jmartinson

Got my Tein's in the other day. I tried doing the install in a 4 hour window (big mistake) and ran into a few problems.

The most notable was the fact that when I reached step number 7 on the front section (here-> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....5&pagenumber=4 )

...the strut assembly didn't want to be removed b/c there appeared to be a good deal of expansion force from the assembly pushing the bottom of the strut onto the hub.

Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Jacob

Y2K2Driver

iTrader: (1)

You're not missing anything, mine did the same thing the first time I did a spring install. The second time I wised up and actually put the spring compressor on while the strut assembly was still in the car, though not coreectly b/c of the limited space. In any case, it allowed for an easier removal since I didn't have to worry about the strut expanding and hitting the axle boot. I also used a spring compressor with the hooks on it as opposed to the one with the u-bolts since it has a narrower profiler. I also noticed that this type of spring compressor had a lot less binding force associated with it, making it very easy to compress the spring. However, even without that type of spring compressor you can get everything out even it does expand by leveraging a piece of wood against the rotor to push down the control arm, easing the removal, or installation, of the strut assembly.

jmartinson

Where did you get that second type of compressor? I got the U-type from Autozone as a rental.

Thanks!

-Jacob

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

You need to have both front wheels off the ground. The sway bar is what was pushing the hub you were working on upwards. If one wheel is up and one is on the ground, you fight the sway bar.

Same applies for the rear. Both rear wheels off the ground.

Never put a spring compressor on while the sturt assembly is on the car. It's dangerous and there's no need for it. The strut assembly is held together by the top nut. The spring remains loaded while you pull the strut out of the car. You can crack the top nut lose while it's still in the car, makes it much easier while the upper mount is still bolted onto the car. But only crack it lose, do not remove that nut!! After the assembly is out of the car, compress the spring and then remove the nut. The strut assembly will come apart easily.

You do not need to compress the stock rear SE springs. They are not under much preload at all. You get a small pop, nothing drastic at all, nothing goes flying. Takes a lot of time off the job.

You usually don't need the spring compressor to install sport springs. Have a buddy apply some pressure, that should be enough to compress the shorter springs so you can catch the top nut again. That applies to both the front and the rear.

I just did a Eibach/GR2 install on a 2k Max with 18's. Damn car looked hot when I was finished. Perfect drop, and I mean perfect. The Eibach/GR2 combo rides really nice.

Madd Kidd

I have GR-2s and Teins on the way and want to do this mod by myself vs. paying the auto shop $220. Although I am mechanically inclined I have never done this mod before. Do you think I should go for it with the help of a buddy or fork up the $220? I just thought I would ask cuz it seems like you know what you are doing. And yes I read the instructions in the 'How To' section. But is it that simple in terms of taking the struts off and puting them back on?

jmartinson

Man, I wish the howto guide had your instructions in them!!!! That sure would have saved me some time!

Thanks!

-Jacob

Y2K2Driver

iTrader: (1)

How is putting a spring compressor on while it on the car dangerous? I only used the compressor to keep the spring from expanding too much once the lower bolts were removed. Never was the spring actually loose in its perch nor was the top nut ever loosened. Whatever, it worked for me and made removal a cinch.