safc controller for my max?
Well the only reason you would need this is if you wanted to bring the a/f closer to NA levels on your car if it really out of wack. Only way to tell that is to have it dyno and then tuned. But the safc for NA is really not going to bring anymore than 1-3whp max. Almost not worth it.
I have it installed in my car, but that is because Im boosted and need to fine tune to get the most of out my fuel mix.
Dixit
I have it installed in my car, but that is because Im boosted and need to fine tune to get the most of out my fuel mix.
Dixit
i dont know if that totally true because thats wat the acura forum said aboutthe tl and the vtec controller...my freind installed it on his tl and dyno tunned it and is now at 220 hp at the wheels on a 99 tl...im going to buy the safc contorller...i also asked the guy that my freind had the car dyno tuned and he said you can get at least 20 hp to the wheels...dont know if its totally true but thats wat teh guy told me...
Originally posted by greekmax2k1
i dont know if that totally true because thats wat the acura forum said aboutthe tl and the vtec controller...my freind installed it on his tl and dyno tunned it and is now at 220 hp at the wheels on a 99 tl...im going to buy the safc contorller...i also asked the guy that my freind had the car dyno tuned and he said you can get at least 20 hp to the wheels...dont know if its totally true but thats wat teh guy told me...
i dont know if that totally true because thats wat the acura forum said aboutthe tl and the vtec controller...my freind installed it on his tl and dyno tunned it and is now at 220 hp at the wheels on a 99 tl...im going to buy the safc contorller...i also asked the guy that my freind had the car dyno tuned and he said you can get at least 20 hp to the wheels...dont know if its totally true but thats wat teh guy told me...
Dixit
if u think im bull****ing ill upload his dyno...i dont know maybe its diff for hondas, but this asian guy that does the tuning told me he can def get me more the 3WHP....i guess ill save that 400 cause u are right its 100 to dyno tune and put it somewhere alse..
If your a/f is like 16:1 across the board then yes you need an SAFC, but if it is 13-14:1 then you are fine for an NA application. Like I said before, if you are not within that range then there is other problems with the car. Masking it with an SAFC is not going to be the best idea.
Dixit
Dixit
Definitely only get the S-afc if you boosted or Juiced.. You'll see a lot more gains from that. With N/A you will get like 1whp so I don't think the cost will justify it. Just get all the other boltons for now.
Originally posted by greekmax2k1
if u think im bull****ing ill upload his dyno...i dont know maybe its diff for hondas, but this asian guy that does the tuning told me he can def get me more the 3WHP....i guess ill save that 400 cause u are right its 100 to dyno tune and put it somewhere alse..
if u think im bull****ing ill upload his dyno...i dont know maybe its diff for hondas, but this asian guy that does the tuning told me he can def get me more the 3WHP....i guess ill save that 400 cause u are right its 100 to dyno tune and put it somewhere alse..
Typically you won't see 10+ HP unless there is something wrong with your current air/fuel ratios. I'm not boosted, but I was running in the 11:1 range under WOT after a full catback, Y pipe, and CAI. Because 11:1 is way too rich for the engine, I needed an engine management unit (like the SAFC/SAFC-II/Greddy E-Manage). But under most circumstances, a NA Maxima will not need them.
As for your "friend", it's cool that he got his 10 HP or so, but that was application specific. The unit itself doesn't provide any horsepower whatsoever (like a CAI or WAI would), it just adjusts the air/fuel ratios so that your engine runs at optimum mixture. When the engine is running at optimum mixture, it puts out more horsepower and torque because of a cleaner burning of fuel. Too much/too little fuel and you'll notice a loss in either horsepower or torque, if not both.
For the SC/Turbo guys, this is almost a necessity because of the way the Forced Induction changes the engine's air input. The increased air causes the car's computer to provide more gas, but the computer doesn't handle the air/fuel mixture correctly (because it wasn't designed to run that type of setup). So in that case, a piggy-back system like the SAFC/E-Manage is needed to adjust the mixtures.
All that being said, you should never install a SAFC/E-Manage until you have ALREADY dyno'd and been told your air/fuel mixture needs adjustment. Only then should you install the unit. Directly after installing the unit, you'll need to revisit the dyno shop and tune it while on the dyno.
Hope this helps.
As for your "friend", it's cool that he got his 10 HP or so, but that was application specific. The unit itself doesn't provide any horsepower whatsoever (like a CAI or WAI would), it just adjusts the air/fuel ratios so that your engine runs at optimum mixture. When the engine is running at optimum mixture, it puts out more horsepower and torque because of a cleaner burning of fuel. Too much/too little fuel and you'll notice a loss in either horsepower or torque, if not both.
For the SC/Turbo guys, this is almost a necessity because of the way the Forced Induction changes the engine's air input. The increased air causes the car's computer to provide more gas, but the computer doesn't handle the air/fuel mixture correctly (because it wasn't designed to run that type of setup). So in that case, a piggy-back system like the SAFC/E-Manage is needed to adjust the mixtures.
All that being said, you should never install a SAFC/E-Manage until you have ALREADY dyno'd and been told your air/fuel mixture needs adjustment. Only then should you install the unit. Directly after installing the unit, you'll need to revisit the dyno shop and tune it while on the dyno.
Hope this helps.
Originally posted by studman
Typically you won't see 10+ HP unless there is something wrong with your current air/fuel ratios. I'm not boosted, but I was running in the 11:1 range under WOT after a full catback, Y pipe, and CAI. Because 11:1 is way too rich for the engine, I needed an engine management unit (like the SAFC/SAFC-II/Greddy E-Manage). But under most circumstances, a NA Maxima will not need them.
As for your "friend", it's cool that he got his 10 HP or so, but that was application specific. The unit itself doesn't provide any horsepower whatsoever (like a CAI or WAI would), it just adjusts the air/fuel ratios so that your engine runs at optimum mixture. When the engine is running at optimum mixture, it puts out more horsepower and torque because of a cleaner burning of fuel. Too much/too little fuel and you'll notice a loss in either horsepower or torque, if not both.
For the SC/Turbo guys, this is almost a necessity because of the way the Forced Induction changes the engine's air input. The increased air causes the car's computer to provide more gas, but the computer doesn't handle the air/fuel mixture correctly (because it wasn't designed to run that type of setup). So in that case, a piggy-back system like the SAFC/E-Manage is needed to adjust the mixtures.
All that being said, you should never install a SAFC/E-Manage until you have ALREADY dyno'd and been told your air/fuel mixture needs adjustment. Only then should you install the unit. Directly after installing the unit, you'll need to revisit the dyno shop and tune it while on the dyno.
Hope this helps.
Typically you won't see 10+ HP unless there is something wrong with your current air/fuel ratios. I'm not boosted, but I was running in the 11:1 range under WOT after a full catback, Y pipe, and CAI. Because 11:1 is way too rich for the engine, I needed an engine management unit (like the SAFC/SAFC-II/Greddy E-Manage). But under most circumstances, a NA Maxima will not need them.
As for your "friend", it's cool that he got his 10 HP or so, but that was application specific. The unit itself doesn't provide any horsepower whatsoever (like a CAI or WAI would), it just adjusts the air/fuel ratios so that your engine runs at optimum mixture. When the engine is running at optimum mixture, it puts out more horsepower and torque because of a cleaner burning of fuel. Too much/too little fuel and you'll notice a loss in either horsepower or torque, if not both.
For the SC/Turbo guys, this is almost a necessity because of the way the Forced Induction changes the engine's air input. The increased air causes the car's computer to provide more gas, but the computer doesn't handle the air/fuel mixture correctly (because it wasn't designed to run that type of setup). So in that case, a piggy-back system like the SAFC/E-Manage is needed to adjust the mixtures.
All that being said, you should never install a SAFC/E-Manage until you have ALREADY dyno'd and been told your air/fuel mixture needs adjustment. Only then should you install the unit. Directly after installing the unit, you'll need to revisit the dyno shop and tune it while on the dyno.
Hope this helps.
Originally posted by 03BlkSETE
What I see is that you needed an engine management system with just bolt ons. Do you think this is typical of the 02-03's or more specific to your vehicle. Also I have noticed a significant decrease in my gas mileage since I installed my intake. Do you think this is a sign that my air/fuel ratio is incorrect?
What I see is that you needed an engine management system with just bolt ons. Do you think this is typical of the 02-03's or more specific to your vehicle. Also I have noticed a significant decrease in my gas mileage since I installed my intake. Do you think this is a sign that my air/fuel ratio is incorrect?
Originally posted by maximaman777
I think it's a sign that you've had your foot in it more.
I think it's a sign that you've had your foot in it more.
Originally posted by 03BlkSETE
I would agree, except for 2 things, the intake was my last mod so my foot was pretty heavy already, especially after the exhaust, and my wife drives the car 90% of the time.
I would agree, except for 2 things, the intake was my last mod so my foot was pretty heavy already, especially after the exhaust, and my wife drives the car 90% of the time.
Originally posted by maximaman777
Are you sure she doesn't like the new sound the car makes?
Are you sure she doesn't like the new sound the car makes?
Before you fork out the money to get a SAFC/E-Manage, I'd visit your local dyno shop. Get a wideband reading (air/fuel mixture) and compare it to the numbers posted here. If you are not around the upper 13 to lower 14 range, then I'd suggest looking into one of the units. But if you are in the range, then there may be a problem elsewhere.
Originally posted by 03BlkSETE
I showed her your response and she laughed and swore that wasn't the case. She claims she never even put the pedal down all the way even once. Seems a little suspect to me, I'll keep an eye on her.
I showed her your response and she laughed and swore that wasn't the case. She claims she never even put the pedal down all the way even once. Seems a little suspect to me, I'll keep an eye on her.
I agree with Studman get it dyno'd 1st and take it from there.
I agree with both of you and I will dyno with a wide band oxygen sensor. Just wondering if the drop in fuel economy after mods can be a sign that my air/fuel ratio needs to be adjusted.
Originally posted by greekmax2k1
if u think im bull****ing ill upload his dyno...i dont know maybe its diff for hondas, but this asian guy that does the tuning told me he can def get me more the 3WHP....i guess ill save that 400 cause u are right its 100 to dyno tune and put it somewhere alse..
if u think im bull****ing ill upload his dyno...i dont know maybe its diff for hondas, but this asian guy that does the tuning told me he can def get me more the 3WHP....i guess ill save that 400 cause u are right its 100 to dyno tune and put it somewhere alse..
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