5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Changing brake pads?

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Old Jun 6, 2003 | 05:34 AM
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GXEme's Avatar
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Changing brake pads?

Each brake pad on my 2000 Maxima has an aluminum shield and a slotted steel shield. The steel shields on my car are starting to decompose. Do I need to reuse these shields when I change over to non oem pads or can I just toss them? Is there a place that you can buy these shields from?

Thanks

P.S.
I would have done a search on this
topic but I need to be a paying member
in order to do that I guess...
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 05:45 AM
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Re: Changing brake pads?

Originally posted by GXEme
Each brake pad on my 2000 Maxima has an aluminum shield and a slotted steel shield. The steel shields on my car are starting to decompose. Do I need to reuse these shields when I change over to non oem pads or can I just toss them? Is there a place that you can buy these shields from?

Thanks

P.S.
I would have done a search on this
topic but I need to be a paying member
in order to do that I guess...
You should be okay to re-use those 'shimmys'. They are there to minimize the squeeling noise when you apply the brake. Not the 'skreching' noise when the brake pads are low. Be sure to apply anti-squeeling-noise compound also known as anti-noise brake pad gel type or spray type. Sometime when I am in rush, I apply anti-sieze compound, no one has approve or disapprove on this but oh well...

If your shimmy are rusted, my suggestion is to get a new one from the dealer. Some brake pads comes with them but some dont. And you dont have to replace them every brake pad change job.

Good luck!

Peter
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 10:57 AM
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Thanks for the reply stockacura, that's what I needed to know.
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 11:26 AM
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I read somwhere that when changing pads with ABS that you should open the bleeder screw when compressing the piston back in. This is so that you don't mess up the ABS system. Is this really necessary?

Pre ABS, you just displace the fluid by forcing it back to the reservoir. Also, does this car require a spanner tool or can a "C' clamp work.
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 12:23 PM
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c-clamp will work on the front pistons. and no, i haven't opened the bleeder screw when compressing the piston back in
Old Oct 6, 2003 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by wally9mm
I read somwhere that when changing pads with ABS that you should open the bleeder screw when compressing the piston back in. This is so that you don't mess up the ABS system. Is this really necessary?

Pre ABS, you just displace the fluid by forcing it back to the reservoir. Also, does this car require a spanner tool or can a "C' clamp work.
Haynes Repair Manual says to just open the braking fluid reservoir's cap and "remove" about 2/3 of the fluid in the reservoir. Yes, you will need something to press on the caliper, I doubt you could do it by hands, C-clamp would help. Otherwise, the caliper won't get off the disk.
Old Oct 7, 2003 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MaScott
Haynes Repair Manual says to just open the braking fluid reservoir's cap and "remove" about 2/3 of the fluid in the reservoir. Yes, you will need something to press on the caliper, I doubt you could do it by hands, C-clamp would help. Otherwise, the caliper won't get off the disk.

On the rear calipers you cannot retract them before pulling the calipers off the rotor. They must be forced out, usually by prying them with a screwdriver. The reason is the only way to push the piston back in is to rotate the piston using a special tool for this purpose ( 10$ ) or using needle nose pliers.
Old Oct 7, 2003 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by twiggy144
On the rear calipers you cannot retract them before pulling the calipers off the rotor. They must be forced out, usually by prying them with a screwdriver. The reason is the only way to push the piston back in is to rotate the piston using a special tool for this purpose ( 10$ ) or using needle nose pliers.
Visegrip worked really well too. Just watch out for the rubber boots. Btw needle nose pliers DOES NOT work as FSM as suggested.

Peter
Old Oct 7, 2003 | 09:26 AM
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use a disc spreader tool, you can get one at any reputable car parts store.... $5 or so
Old Oct 7, 2003 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by stockacura
Visegrip worked really well too. Just watch out for the rubber boots. Btw needle nose pliers DOES NOT work as FSM as suggested.

Peter
on all the 95 to 2001 maximas where i've changed the rear pads, needle nose pliers DID work...not sure about the 2002/03 though
Old Oct 7, 2003 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by MajesticBlueNTO
on all the 95 to 2001 maximas where i've changed the rear pads, needle nose pliers DID work...not sure about the 2002/03 though
Hey Neil! The 4 pivot points where in theory the nose of the plier should land, on '03 are slanded. More pressure you give to try to turn the piston, plier would just slide off of pivot points. Damn Nissan being cheap and re-using old FSM materials...
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