K Pazzo 6

iTrader: (6)

btw: i have a '01 Maxima if there is a difference?

2K2_6spd

iTrader: (1)

Should be 130-140amp.

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

you'd THINK that wouldn't you, but sadly, it is NOT...something i feel nissan def. cheaped out on. these are the specs:

Hitachi LR1110-720
Nominal Rating - 12V-110A <--that's so g@y
Ground Polarity - Negative
Min. Revolution under no-load - <1,100rpm
Hot Output Current (when 13.5Volts Applied)
more than:
24A @1,300rpm
67A @1,800rpm
87A @2,500rpm
105A @5,000rpm

regulated output voltage - 14.1 - 14.7V
Rotor (Field Coil) Resistance - 2.16 - 2.46 ohms

110 is very low IMO
but then again, that's cause i got a system and dimming comes very quickly for me. i'm gonna have it redone so i can have a 350A alty. should idle at around 180A

*NOTE* - this is off my 2k2 FSM, so sorry if this is different between VQ30's and VQ35's

2K2_6spd

iTrader: (1)

110 is not that bad, hell I had some older Mustangs that had 40amps alternator on them Try running a system off of that

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

previous gen accords are 130. my 89 crx was 118. A CRX!!!!!
comparing to honda, they cheaped out. but again, for general use, it's fine. for us bass heads, it's doo doo.
i have this one song (DJ Marky - The brazilian job, song #20) the first bass note it hits, cap (5 farad) shuts off, and amp goes into protect mode (when below 10volts) and i peak at around 14.9-15.1 volts. then again, this is ONLY when i'm at idle. when i'm driving, i don't go into protect mode, but the dash does begin to dim. quite annoying if you ask me.

jjs

From the sound/entertainment system I have no problem with Nissan using the Alt they did. These cars were not 'prewired' for monster systems nor was that ever the intent.

Now, if we are talking about the good old days when an Alt could actually help recharge a battery vs. today where this no longer the case in most (if not all) cars...that is where I have an issue.

VMosser323

iTrader: (1)

What would be a good alternator upgrade for a 2K2?? I plan on doing some upgrades to the sound system (nothing too dramatic) but I would like to have a stronger alty. to avoid dash-dimming and burning out the stock one too fast...nothing more annoying than having your alty. go out on you.

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

there really aren't aftermarket upgrades. 2 things are generally done. you can have your stock alternator recoiled. this increases the amperage. general cost is $1 per amp. problem with this is you are limited based on alternator size and also, the major flaw is that there are diodes inside our alternator. the quanity/power of the diodes are made to handle our stock amperage. so correctly upgrade the alternator, you have to sned yours to a shop taht will rebuild it, like adding another casing so that it's large but still mounts on stock locations, you need to be sure they more/strong diodes and obviously recoil it. this would increase your amperage. an upgraded battery ALWAYS helps out. i have a dual post yellow top optima and it works fine. i don't always pump the music, but when i do, it manages. there is a place in florida that does this recoiling/diode job and their prices are fair. problem is the person that told me about is MIA. i need to find him. i know he's a 3rd genner by the name of eric93se. tried to contact him but nothing. he's the one that told me about this place in florida.

gtbigup

If ur not plannin to have an outrageous sys. the alt you have is fine .I have a RF 750x(power) amp in my car pushing one 15' wooffer and four kicker k-60. I only have a 1farad cap, and no dimmin here .Ialso compete with that.