5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

3rd Brake light removal?

Old Jun 10, 2003 | 04:21 PM
  #1  
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3rd Brake light removal?

Sorry, Just have one more qeustion for today. When I bought my Max(used), it had a oem wing installed after it left a factory b/c the third brake light in the rear window was still operating. I ordered the cap that goes over the hole left by removing the light housing and it looks great. So my delema is that I can't remove the bulb without a red warning indicator light on the dash flashing when I hit the breaks.(saying that break light is out.) Is there a kit that I can install or a rewire, so that I will be able to remove the bulb? Right now I have the bulb still attached to the socket under the cap and at night I can see it shining threw. It is not that bad but I dont like it like that. Any suggestions? Does my post even make sense? Let me know. Thanks
Old Jun 10, 2003 | 04:35 PM
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Re: 3rd Brake light removal?

Run that wire to the third brake light in the spoiler, and "trick" the car into thinking the bulb is still there and operational.
Old Jun 10, 2003 | 04:38 PM
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Thanks. Is it easy to do? Do I just cut the wires and tap them into the spoiler light? If so shouldn't be to hard. I could handle that.
Old Jun 10, 2003 | 04:45 PM
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Originally posted by cwebb
Thanks. Is it easy to do? Do I just cut the wires and tap them into the spoiler light? If so shouldn't be to hard. I could handle that.
Either do that, or just put the bulb back in and then tuck the wires under the plug. The bulb will be there and working, but you wont be able to see it. They shoulda redone that when the spoiler was installed.
Old Jun 11, 2003 | 06:11 AM
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I'm not sure about the 2002, but my 2003 GLE was prewired for the spoiler LED light, so there is no need to cut-n-splice into the window brake light wires. I too have the same problem with the dash warning light. I'm guessing the my non-nissan LED produces a lower resistence than the Nissan version so the circuit thinks a bulb is burned out even when the LED is in the circuit and the window light is removed. An EE buddy of mine suggested using a meter to determine the resistence across the 21w window light bulb and replacing the bulb with a resister that would trick the circuit into thinking the bulb was still there. To be more accurate, you could probably check the resistence in the LED, then add only enough resistence to the circuit to equal the 21w bulb. If anyone ever has time to try this, please post your results. I just put aluminum foil behind the red lens to block the light until I have time to fiddle with it.
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