteup.htm
Thank shaydz for the right up. I've been trying to install my maxspeeds since Sunday but it keeps raining. I actually about to head out and install the front ones right now cause I think the rain has let up for the day. I'll post some pics of the front since this write up is just for the back.
Thanks
wildmanal
http://www.crick.org/bam/max/coilwriteup.htm
Thank shaydz for the right up. I've been trying to install my maxspeeds since Sunday but it keeps raining. I actually about to head out and install the front ones right now cause I think the rain has let up for the day. I'll post some pics of the front since this write up is just for the back.
Thanks
wildmanal
Originally posted by wildmanal
Here you guys go.
http://www.crick.org/bam/max/coilwriteup.htm
Thank shaydz for the right up. I've been trying to install my maxspeeds since Sunday but it keeps raining. I actually about to head out and install the front ones right now cause I think the rain has let up for the day. I'll post some pics of the front since this write up is just for the back.
Thanks
wildmanal
Here you guys go.
http://www.crick.org/bam/max/coilwriteup.htm
Thank shaydz for the right up. I've been trying to install my maxspeeds since Sunday but it keeps raining. I actually about to head out and install the front ones right now cause I think the rain has let up for the day. I'll post some pics of the front since this write up is just for the back.
Thanks
wildmanal
Originally posted by Shaydz
Yeah, by the time I finished that writeup for the back ( a week later) the front was kinda fuzzy. I still have some pics of the front changeout but don't remember the size wrenches, individual little bug-a-boos. If I get some time I'll update that page to at least put the front pics up.
Yeah, by the time I finished that writeup for the back ( a week later) the front was kinda fuzzy. I still have some pics of the front changeout but don't remember the size wrenches, individual little bug-a-boos. If I get some time I'll update that page to at least put the front pics up.
Originally posted by maximamaybe
How long would you estimate that the install takes? Are you very mechanically inclined? How long on the back and how long on the front?
How long would you estimate that the install takes? Are you very mechanically inclined? How long on the back and how long on the front?
Originally posted by ducky
It took me 7 hours to do my suspension by myself, under 4 hours when my friend and I did his suspension. That's not including breaks and such.
It took me 7 hours to do my suspension by myself, under 4 hours when my friend and I did his suspension. That's not including breaks and such.
I've messed with spings/shocks/struts before but my buddy is a DIY mechanic in the first order. Nothing surprises him.
Originally posted by ducky
It took me 7 hours to do my suspension by myself, under 4 hours when my friend and I did his suspension. That's not including breaks and such.
It took me 7 hours to do my suspension by myself, under 4 hours when my friend and I did his suspension. That's not including breaks and such.
How did that happen? It took me like 2.5 hrs the 1st time I ever even attempted it. Now its down to around the 1hr mark, im a diff story though.
Originally posted by maximamaybe
How long would you estimate that the install takes? Are you very mechanically inclined? How long on the back and how long on the front?
How long would you estimate that the install takes? Are you very mechanically inclined? How long on the back and how long on the front?
Rear took me over 4 hours, because I had a crappy spring compressor, that kept hitting the wheel well. You also have to take apart your whole trunk to get to the bolts on the shocks. Wait till you see where they are !..
..F$%K Nissan !
Originally posted by GreekMaxima
Any site that i can buy maxspeed springs for my 2k2?
Any site that i can buy maxspeed springs for my 2k2?
Originally posted by wildmanal
Here you guys go.
http://www.crick.org/bam/max/coilwriteup.htm
Thank shaydz for the right up. I've been trying to install my maxspeeds since Sunday but it keeps raining. I actually about to head out and install the front ones right now cause I think the rain has let up for the day. I'll post some pics of the front since this write up is just for the back.
Thanks
wildmanal
Here you guys go.
http://www.crick.org/bam/max/coilwriteup.htm
Thank shaydz for the right up. I've been trying to install my maxspeeds since Sunday but it keeps raining. I actually about to head out and install the front ones right now cause I think the rain has let up for the day. I'll post some pics of the front since this write up is just for the back.
Thanks
wildmanal
Originally posted by hombre
Is a spring compressor necessary for an install? If not, what else can I use? If so, about how much should I spend?
Is a spring compressor necessary for an install? If not, what else can I use? If so, about how much should I spend?
Originally posted by Shaydz
Ok I updated that page. You can click through to another page from the link above or go here . This new page has the service manual pages for the front and 10 or so pics of the front install. No front writeup though. Hey, the pics are self-explanatory!
Ok I updated that page. You can click through to another page from the link above or go here . This new page has the service manual pages for the front and 10 or so pics of the front install. No front writeup though. Hey, the pics are self-explanatory!
Originally posted by clipse
Thanks for the write-up. But what did you mean by "...make marks on the top hat where the coil ends and the relation to the angle that the bottom end sits in the cradle. You'll need to make sure everything lines up correctly when re-installing. Make a mark also on the center bolt threads itself so you can determine how far the nut is screwed on..."
Thanks for the write-up. But what did you mean by "...make marks on the top hat where the coil ends and the relation to the angle that the bottom end sits in the cradle. You'll need to make sure everything lines up correctly when re-installing. Make a mark also on the center bolt threads itself so you can determine how far the nut is screwed on..."
Originally posted by Shaydz
I marked the ending point of the old coil on the tophat of the assembly and tried to make sure it was the same on the new coil. It's more important that the bottom of the coil sits in the bottom grooved holder correctly (with the plastic coil cover). When you reset the newly put together assembly back you need to make sure your marks line up so the bolts fit through the holes at the top correctly while at the same time the shock is rotated correctly so that the bottom fits in its horseshoe cradle. Basically look at the assembly when you remove it to note the relationship of the upper bolts to the bottom piece that fits in the cradle. I marked mine to make it easier. Hope this helps. It's hard to explain but it just makes for less adjustment when you put it back.
I marked the ending point of the old coil on the tophat of the assembly and tried to make sure it was the same on the new coil. It's more important that the bottom of the coil sits in the bottom grooved holder correctly (with the plastic coil cover). When you reset the newly put together assembly back you need to make sure your marks line up so the bolts fit through the holes at the top correctly while at the same time the shock is rotated correctly so that the bottom fits in its horseshoe cradle. Basically look at the assembly when you remove it to note the relationship of the upper bolts to the bottom piece that fits in the cradle. I marked mine to make it easier. Hope this helps. It's hard to explain but it just makes for less adjustment when you put it back.
Originally posted by HitManSE
Well no the spring compressor is not 100% necessary but is safer with it in my opinion.
Well no the spring compressor is not 100% necessary but is safer with it in my opinion.
Now, when re-installing the aftermarket springs, you may not need to compress them. You'll notice how much shorter they are. If you have a friend helping (I hope you do), have him put his weight on the tophat assembly as you thread the strut-top bolt back on.
And... it's gonna take you about four hours or so, unless you have a lift and air tools. Even then, I don't see how it could take much less time to do it. The most time-consuming part of it, for me, was disassembling the back seat, to have easier access to the rear strut tops. You can do it through the trunk, but, in my opinion, it's SO much easier to do from the back seat. Once it's all apart, the strut bolts are very easy to get to. There are, like, six or eight bolts that hold the back part of the seat on. And then, behind the seatback, there is a sheet metal panel that is held on by eight or ten more bolts. Once you remove the panel... VOILA... the strut bolts are right in front of you.
Take your time with it, as you can learn a lot about the car as you take it apart. All of the lingo and strange-sounding car parts that you see and hear about on the .org begin to look familiar. Have fun with it. After all, it's your car.
Originally posted by SG01MaxSE
He11 yeah, you need a spring compressor!!! If you're removing the stock springs without compressors, you're probably going to get hurt. The rears aren't so bad, but the tophat bolt on the front struts is holding down about three coils. If you break those three coils loose with out having them compressed, it's gonna be like a Randy Johnson fastball flying off of there. If it hits you in the face, you're through! Trust me, even WITH compressors on, my tophat assembly flew about 50 feet away when the bolt came loose.
Now, when re-installing the aftermarket springs, you may not need to compress them. You'll notice how much shorter they are. If you have a friend helping (I hope you do), have him put his weight on the tophat assembly as you thread the strut-top bolt back on.
And... it's gonna take you about four hours or so, unless you have a lift and air tools. Even then, I don't see how it could take much less time to do it. The most time-consuming part of it, for me, was disassembling the back seat, to have easier access to the rear strut tops. You can do it through the trunk, but, in my opinion, it's SO much easier to do from the back seat. Once it's all apart, the strut bolts are very easy to get to. There are, like, six or eight bolts that hold the back part of the seat on. And then, behind the seatback, there is a sheet metal panel that is held on by eight or ten more bolts. Once you remove the panel... VOILA... the strut bolts are right in front of you.
Take your time with it, as you can learn a lot about the car as you take it apart. All of the lingo and strange-sounding car parts that you see and hear about on the .org begin to look familiar. Have fun with it. After all, it's your car.
He11 yeah, you need a spring compressor!!! If you're removing the stock springs without compressors, you're probably going to get hurt. The rears aren't so bad, but the tophat bolt on the front struts is holding down about three coils. If you break those three coils loose with out having them compressed, it's gonna be like a Randy Johnson fastball flying off of there. If it hits you in the face, you're through! Trust me, even WITH compressors on, my tophat assembly flew about 50 feet away when the bolt came loose.
Now, when re-installing the aftermarket springs, you may not need to compress them. You'll notice how much shorter they are. If you have a friend helping (I hope you do), have him put his weight on the tophat assembly as you thread the strut-top bolt back on.
And... it's gonna take you about four hours or so, unless you have a lift and air tools. Even then, I don't see how it could take much less time to do it. The most time-consuming part of it, for me, was disassembling the back seat, to have easier access to the rear strut tops. You can do it through the trunk, but, in my opinion, it's SO much easier to do from the back seat. Once it's all apart, the strut bolts are very easy to get to. There are, like, six or eight bolts that hold the back part of the seat on. And then, behind the seatback, there is a sheet metal panel that is held on by eight or ten more bolts. Once you remove the panel... VOILA... the strut bolts are right in front of you.
Take your time with it, as you can learn a lot about the car as you take it apart. All of the lingo and strange-sounding car parts that you see and hear about on the .org begin to look familiar. Have fun with it. After all, it's your car.
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